Progress is a Slow Process e36 Track/Autocross Build

[Jfriday11]

Thanks for the great info guys.

alwaysinboost, I think that I would get bored if I wasn't at least trying to be competitive, so I think I'm definitely going to have to go with the Hoosiers. Although with all your track records underneath you, I can tell you're not gonna make it easy

The 323 did come with traction control and that was one section of the rules I wasn't sure how to interpret because C.4. says "modification of the BTM air intake/box, air filter location, air pipingto the turbo/supercharger/intercooler/throttle body/carberator. +1" And then C.5. says "Non-BTM, deleted, or modified/ported throttle body. +2"

I wasn't sure if it was just the intake TB that was included in that rule or if it was the intake and the ASC TB since the ASC doesn't serve any purpose except for regulating airflow in the case of low traction and you can disable traction control for no extra points. So in my interpretation I considered the elbow as air piping going to the throttle body since the TB that actually does something is still in place and unmodified. It might be a moot point and I will never be a lawyer, but someone telling me it's wishful thinking would be helpful!

I haven't looked into getting a dyno reclass. How does that work?

- - - Updated - - -

And yes, I'm definitely trying to make it up north to some events if funds allow. At the very least I'd like to get up to Watkins Glen and maybe Lime Rock and NJMP if I'm feeling crazy.

[alwaysinboost]

Thanks for the great info guys.

alwaysinboost, I think that I would get bored if I wasn't at least trying to be competitive, so I think I'm definitely going to have to go with the Hoosiers. Although with all your track records underneath you, I can tell you're not gonna make it easy

The 323 did come with traction control and that was one section of the rules I wasn't sure how to interpret because C.4. says "modification of the BTM air intake/box, air filter location, air pipingto the turbo/supercharger/intercooler/throttle body/carberator. +1" And then C.5. says "Non-BTM, deleted, or modified/ported throttle body. +2"

I wasn't sure if it was just the intake TB that was included in that rule or if it was the intake and the ASC TB since the ASC doesn't serve any purpose except for regulating airflow in the case of low traction and you can disable traction control for no extra points. So in my interpretation I considered the elbow as air piping going to the throttle body since the TB that actually does something is still in place and unmodified. It might be a moot point and I will never be a lawyer, but someone telling me it's wishful thinking would be helpful!

I haven't looked into getting a dyno reclass. How does that work?

- - - Updated - - -

And yes, I'm definitely trying to make it up north to some events if funds allow. At the very least I'd like to get up to Watkins Glen and maybe Lime Rock and NJMP if I'm feeling crazy.

I emailed the National TT director about the ASC throttle body delete back in 2013 and this was what he said:

"You can disable the ASC w/o a points assessment.

I believe that we have been assessing any changes to the secondary throttle body as +2 for throttle body. "

so basically you can unplug the TB and its a 0 point mod, but if you remove it then its +2. on my TTE car I have it unplugged because its a points build and I couldn't afford anymore points. On my TTD car, which is dyno reclassed, I have it removed completely. You might want to look into a reclass if you want to get some mod points back.

Good deal on the hoosiers for next year, the more competitive setups and people in the class the faster it will make everyone.

Don't let the track records deter you at all... records were made to be broken.


edit: missed your part about asking about a dyno reclass.

Basically what you do is email Greg G with your dyno sheet and min comp weight and he will assign you a new base class. It might be more favorable than your current base class or it might not... depends on a few things but bottom line is you have nothing to lose and you don't have to accept the dyno reclass if you don't want to.

I inquired about a reclass for my TTE car, but I didn't like the numbers so I decided it would be best to go with a points build to take advantage of the modified p:w ratio a sedan gets. ON my TTD car, however, the dyno reclass gets me 7*'s back with allows me to run hoosiers and reinforcements.

[BandarM3]

Awesome build thread. You've came a long way with your car. Definitely post up more track vids.

[Jfriday11]

Okay so if I understand correctly the amount of points that I could potentially get back from a dyno reclass would be based on how close or far away from the minimum hp/weight ratio (16.51:1) my car tests out to? If worst comes to worst I could always put the ASC TB back in, but obviously I would rather leave things as they are.

Awesome build thread. You've came a long way with your car. Definitely post up more track vids.

