Rear wheel bearing help

[93 E34]

Changed the rear passenger side wheel bearing 93 5251 auto. Before the change the rotor was rubbing about an inch from the top on the the brake carrier due to the play in the hub from the bearing i assume. Change the bearing and put it back together now the new rotors rub worst than the old one, the pads also rub now too. Does this mean i didn't get the outer hub pushed all the way back in or could the cv shaft be damaged?
Thanks in advanced!

[3axap]

The CV shaft has absolutely nothing to do with the alignment of the hub against the brake carrier. When you installed the new bearing, you should have seen that the bearing is sandwiched between the outer and inner hub pieces. I think your theory about the outer hub not being fully seated in the bearing is a valid one. When you tightened the nut that bolts the inner hub on, did you use a torque wrench? There is a reason why that nut is extra tight

[93 E34]

The CV shaft has absolutely nothing to do with the alignment of the hub against the brake carrier. When you installed the new bearing, you should have seen that the bearing is sandwiched between the outer and inner hub pieces. I think your theory about the outer hub not being fully seated in the bearing is a valid one. When you tightened the nut that bolts the inner hub on, did you use a torque wrench? There is a reason why that nut is extra tight

Thanks 3axap,
My wrench only went up 150 and the book said 175-200. So i'll have to take the clip off loosen the nut push the outer hub in more, tighten the nut put a new clip on and torque, or do should I take the inner hub off and do it?

[moroza]

Noooo! Do *NOT* use the collar nut to seat the outer hub fully. You may (as I did) destroy the nut and hub flange threads and have to press it out again! You have to press the outer hub with a press (or at least a BFH, but I didn't advise you that), then tighten the nut.

[3axap]

Moroza is right. I used the Big Freakin' Hammer method to seat the outer hub with the control arm off the car. It took quite a bit of force. If the control arm is still on the car, I'm not sure how you can use the BFH method without damaging the bearing. You really need to support the center bearing race as you drive in the hub. There are tools out there to do it on the car properly though. Maybe someone on the forum is willing to rent out theirs.

[demetk]

I can rent mine or maybe build your own.

[93 E34]

Thanks fellas.

[Binjammin]

Noooo! Do *NOT* use the collar nut to seat the outer hub fully. You may (as I did) destroy the nut and hub flange threads and have to press it out again! You have to press the outer hub with a press (or at least a BFH, but I didn't advise you that), then tighten the nut.

You're half right about this. The hammer part is absolutely incorrect.

Moroza is right. I used the Big Freakin' Hammer method to seat the outer hub with the control arm off the car. It took quite a bit of force. If the control arm is still on the car, I'm not sure how you can use the BFH method without damaging the bearing. You really need to support the center bearing race as you drive in the hub. There are tools out there to do it on the car properly though. Maybe someone on the forum is willing to rent out theirs.

I can rent mine or maybe build your own.

Jim, that tool is exactly right. Under no circumstances should the hub be hammered back into the car. When installing a hub the inner race on the backside of the bearing needs to be supported, or BOTH inner races will be able to move, and that can very quickly crush the bearing cage inside the bearing, leading to almost instantaneous bearing failure. There's no proper way to support a bearing race for the impact of a hammer, do NOT do it.

Look at Jim's tool above, it supports the inner race while pulling the hub back in. It's the same way you'd support the bearing with the trailing arm in a press. You shouldn't be able to destroy a nut like moroza says, but since he managed to do it I suppose anything is possible. If you're forced to go that way, lube the hub shaft and put a washer under the nut to support the inner race.

[moroza]

Yeah, I didn't have the outer hub in all the way, reassembled, noticed the wheel wobbling, tried to tighten the collar nut to seat it fully. I had to buy a new bearing, outer flange, inner flange, collar nut, and lock washer, take off the trailing arm and do it all over again. Now it takes me about an hour per side

I will take this opportunity to enthuse about how much I like having a 20-ton press and a selection of large sockets, sections of pipe, and other scrap metal to work with. When set up properly (mostly a question of the right-shaped metal sleeves and stuff), a press is a *very* satisfying tool.

