We need more build threads: 00 Z3MC SG/DBO

[robb1887]

Did you also swap LCA's or are you using your 97+ arms still with them? I did the brand new ones offered from bimmerworld (BW) that required the offsets, so I am assuming they just stock the 96- arms to be able to offer them for 95-99 and if you replace them on your 97+ you just need to add the offset bushings to compensate. I will say I am not very happy with how much work was required with the brand new arms and bushing to get them to fit together. The shoulders were the arm forgings stopped and the machined end that went into the bushing was too short and would not allow the bushing on the arm far enough to mount to the car. Nothing an angle grinder couldnt fix, but for a brand new "package" from BW I was not impressed and sent them an email about it.

[328 Power 04]

The current arms on my car are the arms that come stock to the M Coupe and M3 (96-99), which have raised caster. This is why I assumed you will have a hard time with the offset bushings. If you have arms meant for 95 M3, or non-M arms, then yes, offset bushing is fine.

[robb1887]

I assuming to have 95 M3 replacement arms since BW states they require the offset bushings for installation, I would not see why they would state it requires offset pushings for the 96+ arms (seems my years were off by 1 earlier). I think I will be fine come alignment time. If not BW will have quite a bit more earfull from me

[rf900rkw]

They jacked a bunch more camber into the Ms by moving the strut top back as far as they could, then pushing the lower balljoint forward. A bunch. This is why a M has the front wheel to the front of the wheel well. The 95 M3 was done with offset bushings. 96 and later was done by the arm itself. The '96-> M arms are not available from the aftermarket; OE BMW bagged only at an awesome price. To use the aftermarket arms, you have to revert to the 95 offset bushings.. Same results, but one won't get you to Pebble Beach.

[robb1887]

Thanks to USPS loosing a box of M calipers I am going another route with my brake rebuild. New parts are in the mail as of yesterday. Saturday is looking to be a nice day for car wrenching and I hope to have the suspension work buttoned up then. If the next weekend turns out to be warm enough as well I hope to have it "running" again.

Still on the "Work in progress list":
Tighten up/torque rear subframe
Install axles
Install rear coilovers
Reinstall parking brake
Tighten up/torque FLCA's
Install tie rods
Reinstall front knuckles
Remove front rotors

Brakes "to accomplish list"
Remove Calipers and break down
Prep/paint for rebuild
Recieve parts from mail and install
Rebuild calipers
Install IE SS lines
Full flush with Mobul600

Trailer ride to the race shop for an alignment.

Car should turn on a dime and stop on a penny when I finally get it buttoned up.... I cant wait.

Updated first post

[rf900rkw]

Trailer ride to the race shop for an alignment.

I have an app for that.

No, not the trailer ride...

[robb1887]

I appriciate the offer, but I have no way to get under the car under its weight to adjust the rear camber and toe (I'm pretty sure). I guess I could put it up on some ramps or somesort to get some ground clearance to get under it.

[328 Power 04]

I have an app for that.

No, not the trailer ride...

Details anyways?

[rf900rkw]

A set of digital scales --> Ride height, corner weights and squareness

A tramel bar -ish toe gauge --> Toe

Smart tools App on android. --> Camber and caster


And yes, changing the rear alignment would require jacking it up, guessing at how much to move which, then letting it down, settling it out, and measuring. Repeat

[328 Power 04]

A set of digital scales --> Ride height, corner weights and squareness

A tramel bar -ish toe gauge --> Toe

Smart tools App on android. --> Camber and caster


And yes, changing the rear alignment would require jacking it up, guessing at how much to move which, then letting it down, settling it out, and measuring. Repeat

I looked into a trammel bar, interesting, but what would be the best way to align the center of the car to the center of the bar, to make sure you're not accidentally setting toe on both wheels aimed to the left, or both aimed to the right? Even though you are at the same distance between the front of the front tires, and the rear of the front tires?

