Just pulled th engine out of my 550...

[schpenxel]

I didnt think it would break it loose. Maybe if you had a huge tank with lots of CFM's. And no worries about posting on the thread. Just add pics as you go along. I think it will help people going forward to see what is involved in pulling and servicing a N62 engine. Not much info out there yet. So post some pics up! I will be finishing my transmission tomorrow and will get some pics up during the process.

Cool! Look forward to seeing them. Yeah I was really thinking this 3/4 impact would break it free, but evidently I was mistaken. I guess there's always the 1" model :

How did you strap your engine down to keep it from tipping over while breaking the bolt loose? I was thinking if I use the engine hoist and hook one side of the engine to the "hoist" side with a chain then chain the other side of the engine to one or both of the legs, that should be enough to hold it while I put a stupid size cheater pipe on it.. I'm not sure I have a breaker bar strong enough honestly. Still can't believe how tight they make that bolt.

Looks like I need that full timing kit soon! Holding the engine still isn't going to me much good without something holding the crank still.

I took about 120 pictures today, so I'll just post some of the main ones

-----------

Today I wanted to take the old engine apart as much as possible, one to see the condition of things at this mileage, and two to make sure I understand how everything goes together. I could not get the crank bolt off, so I was not able to pull the lower timing cover off.. I got most everything else apart though. I think the bearing caps I pulled, especially the main bearing one, looked to be in great shape for the mileage.

Pictures:








Just checking timing on the old engine

[kaineb]

Very cool, the old engine has some milkshake in it! I strapped it against the way i would be pulling against on the bolt and had a neighbor literally stand on the side of the engine stand i was pulling against as well to counterweight it. You can also crack it loose on the car still with the hood off. all of your bearings look pretty good. Be careful when you time the engine. Tighten all 4 camshafts and readjust from one side of the engine to the other. Remember to rotate the engine 2 times to go back to tdc. Never go counter clockwise if you go past where the pin is inserted. Go around 2 times again. You will find that you will have to loosen and tighten the vanos units several times to get those tools to sit flat on the head on all 4 at one time. You will have to put counter pressure on a cam or to as they tend to rotate when you tighten. Even better have a second person hold the wrench.

[schpenxel]

Very cool, the old engine has some milkshake in it! I strapped it against the way i would be pulling against on the bolt and had a neighbor literally stand on the side of the engine stand i was pulling against as well to counterweight it. You can also crack it loose on the car still with the hood off. all of your bearings look pretty good. Be careful when you time the engine. Tighten all 4 camshafts and readjust from one side of the engine to the other. Remember to rotate the engine 2 times to go back to tdc. Never go counter clockwise if you go past where the pin is inserted. Go around 2 times again. You will find that you will have to loosen and tighten the vanos units several times to get those tools to sit flat on the head on all 4 at one time. You will have to put counter pressure on a cam or to as they tend to rotate when you tighten. Even better have a second person hold the wrench.

Sounds like I'm going to need someone to help me with this one! Yeah, old engine has a lot of milkshake for sure--nasty stuff.

I got several quarts of pure coolant out when I first went to drain the oil.. wasn't even mixed in with oil at all (guess it was leaking while the engine wasn't running)

Where did you attach the strap to the engine? I am trying to manage not to break anything and can just imagine stripping a bolt out or a piece of the block going flying when I'm on the other end of a 6ft pipe trying to break this thing loose, lol

Thanks for the tips on the timing procedure

[Stephen Max]

Dang. I bought a cheaper timing kit last year that didn't have the crank holding piece. I couldn't figure out what it was for and why it would be needed for setting cam timing. Oh well, I'm not planning on doing anything where I would need it anyway. For now.

[kaineb]

Sounds like I'm going to need someone to help me with this one! Yeah, old engine has a lot of milkshake for sure--nasty stuff.

