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Thread: Instead of knocking up girls, secretly paying a shop to build...... The Zackmobile

  1. #76
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    I meant on the rms kit before you went to their new modular kit?

    Custom Stage 3-ish RMS supercharged E36 M3/4/5
    Frankenstein e30 318i commuter

  2. #77
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    I don't really like superchargers and I am not a fan of widebodies or CF stuff, but that said I appreciate the work done here!

  3. #78
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    this is super bad ass, much respect man


    German Beast


  4. #79
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    tristo; I think you mistake what pulley I had. I only had the OEM pulley before that doesnt support a supercharger and then I bought the RMS hardware that includes a modular charger drive pulley and the oem-ish belt pulleys with bolt holes for the charger pulley.

  5. #80
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    Thanks!

    Custom Stage 3-ish RMS supercharged E36 M3/4/5
    Frankenstein e30 318i commuter

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    I don't really like superchargers and I am not a fan of widebodies or CF stuff, but that said I appreciate the work done here!
    I like superchargers, widebodies(not wide fenders) and CF stuff (if real), and the work done here. 4 thumbs up.
    Vortech V2Ti Rebello Racing M62 4.9L E34. Not a race car, but a fun car.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  7. #82
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    I FINALLY have my suspension complete with the arrival of the barely used Tein coilover kit, the EDFC kit was already bought. Took about 1.5 years this... so about time.
    Will still need to decide on bushings etc but that is small stuff. Will probably go solid everywhere besides engine and tranny mounts. Maybe Vibratech for those...? Any experience on added NVH with both of their compounds? I like a stiff and rattly ride but I do not like engine and transmission noise and vibrations in the car. Still undecided about diff mounts. Diff frame mounts will be solids (aluminium). Not going to mess around with poly there, seeing that BMW even fits aluminium ones in some cars off the shelf.





    Yaay...!






    SOOOOOOO.....






    Today the brakes arrived. Holy**** they are huuuuge.


    Immediately went on to see if they would clear the front 18" wheel barrels ... probably wouldn't I thought, so I was already looking for 19" barrels and lips for the front as well. expensive.










    And they *****ING DO!!!!


    Lucky for once... With barely 4mm of gap on the fronts lol.




    Without spacers the calipers hit the wheel centers so on the front I will just go with decent thickness spacers instead of buying wider front wheel lips, this way I can put a cover around the struts as well, prolonging their life substantially.


    Time for pics:


























    The rears are WAY bigger than many serious sports cars front setups LOL! Absolutely crazy.
    The tiny things are the E-brake/handbrake/manual brake calipers if you were wondering.

















    The cast metal, painted, bars that are attached to the front half of the rear calipers are just weights, to alter the resonance frequency of the calipers to prevent squealing. I will eventually see if they are necessary as they aren't the prettiest part on the car.

  8. #83
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    Nice brakes.

    It's weird it looks like the OEMs will spend uber dollars on carbon discs but then stick cast calipers on?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Are these R8 Gt or RS6/7?

  9. #84
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    Fronts are mono block forged items actually. Rears are 'normal' two piece items

    R8 gt

  10. #85
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    Only low quality builds use spacers.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It looks like your pads will go over unworn area on the disk? is any reason oem left such a gap?
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    Only low quality builds use spacers.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It looks like your pads will go over unworn area on the disk? is any reason oem left such a gap?
    Where do you mean?

  12. #87
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    smalllcock.jpg

    If they were regular rotors youd have to turn them, but are your pads going to end in a different spot than oem designed.
    Also i was talking to some guys at the last F1 race and they were saying lots of these new CC brakes were exploding due to like little rocks or something. i dont know how really... dont speeek german enough.
    Last edited by vollosso; 07-22-2014 at 09:59 AM.
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  13. #88
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    Lol i immediately went looking but i must conclude that the set is so new that the pads didnt wear down there yet. So the surface is shinier.

    They are a bit tapered off there towards the center when new

  14. #89
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    Cost to turn CC rotors: 2400€

    I accept paypal and kidneys.
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  15. #90
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    Been busy on the suspension.

