Just (re)joined BFc, figured I'd introduce myself and my '84 745i

[DesktopDave]

I've been lurking here for years, figured I'd actually start contributing. I've been a BMW guy since I knew how to drive; we've owned quite a few over the years. Mainly they've been E30s - I have a '91 318i as a daily driver - but I've always had a side project or two. My last project was an '82 633CSi but I got a great offer on it before it was really complete. A few months later, I see a really rare 745i locally on Pittsburgh CL. Price was way too high for me, but I scraped together what cash I had and sent an offer. Happily, the owner accepted it! I bought it last week. It was listed on BFc in this thread. Alpinweiss with a Pearl White(?) leather interior. According to the build sheet, the car originally came with fabric seating, electric sunroof & windows, anti-theft system, rear sun shade and TRX wheels.

As she sits now, all electrical systems are 'go,' but she's not yet running. I have to finish replacing old rubber parts before I can really eliminate causes, but we're not there yet. The car has a lot of potential, seems to be in really solid shape all around. It's obvious that several owners have taken really good care of this car over the years, I'm hoping to live up to their efforts. After a good wash and hours of vacuuming, I haven't found any major problems yet. Just the usual stuff - a leaky trunk seal did some damage, mice have been here, lots of old wasp nests too.

While I'm no BMW n00b, this is my first turbocharged one...I'm looking forward to some old-fashioned turbo lag!







Highlights include a professional 5-speed conversion, solid bodywork, upgraded turbo, Hartge strut bar, Begi RRFPR, newer custom exhaust, good tires on decent 17" aftermarket rims. Trim and interior are in adequate shape except for the dashboard. Euro bumpers are tweaked but all there and not rusted out, Euro grille also survived the import process (unless it was swapped on later). BBS spoiler is dinged, missing driving lights but intact. P.O. passed along some other goodies too - an E34 535i wiring harness, HIDs, spare springs for the aftermarket wastegate, the original english switchgear, overhauled injectors, etc.

Problems include a leaking hydraulic booster, a few wiring hacks, a potentially dead DME, wasted dash and cracked parcel shelf. Sweet 80's Hella staggered headlights are cracked but functional. Windshield is damaged. One window doesn't work, sunroof won't vent, passenger seat has a cracked frame and motor problems, etc.

[SicStang03]

Hmmm post more pics of that tial wastegate. I wonder if you have the same adapter I do. Also has a RRFPR. And a manual swap. Nice! Looks like a fun project. Someone swapped the interior and wood out though.

[DesktopDave]

The interior was swapped out, but it's never been an Executive model AFAICT. No buffalo, no burl. I'll take some closeups of the Tial adapter.

[CMG]

I doubt you're interested but i'll trade you a brand new bavauto strut bar for that hartge one. Did you carfax it yet, looks similar to one i saw years ago on the west coast.

[D Unit]

Nice purchase. I hope you see this project through and thanks for saving the ol' girl!

[Hit Man X]

Hmmmmmmm car looks familiar. Was the PO a military guy or his pal a big time Viper guy? If so, the car has the Tial sitting atop the factory WG elbow with its own dump pipe and has an aftermarket turbocharger on the K27 manifold from memory.

Anyway, give it a compression test before you waste money buying parts seeing as it is an in-op currently.

And if car has pearl beige interior, I have a completely redone with Color Plus interior in that color I am tired of having around my place.

[DesktopDave]

Hmmm post more pics of that tial wastegate. I wonder if you have the same adapter I do. Also has a RRFPR. And a manual swap. Nice! Looks like a fun project. Someone swapped the interior and wood out though.

Your sig is getting blocked by PB!

Here's the wastegate & turbo (note missing nuts ):


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I doubt you're interested but i'll trade you a brand new bavauto strut bar for that hartge one. Did you carfax it yet, looks similar to one i saw years ago on the west coast.

It's from the West Coast, been in Florida and N.C. too. It's been in storage for three years here in PA, haven't done a Carfax.

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Hmmmmmmm car looks familiar. Was the PO a military guy or his pal a big time Viper guy? If so, the car has the Tial sitting atop the factory WG elbow with its own dump pipe and has an aftermarket turbocharger on the K27 manifold from memory.

Anyway, give it a compression test before you waste money buying parts seeing as it is an in-op currently.

And if car has pearl beige interior, I have a completely redone with Color Plus interior in that color I am tired of having around my place.

