MZ3 OEM strut mount reinforcement plates go on with GC Camber plates?

[M3loco]

About to install the Ground Control Street Camber plates. Do I have to also put in the OEM reinforcement plates?

Thanks in advance!

[SunzOut]

Yes

You may have to cut them to allow full movement of the camber plates

[M3loco]

WOW, for real?

Is there some sort of diagram/picture that shows the details of the cut?

Thanks...

[f50nut]

WOW, for real?

Is there some sort of diagram/picture that shows the details of the cut?

Thanks...

Depends on the camber plate. Minimal cutting required with Vorshlag plates.

Rest the reinforcement plate on top of the camber plate (out of the car) and test out the full range of camber adjustment. You'll probably have to cut a notch out the lip of the reinforcement plate ~1" wide. Pretty quick and easy job if you have a small grinder or cutting wheel.

[M3loco]

RGR,, that will help.

Thanks!

[Cloudbase]

Richie, I'm doing this as we speak. Here's the model I followed to get full range.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post11766111

[f50nut]

Richie, I'm doing this as we speak. Here's the model I followed to get full range.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post11766111

That's interesting, my plates didn't require any modification to the hole in the center. I had to trim the outer lip which can't be seen once the plates are installed.

[Telecomtodd]

Mine did not require cutting. Nice plates.

[Cloudbase]

It buys like the width of a socket wall if that.

[M3loco]

Richie, I'm doing this as we speak. Here's the model I followed to get full range.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post11766111

Thanks Alex!

Are you doing CG's on the Coupe?

[SunzOut]

Richie, I'm doing this as we speak. Here's the model I followed to get full range.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post11766111

You don't need to go that far....
I think I removed a couple of inches from the outer lip and an inch from the inner lip.

I'll try and grab a photo.

If you put the plat and strut in place (just hang from the three top nuts) and then try the range of camber adjustment, you will be able to see what material need to be removed.

[Cloudbase]

I have GC's on the track car. These are TC Kline's w/ Vorshlags for someone else.

[PbFut]

OEM plate is a must. You will fatigue the tower mounting holes without. The amount of camber you gain from cutting the OEM plate would be very small. You will get more camber adjustment if you do not push the caster setting all the way back. Like most everything, it's a compromise based on the higher need. In my case with the Vorschlag plates, middle caster, and max camber setting was the best option. I got an extra 3/4 degree of camber. You loose a small amount of dynamic camber but the net result is a gain. Cutting the oem plate may get you an 1/8, if that.

[z3papa]

I did not have to go that far either but found it was beneficial to notch the top a bit and adjusted my cuts on the bottom based on what it took to have full movement. I always wondered whether it would just be more beneficial to weld the reinforcement plate in place once you got it trimmed. In any event, it's definitely a wise investment.

[fmcfad01]

I had to cut them very significantly for the Vorshlag plates. You can see some pictures of the strut towers here:
http://imgur.com/a/kS2XI

I'd say about 40% of the ring had to be cut out, pretty close to half.

[buhx2]

OT, but did you need extended bolts to get your strong strut in place with your camber plates?
Mine are too short to thread in the strut bar.

[fmcfad01]

OT, but did you need extended bolts to get your strong strut in place with your camber plates?
Mine are too short to thread in the strut bar.

I forget. I believe I had that problem back in the day on my old coupe with tc kline camber plates, but not with the vorshlag ones.

Randy Forbes sold longer bolts welded to the tc kline frames.

[buhx2]

Yeah, I've got the TC Kline plates, so that's why I'm running into that problem.
Just going to try and source some longer bolts from the hardware store I guess. Either that or go back to OEM strut mounts.

[PbFut]

You have 2 choices. Longer bolts or e46 stepped collar nuts. longer bolts are easiest if you can weld them to the somewhat u shaded piece. If not, it's going to be a bitch getting them in place. The stepped collar nuts are what I used back when all this stuff was new on the market. You need to drill the strut bar ring mount holes slightly larger for the step on the nut. Also shave a couple mm off the step of the nut or it will bottom out on the tower. I've used this method 10 yrs and no problems with settings slipping. Even with 295 A6 or radial slicks on the front.