I got several quarts of pure coolant out when I first went to drain the oil.. wasn't even mixed in with oil at all (guess it was leaking while the engine wasn't running)

Where did you attach the strap to the engine? I am trying to manage not to break anything and can just imagine stripping a bolt out or a piece of the block going flying when I'm on the other end of a 6ft pipe trying to break this thing loose, lol

Thanks for the tips on the timing procedure

With the engine facing me, workbench to the right of me, i strapped across the front lift mount to the bench. So when rotated the bolt it would pull against the bench. you still have to have someone stand on the engine stand to foot it. It WILL flip over with the strap only. The bottom of the engine stand will flip out. Reverse the location of the bench when tightening.

[schpenxel]

With the engine facing me, workbench to the right of me, i strapped across the front lift mount to the bench. So when rotated the bolt it would pull against the bench. you still have to have someone stand on the engine stand to foot it. It WILL flip over with the strap only. The bottom of the engine stand will flip out. Reverse the location of the bench when tightening.

Thanks--sounds like a plan.

Got a problem someone else brought up on another forum: 745i's up to 10/2003 used a different configuration of the exhaust manifold studs/manifold on cylinder #4. They're rotated about 90* from the way the 545i's all are (first picture below is early 2003 745, second picture is for 545's--note cylinder #4) Beginning 10/2003 745i's used 4 of exhaust gasket 11627505789. This is the same part number / quantity used on mine/545i's. Prior to that, 745i's used 3 of these plus one gasket that was different for cylinders 3/4 where they looked like the picture posted below. I'm not sure if the 10/2003 date for the switchover is the manufacture date of the CAR or the engine itself. Looks like I might have to use one old head--guess it's a good thing I was planning on pulling them off. Just hope the old one is OK to use since this was on the same side as the cracked cylinder (obviously will have t-hoff go through it first to get their take) or I'll have to buy another one. Gah.


</p>

- - - Updated - - -

Alright, one last post on this tonight and I'll leave it alone until I can go check tomorrow to be sure what I'm working with. I sure am glad it was pointed out--otherwise I wouldn't have noticed until after I had the "new" heads machined and quite possibly one of them wouldn't have mounted up to my exhaust manifold..

I've found that both heads had a part number change on 10/1/2003, along with the upper oil pan. I can't find any visual difference on the drivers side head, but obviously the passenger side head had some changes. I found a [supposedly] low mileage used head on eBay with the NEW part number, just in case I need it. Cost is about $200 and they aren't far from me. I may can just use my old head, the issue being that the intermediate levers are out of spec, which causes a rough idle condition on cold starts on cold days which I was really hoping to get rid of. I am also worried that whatever messed up the cylinder also messed up that head. Either of those could justify just buying another head to use with lower mileage as the intermediate levers alone are quite expensive.

I've also confirmed the part numbers for the block ARE the same, along with the oil pump, lower oil pan, rear main seal and most everything else I checked, so I think I am good there. That makes me feel better--at worst I may have to use the upper oil pan off my old engine if there is a difference that matters (two bell housing bolts connect to the upper oil pan, so it very well may)

Welp, that's all I've got for now. Ultimately it's not a show stopper it doesn't look like, but does make my decision to pull the heads an easy one.. it looks like I don't have a choice actually..

[kaineb]

Mine also uses the 3/1 config for the gaskets. You obviously have an issue if the exhaust manifolds have a different part number and are physically different. I would not suggest mixing and matching heads because of valvetronic. The rockers and intermediate levers both have their own tolerance classes and are matched to the head from the factory. I researched and a new head has to come with the valvetronic unit.

This is the whole reason i replaced my rockers, intermediate levers, and eccentric shafts. Replacing the levers alone is a temporary solution and the issue will return semi-swiftly. BMW learned the hard way on this. They started by replacing heads, then realized it was the valvetronic alone. The first repairs were lever only but the problem returned. So they replaced all 3 components and that fixed it permanently.

I would physically check and see if your manifold ports / bolt holes line up before you go the other route.

[schpenxel]

Dad checked this morning and the #4 cylinder is def the "old" 745i configuration. However, it looks like there may be plenty of room to drill holes in the proper places and still use the heads that came with the new engine. I need to review it in person to be sure. It almost looks like the casting is the same either way and they just drill and tap whichever location they need. I guess that makes sense, which is always surprising for BMW engineering.