Thanks! I'll pull some videos off my external hard drive and post some up if my old ass laptop can handle it lol

[Zxc4]

There's more to the dyno reclass than just how close you come to the hp/wt. only Greenbaum has the formula.

[Jfriday11]

I gave into the temptation of black Friday deals and got the AJ Hartman e36 headlight duct and some Apex ARC-8 17x8.5 wheels from turner with their killer $50 off and free shipping deal. Won't be receiving the wheels for a while because they didn't have any more hyper silvers in stock, but that's alright seeing how I won't need them until March. I also picked up an AIM Solo from a member on here so I can start getting some decent/more reliable data than what I was getting from Harry's lap timer.

The install on the headlight duct was pretty straight forward. Drill three holes at the top and screw in the metal arm on the bottom right. However, in order to keep the corner light in, you have to make a bracket to hold it in. So I took an old bracket from something that I had taken off the car and I dremeled a notch in it for the lower guide on the corner light in a way that it could slide in there securely and so that the plastic tab would clamp on to the back side of the bracket.


Top View



And here's the AIM Solo. I got lucky because the RAM mount that I was using for my phone also worked with the Solo's bracket.



Next on the list is to take the side airbags and speakers out and replace my leaky steering rack.

[19Spec3]

Can you share how your mirror is attached? I think most of those are clamped to the rollcage but if I recall you lack one of those. Thanks!

[bmw328m52]

Very clean build. Makes me miss the old ITS/ITR days in SCCA but keep the updates coming!

[Jfriday11]

Can you share how your mirror is attached? I think most of those are clamped to the rollcage but if I recall you lack one of those. Thanks!

The mirror comes with the bracket pictured below and lines up perfectly with the sun visor screw on both sides. You'll also want to drill a second hole next to it otherwise you'll get a lot of vibration in the mirror making it pretty much useless.
I haven't been that happy with the mirror, though. It's positioned really high without the headliner and with my roll bar in the back, it's really hard to see people until they're right up on me, but that's mostly because of how low the top of the roll bar is. I think I'll try out the longacre convex mirror once I get a cage in there.

Very clean build. Makes me miss the old ITS/ITR days in SCCA but keep the updates coming!

Thanks! I'm trying to stay more active with the updates than I had been. I think it's super helpful for me and if it helps others trying to do similar things or to bring back old memories, that's even better

[19Spec3]

Thanks, so just some sheet metal screws into the visor things. Simple enough. The DE3/DE4 session with a million cars at Summit Point made me really want a convex mirror.

[Inflame]

Interesting that your Clubsports don't come with the added caster. Your part # 650-30-883.

These, P# 650-30-911 have maxed the caster.

[Jfriday11]

Thanks, so just some sheet metal screws into the visor things. Simple enough. The DE3/DE4 session with a million cars at Summit Point made me really want a convex mirror.

Yup! And yeah that session was pretty wild. It was a great exercise in special awareness.

Interesting that your Clubsports don't come with the added caster. Your part # 650-30-883. These, P# 650-30-911 have maxed the caster.

I'm assuming that the ones in the picture you quoted are for the m3. I've been kind of kicking myself over getting the non-m clubsports because from what I understand is that they're both the same price, but the m3 ones come with the shock mounted sway bar links and the caster maxed out. I ended up buying the shock mounted links anyway, but I could have saved $40 or whatever it was had I just gotten the m3 ones from KW.

[Inflame]

I'm assuming that the ones in the picture you quoted are for the m3. I've been kind of kicking myself over getting the non-m clubsports because from what I understand is that they're both the same price, but the m3 ones come with the shock mounted sway bar links and the caster maxed out. I ended up buying the shock mounted links anyway, but I could have saved $40 or whatever it was had I just gotten the m3 ones from KW.

That definitely makes sense. You ordered P# 352-30-811, which the manual shows your setup/oem caster, and P# 352-30-812 manual shows the maxed caster style.

[Jfriday11]

A couple small updates...

I picked up a set of 17x8.5 Apex ARC-8's from Turner when they were having their black Friday sale. I'm looking forward to feeling the difference between my 22 pound team dynamics wrapped in Hankook rs3's compared to the 17.2lbs ARC-8's with lighter hoosier r7 rubber.