That all sounds surprisingly familiar. P.O. is a chopper pilot with the USMC from what I've heard, not sure about his pal - I bought it from a buddy here in PA. I'm told the turbo was updated, the exhaust is custom with an open dump pipe, not sure what a K27 manifold is (two-piece iron with a threaded sleeve connecting the two parts?).

I'll report back on the compression numbers once I get her cleaned up. The car sounds OK, but a good baseline is necessary.

A pearl beige interior....I'll get back to you on that, if the motor is in decent shape.

[Hit Man X]

LOL yup, same car. Wow. I feel like the 745i detective.

K27 manifold is that factory exhaust manifold. Amazing someone would go through all that hassle when a modern manifold is $500 only. That lag is due to more than a few reasons, I can make 6psi @ 2900rpm on my black 745i. If the stacked ECU and knock box are not working properly, there is your big lag... which I can tell as an electronic valve is disconnected.

Cold compression, with properly set valves should be around 150psi for that 8:1 motor. Even in the upper 120s to mid 150s should run decently.



Great to see you posted on scottie's site, I will reply there.

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Check this too: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1932934-DIY-magnetic-valve-replacement-upgrade

[DesktopDave]

I'll check into that boost valve. I haven't pulled mine apart to even check if one is installed (I'm a total turbo n00b ). It doesn't seem complicated, but I have to take it all apart to see what all the little gizmos do, and test them individually. I ran out of light, but I had managed to pull the intake tube and TB. TB needs cleaned, lubed & adjusted. The tee-shaped ICV -> intake hose is cracked too, that'll need to be replaced.

What's with the blocked port on the top of the TB? Mine is tapped with a brass screw to seal it. A port for upstream boost pressure?

[SicStang03]

Stupid photobucket. I must have too many pics. I deleted a few, how does it look now? Really not sure how to fix it other than delete photos.

[DesktopDave]

Stupid photobucket. I must have too many pics. I deleted a few, how does it look now? Really not sure how to fix it other than delete photos.

It's all good.

[DesktopDave]

I took my time today cleaning & putting everything back together...gave the key a twist...and the car fired up!


We're doing baby steps though...the car won't take any throttle, feels like the AFM isn't signalling the DME to enrich. WBO2 reports about 14:1...so it's a bit lean.

More reports to follow!

[Hit Man X]

I took my time today cleaning & putting everything back together...gave the key a twist...and the car fired up!


We're doing baby steps though...the car won't take any throttle, feels like the AFM isn't signalling the DME to enrich. WBO2 reports about 14:1...so it's a bit lean.

More reports to follow!

14:1 is right on the money for a 745i at operating temp. This is slightly rich and is how they run. I once thought they ran fatter (around 12:1), but not so. CO of 0.5-2% to WBO2 conversion puts it around 13.7-14.2:1 at hot idle, neutral/park, ~850rpm. If the CO tables I have been using are wrong, by all means correct me. I have set three 745i to this WBO2 number at idle and helped another with a 728i do the same.

How old is that fuel? Can you describe 'will not take any throttle'? What is your idle vacuum? How about fuel pressure? Does the AFM flapper door move without binding?



You need to verify the manual swap wiring was done properly and confirm the usual... coolant sensor is changing resistance properly, there are no vacuum leaks (check all hoses by hand), verify the TPS voltage as well as the idle switch, etc.

[DesktopDave]

14:1 is right on the money for a 745i at operating temp. This is slightly rich and is how they run. I once thought they ran fatter (around 12:1), but not so. CO of 0.5-2% to WBO2 conversion puts it around 13.7-14.2:1 at hot idle, neutral/park, ~850rpm. If the CO tables I have been using are wrong, by all means correct me. I have set three 745i to this WBO2 number at idle and helped another with a 728i do the same.

Given all the aftermarket stuff, I'd figure they'd have set this up a bit richer, but it's not a huge worry.

How old is that fuel? Can you describe 'will not take any throttle'? What is your idle vacuum? How about fuel pressure? Does the AFM flapper door move without binding?

Fuel is new, AFM flap feels stiff, but more or less just like very other one I've had. Resistance seems normal, but I've never had much luck reading those little resistor boards.

You need to verify the manual swap wiring was done properly and confirm the usual... coolant sensor is changing resistance properly, there are no vacuum leaks (check all hoses by hand), verify the TPS voltage as well as the idle switch, etc.