I'll put some pictures up later

Good info on the valvetronic system and it's issues. If there truly is enough room to simply add the correct holes, that may be my best option to keep the original heads. Of course I would have a machine shop take care of it for me, drilling into a head isn't quite my cup of tea

- - - Updated - - -

Picture of "new" engine--see studs on the back two cylinders are parallel when they should be like how the first two cylinders are. I'm going to run by there during lunch to compare to the exhaust manifold and get a better handle on what I need to do




Plenty of meat to work with!

------------------------


Picture disappeared, not sure what happened.

Here is the port in question:

Studs need to be at around the 10:30 position and 4:30 position. At least the casting is there to work with

[kaineb]

Hey very cool, i didn't even think of that. Yes absolutely go that route with having the machine shop drill the studs. They likely can remove the 2 in the head and reuse them in the new holes. I would bring the exhaust manifold with you and the nuts to ensure that the holes go in the right place. This will help them allot. Great idea sir!! I will post my progress here in a little while. I have all of the trans sub components together and will go back int he case tonight.

[schpenxel]

Hey very cool, i didn't even think of that. Yes absolutely go that route with having the machine shop drill the studs. They likely can remove the 2 in the head and reuse them in the new holes. I would bring the exhaust manifold with you and the nuts to ensure that the holes go in the right place. This will help them allot. Great idea sir!! I will post my progress here in a little while. I have all of the trans sub components together and will go back int he case tonight.

Awesome--I love seeing transmissions go together, I guess because I've never really worked on them

I have to give credit to my dad on that idea.. although he would have taken out a cordless drill and tap from walmart and tried to add the holes if I had let him, lol. Machine shop for me.

Going to give t-hoff a call today and planning on dropping the heads off (from new engine) on Monday afternoon so they can get going on them. I am hoping within two weeks I will have everything here I need to put it back together.

Also I decided to go ahead and replace the torque converter and mechatronics sleeve while I'm at it. Figure why not at this point. I had the sleeve from when I did the transmission solenoids a year or so ago, but didn't have the E-torx wrenches to get the rear transmission mount out of the way. Guess that means I need to order a few liters of ZF fluid also.

One question: Did you do any special prep on the deck of the block, where the heads attach? I was planning on just using B12 and some MEK and just spending a lot of time cleaning it until it's like new, but was curious if you did anything special

[kaineb]

Hey, in one of my earlier posts here i mentioned that i flipped the block upside down on the stand and used really fine grade steel wool from the auto parts store and cleaner as a lubricant to get any residual stuff off. I then vacuumed all over and finally shot brake cleaner all over in case there was some dust. When it was ready for final prep i used carb cleaner as it doesn't have oil in it like brake cleaner does. But brake cleaner works much better as an initial cleaner. Remember to use motor oil in the cylinders before the heads go on so they don't rust or bind, just don't get a drop on the block to head surface.

I was going to to take pics of the internals going together but i realized i already posted a video earlier in the thread and i was in the zone anyway so i forgot. I did however manage to throw out the bolts that hold the mechatronic unit to the transmission. So another $40 for 7 bolts, not happy. I keep telling myself it will be worth all this expense when it is completed, i sure hope so.

When you call T-Hoff ask to speak to Robert. Please mention that the guy that brought the 550 heads to him last month sent you. I just wanted to do the right thing since he is a great guy and was really willing to take his time and explain my 1000 annoying questions in person.

[schpenxel]

Hey, in one of my earlier posts here i mentioned that i flipped the block upside down on the stand and used really fine grade steel wool from the auto parts store and cleaner as a lubricant to get any residual stuff off. I then vacuumed all over and finally shot brake cleaner all over in case there was some dust. When it was ready for final prep i used carb cleaner as it doesn't have oil in it like brake cleaner does. But brake cleaner works much better as an initial cleaner. Remember to use motor oil in the cylinders before the heads go on so they don't rust or bind, just don't get a drop on the block to head surface.

