While I was doing regular maintenance and removing the CDV today, I noticed the the insulation liner in the trans tunnel is sagging badly. It has polished the drive shaft and guibo and also looks to have friction burns on a lot of it. There is also a chance it may be interfering with the gear selector. How do i get it to sit against the tunnel wall? I didn't notice any attachment points in the upper area. Only down lower.
I know the feeling, after doing a reverse light switch I found mine sagging too. I rigged up some bits of a wire coat hangar and zip ties and made supports. Not sure how it's holding up as I haven't been under the car fro a few months. No interference with shifting.
2 options and both require drilling a few small holes.
Drill a series of holes and get some plastic panel connectors from the auto parts store. Similar to the ones that hold the insulation to the hood of the car.
Drill some holes and use screws and fender washers to secure it to the tunnel. This is probably the best way. You'll never get any kind of adhesive to hold in there
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Can't you just pull it out?
3m yellow trim adhesive should hold it up for as long as the original stuff held it up, same basic crap thats on there to start with, simply spray both sides wait a few min and then stick it together.
yes it will stick just clean up with brake cleaner first. no the non yellow glue wont. and no other brands wont work either. be very carefull drilling holes in your trans tunnle without removing the carpet from the interior. catching a wire or spinning the carpet backing around is a bad time.
Last edited by scoobiedoo2029; 09-02-2013 at 12:42 AM.
I was so excited to do this project until you pointed that out.
I like my car.
Okay, I have the same issue with my foam liner sagging. It rubs against my driveshaft and my center bearing. I don't want to replace it with a new BMW part. I've see people screwing it up, using glue/silicone, and using magnets. I want to try a different method that may be more permanent and be more effective than the OEM piece.
If I cut it out and use Peel & Seal and a waterproof foil tape, do you guys think it will hold up? This way, I still keep some sound insulation and heat insulation properties with the new stuff I put in.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326...587-_-10926682
http://www.lowes.com/pd_225505-98-33...ape&facetInfo=
Or ... you guys could just let it rub. I had that on my green coupe, no issue, my dad has had it on his car for the last 35k miles with no problem (unless you consider a polished section of driveshaft a problem).
MAGNETS! excellent idea.
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DY02
Last edited by anarekist; 04-23-2014 at 07:12 PM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Rip it out and replace with the foil backed dynamat.
Yea, you could use this one and attach it to the car body. Then stick and bolt, nut and washer through the insulation and it should be good for years.
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZB8
I'm still interested in my Peel & Seal method with additional foil tape. Does anybody think it will hold up to the temperatures and over time?
Find bigger things to worry about in life, rip it out if its a problem.
I ripped all of it out I could over two years ago and haven't noticed any issues, not even any warmth in the cabin. It's also one less place for dirt and moisture to collect.
Check out my current build pics here
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