I'm heading that way tomorrow, if I get some time. I did note that the little thermo cold start valve wasn't functional. Even after an hour in the freezer it as only open slightly. I need to swap all the hoses - there were large leaks that are now far smaller ones - I wrapped them with tape temporarily.

It still has the auto TPS; that left some odd readings too. The idle switch is correct, but the three-wire inner switch was all over the place. I'm not sure if that's a voltage or resistance driven sensor...or even if it's junk. I have to consult the wiring diagrams to see if I can swap out the normal 3-pin TPS unit.

[kelevra]

how much do you want for the rear lip spoiler?

[DesktopDave]

I swapped a few parts this morning, no change. I did find a bit of a hack job at the AFM connector. Re-soldered the wires fully expecting my problems to vanish. Nope. Tested out the AFM, readings all over the place, none even close to what I'd expect, no change.

On a hunch, I pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped terminals 30 & 87...charged the battery for a while...then turned the car over...and lemme tell you, the old gal fired right up to a smooth 1200 rpm idle! She's certainly not afraid of the throttle any more, either (to tell you the honest truth, I'm now a little afraid of her).

She runs beautifully now!

The FP relay had tested OK, but when the pump started pulling some amps it's failing. The fuel pump is also noisy - could be air in the line or that could be heading south too. I have to get back there with a new filter & lines anyway, I'll check it then. So my shopping list keeps growing - add a new FP relay and another main relay too (never hurts to have a spare). I'm not sure there are any other critical relays in the car, are there? This little annoying crappy stuff is usually what costs me the most irritation, time and money.

Regardless, having the car running is a huge relief!

I'll have to dive into the brakes, clutch and P/S pump. That should be a fun little learning experience. The clutch is a bit of a hack job, and that hydroboost system is a mess.
You should hear the P/S pump screeching, sounds like a ten-year-old Saginaw!


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how much do you want for the rear lip spoiler?

It's not in great shape - lots of wrinkles and cracking. I didn't like it before but it's growing on me.

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Tonight's project was re-installing the pedals. The clutch was proud of the brake pedal about two inches and it really looked goofy. So I adjusted it...but saw the clutch return spring was dangling loose. To get that reinstalled, I was forced to pull the pedals. An hour of yoga under the dashboard, and it's all finished up. Also figured out why the car's brake lights don't work - bad brake light switch - and I have a clutch pedal cruise control switch.

Since I'm a fan of cruise control - I'm going to try to fit an E30 cruise setup I have sitting around. It's off an M20 but they're all the same system. I might have to find a cruise stalk but the rest of the system is probably the exact same parts. Anyone know if the gauge cluster has a speed output plug?

Another question - the clutch reservoir is loose, and it's the first time I've seen a separate reservoir from the brakes. Is the E23 normally like the E30 brake reservoir, with a clutch pipe nipple? Or is the separate reservoir the way the E23 was set up originally? The clutch master is a wee bit higher than the brake master, but I don't think it'd put bubbles in the clutch line. ***Edit*** Never mind - found out the parts are right on BMWFans.info. I might try swapping it out anyway.

[Hit Man X]

Check pic at end for how the clutch reservoir is mounted from factory.

The cruise... it is pretty much a standalone system. When they are dead, it is almost always the amplifier. VDO built them... and they die in every MB, Porsche, etc from the era. The caps crap out. I have yet to experience a dead switch and the servo rarely dies, when they start to pull too many amps they cap kill the amp. Yah, the speedo has an output. Even has one for the dual Becker radio setup to boost volume at three designated speeds.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...65&hg=66&fg=20

[SicStang03]

You replaced the fuel pump relay on the side of the fuse box after you jumped it?

[DesktopDave]

You replaced the fuel pump relay on the side of the fuse box after you jumped it?

LOL, not yet...I've just been pulling the jumper out to shut off the pump...

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Check pic at end for how the clutch reservoir is mounted from factory.

The cruise... it is pretty much a standalone system. When they are dead, it is almost always the amplifier. VDO built them... and they die in every MB, Porsche, etc from the era. The caps crap out. I have yet to experience a dead switch and the servo rarely dies, when they start to pull too many amps they cap kill the amp. Yah, the speedo has an output. Even has one for the dual Becker radio setup to boost volume at three designated speeds.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...65&hg=66&fg=20

Yep - that's how my clutch reservoir is mounted. I'll have to find which wires it should be using and get some more of that cute blue braided line to fix it. Thanks for the pic!