I was going to to take pics of the internals going together but i realized i already posted a video earlier in the thread and i was in the zone anyway so i forgot. I did however manage to throw out the bolts that hold the mechatronic unit to the transmission. So another $40 for 7 bolts, not happy. I keep telling myself it will be worth all this expense when it is completed, i sure hope so.

When you call T-Hoff ask to speak to Robert. Please mention that the guy that brought the 550 heads to him last month sent you. I just wanted to do the right thing since he is a great guy and was really willing to take his time and explain my 1000 annoying questions in person.

Will do--sending you a PM about something else also

Totally missed the post about cleaning the deck with steel wool--I will have to read it in a little more detail. When do you think you will have your car back up and going?

I sure hope it's worth it for me too.. otherwise I'm going to be kicking myself for not just throwing it in and going with it

[schpenxel]

Drove up to Raleigh this morning and picked up my "full" timing kit from bimmertoolrental.com

Also ordered most of my parts this morning--will post a list later

Pictures of the kit from bimmertoolrental, and my 6' long cheater bar + 3/4" drive breaker bar below. The scale of the cheater bar/breaker/socket just don't come across very well in pictures for whatever reason.
























- - - Updated - - -

And here is a list of parts I have ordered. Some of the cheaper items I ordered more than I need just in case..

I still have to order new head bolts and head gaskets. I wanted to wait until I have the machine shop look at the heads before ordering new gaskets to see whether I'll need standard or larger head gaskets

I wrote the descriptions so apologies on any typos

Part Number	Description	Price/Ea	Qty	Total
11367501423KT	Cam gear to cam shaft bolts	$16.90	1	$16.90
11127518420	Eceentric sensor seals	$4.27	2	$8.54
11141439717	Lower timing cover seals	$11.07	1	$11.07
11147647380	Front crank seal (lower timing cover)	$25.91	1	$25.91
7129905568	Timing cover bolts	$0.99	12	$11.88
07129905572KT	Timing cover bolts (10 pcs.)	$21.10	1	$21.10
11137545293	Upper oil pan gasket	$20.93	1	$20.93
11417508114	Oil pump o-ring	$9.60	1	$9.60
07119904527kt	Oil pan bolts	$7.39	1	$7.39
07119905394KT	Oil pan bolts	$9.90	2	$19.80
7119904845	Oil pan bolts	$1.91	2	$3.82
11137506774	Lower oil pan gasket	$17.37	1	$17.37
7119905396	Oil pan bolts	$1.02	20	$20.40
12611744292	Oil level sensor o -ring	$5.00	1	$5.00
11627505789	Exhaust manifold gasket	$7.95	4	$31.80
11627509731KT	Exhaust manifold nuts	$26.30	2	$52.60
11231440076	Crankshaft / Dampner bolt ("Jesus bolt")	$12.46	1	$12.46
11317507432	Cam chain tensioner seal	$0.99	2	$1.98
11317533479	Bank 1 (passenger) timing chain guide rail	$47.65	1	$47.65
11317533462	Bank 1 (passenger) timing chain tensioner rail	$28.79	1	$28.79
11317504471	Bank 1 (passenger) timing chain upper slide rail	$38.06	1	$38.06
11317533489	Bank 2 (driver) timing chain guide rail	$34.43	1	$34.43
11317533483	Bank 2 (driver) timing chain tensioner rail	$28.79	1	$28.79
11317504475	Bank 2 (driver) timing chain upper slide rail	$38.06	1	$38.06
24407561393	Flex plate to torque converter bolts	$3.34	4	$13.36
11617573839	Intake manifold nuts	$0.71	5	$3.55
11667509080	Vacuum pump o-ring	$1.65	1	$1.65
07147129160KT	Underbelly bolt kit	$14.95	1	$14.95
11517508535	Water pump gasket (primary)	$9.60	1	$9.60
11517507717	Water pump gasket (small one for small tube)	$1.32	1	$1.32
12612367061	Oil pressure switch	$6.20	1	$6.20
11227805885KT	Flex plate to crankshaft bolts (set of 10)	$28.60	1	$28.60
11147512101	Rear main seal	$77.16	1	$77.16
17211742636	Transmission oil line o-rings	$0.99	3	$2.97
11147512862	Lower timing chain guide	$24.14	1	$24.14
7119905863	Bolts for timing cover	$1.40	1	$1.40
7119905401	Bolts for timing cover	$1.82	7	$12.74
7119905402	Bolts for timing cover	$2.18	2	$4.36
7119905403	Bolts for timing cover	$3.15	1	$3.15
07119905399KT	Rear coolant cover bolts	$9.90	2	$19.80
11311439552	Timing chain tensioner	$66.41	2	$132.82
11317501735KT	Upper timing chain slide gasket (set of 10)	$26.50	1	$26.50
11367546379KT	VANOS o-rings	$18.40	1	$18.40
7119904524	Dip stick bolt	$0.99	1	$0.99
11617521181	Intake gasket	$23.11	2	$46.22
FGR7DQP-8	Spark plug set	$45.95	1	$45.95
11317533488	Cam tensioner bolt	$4.21	2	$8.42
11317548033	Oil squirter (new tensioner design)	$24.14	1	$24.14
11317504455	Cam tensioner bolt	$2.29	1	$2.29
11317552896	"Bearing screw" (for bank 2 timing chain tensioner)	$19.82	1	$19.82
11127550856kt	Head bolt washers	$12.90	2	$25.80
11117524470	Engine to transmission dowels	$1.93	2	$3.86
11121726241	Block to cylinder head dowels	$0.99	7	$6.93
17137516004	Expansion tank cap	$5.72	1	$5.72
11127513195	Valve cover gasket set, bank 2 (driver side)	$36.06	1	$36.06
11147504376	Rear coolant cover w/seal	$48.11	1	$48.11
11147506424	Upper timing cover gasket, bank 1	$7.03	1	$7.03
11147506425	Upper timing cover gasket, bank 2	$7.03	1	$7.03
11340029751	Vavle seal set	$56.53	2	$113.06
11341461405	Valve stem locks	$1.76	12	$21.12
11431287541	Dipstick O-Ring	$0.99	1	$0.99
12317507807	Alternator bracket seal	$2.68	2	$5.36
			Total	$1,345.90

