I also posted about this in the E36 subforum, but thought I'd post over here, too.
I've lost track of how many hours I have spent laboring, trying to get this rear axle back into the hub. (It's probably at least a cumulative total 10 hours. ) I replaced a bad wheel bearing and pushed the hub back on, but I cannot, for the life of me, push this axle back in. I've mostly been going at it using 2x4s and a dead blow hammer. It gets in a little bit, and it appears to be straight and the splines are lined up... but it just won't move any farther in.
Anyone that's done this before that would like to come over and help me out? I'll gladly pay you in cash, beer, etc.
pb blast it
duh
Make sure there's not rust on the splines or in the hub, then soak it in pb, you'll likely need to hammer it back in. I just a subframe on a friends ti, pulled the axle and put it back it, refused to go back in after 10mins of being removed. Just soak it all and knock it back in.
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
PB or grease it. For quicker results, warm up the hub, PB blast it, and the grease residue will coat the splines and soften any rust in there to have the axle pop right back into place. Also, one you get a couple or so threads in, get the wheel nut and use a 1/2" breaker bar and pull the rest of the axle through and voila. Work smart, not hard.
And on another note, can I haz your em three see-Dan?
Where you live? I've done a ton of them
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
I used a wire brush on it then put some lube on it. Went right in for me.
Update....
I've done everything everyone has suggested in this thread, a thread in the E36 section, and elsewhere on the web. Cleaning, wire brush, soaking in PB blaster, extra lube, heating the hub, freezing the axle, small file to remove burrs in splines, etc. No luck.
It seemed like the axle splines were a little damaged, so in desperation, I said F' it and ordered a new axle. Still no luck.
WTF is the problem? Good lord......
For the love of gawd, someone please let me pay you to come get this axle in. Please.
(For those that can't see my location on the mobile app, I'm in Mechanicsburg, PA.)
Last edited by BradR127; 08-28-2013 at 05:30 PM.
Push it through the opposite direction. If it goes through, then keep trying
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
Try to rotate the axles a bit while pushing it in. make sure the axle splines are parallel to the hub. I think thats the main reason why its not going in. You may need someone else to help so you can angle the splines perfectly into the hub. i used a rubber mallet at the other end to bang in the splines.
I had the same problem and it took 40 mins until it finally went in some. After that give, i used a 2x4 and a rubber mallet to get the rest of it in. Once you have enough thread showing, you can put on the nut and tighten it so it pulls the axle in.
Last edited by hc1001; 08-29-2013 at 11:37 AM.
if it's like my e39 (sounds like it), I chased the splines with a razor, wire brushed it, then coated the whole thing with anti-seize. Both sides went right in...
seen a e30 325ix front axle do this. buddy of mine has all the tools an what not an installed all new stuff everywhere. the axle needed to be pulled in, he had the bmw tool for this, but there is no threaded hole for this on the e36 half shafts so one would have to press them in from behind. c-clamps or an all thread contraption an steel with holes cut in it, trailing arm out of the car an on a table is the only way i can see you getting anywhere.
get that trailing arm off to start. its not hard, just mark your rtab pocket an camber bolt if present for alignment when you drop it. leave the control arms attached to diff, those bolts suck to deal with. leave the brake caliper hose be, just remove the two 10mm's on the trailing arm an set it aside. mind the sensors and its out an every thing else is still together. maybe you can get the axle in if everything is strait and gravity can help. if not it needs smushed in with some kind of threaded tool.
Last edited by scoobiedoo2029; 09-14-2013 at 03:16 AM.
Are you 100% sure you got the correct hub!?
what's the part number for the spline part? Is it part of the drive flange hub? 33 41 1 095 774 thanks.
Good post, Ed. I will provide the picture:
409.png
01 Drive flange hub 2 33411095774 $110.11
Looks like this in person:
33411095774.jpg
If you got the wrong part, you're going to be wasting your time and hurting your half-shaft as well.
Harry // 1995 Avus Blue M3 - 2003 Titansilber 530i M-Sport - 2010 Black Sapphire Metallic 128i M-Sport // BMW CCA #453346 - North Capitol Chapter
My previous work:
My 325is M-Tech Restoration Thread
My 98 M3 and 03 530i Restoration Thread
What was your solution for this? Having the same issue after replacing my wheel bearings. Passenger side went fine, driver side is being a nightmare. Did everything you had tried, (cold, heat, cleaned, anti-seize, grease, etc.) Hit the shaft so hard I eventually pushed the hub back out of the bearing, destroying it in the process so now I'm back to square one.
I don't know where I'm going from here, but I promise it won't be boring.
I ended up replacing the bearing and hub. Was able to salvage the original half shaft by carefully filing the splines.
I don't know where I'm going from here, but I promise it won't be boring.
If they were aftermarket Generic replica replacement parts, then there was the OP's problem.
Precision replacement parts require Precision manufacturing + quality control,
something non-OE or non-OEM parts are sorely lacking!
ok so Today I had the same issues. My axle would not go into the hub. I followed everything here and nothing worked. I spend about 6 hrs all day banging and greasing etc... Finally, I took the strut completely out. jack the hub up and align the axle straight. Steering wheel in lock position. It was only then I was able to give 5 solid bangs to the hub when I noticed the axle was starting to work its way in. As soon as i got enough treads to put the bolt on I stopped and hooked everything back together. Next you want to get your big 36 mm socket and use a compressor to lightly turn the bolt. I set mine to 50 lbs of torque. keep the gun on it until you see the bolt head line up with the axle. then go back and double check that all your other bolts are nicely secured. put the wheel back on, when the car is on the ground, torque the centre axle bolt to 300 lbs.
Well, Tomorrow I'll test drive my car. hopefully, I didn't damage the axle with all that banging.
I just thought I'd share my experience on what worked for me.
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