The E30 system is similar, the actuator is a slightly different design. Likely just a case or mounting difference. I've had good luck with them - I've even pulled one out of a waterlogged car and it still worked. That might be what ends up in this car.

[DesktopDave]

Today's fun was the reverse light and a little HVAC entertainment. The reverse lights would work better if they'd been plugged into the switch. It was never extended from the automatic shifter harness. I'll hook that up later - I have an E30 harness that's bound to have the correct female two-pin connector.

The HVAC was better off than I thought. Most of the servos seem to work. The green feed line, rubber manifold and top three lines all hold pressure, the red heater servo doesn't make any noise but holds vacuum. The blue one on the side is OK too. The only dead ones are the gray & violet ones - they won't hold negative pressure. Violet is the left fresh air flap, not sure about the white one. There is also an unplugged port on the passenger firewall under the heater valve, and the ell on the (main feed?) check valve is also unplugged.

BTW - HitManX - you're the best! Not sure anyone has told you this recently, but those HVAC diagrams and your detailed explanations have been incredibly helpful.

Also found two disconnected vac lines. The RRFPR line had popped off, the boost gauge line was cracked in two places, and the main feed to the cabin looks ratty. I'll pull the cowl someday to check that all out. I have several feet of small diameter red silicone line from an old project...the engine compartment will look a bit boy-racer but at least it'll pull vacuum.

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Chopped some connectors off an E30 harness and plugged it in. Reverse lights work!

I'm a bit mystified by the ATF leak off the regulator. It almost seems like it's coming through a sensor switch body...part #2 in this schematic. I'll have to see what one of those switches is going for these days, looks like about $50 on Ebay. Hopefully that will cure the leak. The old girl really marks her spot, ATF oozes out for days on end!

[CMG]

Sounds like u were just the right person to save that car

[DesktopDave]

Sounds like u were just the right person to save that car

Thanks, I try (and mostly succeed). Sometimes it's difficult to tell where the madness ends and the therapy begins.

But that's why we're all here, isn't it? Saving an endangered species!

[Hit Man X]

Pics of the progress? Do not worry, I will not ask you to buy parts off your car unless you actually offer them for sale.

Pick up a good boost solenoid yet? This makes it spool up so much quicker, it is not even funny. ECUs are stuck in limp mode! OEM ones are in the $70 area I think. But that writeup Trey did is slick! Any aftermarket solenoid is fine... like what you would find on a Greddy kit for example, or factory cars!

[DesktopDave]

Pics of the progress? Do not worry, I will not ask you to buy parts off your car unless you actually offer them for sale.

Pick up a good boost solenoid yet? This makes it spool up so much quicker, it is not even funny. ECUs are stuck in limp mode! OEM ones are in the $70 area I think. But that writeup Trey did is slick! Any aftermarket solenoid is fine... like what you would find on a Greddy kit for example, or factory cars!

I'm in the parts buying phase on this car, LOL, there won't be any selling here!

I've been busily taking things apart - so not many pictures. I'm going to focus on the hydraulic pump next, have to get that sorted for steering and brakes.

The HVAC "more fun than a barrel of monkeys" system can wait. I'll repair the right fresh air actuator if possible, but I'm leaving the dead fan resistor pack and two leaking hoses as-is for now. I sent off a parts request to Performance Ananlysis Company (perfanalysis.com) for rebuild diaphragm kits (thanks for the link BTW). It's an enigma wrapped in a puzzle enclosed in fragile NLA plastic parts...what a job! I'm going to pull the dash later on to totally re-do that mess. It'll be easier to test and repair out of the car, instead of reaching into nooks and crannies of the dash to do band-aid fixes as I've been doing.

[Hit Man X]

I have considering just closing off those 'fresh air' cowls as they always are fractured. They are closed when A/C is on max as the car recirculates the air. If I want fresh vent air, I will just open a window. Only 'what about...' I had was in the winter with the heat, BUT seeing how those flaps are not 100% sealed, fresh air is still being sucked in anyway.

Thoughts?

Just plug the hoses that are open, easy! The resistors, I posted that info on here about 18 months ago. They are maybe $10 in parts.



Did you find the guy here that rebuilds the hydraulic brake boosters and such?

Make a new thread if the vac pod rebuilds work for these cars. They are for the MBs and work fine, they should be fine on heater valve, one fresh air unit, footwell, and recirculation pod.