No problem! I'm not sure I would go much lighter than I already am. I was getting some ticking from the valvetrain when I was running the 5w30 so I switched to 10w30 and that's seemed to take care of it. I didn't notice a temperature difference between the two either.
I honestly forget which exact Spal fan it is. I feel like I remember getting the thinnest one that wasn't a low profile to get higher CFM's. I'm sorry that's not very helpful, but I did have to trim the bracket in front of the radiator a bit in the middle and I didn't use a rubber gasket cause there isn't enough room or any need for one.
Nice, i do some iRacing from time to time. I normally sign up, play a bit, get frustrated, and then quite for six months. I will say that the Skippy on the latest tire model is fantastic. It's bringing me back to the game.
haha yeah when I first signed up, I felt like the crappiest driver in the world. It took a TON of patience, especially in the rookie class racing , but once I got into the higher classes, the racing quality was much improved. I think it's really helped in real-world driving too. If you ever want to run some skippy, let me know. Just search for "Jason Friday" and send me a message!
I'm in the process of switching out my steering rack, so while I was in there I decided to get rid of my old, worn out, flexible steering coupler and replace it with a solid one for better feel. I decided on the e34 coupler because it was only $43 from autohaus and the only modification I had to do was slightly file the column splines with a round file to get the bolt to go through the clamp. Simple.
Old
New
It's kinda hard to see, but I just put the coupler on and used the file to get me the clearance that I needed for the through bolt.
Still waiting on my z3 rack to arrive, but I'm excited!
Last edited by Jfriday11; 02-18-2016 at 09:01 PM.
That's a great Idea, I just replaced mine with the AKG bushing, but i may take this route as well. Well done sir!
1996 328i (m52B28US) OBD1 euro ZF 5spd. 3.23LSD conversion / Chem. PnP Head/ DINAN stg.2 CHIP/ VAC race valves/ S52 cams/ A/C delete/ fan delete/ Washer Fluid resv delete/ ARP head studs/ Cometic 140MLS / VAC Solid Engine/trans Mounts/ CAI / 2.5"Borla race exahaust/ NGK R spark plugs, M50 Mani, S50 Oil Res, Riot Racing HFTB, SAMCO Hoses, JBR FW, X-Brace, Mtech Front Bumper, RE RSMs, stoptech SS lines, Bilstein sports, H&R Race Springs, S52 Reinforcement plates, Kosei K1 w/ bridgestone RE960as, Brembo/stoptech slotted rotors, M3 Trailing arms, M3 Calipers, M3 Axles, ACS strut brace, weight reduction.
http://mbuild.blogspot.com/
Thanks! I was actually one click away from getting the solid AKG bushing, but then I thought it was weird that AKG didn't make or sell it anymore. So I did a little research and found one or two people say that theirs bound up on them which was enough to convince me to go the e34 route. Hopefully it's just an e36 myth and you don't experience that with yours!
I got a solid alum bush for myne. Won't that be better
i recently changed my steering rack. One side had oil all over the shaft(bad seal maybe). I also changed the coupler with the same rubber oem one. I heard about akg one but i had no idea of the e34 one. Looks much more solid. Nice update buddy!
Wow, nice find! I'll be ordering that on Monday!
e34 one is only $31 bucks. I have one sitting on the bench ready to go in once I get the subframe/oil pan back together
Thanks guys! I'm hoping it works well. And yeah, sorry Dan, it is indeed $31 for the part. I think it was $43 with shipping.
I picked up another set of wheels today from a fellow member. They're the TR Motorsport C2's in black. I wouldn't normally have gone with black wheels if I had the choice, but I figured for price that I got them for that I could live with it. The plan is to run some R7 takeoffs on these, rain tires on my Team Dynamics, and new R7's on the Apex wheels. This way my fastest tires will be on my lightest wheels.
I finally got the z3 steering rack in and took it out for a short spin up and down my street. The combination of the e34 solid steering coupler and the z3 rack made the car feel a million times more responsive or maybe it just felt that way because I really wasn't expecting that much of a difference (especially not at low speeds). Also the steering weight was a bit heavier and getting to lock comes noticeably quicker. Needless to say I'm super excited for the start of the season.
I also got the bimmerworld dual fuel pump kit installed which was actually really simple. Bimmerworlds instructions were really easy to follow and the pumps work great. Other than that, I got a couple of 225/40/17 Hoosier R7's takeoffs, replaced my leaky valve cover gasket, and some contingency stickers on.
I got a new power steering cooling hose/pipe because my old one was leaking. I didn't know, however that the e36 cooling pipe does not fit on the z3 steering rack perfectly so I had to do a little bit of bending to get it to mount properly. On the side opposite the steering shaft, there isn't a hole to bolt the cooling pipe to so I just folded the metal mount on the pipe under itself and zip tied it to the rack. Kinda ghetto, but it works so whatever.