[kaineb]

Very cool Penxel, were you able to send the other kit back? Hope they will accept it since it was a partial kit. Nice pics of all the tools, there are quite a bit but makes it a breeze. And ya see the size of that socket! Good that you used heavy pipe on that. My list of parts was so long i dont know that i kept track. The expensive 1 offs will get you. The ones you have to order direct from the dealer. I cant wait to get my car back but my Torque Converter is a fortune, waiting for that. It has been months without my car, i cant wait to drive it again. the feel and sound of the ol' N62TU V8 passing right by your 545... ha ha ha...

[schpenxel]

Very cool Penxel, were you able to send the other kit back? Hope they will accept it since it was a partial kit. Nice pics of all the tools, there are quite a bit but makes it a breeze. And ya see the size of that socket! Good that you used heavy pipe on that. My list of parts was so long i dont know that i kept track. The expensive 1 offs will get you. The ones you have to order direct from the dealer. I cant wait to get my car back but my Torque Converter is a fortune, waiting for that. It has been months without my car, i cant wait to drive it again. the feel and sound of the ol' N62TU V8 passing right by your 545... ha ha ha...

Did you get a new torque converter or rebuilt? Sorry, you might have answered that already.

Random question--is there a spec for how tight to set the timing chain tensioner that comes in the timing kit? I've seen 0.7Nm on other models?

They gave me an RMA number and let me send the kit back, but I have not received a refund yet (they received it back on Thursday so not unexpected). I have a feeling they're going to try to charge me a re-stocking fee on it, but whatever, better than nothing. It was sold as the smaller version of the kit on purpose, made for setting the timing but not made for removing/installing the crank bolt. I didn't realize quite how much of a bastard the crank bolt is and thought I'd manage without it.. not so much apparently

Man that pipe was expensive I thought. I bought the heaviest looking stuff I could find that would fit my breaker bar pretty well.. $25 just for those two pieces. 5.5' pipe + I weigh about 160 = 880 ft*lbs at most. If that isn't enough, I'm screwed. Maybe I can have someone else help. If not, time for a torque multiplier

[kaineb]

Did you get a new torque converter or rebuilt? Sorry, you might have answered that already.