    As far as I am aware, Tein did a product update (or downgrade) over the years they produced this suspension kit.
    Unfortunately, I have the 'weaker' type. On the following picture, from internet, it is clearly visible that the anti rollbar mount is much beefier;



    than mine, which, as little use as it had, already tore up a bad weld, and cracked the only side reinforcement weld:



    It is not exactly overdimensioned as well;



    So I already knew one thing; I will have to weld on the tubes. I will make 2 plates that, when welded to the assembly, will basically make it into the better version from the first picture.

    Now; when you want to weld on such a component, you need to bleed the low pressure nitrogen load, the oil and take out the entire piston+rod assembly. Fill up the tube with inert gas and only then it is safe to weld it without damaging something. Not much of a task but I will need to do it.

    Therefore I am searching for a tool which I believe is called an 'Adjustable pin wrench' ( https://www.google.nl/search?q=adjus...=isch&imgdii=_ ) Does someone know a decent one that is cheap??
    Because I need to open these up:



    Thing is, when done with the modification, you need to recharge them with nitrogen. Twin tube dampers already have the disadvantage over monotubes that they (besides smaller piston surface) are in contact with the air or low pressure gas charge, which can cause 'froth', and that they are not as easy to charge to high pressures as monotubes because they lack filling valves (schrader type). See image:



    I do not wish to spend 75 USD per strut plus extreme postage costs to Tein to get them refilled, which happens in a pressure chamber (the charge will leak into the strut via the oil seal which only seals from one side obviously) so I will need to add such a port which means welding as well. Well that is convenient, I was already welding to the struts anyways.
    That got me thinking: what can I do to improve these things further? I'm not going to install better pistons (found a guy on youtube that did that to his MR2) because that is a lot of work and I don't think I will benefit from the difference. But I cán however make sure that the tubes will behave better over time of abuse by separating gas from oil. This both increases oil volume (which is good because of thermal volume) and it makes frothing impossible.

    So instead of just a schrader valve, I will make a port on the strut to which I can connect an external reservoir with hydraulic hose, that (the reservoir) contains a piston or bladder separation from the gas charge.
    See reservoirs on middle and right monotube examples:



    Filling ports are on the far end of the reservoirs. Just need to find 4 cheap ones now... already asked a Dutch suspension manuf. for a quotation.

    Another thing that I need is a threaded stud with a 'mushroom' type end... maybe somebody knows where to find these and how they are precisely called? Because I doubt Tein will ship me one.



    Furthermore; I will also install a system to lift the nose of the car by air pressure.
    First some measuring to see if they will cause interference issues on the Tein's, because the superstreet's actually have a relatively short damper stroke. Had to press off the spring top hat from the spacer that prevents the nut from loosening up on top (it has a keyway in it).
    Bit of fiddling with the benchvice and some pieces of aluminium and presto;





    Then measuring the total assy:



    Showing me with extended cylinder how much space is left for the spring:



    Spring length unloaded:



    Confirming my measurments a bit without the locking nut under the spring seat nut:





    According to the measurments it SHOULD fit, barely, with the cylinder in closed position and the spring wound all the way down. Extension is 50mm.

    On the Tein website (old) there is this info about this set;



    So if I am not mistaken, the static sag on these springs, in milimeters, should be the weight of the car divided by 4, and that corner weight devided by 10.
    An approximate; 1500kg/40 = 37.5mm

    This means that with the kit installed without adding preload, on the lowest 'ride hight', I will have 37.5mm of sag with the cups deflated.
    Because the cups can inflate 50mm, I can overcome the sag, raising the car 37.5mm and have another 12.5mm of preload which translates to 125kg x 2 = 250kg of preload in the front suspension on maximum extension.

    Basically this means I will be able to take speed bumps at a normal pace without worrying that I will destroy my CF front lip, even at lowest setting. I don't think that with this spring rate I will need preload, I think it will just destroy comfort and grip in wet conditions. A bit of static sag is good on a street car.

    On with the story;
    It was then time to install everything. And as usual, things never seem to go the way I want them to:





    ERROR. Spring diameter too large. The cups accept up to 90mm springs and apparently Tein springs are about 91.5.

