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Thread: 18 year old clear bra removal

  1. #1
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    18 year old clear bra removal

    In searching the last thread on this was 2 years or so ago, I think, so I am hoping a new product/method has emerged. I have an old yellowed bra, white cracks, awful looking. Mechanic was shocked it was still on, now impossible to remove. So far I've tried a high powered steamer, a hair dryer, WD40, and rubbing alcohol to remove glue. I had done some initially a fingernail full at a time, and the glue came off WD-40. Once I bought a steamer and used it, no results, then went to heat to learn the film comes off as slow as with no heat or steam, but now the glue underneath is literally baked on and nothing gets it off.

    Short of a body shop blasting it off and repainting the whole front end, any ideal or new innovations on this old dilemma?

  2. #2
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    I would try acetone and a plastic razor blade available at home depot. Test in a small area first and work gently.

  3. #3
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    No innovation on how to undo damage. An airbag will save your life but wont fix the car. You will need to have the body shop get down to the metal to remove the diffused adhesive/paint.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChristopherG View Post
    I would try acetone and a plastic razor blade available at home depot. Test in a small area first and work gently.
    You're on the right track, but I personally would save acetone as a last resort. Start with goof-off. Keep all liquids off plastic parts. A plastic razorblade will do wonders.
    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten” – Benjamin Franklin

  5. #5
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    Curious about the outcome as I was planning to remove mine as well.

  6. #6
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    still a work in progress, goo off and plastic razors and blow dryer work best, but it's incredibly slow and frustrating. Once it's off , though, I'll be happy to never have a clear bra on it again. Thanks for your help.

  7. #7
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    It was improperly used and early film. You should recognize that clear bra is not what it was 18 years ago and there are right and wrong ways to use it.
    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten” – Benjamin Franklin

  8. #8
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    If you mean ''Improperly used'' as in it should have been removed 16 years ago when it was only 2, I agree. I look forward to shiny paint and no plastic, if a rock happens to hop up and scratch the car that's what touch up paint is for. I equate the whole thing with keeping plastic on your sofa.

  9. #9
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    I'm not being confrontational. But it's not meant to be used for 16 years. Even newer films will carry a 5~10 warranty. If an engine blows up because someone used oil for 20k miles before changing it's not the oils fault.

    Though, some people just don't like the concept of ppf and there's nothing wrong with that. But it being problematic after overuse is not due to the film being bad.
    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten” – Benjamin Franklin

  10. #10
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    Both my e46s have clear bras. Ones a 2004, other 2005. Both had them at new. Both look great after 100k.

    Can't tell it's there unless you look close at the car. My girlfriend didn't even know my 2004 had one after owning it for 2 years until I pointed it out to her.

    My point being that these glue and films have come a long way since the early 1990s.

    2005 E46 330 ZHP Imola Red
    2004 E46 325 M56 Steel Metallic Blue - Sold

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jean-Claude View Post
    I'm not being confrontational. But it's not meant to be used for 16 years. Even newer films will carry a 5~10 warranty. If an engine blows up because someone used oil for 20k miles before changing it's not the oils fault.

    Though, some people just don't like the concept of ppf and there's nothing wrong with that. But it being problematic after overuse is not due to the film being bad.
    Yes and thanks, I wish the prior owner knew it, car was garage kept it seems, no rust on chassis, too bad they didn't read the film warranty.

    Stephen, well you're still in the 10 year period, so that sounds like it's to be expected it would still look great!

  12. #12
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    I guess so lol.

    Your thread makes me want to have it replaced soon just so it hopefully doesn't get baked on.

    I've called a ton of shops around and noobs seems to do it where I live

    2005 E46 330 ZHP Imola Red
    2004 E46 325 M56 Steel Metallic Blue - Sold

  13. #13
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    Have you tried proper adhesive remover? Goof-Off can be found just about anywhere and 3M makes some really powerful aerosols that won't harm clear coat.

    Baked on 2 decade old adhesive will be a slow process to remove, so have some patience and use the right solvent for the job and not just what you have on hand. You may want to shop at an industrial supply store instead of Walmart; they're not cheap but they have stuff you didn't even know existed.