Got a 3 layer OMP Tecnica Evo racing suit from rallynuts.com in the UK for a little additional safety. Their prices are ridiculous if anyone is looking to get a racing suit. I got this for about $875 including shipping, taxes, and a $100 customs fee. Here in the US the suit goes for $1300. Definitely worth taking a look at.



Also in the way of safety, I installed the Hard Motorsports battery disconnect kill switch. Install was super easy and everything is really well made. The panel was a bit heavier than I expected, but that's whatever.




At my last event in November I got some fuel starvation in T1 at Summit with about 3/8th's left in the tank so I decided to grab the bimmerworld fuel starvation kit. I've heard nothing but good things about it so I feel pretty confident that it will allow me to run the tank a lot skinnier. I should get around to the install this weekend.



The last thing I picked up recently is a pyrometer to poke people with

[stealthbeam]

Badass man!! How's the car doing with out the secondary air pump? Did you retune the car?? Keep us updated, I too need to do the fuel starvation kit

[alwaysinboost]

love the updates. very clean build, can't wait to see it in action.

[rstaylor25]

Dem wheels and that suit are soo nice

[Jfriday11]

Badass man!! How's the car doing with out the secondary air pump? Did you retune the car?? Keep us updated, I too need to do the fuel starvation kit

Thanks! It seems to be doing fine, but then again I've only idled it and ran it up and down my street. From what I understand, the secondary air pump is only used on startup when the computer detects under 60 degree ambient temps and the only ill effect is a perpetual check engine light and failed emissions which I luckily don't have to worry about anymore.

love the updates. very clean build, can't wait to see it in action.

Thank you! Should be a great season!

Dem wheels and that suit are soo nice

[stealthbeam]

Ahh OK, Great info, thanks for the heads up. I plan on running my headers soon so this info is greatly appreciated Keep up the great work!!

[Jfriday11]

So I've been meaning to getting around to installing the fuel starvation kit, but my e36 hood louver from VRaptor Speedworks came in and I was more interested in installing that than fuel pumps that I wont be able to look at

It comes flat so it's easy to mock up and outline your cuts.


Then I cut it up with my dremel. No special sexy cuts here. Just made sure they were ground down and smooth before mounting the louver.


Got it all stitched up.


And done! I was gonna paint it black, but after mocking it up, I thought bare aluminum looked pretty awesome so I left it.

[DrBobOh]

Just looked through this entire thread- so awesome. Everything has been done so clean and tidy.

[BandarM3]

Nice update! Will the hood louver help cool the car? Interesting design.

I noticed you had the TMS rear lower camber arms. So you went with the bushings instead of the rod ends. How you like them? Im still debating if I should upgrade my stockers. Did you notice a big difference over stock, by adjusting the rear camber?

[Jfriday11]

Just looked through this entire thread- so awesome. Everything has been done so clean and tidy.

Thank you! I'm a bit of a clean freak so that compliment is awesome. Although, you haven's seen underneath my car at the moment. It seems to be slow leaking from everywhere and it's driving me nuts

Nice update! Will the hood louver help cool the car? Interesting design.

I noticed you had the TMS rear lower camber arms. So you went with the bushings instead of the rod ends. How you like them? Im still debating if I should upgrade my stockers. Did you notice a big difference over stock, by adjusting the rear camber?

Yeah I guess a lot of e36 guys have started running this louver and they swear by it keeping the temps down. My engine and oil temps have been creeping up to around 215-220 on hot days so I'm hoping that this will help create good airflow. I also modified my radiator baffle today, adding aluminum sheets to the sides to help get the airflow through the radiator rather than just on it. If neither of these modifications help then I'll have to rethink my pusher fan/oil cooler/radiator setup which admittedly, isn't ideal.



As far as the Turner rear camber arms go, the biggest difference you're gonna feel is in camber adjustment. I'm not sure how much negative you can go, but it's definitely over 3.5 degrees. I can't really comment on the difference in performance as far as design goes vs stock, but the ability to adjust the rear camber accurately really improves performance and makes the investment worth it in my mind.

[BandarM3]

Awesome! thanks for the info.

Maybe a different oil weight can help keep temps down?

[TXBDan]

Is that a Spal low profile fan? Do you have the rubber gasket between in and the radiator? I'm thinking about running in that config, but i wasn't sure if it'd fit between the bracket and the front of the radiator.