Random question--is there a spec for how tight to set the timing chain tensioner that comes in the timing kit? I've seen 0.7Nm on other models?

They gave me an RMA number and let me send the kit back, but I have not received a refund yet (they received it back on Thursday so not unexpected). I have a feeling they're going to try to charge me a re-stocking fee on it, but whatever, better than nothing. It was sold as the smaller version of the kit on purpose, made for setting the timing but not made for removing/installing the crank bolt. I didn't realize quite how much of a bastard the crank bolt is and thought I'd manage without it.. not so much apparently

Man that pipe was expensive I thought. I bought the heaviest looking stuff I could find that would fit my breaker bar pretty well.. $25 just for those two pieces. 5.5' pipe + I weigh about 160 = 880 ft*lbs at most. If that isn't enough, I'm screwed. Maybe I can have someone else help. If not, time for a torque multiplier

I just tested my OEM ones by hand and put them in when i was doing the timing. I have done this 2 other times when doing the timing on my engine without any issues.

That crank bolt is a Bleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep......

you are going like a madman, by the time i get mine done you will already be.

[White94RX]

Fwiw, I have never timed an engine using the special tool that pretensions the timing chain. I always, always put the tensioner in and tighten all the way down just as it would be when the engine is running. Never had an issue

[kaineb]

Fwiw, I have never timed an engine using the special tool that pretensions the timing chain. I always, always put the tensioner in and tighten all the way down just as it would be when the engine is running. Never had an issue

Hey, what do you know about BMW's pal! :P Same results here with every one I've ever timed, 6 or 8'er. I would however spin and check a bunch of times. To get them to sit perfectly flat on all 4 camshafts can take a little patience. You dont want to have the force the jig down to get the camshaft perfectly aligned. That is without one side of it sitting off the head a little. They should slip on and off and fit perfectly flat on the head without altering the position of the camshaft. You will see.

[schpenxel]

Update:

I have a ton of pictures I'll post up tomorrow. In short, I got the crankshaft bolt off on both engines (thank to kaineb's method to hold the engine still while doing pull ups on a 6' cheater pipe...) and got both engines torn the rest of the way down

Good news:
-Got everything apart
-Heads are either brand new or have been through one hell of a cleaning at a machine shop or something--they look brand new
-I did not see any bent valves (why you ask? see below)
-Cylinders look fantastic
-Pistons are quite clean already
-I am quite glad I was talked into pulling the engine apart prior to putting it in.. see below

Bad news:
-Timing was off on bank 1 intake cam. Bolt holding the cam gear on was not torqued properly it appears--it was much easier to remove than the rest, too easy in my opinion.
-Three pistons have a chunk taken out of them. Yes, a chunk, in the same exact spot on all three. Looks like a run in with an intake valve (the strange thing is the busted up pistons are on bank 2, but the out of time cam was on bank 1.. strange I know). The cylinders still look great though, so I think the block will still work
-Found some trash in the oil pump screen--I am not sure where the parts came from. Looked like the screen did it's job.
-Someone was in this motor not long ago and had the heads off. They were a horrible excuse for a mechanic. The head gaskets looked brand new, the block deck had been cleaned already, and the pistons were spotless after basically one quick spray / wipe down with B12, which to me means someone else had already cleaned them
-Lots of bolts weren't torqued correctly, quite a few were about to fall out

So, looks like I have some reading to do. It sounds logical to use a few pistons out of my "old" engine, but I need to do some reading on how these engines are balanced, etc. before I decide what to do. I also need to figure out about honing alusil cylinders to see what I'd need to do there. I read something once before about some kind of special polish you use to hone these, but ultimately it can be done.

That begs the question do I pull the crank/rods/pistons out and spend the money for new bearings/bolts/machine shop work to polish and check everything prior to putting it back together? I need to sleep on this one. Bearings/bolts alone are somewhere in the $800 range for a full set. I think all of the rod/main bearing bolts are one time use bolts..

