E36 M3 Turbo: First Start, Blown Headgasket

[jake06]

Hey Guys, looking for some advice here.

Yesterday I started my car for the first time: e36 m3, gt35r, trm tune, .140 mls.

I prepped the block with 2 sanding stones, sent the head in and got it decked/pressure tested, and put a small amount of sealant around the vanos on the gasket.

I went to start the car up yesterday, there was a small amount coolant in the oil (but no oil in the coolant) which I just suspected was from cleaning the head/spilling coolant into the oil galleries. So I flushed the oil and put new stuff in, significantly less coolant showed up in the filter. But as soon as it was just starting to run for about 5-10 minutes, I noticed oil was leaking on to the ground. Tracked it back to the head.... But I did drain the coolant out after as well, and there was no oil in it.

So I'm thinking my options are:

1) take off the head, put sealant around leak, reinstall
2) go with the cutring spacer setup? I know nothing about this
3) build the engine (which I really don't have money for so its not really an option)

I knew the MLS would be a short term option, but I was hoping I wouldn't have to re build the block for a couple years....

If I could get some opinions on this from you guys and more info about what you would do/what the spacer setup does/is? I would really appreciate it.

[rodger533i]

Where specifically is the oil coming from?

[Butters Stoch]

sealant is needed around timing cover area, use ultra gray.
MLS will last a good amount of time if installed properly.

[jake06]

The oil is coming from right front and center on the block. Like right above the crank pulley. So do I just take it off, re clean and prep and use more sealant and re use the gasket?

[Butters Stoch]

I would.
there are many threads on installing a MLS.
Use salant around the entire timing cover area (under and over the MLS).

[NY98M3]

Ditch the MLS and go Cut Ring and never have to take the head off again!

Hondabond for around the timing cover. Its a must!

[Arctic98M3]

Ditch the MLS and go Cut Ring and never have to take the head off again!

Hondabond for around the timing cover. Its a must!

+1 You can buy them here, which is where I bought my last one about a month ago: http://www.intengineering.com/je-cut...re-0-079-thick or you can get them at CES Motorsports. The only place that sells the copper spacer you need along with the cut-ring is at CES. John@ CES is a great is a great guy to deal with. Good luck man.

[pbonsalb]

If I was buying today, I would probably go cut ring and spacer for $750 rather than MLS for $250. My MLS has been in for 3.5 years without issue but that is only 15-20k miles at the rate I am driving the car now. Most of the failure stories are from the older studs with less clamping strength. Have not read of many failures with the studs that came out a few years ago other than improper installation issues. But still, the cut ring and spacer kit is probably more durable and can probably take higher boost reliably.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

The oil is coming from right front and center on the block. Like right above the crank pulley.

How did you come to the conclusion that the HG is blown if it's leaking from the timing cover?

[cragg56]

How did you come to the conclusion that the HG is blown if it's leaking from the timing cover?

My thoughts too.

IIRC, Chickinhead used some sort of aviation sealant on the front of his timing cover to seal an oil leak that developed after he installed his head.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

My thoughts too.

IIRC, Chickinhead used some sort of aviation sealant on the front of his timing cover to seal an oil leak that developed after he installed his head.

I thought he said that it didn't totally seal or that could have been Matt with red turbo m3.

[jake06]

I actually got around to pulling off the vanos/valve cover today and left out the three bolts at the front. Banging my head against the wall right now........

But should I go back and put sealant on this head or just leave it? Planning on building the engine in a year or two.

[TechnoM]

I actually got around to pulling off the vanos/valve cover today and left out the three bolts at the front. Banging my head against the wall right now........

But should I go back and put sealant on this head or just leave it? Planning on building the engine in a year or two.

i seriously almost asked if you
a. forgot those bolts
or
b. didnt torque those 3 bolts properly
but i did not want to make it seem like i was questioning your competency. I would tryyyyyyy tossing those bolts in first before pulling the head.
what's it going to hurt, could be a 30 min fix as opposed to having to pull the head and re do everything

[Butters Stoch]

I agree with installing the bolts and giving it a try. if it still leaks then redo the MLS.
im not sure I would ditch the MLS jjust yet. Borat says many peoople have used MLS gaskets with great success.
spending $250 on MLS + $750 on cutring = low compression pistions + stock gasket.
get it running, save your pennies, and build a spare low compression motor or collect parts.
there are many threads on low copression Oring block setups to guide you in the future.

[cragg56]

I agree with installing the bolts and giving it a try. if it still leaks then redo the MLS.
im not sure I would ditch the MLS jjust yet. Borat says many peoople have used MLS gaskets with great success.
spending $250 on MLS + $750 on cutring = low compression pistions + stock gasket.
get it running, save your pennies, and build a spare low compression motor or collect parts.
there are many threads on low copression Oring block setups to guide you in the future.

+1. Plus, you could always clean up the inside area the best you can and put some RTV in there using your finger since the vanos is off. That wouldn't be my preferred choice, but I guess you could give it a shot. I debated it, but was too afraid that some of the RTV would come off and clog my oil pump.