Blimey, just came across this post - that's horrible, but what a great save!
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
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My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
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Chase - Heroes to a generation
Thanks guys.
As I noted in another thread, the things I could remove (fuse carrier etc.) got this: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_t...-Dissolver.htm
The things that stayed in the car got a couple days in Diet Coke.
Then everything was gone over with a Dremel steel brush attachment, which did the real work.
Damn all the pics got deleted, I too had some water coming in passenger side and my hazards flash after a good hour drive and then the highbeam flashes like crazy I know its just a matter of time before I get in to a fight with someone. I wonder if mine is corroded too because its driving me nuts *pun*
2005 X5 4.8is (DD winter) * 2001 750iL (DD summer) * 2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 L <> 2005 X5 3.0 * 2003 X5 4.4i * 2009 X3 3.0 * 2009 X5 3.0 * 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited
So, I'm going thru this process, and have 3 wires completely broken off from the combs next to the fuse block. What did you use as a reference for making sure the wiring was returned to their respective combs?
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Nevermind....once i pulled a few of the corroded broken wires back....it all made sense as to wtf BMW was trying to do in there....what a mess, but, i successfully repaired and bulletproofed my splices
2000 740i - 149K - Dville Monsoon rear deck speaker upgrade, GROM audio Bluetooth
1998 528i - 204K - GROM audio Bluetooth setup, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, BSW Stage One speaker kit, Facelift Xenon's with Angel Eyes
2003 M3 - 210K - BMW Euro Cross Drilled Rotors
My sunroof hoses where connect but I still had a wet floor board. It appears that the sun roof seal shrinks over time and the side channels get to much water and spill over into the front A piller covers and make it way to the floor.. I resolved the issue.. The sun roof is now sealed shut and the roof seam sealed and small drain holes made in floor boards.. What a mess it was..
leaks after windshield replaced, really messy job with the silicone. will be redoing that and checking under the carpet. passenger floor area always wet after rain. left headlight occasionally worked, the lights are good. right one will flick on when i turn the switch but immediately turn off. now sometimes one of my fogs doesn't work.
Your sunroof drain holes above the windshield are most likely closed with silicone then.
About to start the party!
Attachment 619728
El Cid 1999 ILDUDMD Tune/DINAN CAI/19 in Style 95 Rims/Bilstein's Shocks/Eibach Lowering Springs/OEM Folding Mirrors/Custom Cupholder/Custom Wood Sunshade/Sport Steering Wheel/Euro Center Console/Leather Shifter/Rearview Camera /Luke Custom 10 in Sub Box/Cross Drilled Rotors/Rear view Camera/BMW OEM Monitors/BMW E38 Picnic Tables/Vanity Headrests/OEM Roof Rack/Strut Bar/Dinan MAF and Dinan Throttle Body and Dinan tunning /BM53 Radio upgrade /Custom Innovadrive NXG39 modify and Alpine ILX-W650 touch screen radio.
Damn. anybody have a parts list of everything required to replace the box and all the connectors? i know i'll need to repair mine since she has a history of water...
TRPCHGE - '01 740i Black/Black 230k'ish - Power folding mirrors, Mk.IV Nav, 16:9, M-pars, Sport seats, Sport wheel, Steptronic, Euro rear fog switch, 2.50" X-Pipe, Shadowline, E53 4.6is Cluster, Lacewood interior, Chromeline, 3.15, Bilstein B6+H&R Stage II's. - SOLD 06/21
BSKCASE - '98 740il Arctic Silver/Black 175k'ish - Face-lifted, 3" Projectors, Shadowline, 01 Tails, Hydro Trunk, Sunshades, 750il Full interior retrofit, Sport Seats, Steptronic, Face-lift Steering Column, X5 Steering wheel, E53 4.6is Cluster, Euro E66 Piano black/Chrome Grab-handles, Chromeline, Suede Pillars/Headliner, Auto wipers/Lights, Lighted Handles interior/Exterior, Dual battery retrofit.
WIP: Custom Style 42 18x9.5" ET12, 18x10.5" ET8, 3.15 LSD Rear diff.
Attachment 619905 As you can see all of the rust is from the nuts. The connections, fuses and buss bars are tinned copper and are clean. My biggest concern will be the splices. I may just cut them off and use ring terminals to join them together.
This is the stuff you will need, https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1349
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I almost forgot. Make sure to clean up the three ground plates under the seat as well. That's the other half of the circuit.