[katit2]

Ready to do this job. Pictures don’t show for me. I checked all DIY and removing old bearings will not be a problem.

I plan to make special tool to support inner race while pressing outr flange in but don’t understand what it should look like. I don’t want to use BFH. Can someone post picture of correct tool to press outer flange in?

[demetk]

I built this with a piece of tubing from an steel adjustable column that I bought from home depot.









The pipe connector in the last pic isn't metric but I was able to get a couple of threads onto the stub axle.

Let me know if you have any questions on it.

[katit2]

The pipe connector in the last pic isn't metric but I was able to get a couple of threads onto the stub axle.

That's it. This is what I was wondering about. I ordered M27x1.5 tap. Will machine adapter for this. Now that I know what it should be..

[demetk]

That's it. This is what I was wondering about. I ordered M27x1.5 tap. Will machine adapter for this. Now that I know what it should be..

Cool. If you make one let me know if you can make one for me too.

And that rusty thing in those pics is the old bearing race which came in handy.

[katit2]

rb_axlestub_out.jpgrb_bearing_out.jpgdc5689cs-960.jpg

I took one side apart today. For disassembly, there is nothing to save, really. Slide hammer from Autozone worked great for both outer hub and bearing. There is nothing to worry about and there is nothing to save there. That part is no problem. See 2 pics of slide hammer attached to axle stub and second variation wich I used to get bearing out.

For assembly I'm going to come up with 2 tools:
1. Metal disk shaped to press bearing in.
2. Tube which will be on a back.
3. Disk on a back which will close that tube
4. Adapter to screw on axle stub which can be pulled (see above what demetk came up with and see attached pic of factory tool)

If you make one let me know if you can make one for me too.

I will post my final solution and you let me know if you want this or not, ok?

[katit2]

This is my sketch with dimensions. Ordered materials(speedymetals.com - love it, but shipping is a killer). My idea is to have tools for pressing bushing in and for "drawing" stub axle in. All without hammering anything on a new bearing.

rb_tool.jpg

[katit2]

At this point I'm done with removing bearing and installing new ones. Still waiting for some materials to make tool which will help with axle stub installation.

Bearing inner race removed with puller from Autozone.
Removing second bearing wasn't as easy, slide hammer did not work(it does work on pulling axle stub out), so I had to use piece of PVC and tool I rigged from other tool I got for subrframe bushings.

Installing bearings was easy:
1. Freeze bearings for a day.
2. Clean carrier really good. Heat it with heat gun so it's hot to touch. Lube with synthetic grease to aid bearing install and prevent corrosion.

Then bearings went in ~1/3 - 1/2 with bare hands. Finished by pressing in using rod and old bearing to push on outer race.

So far everything happening without any hammering on new parts.

P.S. Tip: If you replace locking washer on a back (which you should) - don't bother with trying to pry old one out. Using 32 socket and impact wrench will take nut off together with washer no problem.

IMG_1892.jpgIMG_1924.jpg

[katit2]

Ok. All assembled. I made 2 pieces: Tube and threaded adapter with M27x1.5 to grab onto axle stub.
Worked like a charm. Metal washer that goes on a back doesn't make any difference, I didn't bother to make something special, just used part of subframe bushing toolset.
I use 9/16-18 threaded SS rod, bought couple so I have it for next "tools". I also machined 1 nut to make it only 4 threads or so, it goes inside my adapter.

Pictures should explain how it works. Step 1 - pulled axle stub in, Step 2 - pulled inner axle in.

HINT #2: To install new locking washer - just use 32mm socket and hammer it in. Works great.

IMG_1934.jpgIMG_1935.jpgIMG_1936.jpgIMG_1938.jpg

[q20v]

Thanks for posting these details. I just ordered a couple rear bearings the other day but won't get to installing them until the spring.

[93FIM5]

If you guys aren't as industrious as Katit2 we have these along with several other tools for working on the rear subframe for rent and for sale.

Stub_Axle_Puller by 93FIM5, on Flickr

Stub_Tool_Break_Down_1 by 93FIM5, on Flickr

Sneezy_WB_In_1 by 93FIM5, on Flickr

image by 93FIM5, on Flickr

-Greg