Progress is a Slow Process e36 Track/Autocross Build

[stealthbeam]

Very nice, I just bought the 90mm stud conversion and I absolutely love it! Makes changing a tire much easier

[jakermac]

You'll likely still get some rubbing with that 1mm of clearance. I have about 2-2 1/2mm of clearance, and when the tire is gripping, there's enough flex in the wheel/hub/strut to allow very light contact/rubbing of the tire on the lower spring perch. I can easily correct this. You might want to look at slightly thicker spacers.

[Jfriday11]

You'll likely still get some rubbing with that 1mm of clearance. I have about 2-2 1/2mm of clearance, and when the tire is gripping, there's enough flex in the wheel/hub/strut to allow very light contact/rubbing of the tire on the lower spring perch. I can easily correct this. You might want to look at slightly thicker spacers.

Yeah I didn't actually measure it, but it's very little room. If worst comes to worst, I have a spare 2mm spacer that will definitely give me enough room so I don't have any rubbing with tire deflection.

[jakermac]

Well the tire is deflecting, but not because the tire carcass is flexing. By the time the rubber rotates 180 from where it was in contact with the ground, it has snapped back into it's original unflexed relaxed position. The rubbing will be due to wheel, hub and strut flexing.

[Jfriday11]

Well the tire is deflecting, but not because the tire carcass is flexing. By the time the rubber rotates 180 from where it was in contact with the ground, it has snapped back into it's original unflexed relaxed position. The rubbing will be due to wheel, hub and strut flexing.

Ah gotcha! Makes sense. I'll have to take some measurements when I get the chance. Hopefully it isn't as close as I'm picturing it in my head.

[Okemom333]

Car looks absolutely fantastic!!!!!! How do you like the H&R's, they look a little soft under heavy loading..

[Jfriday11]

Car looks absolutely fantastic!!!!!! How do you like the H&R's, they look a little soft under heavy loading..

Thanks! The H&R's were pretty soft under heavy loads, but they were very forgiving for learning how to drive on a track and also a good compromise for a dual purpose DD. I'm actually selling the whole cup kit for those who are interested.
I can't wait to see the night and day difference between the track oriented KW's and the H&R's.

[Frank@AchillesMotorsports]

Nice, you'll love the clubsports. You'll also be surprised at how much adjustability they have.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW Hopefully you have an invoice for the coilovers showing they were purchased in March.
If so you you can get $175 back through a mail in rebate!

Shoot me a message if you have any questions.

[Jfriday11]

Nice, you'll love the clubsports. You'll also be surprised at how much adjustability they have. - - - Updated - - - BTW Hopefully you have an invoice for the coilovers showing they were purchased in March. If so you you can get $175 back through a mail in rebate! Shoot me a message if you have any questions.

Ah bummer! I bought them in February. Oh well, I still got like $300 off, but an extra $175 on top of that definitely would have been great!

[tdm E36]

Hi Jfriday
Very nice job with this car. I like it.

Was wondering if your old H&R springs and struts setup was still for sale?

[Jfriday11]

Hi Jfriday
Very nice job with this car. I like it.
Was wondering if your old H&R springs and struts setup was still for sale?

Thanks! And yes, they are still for sale, although I haven't had the time to take any pictures of them or post an ad. PM me if you're interested!

-UPDATE-
I finally got everything done to my car just in the nick of time for my first autocross event yesterday. I had to change the tierods, pads, brake fluid, and also install a spal electric fan for some added cooling as I only had the engine fan on there which was no bueno.
I also put on a manual override switch for the electric fan in the cabin and made up some mesh inserts for the brake cooling ducts to keep rocks and debris out of there.
















The car felt amazing at the autocross as far as the suspension goes. Coming from the H&R Sport Cup kit to the Clubsports I was definitely not driving the car to its capabilities. The thing handles much more neutrally now and can take corners so much faster than it could before that I was kinda lost and taking weird lines out on the course, but I'm looking forward to getting a hang of the cars abilities later this month at Summit Point.

Also I did have a couple problems with the car... My brake pedal was super mushy, so I'm thinking something drastic is going to have to happen there and my windshield wipers were stuck in the on position so I'll probably have to replace the wiper relay.

Other than that, I had a good time turning slowish times. Here's a quick video:

[Jfriday11]

Haven't update this thread in a loooonggg time, but since I'm going to be transitioning into Time Trials with NASA next season, I think it might be helpful to myself and others to start it back up.

This past season I only got out to 3 events because finances were a bit tight and I had lots of work, but now everything is sorted and I'm finally in the position to take my car off the street after getting a truck to tow with. The goal for next year is to run in TTE and then the following year to race in GTS1 or 2 depending on what kind of power I can make with some go-fast mods.