  14. #14
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    3m has a specialty adhesive remover that works better than everything else. plastic razor blades do work for stuck on bra removal

    I just did a corvette with a 15yr old bra that was sitting outside in vegas for a long time...25 hours to remove it and the leading edge wouldnt release the glue no matter what so I had to sand it off. To say that was a nightmare and very frustrating would be an understatement. 1?4" pieces is how it all came off. The light section alone (flip up lights) took 1.5 hours to remove completely. Then add the 15 hour correction on the whole car...wasnt a fun job!

    if your film to date is over 8 years old, you are going to be in trouble. I did a CTS removal and it was the same senario with just 6 years in the sun outside 24/7. Todays film is a little different and much better! I would expect new film to last.

  15. #15
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    Eric, I hear ya on the 25 hrs, for sure. So update is winter has ended, back on the case! I compared the $5 Goo Gone with the $11 better stuff, the better stuff won, pictured below. I also added a blown up crop of the whole thing at the start, and where we are now, and steps how to make this process a bit less arduous.
    p_01011.jpg
    First the before.
    p_00055.jpg

    So up until yesterday I had only the left corner piece on fender and a corner of 'panel 1' of the 3 across the front done. Yesterday I got the other corner and panels 1 and 3 done, cutting out and leaving the center for another day soon. (and for temporary uniformity sake) The results are fantastic as all the deep scratches seen in film in pics 2 and 4 left no marks in the 19 year old paint below, really brand new underneath. The film line that remain's I'm confident will buff out when I have that done. So now she looks like this.
    p_01012.jpg

    p_01015.jpg

    As that only took 4 hrs here's my system, if you will.

    Instead of the plastic razor blades I used the plate of a battery compartment off a remote, 3" wide. It has the same smooth strong edge as razors, I was careful not to chose a credit card or license as too coarse. Have on hand a sponge, a small bucket of water with car wash, dry lint free cloth, above contractor spray, and an electric steamer.



    1. Steam small area, place nozzle at angle to plastic and spray back side to side, touching plastic. You'll see it fog.
    2. Quickly take plastic blade and scrape heated area from top down standing behind. (from hood toward grill) An actual leaning in and back and forth rocking of the blade does wonders. Some scrapes take our a whole 3"x 5" strip!
    3. As you expose area of glue add spray to it. It help seep under the film line for next scrape.
    4. Repeat until of the 'goal area' is off.
    5. Spray area completely, use sponge and soapy water to catch and wipe unwanted areas and catch drips off headlights. Wait 15 mins.
    6. The glue has phases, phase one I call the ''leather'' phase, thick, rough, and mean. Hit area again with spray and in same downward motion re-scrape with blade. After each scrape pull glue wad off blade, discard.
    7. Wipe clean with sponge.
    8. Now you're at the "ghostly island" phase. The spots that are faint but wont come off with a sponge alone. Respray and wait 15 mins, they sponge off. On stubborn spots spray again and use blade, when wet only, and sponge clean.

    Hope this helps the next guy, final pics when finished!
    Last edited by Jimscar; 05-12-2014 at 12:42 PM.

  16. #16
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    Fin' !

    Again the before
    p_00055.jpg

    And now, after 6 hrs today finishing the middle section and around the grills...
    p_01025.jpg
    p_01027 (2).jpg
    p_01029.jpg

  17. #17
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    thats actually pretty impressive.

    i was certain even if you did get it all off the glue would have etched into the paint and it wouldnt really be saveable. looks much much better
    Check out my details and paint corrections!

    www.theautospallc.com

  18. #18
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    Well done. Removing one that's 3 years old was a beeotch, so I can't even imagine.
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  19. #19
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    Thanks gents! Yeah I was really scared of the big yellow cracks in the film creating such marks, they did, but it was all glue and rubbed out. Amazing how well it protected the original paint, there's micro scratches from me taking it off, should buff out when I have it done. I've owned new cars that were pretty nice, this car is going to cost as much when it's over (ha) but I've never gotten the compliments this car gets. It's the classic E38 character, I love it more than the new 7's body, or any since 01.

  20. #20
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    Hi Jimscar,

    Very nice work on your removal. I am hoping to achieve the same result when I begin removing my baked on bra. Before I begin with your method, I was wondering if you could clarify on what kind of electric steamer you used. I am confused as to where to get one of these...

    Thanks!

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