Here are two pictures real quick

Here are the good looking cylinders/brand new looking head gasket on bank 1




And here is a cylinder with a piece missing over on bank 2

[kaineb]

The cheapest way would be to swap your internals, bearing, crank, etc block to block. You will have to have the block checked, honed, cleaned, decked. Also will need new rings. If you get into a full rebuild you are looking at big bucks for the low end. Machine work skyrockets the price. Looks like you got a lemon, maybe contact the people with pics and try to get it worked out. Not sure what that is. That engine is garbage without allot of work and a ton of money, sorry bud.

[schpenxel]

The cheapest way would be to swap your internals, bearing, crank, etc block to block. You will have to have the block checked, honed, cleaned, decked. Also will need new rings. If you get into a full rebuild you are looking at big bucks for the low end. Machine work skyrockets the price. Looks like you got a lemon, maybe contact the people with pics and try to get it worked out. Not sure what that is. That engine is garbage without allot of work and a ton of money, sorry bud.

Sounds about right for my luck as of late!

Worst part is the cost of rings. They're about $150 per set if I remember correctly. Full set of bearings + bolts came out to something like $800. Higher than the average SBC rebuild for sure lol. Those rings are what's killing me. $1200 for a set of rings? Ridiculous. Does anyone know who actually manufactures them? Maybe I could buy them direct

Contacted seller, he's basically saying he's not a mechanic but paid a mechanic to check the engine, feels horrible about it, is the second time he's had this happen with this "mechanic" (albeit before on something cheaper than an engine) and is offering whatever parts he can pull off the cars he's parting out to make me happy. I only paid $500 for the engine, so while I want to tear into him, the reality is the heads alone are worth more than that.

Of course he doesn't have another engine to replace it right now

Still weighing options--do you know of any local machine shops that know how to work with these alusil blocks?

- - - Updated - - -

For anyone interested, I recorded breaking the crank pulley bolt loose on the "new" engine. It was not nearly as tight as the one on the old engine. The old engine I was literally in the air at the end of that breaker bar and it finally popped--I thought I had broken the breaker bar, or bolt one, but it ended up being the bolt coming loose



- - - Updated - - -

Update: Thankfully someone else figured out where the rings come from on this engine. Turns out you can buy an entire SET for $200. SOLD!

Thanks to Gostra on bimmerfest for this one!

Damon, the mileage on the engine is 145K. The body and interior on this car are flawless being from Georgia, and the price was only 4K for the car (see photos). I couldn't resist. Cylinders had a minute amount of aluminum removed and were then polished with Sun silicone compound to bring out the silicone on which the rings ride. I will post photos of the block in a few days. FYI: rings for this car are availble through Hastings for 1/10 what BMW charges, Part No. 2C5211 (Strandard). I tried without success to get the main bearings through Federal Mogul (who made the orginals as well the news ones I have) but they would not give me any information on the parts. I could not locate these size bearings from any of the major bearing manufacturers. They will probably be available in a few years. Valve stem seals have been replaced. Cylinders surfaces were flat. Couldn't get a feeler gauge under a precision straightedge so no machining was necessary.

- http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=703703

edit: I need to do more research and confirm this is actually the right rings for it. Rings for alusil engines have to be coated or something special like that--stay tuned. I'm not convinced these are the correct ones yet.

[kaineb]

The US blocks are aluminum with straight steel inserts because of the harsh fuel additives. T-Hoff does work on them. The Euro versions have an alusil coating since their fuel is more strict. I found a company that makes rings for the 545 / N62 engine but not the 550. The brand name escaped me at this moment but i have used their stuff its its a a step up from victor reinz, etc. Good quality.

[schpenxel]

The US blocks are aluminum with straight steel inserts because of the harsh fuel additives. T-Hoff does work on them. The Euro versions have an alusil coating since their fuel is more strict. I found a company that makes rings for the 545 / M62 engine but not the 550. The brand name escaped me at this moment but i have used their stuff its its a a step up from victor reinz, etc. Good quality.