The Base Trim Model 323is sits in the TTF* class with +7 points. This means that I have 32points to spend to be at the top of the TTE class. This is how the car sits with all the mods at the moment without tires:
+1 AA Intake and Bimmerworld ASC Delete
+2 M50 manifold
+3 DDM Tuning Catback Exhaust and M3 Midpipe
+3 3.23 LSD
+3 KW Clubsport Shocks
+2 KW Clubsport Springs
+2 TMS 30mm Front Sway Bar
+2 Massive BBK
18 TOTAL w/o Tires

Currently I'm running on 3 year old 255/40/17 Hankook RS-3's and this past event at Summit I was running low 1:29's. Prior to the event the left side tires were turning blue and all of them were hard as a rock so I applied some Formula V tire treatment to them and they became super soft again. I'm not sure if traction was as good as new, but it was a huge difference from when I was at Summit in June, knocking off about 2 seconds.

For next season I'm planning on getting some R-Comps to be more competitive with the top guy in TTE who is a full 2-2.5 seconds faster than me and seemingly everyone else, but am still unsure the best route to take. Here is what I'm looking at so far:

+13 Points: 235/40/17 Maxxis RC-1, UTQG 100 AA, 90W, Operating Temp 140F-210F, Section Width 9.6", Tread Width 9"
Pros: Very Strong Contingency Program w/ NASA (3-4 participant minimum), Long Life, Cheaper than Hoosiers
Cons: Not as sticky as Hoosiers
+11 Points: 225/40/17 Hoosier R7, UTQG 40 CA, 81W, Section Width 9.6", Tread Width 9"
Pros: Stickier for the same width, Decent contingency, gives me 3 more points to spend, they're hoosiers maaaann.
Cons: $$$$
+12 Points: 255/40/17 Hankook RS-3 V2, UTQG 200, 98W, Section Width 10.2", Tread Width 9.6"
Pros: They're wide, They last forever, I've been running them forever, 2 points left over.
Cons: Don't know if to go for width or stickiness

Any input that you all could give me would be much appreciated!

The other consideration is that I haven't had my car weighed or dyno'd yet. I calculated my weight by referencing all the things I've taken out and I should be at 2,807lbs with a full tank and 3,007lbs with driver and I can't see my car having more than 180hp so this would put me at 16.71:1 Power to Weight Ratio (just barely within the 16.51:1 requirement. Hopefully I'll be able to find some scales to borrow to get a better idea of how much weight I can take out or find a trailer soon so I can take my car to get weighed and dyno'd.

Also here are some small things that I have done since I last posted...
Bimmerworld ASC Throttle Body Delete Intake Elbow


Switched my 42lbs duralast battery to a 28lbs duralast battery with only 100 less cranking amps. Not really light weight, but lighter.


I was having trouble with my arms extending a bit too much going lock to lock so instead of moving my seat up and having my knees in my throat, I got a Sparco hub extender. Works great!


I also took out my headliner and sunroof and replaced it with the S2R carbon fiber sunroof delete panel. +20hp


I was having perpetual brake problems with them being super soft after a day at the track even after putting brake ducts in so I decided to go ahead and get a the Massive BBK and haven't had brake fade since then, but I think I should get the bbk for the rear to get the pedal pressure as hard as I'd like.


This stuff is amazing


I also took out the Secondary Airpump to simplify everything and free up weight and space.



The New Garage

[stealthbeam]

Very nice, How did you bypass the secondary air pump??

[Jfriday11]

Very nice, How did you bypass the secondary air pump??

I just put the TMS block off plates in there and it's good to go. I have a CEL, but since I'm not driving the car on the street any longer, I don't have to worry about emissions

[19Spec3]

Nice looking garage. I bet my 2 year old RS3's could use that FormulaV tire treatment. Hopefully I'll see you in TT next year.

[dkizerian]

Great thread, thanks for sharing. Are you still liking the seats? Also, what are the seat months you used? They look kind of like the macht shcnell, but different...

thanks

[Jfriday11]

Nice looking garage. I bet my 2 year old RS3's could use that FormulaV tire treatment. Hopefully I'll see you in TT next year.

Do it. For 50 bucks, it gives them a great second life and I think I used less than half of the gallon jug for 6 days of 3-4 coats so you definitely get your monies worth. Are you looking to be in TTE next year? It looks like there's going to be some great competition.

Great thread, thanks for sharing. Are you still liking the seats? Also, what are the seat months you used? They look kind of like the macht shcnell, but different...

Yeah I like the seats a lot. I'm probably going to replace the drivers seat with a halo seat for some more protection, but they're still very comfortable.
The floor mounts are from VAC and the side mounts are from Sparco. The Sparco mounts kinda flange out at the bottom so you can't move them as close to the trans tunnel as I'd like, so if I had to do it again, I'd get different side mounts.