Last edited by acspecialists; 01-11-2018 at 10:47 AM. Reason: parts link
BUMP as winter is here and these cars are getting older and older....
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
My friend's 01 bmw e39 has been through the same problem.
this happened some years ago, and he was able to fix the fuse terminal himself, he got the car running again but ever since he had issues with the airbag and couldn't figure it out.
I tried to help him out and i have another thread about it over here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...4#post30308034
long story short we came to the conclusion that he needed a new airbag control module.
as time went on he gave me a call, asking if i was interested in the car, and so
recently he passed the car to me for a great price and got himself a 14mod f30 and didn't want to bother with the e39 anymore.
The car itself is in good condition with low milage for the age, and thats one of the reason i want fix it.
I was able to get a used airbag control module and after i ran inpa again i was only displayed by 1 fault,
instead of the 10 fault displayed with the old control module.
the remaining fault is the "23 MRSA front right" Which is the right impact sensor located under the passenger carpet.
It turned out to be very corroded, i tried to open it up gently but it was glued together and i broke it during the teardown, anyway the circuit board was full of corrosion and a new one has been ordered.
IMG_20191018_181227.jpg IMG_20191018_181249.jpg
here you can see the fuse terminal replaced, and lots of rust residues on the floor.
i was curious about the wires running underneath the black cable management box and i also found and took out the splices and apparently they where not cleaned..
IMG_20191021_204353.jpgIMG_20191021_204524.jpg IMG_20191021_204225.jpg
Although i haven't noticed any other issues,
the car it self runs but lacks Vehicle inspection, and will not be approved if the airbag system is faulty.
While waiting for the AB impact sensor i am going to clean these splices and prevent further damage,
but what is actually these splices routed to?
I encountered a similar situation with my V12 E38. The EKAT Control Module was completely destroyed from being underwater, and the fuse box was in poor condition. Thankfully, the local salvage yard had an E39 that I got one from. Disassembled it, took the contact bars down to bare copper and re-coated them in zinc. While not the optimal choice (tin would be better here), it does form a protective/sacrificial coating no different than zinc-plated hardware. Plus, $6 for a can of weld-through primer (93% zinc) was worth a try. All of the corroded terminals were replaced with donor parts from the E39, spliced correctly with adhesive-lined crimp terminals. Car fired up with no fuss on the first try.
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
I’ve had the same leak in my e39 for a couple years...water pooling under passenger side carpet. First I resealed the vapor barriers in all four doors...didn’t help. Then I used sealant in all four drain tubes from the sunroof...still didn’t help. Finally discovered they used butyl tape to seal the front corners of the drain assembly together, it clamshells together...that’s where mine was leaking, from directly under the track at the front curve. Now I get to deal with the corroded fuse box...
My E38 has the same issue with the water and corrosion. Removing the green foam block resulting in it breaking up. Can I order that from somewhere to firm up my floor when I am done?
20200205_154657.jpg20200205_165912.jpg
Last edited by Panther740iL; 02-05-2020 at 11:36 PM.
I cut mine in front of the fuse box so the smallest/lightest piece is sandwiched between the carpet and fuse box. Pretty sure it's the same type of foam used in arranging flowers. Any fabric/craft store should have it for relatively cheap.
Here's an example of it: https://www.joann.com/floracraft-2in...n/1851369.html
Here's a 1" thick version: https://www.joann.com/floracraft-1in...e/5762703.html
12x18 should get you in the ballpark
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
I guess I know what I'll be doing after pulling and repairing the headliner this summer was hoping to forget there was a fuse box underneath there and chock it up to folklore..... would explain the zke3 module corrosion sunroof drain tubes probably bad..... nice post great fix.....
Grrr, have to do this myself. 99 percent sure that the sunroof leaking pooled water under passenger seat and corroded my power distribution block under there. Got car back from shop, I guess I forgot to close sunroof all the way, or there is drainage issues. So that will be checked too.
Symptoms were no crank, no start, no power windows, no door locks, not sunroof, no trunk pull down or release, no power seats, headlights would cause radio to loop, rear door lock would not open, key fob would only lock and unlock passenger door Ugh.
Getting the seat out is going to be a chore since rear door won't open, and there is no power seats, lol.
Will post photos once in there.
Hey. I didnt figure out what they all where for specifically.
Guess its just splices for all sorts of applications. Careful if you are going to clean them. I used some chemicals that removed the metal coating and made the splices to bare copper. Probably easier to buy new splices. I just covered them with some battery terminal grease. The car and electrics still works to this day.
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