The 545/745 has the N62 engine (I believe early early E65's had an M62, but all E60's had N62 on the V8's), not m62, so it is all Alusil, no steel inserts (all N62's are Alusil as far as I can tell--the M62's had a mix). The 550 got some improvements/more displacement but is the same basic engine

I found on the top ring a stamp that says "GOE B". I assume GOE = goetze, which = federal mogul, but I've gone through their catalog from cover to cover and it basically has every engine in there except the N62. I also dug through the Hastings catalog in more detail and am as confused as ever. I've emailed both companies to see if they can help.

I went through the Hastings catalog and used the number that was posted in another rebuild thread (2C5211) and that part number is listed under a listing for a 735i, 4398cc, 4.4l w/1.2mm top groove. I didn't know there WAS a 735i with a 4.4l engine, but I kept digging (perhaps a typo?). The size for the rings on this part number check out @ 92mm (correct for a 4.4 engine, not for a 3.4 or 3.5l one), and the ring thicknesses checked out too. I then checked that vehicle (by that vehicle, I mean a 2002 745i) on realoem to see what piston rings it called for. The part number there did not match the ones called out for on a 545i, however, it did specifically say they were an Alusil replacement piston ring set (I have read rings for Alusil blocks are coated differently than most normal rings so it is important to get ones designed for them). That gives me some hope they will work, but I need to start calling around to shops that work with German cars.

Honestly, I'm not sure. It's a cluster..

So, more research is needed I suppose. If all dimensions and coatings check out, I don't care what they were meant to go in, they should work. Unfortunately the guy who posted the part number for the Hastings rings is no longer active on the forum and I have not been able to get in touch with him, so I'm on my own. I wonder if I can order a set of Hastings rings for one cylinder and at least start there to see how they compare.

Does T-Hoff work on Alusil or only steel inserted blocks? Seems like they'd know how to work on Alusil if they do a lot of German cars--Porsche and Mercedes have been using those for a while now.

[kaineb]

Sorry i meant N62 but wrote M62, fixed. No your block does not have Alusil, they are steel inserts. Alusil was a coating that went on non steel cylinders as i remember. And yes, Goetze is the manufacturer i was thinking of and they are much cheaper, however no one makes aftermarket bearings as per the machine shop and BMW. I found the rings via google by doing a bunch of searching before.

[schpenxel]

I don't mean to offend, but I still think you are confused with the later M62 engines. I cannot find anything that says any N62 engines have steel liners. I also noted that the cylinders on both of the engines I have do not have a crosshatch pattern to them at all, but instead have the dull grey look that comes with Alulsil cylinders. My old engine has been sitting with the heads off (with no oil in the cylinders at all) for weeks now and there are zero signs of any rust. Half of that time it sat in the driveway, rain or shine, so I'm sure it wasn't 100% dry the entire time--I am almost certain that steel inserts would have started rusting by now, or at least had a little hint of rust starting to form

Here are some other things I have found:

M62:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M62

the M62 features Alusil cylinder liners^[1] (in markets where high sulphur fuel was sold) and a single row timing chain.^[2]

N62:
N62 Training manual, page 45 or 47 depending how you look at it:

Manual-7er-e65-12.pdf

Alusil Page.jpg

Crankcase
The crankcase has a one-piece “open deck” design and is made entirely from AluSil. The
cylinder walls are hardened using a specific procedure (exposure honing). Exposure honing
involves treating the cylinders with a special “soft stripping”. This removes the aluminum
from the cylinder surface and the hard silicone particles remain.

Straight off of realoem it has "alusil" in the description
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...50&hg=11&fg=10

My understanding is that while Nikasil is a coating that can go over Aluminum, AluSil is a mixture of Aluminum/Silicone (silicone added to the aluminum) when the block (or liner if you were making those) is actually cast. Then the cylinders go through a special etching process to get rid of some of the aluminum and bring out the silicone to give a surface hard enough to survive being a cylinder wall. There is a lot of info on some of the Porsche boards about how to do the etching process--pretty neat stuff. Sunnex AN30 seems to be the stuff to use for that process.