[19Spec3]

Are you looking to be in TTE next year? It looks like there's going to be some great competition.

I have no clue which class I'll run -- wherever a Spec3 car fits. I assume I won't be competitive since I'm not focused on maxing out my points. I think of it as cheaper HPDE until I get a full cage in the car.

[hoki06]

Is that an M3 front bumper? If so, add +3 for modifying the front fascia per G.3) if I'm not mistaken.

[Jfriday11]

I have no clue which class I'll run -- wherever a Spec3 car fits. I assume I won't be competitive since I'm not focused on maxing out my points. I think of it as cheaper HPDE until I get a full cage in the car.

Gotcha. If you somehow do make it into TTE, you'd be running pretty competitively as your car sits with your high 1:28's.

Is that an M3 front bumper? If so, add +3 for modifying the front fascia per G.3) if I'm not mistaken.

hmmm not sure how I missed that, but you're right. I guess that makes my tire decision easy. Although the rules do say "(except as provided for in I.c.3), I.f.3), I.h.14) of the No-Points Modification list)," but the classification form only goes up to section "H"? Not sure what all that is about.
Would a headlight intake duct like what's on your car be included in modifying the front fascia?

- - - Updated - - -

Never mind found the answers to my own questions:

"3) Radiator upgrade/shrouding/fascia modification (drilled or cut holes/slots) that only provides increased airflow to the radiator or oil/transmission coolers (without aerodynamic or engine air intake improvement), and/or radiator core support modification/replacement.

3) Brake duct addition or modification, including electric fans (water sprayers are illegal). Two holes may be cut or drilled out of the front fascia for brake air ducts. Any hole providing improved intake air to the engine will be assessed one (1) point under C.4).

14) Headlamps, headlight covers, and fog lights may all be removed, and the holes may be covered with material that replicates the shape of the BTM light/cover, leaving the shape of the BTM fascia intact. Uncovered holes may be used for brake ducts. Any hole providing improved intake air to the engine will be assessed one (1) point under C.4)."

Now my question is since the M3 bumper allows better flow to the radiator and also has holes for brake ducts which the stock bumper doesn't have, would it still be assessed for points? I really don't know if there is any aero advantage with the m3 bumper vs. non-m, but obviously someone that has been in this situation would know better than I.

[hoki06]

Not having the stock black lip on an M bumper can be considered modifying the front fascia technically so changing the bumper cover to a non-BTM model would take +3 IMO. Ultimately, if you want to fully clarify it then you should email Greg (national TT director).

Now if you wanted to remove the fog lights and replace with ducts for the stock 325 bumper then I would think that falls under the I.f.3) no-point mod rule.

As for the headlight duct, that takes +1 under the C.4) rules (also stated in I.h.14 you quoted)

[Jfriday11]

Thanks for the input! I'll shoot him an email if I somehow end up over 39 points, but since I can afford the extra +3, I guess it doesn't really matter.

Also I think I'm probably going to have to steal your headlight duct and hood vent setups I could use a little extra airflow on through the radiator and intake. If you don't mind me asking, how did you secure the hood vent? Rivets?

[alwaysinboost]

Great thread. Don't know how I didn't come across this when I was doing my research, but I'm glad you resurrected it.

Looks like we're going to be competitors next year in TTE. MA region is great, lots of competition and everyone is very friendly/willing to help.

I am building a 325i to campaign in TTE and PTE. I have a build thread started on here, feel free to take a look and shoot me any questions you might have. I am pretty familar with the TT rule book and how to setup these cars.

As far as your questions about tire selection goes... there are a couple different ways you can go about it and, IMO, it comes down to what your ultimate goal is.
If you want to be competitive and beat the front running guys, then you'll need to be on hoosiers. Any other tire is going to be a compromise in performance. Hoosiers run very wide. A 225 R7 is going to be as wide as a 245 street tire if not wider. If winning isn't paramount, then you can run maxxis and more than likely with their contingency program still walk away with a tire or two each weekend as long as you podium.

As someone mentioned before, the M3 bumper is +3. I also noticed you have the intake elbow on there. NOt sure if the 323 came with traction control or not, but if it did and you removed the ASC throttle body then you'll have to take points for that too. If not, and you just replaced the factory intake elbow with an aftermarket one, then you should be OK.

Are you planning on making the trip up north to any Northeast events?

[hoki06]

Yep, evenly spaced out aluminum rivets. I painted everything black after the install to hide the rivets some.

[alwaysinboost]

Forgot to mention, have you looked into getting a dyno reclass? If not you should. Might help you get some of the points back you spent on power mods.