These things are stupid wide for 225's. I know they're not mounted so they look a bit bigger, but in the background are my 255 hankook rs3's.
And stickerz
Next order of business is to acquire a trailer, get it dynoed, cross weighted, and aligned.
Last edited by Jfriday11; 03-11-2016 at 12:18 AM.
looks really good. Almost as excited to see your results as I'm sure you are. When is your first planned event? Are you already signed off for TT with NASA?
I've been telling people how under estimated the 225 Hohos are for years... no need to waste another +4 for 245's for TT, IMO.
Awesome!!! Looking good!! Maybe throw an Xbrace on it to protect the oil pan and give it some more strength.
Last edited by stealthbeam; 03-11-2016 at 02:29 PM.
1996 328i (m52B28US) OBD1 euro ZF 5spd. 3.23LSD conversion / Chem. PnP Head/ DINAN stg.2 CHIP/ VAC race valves/ S52 cams/ A/C delete/ fan delete/ Washer Fluid resv delete/ ARP head studs/ Cometic 140MLS / VAC Solid Engine/trans Mounts/ CAI / 2.5"Borla race exahaust/ NGK R spark plugs, M50 Mani, S50 Oil Res, Riot Racing HFTB, SAMCO Hoses, JBR FW, X-Brace, Mtech Front Bumper, RE RSMs, stoptech SS lines, Bilstein sports, H&R Race Springs, S52 Reinforcement plates, Kosei K1 w/ bridgestone RE960as, Brembo/stoptech slotted rotors, M3 Trailing arms, M3 Calipers, M3 Axles, ACS strut brace, weight reduction.
http://mbuild.blogspot.com/
Looks great!
Thanks guys!
I got signed off for TT this past November so I should be all good to go. Unfortunately, I planned a trip with the girlfriend April 13-17th before the schedule came out so I'll be missing the first Summit event, but I'm planning on doing some Track Daze and SCCA autocrosses before VIR with NASA in May.
Also I totally agree with you on the tires. I was hesitant going down to 225's, but I'm glad I listened to everyones advice because there is no way in hell I could fit 245's under my fenders in their current state (points penalty aside).
I wish I could, but it'd cost me 3 points that I already can't afford. I'll definitely do it once I go w2w, though.
I was signed up for DE3, then once I got my check ride for TT, I did DE4 for the rest of the weekend.
Just make sure you email them when you sign up for your next event that you want to get your TT check ride. That way you can do DE4 that weekend and be good to go for Time Trials for the following event.
How much camber are you running front and back? Im just curious. Got any tires for the C2s yet? I want to see how they look on your car. Very Mad maxish.
Currently I have -2.8 on the Front Right, around -3.2 Front Left, and -2.9 out back. Pretty weird camber setup, I know, but when I had my RS3's on there I had to run that much camber out back to prevent rubbing. Also my FR maxes out at -2.8 and my FL at -3.5, but I really have no idea why I had them setup evenly at -2.8 at my last event, but then my FL was getting eaten up so I increased the camber a little and it was much better. With the 225's I'm gonna aim for -3.2-3.5 up front and -2.7 out back if I can figure out the front end camber situation.
I have two takeoffs ready to go on the c2's, but I'm still trying to track down 2 more before I take them to get mounted. If you can help me find some, you'll be the first one I send pics to
So in an attempt to address my camber issue, I bought and installed the bimmerworld camber shims. The kit comes with 3 different size shims, .03", .06", and .120". Following the proportions on a chart that I found on this forum for shim sizes and their respective camber gains, I did some math and applied the necessary shims in attempt to get both sides of the car to max out at around -4 deg of camber figuring I could always dial it back from there.
Chart:
1.16mm = -0.5 deg
2.63mm = -1.0 deg
4.00mm = -1.5 deg
Bimmerworld Shims
.03" = 0.762mm = -0.328 deg
.06" = 1.524mm = -0.656 deg
.09" = 2.286mm = -0.869 deg
.120"= 3.048mm = -1.158 deg
RF camber maxed out at -2.8deg so I applied the .120" shim for a max of -3.95deg
LF camber maxed out at -3.5deg so that got the .06" shim for a max of -4.15deg
I'm eager to get the car aligned to see if my calculations were close. I can definitely tell there is a lot more camber on the RF now.
I cut a notch in the shim so I could just slide it up into place rather than disconnecting most of the kingpin from the strut.
Now I'm just waiting for my trailer to be built so I can get the car to the alignment rack and dyno!
Nice! Thats weird that ur FR was not able to get more camber. Hope its not a flaw in the coils. Looks like the shims will do the trick. Sorry buddy, does takeoff mean used tires?
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