Is centering the trammel bar to the bottom of the tires enough? Possible interference due to camber settings? Or just using body (not entirely accurate)?

Just looking for best method, as most Z3's can only adjust front toe, and very slight camber. Unless there's other hardware installed.

[robb1887]

From a simplistic stand point. (since our Z's have crazy different track width)

Place car on flat level surface, chalk mark the floor at edge of each tire front and rear
Roll car forward, measure distances between front and rear to find "centerline"
Roll car back to original position
Math out distances from edges of tires to have square trammel bar based off centerline calculated
Set trammel bar

Garage align like a champion

[rf900rkw]

Centered really doesn't matter on the front. Or rather, centered only matters to getting the steering wheel absolutely straight. And since "straight" depends on the camber of the road and many other factors. It's not a concern.

Centered on the rear is what the whole "thrust angle" is about. It's a difficult thing to quantify, as it's difficult to determine what the reference point should be. Centerline of the body? Centerline of the parallelagram defined by the tire contact points? Again, you will never notice it unless it's extremely off. These are the cars you see crabbing on the road. With the confines of the Z3 adjustments (near none), I don't worry about it.

[robb1887]

Moar partz!

[328 Power 04]

I used to get a bunch of parts like that. Until one of the rooms at home had more parts than small BMW dealers... Lol a bit of a hyperbole, but it was nice rummaging through them and finding almost everything I needed for my new M Coupe. Funny how that worked out.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and I just have to post.. Today, while fixing 4 broken wires in the hatch wiring loom, I was curious what was behind the blank cover of the spot where the CD changer goes. To my surprise, someone added a BMW 6 CD changer to the coupe, and then put the hard to remove cover over it!! It wasn't included in the options of the car, so I was very very happy.

[robb1887]

Most all of this is missing parts replacement. The manifold nuts are in preparation of exhaust work that I hope to accomplish this year. Lamp sockets are for my projector retrofit project.

[robb1887]

Got the axles, rear sway, parking brakes, tie rods, and front knuckles in. Torqued up everything. Mufflers rear shocks/springs and the brakes to rebuild left before its back on the ground.





Waiting on the mail for brake parts.

Hopefully next weekend is the weekend, fingers crossed for good weather.

[Eson535]

Nice progress, looking forward to next weekend's updates

[robb1887]

Welp, my front caliper pistons are on back-order I found out Wednesday... 2-3 week delievery ETA (AWESOME!). Luckily the front calipers were not hanging up and I will still be able to drive the car after getting the rears overhauled and back together.

Headlight retrofit is nearing completion, I just have some more parts on the way that I screwed up the first time around to get the things back together. Then just have to verify the rotation and do a bit of touch up painting and final reassembly will be sometime next week.

Still hope to have it on the ground this weekend, tucking like a school bus on my stock roadstars with no spacers. But it will be on the ground.

[cfmistry]

I was under the impression that stock front roadstars wouldn't work with coilovers without spacers?

[robb1887]

Haven't tried fitting them yet. I will check them when I'm out in the garage next. The GC coils I have have really small radius springs though... I dunno

[cfmistry]

Haven't tried fitting them yet. I will check them when I'm out in the garage next. The GC coils I have have really small radius springs though... I dunno

Please keep us informed, I'm also going with GC coilovers and would rather avoid spacers if possible!

[BMWBergy]

I was under the impression that stock front roadstars wouldn't work with coilovers without spacers?

Never heard that before. Was this supposed to be a specific brand of coilovers that wouldn't work? I have TC Kline (they us 60mm ID springs), and there are no clearance issues with factory wheels, even with 235 tires and no spacers (ran this way for 6 years before moving up to the Dinan wheels).

[MudHut]

Very thorough build. I also now know who snagged up the license plate I wanted in Va.

Jay

[fmcfad01]

There are no issues with GC or TCK coilovers and roadstars.

[robb1887]

Weather looks "good" (rainy, but warm!) for tomorrow and this weekend. Hope to make some good progress this weekend.