    Almost broke a pair of needle nose pliers on these huge as 110mm circlips





    But Dad to the rescue, he had these, which are rated up to 100mm...



    Win! So got them lathed out to 92mm;



    And installed everything for show. (to prove myself I'm not an idiot, as I was doubting my subtractions whilst measuring the entire time)



    So apparently I had a few mm's left for the locking nut below the spring seater nut! Nice!





    I will also add a 5mm O-ring with 40mm ID around the keyway-ed spacer above the aircup to prevent water from leaking down.

    Progress!
    Last edited by daandaman; 07-22-2014 at 12:30 PM.

  16. #91
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    Are those going to clear your sidewalls? I mean, I'm sure you've already thought of that, but most C/O springs are pretty close to the tires already...

    - - - Updated - - -

    And I should add, they look quite impressive!

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Are those going to clear your sidewalls? I mean, I'm sure you've already thought of that, but most C/O springs are pretty close to the tires already...

    - - - Updated - - -

    And I should add, they look quite impressive!

    Good question, but yeah I've measured the wheels on the car with the Eibach/KW kit and with a 10mm spacer, and completely hanging suspension, I still had 30mm between wheel face and fender extension. The wheel was clearing the coil then. Coil is a few mm smaller in diameter than the Tein coil.

    I believe with the suspension on the height that it must have, there will be an additional 10mm or so, due to camber change.

    All together giving me between 30 and 40mm of extra clearance, whilst these cups stick out (from the Tein coils) 15mm on the bottom and 20mm on the top.




  18. #93
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    After the necessary calculations with quite some help of a friend from the UK who basically has a master degree in e36 braking, and some nice spreadsheets, I now know that the rear calipers have too much piston surface. Fronts are very good actually, only about 4% more surface.

    For informative purpose:
    Audi R8 ceramic caliper specs; fronts have 32, 36 and 38mm pistons (ceramic)
    Rears have 38 and 42.
    Front friction surface diameters: OD 379 ID 219
    Rear friction surface diameters: OD 353 ID 251

    Effective friction radii:
    front 153.07mm
    Rear: 153.27
    (which obviously is interesting as this goes against your gut feeling given the big difference in dimensions lol)


    I want to retain these calipers, and the rest of the OEM braking system (booster, ABS, master cyl)
    Master cyl gives same pressure output to the front and rear as it is a tandem cylinder, where the plunger only acts as a membrane.

    Brake bias would go way too much to the back if I would just slam everything on the car.


    Therefore 'minor adjustments' are needed (lol)
    On the rear I will need 28 and 30mm pistons to have about 5% more surface than OEM as well.
    That way, with the effective disc radius taken into account, brake bias will remain virtually stock, and pedal travel as well!


    Disassembled 1 rear caliper to see what I have to work with; it uses aluminium pistons that either have a shiny natural anodizing or a metallic coating.



    Seal grooves



    On went solidworks... made a quick model of the situation stock of the smaller piston, to see what my options are:



    An estimate of the new situation (do not have the piston and seal to actually measure so did some guestimating on the sizes that are unknown)



    And a mock up of the sleeve dimensions, if I were to use one. I think the smaller dust seal would be able to fit in the stock bore, which is nice, at least on the smaller pistons end. Don't know if the bigger pistons bore can house the new seal for that end. Will see.



    Thing is, I now need to find a way to keep that thing down in it's bore. Sealing won't be an issue, I could integrate an O ring in the sleeve (on the bottom end) or use the stock square shape O ring.
    Its surface area is about the same as that of the piston that goes in it, meaning it will want to push out at the same force as the piston. I have no idea how much pressure can occur in a braking system... could be handy to determine how much force the retaining solution must be able to resist.

    I was thinking about mechanical retaining (with a cleverly designed snap ring or something) and by gluing with a specialized polymer.

    I wish to not machine the caliper.
    For information; the wall thickness of the sleeve, at the height of the oil seal, is about 2mm.

    Anyone ideas?

  19. #94
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    Nice work Dan! And interesting.

    Is the braking force only proportional the caliper piston surface area and the friction radii? Don't you have to account for the pad contact area as well? The rears have way less swept area, so should'nt this play into it? Maybe you already accounted for this, or I am off base here. It just seems like such a patch to have to add some reducing sleeves into those nice rear calipers. There will be some huge forces on whatever you figure out to retain those sleeves. You will need to use the old seal groove or machine something new to hold these in. Big time forces!

    Can you add a proportioning valve instead? Similar to this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...1179/overview/

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Nice work Dan! And interesting.

    Is the braking force only proportional the caliper piston surface area and the friction radii? Don't you have to account for the pad contact area as well? The rears have way less swept area, so should'nt this play into it? Maybe you already accounted for this, or I am off base here. It just seems like such a patch to have to add some reducing sleeves into those nice rear calipers. There will be some huge forces on whatever you figure out to retain those sleeves. You will need to use the old seal groove or machine something new to hold these in. Big time forces!

    Can you add a proportioning valve instead? Similar to this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...1179/overview/

    At first I thought there must be more to it as well. But actually it is quite logic... more pad surface equals less pressure, less pad surface equals more pressure. The forces transmitted are the same.

    I think if cementing them in place is not an option, it is going to be difficult. The grooves are actually not rated to handle all the forces of a piston, just the area of the seal times the system pressure I just came to realise.

    The best I think I can do is to make sure that the base of the sleeve will not allow fluid to enter beneath. By using the right polymer. That way the sleeve will not act as an (telescopic) piston in the caliper.
    The safety measure this way would be that if the polymer would let go, when I retain original oil seal, there will not be loss of fluid or rear brakes. Bias will shift backwards, a lot, though.

    And about the bias valve.. they limit pressure so you first get way too much rear bias and then afterwards the fronts start to work. They are to stop rears from skidding on the fly with an agressive rear bias when conditions suddenly change or rears are worn.
    Last edited by daandaman; 07-23-2014 at 09:54 AM.

  21. #96
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    I learned something new. I always thought ones like this type enabled total proportional pressure control through the range of braking pressure.
    http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=260-11179

    I guess the piston and spring in these types don't really respond "proportionally" at the low end. You get the same pressure front to rear until a threshold is made and then the piston starts to proportion after that point. That would make the rears seem grabby at low brake inputs. Kinda lame.

    Seems odd that this is the case, as many many cars use these types of valves.

    Good luck with the polymer (glue). Brake fluid is nasty stuff for a glue to hold up to.

  22. #97
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    we talked about this :p Life would be better with a new mastercyl. Modifying brakes which are essential and go through hell would scare me. and cheaper EX:

    http://www.jegs.com/c/Brakes-Drivetr...10161/10002/-1

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also id love that brake data
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    I learned something new. I always thought ones like this type enabled total proportional pressure control through the range of braking pressure.
    http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=260-11179

    I guess the piston and spring in these types don't really respond "proportionally" at the low end. You get the same pressure front to rear until a threshold is made and then the piston starts to proportion after that point. That would make the rears seem grabby at low brake inputs. Kinda lame.

    Seems odd that this is the case, as many many cars use these types of valves.

    Good luck with the polymer (glue). Brake fluid is nasty stuff for a glue to hold up to.
    Actually I was not aware of these valves... I just knew of the in line mounted ones. Im not sure about how these units operate and how 'smooth' their proportional to the front pressure functionality is... why would people still mount twin master cylinders with balance bars then, and wilwood produce them?

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    we talked about this :p Life would be better with a new mastercyl. Modifying brakes which are essential and go through hell would scare me. and cheaper EX:

    http://www.jegs.com/c/Brakes-Drivetr...10161/10002/-1

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also id love that brake data
    What brake data?

    And untill now I havent found a tandem master cylinder (that fits) which outputs different pressures front and back. ..

  25. #100
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    What about boring out half the stock MC and re-plumbing so the rears feed from the small end?
    M50 3.0L stroker project: https://imgur.com/a/l8owP?nc=1

    Confucius say: Buy the best, cry only once.

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