Project Hellrotbox E36 328is LS1 swap

[jai5]

Perfect! That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. Thanks.

As of last night:

Also changed the pilot bearing (second time) and...the frost plug behind it. For anyone else changing the throwout bearing, do NOT try to pull the throwout bearing using internet tricks, there is a frost plug (GM calls it Welsh plug) behind the bearing that WILL get pushed in if you're not careful. Use the right tool.

Question: Where are you guys venting the fuel vent line? I bought a small fuel filter, just not sure what the best location is to vent the line. I've deleted EVAP.

[BCOM320i]

Dont worry about venting. Simply get the Corvette Fuel filter. It has the regulator built right in. On that unit there is only one output on the engine side so I simply just cut the bmw return line down to where it moves up to the tank at the back. I also capped it off so no spiders make a home up there.

[jai5]

Wait..what? I'm talking about the blue line that comes from the tank, it usually connected to the carbon canister. You capped it off? How will the tank release its pressure?

I have a corvette fuel filter and the fuel feed and return lines are all hooked up.

Edit: you may not have had this line on your 1992 (obd1) e36.

[bimerok]

If you not hooking up EVAP staff, you can just cut it in the area around the FPR, so it is not too close to the hot headers. I doubt you'll find a spider that will survive or want to live in your gas vent tube

[TipsyMcStagger]

Also changed the throwout bearing (second time) and...the frost plug behind it. For anyone else changing the throwout bearing, do NOT try to pull the throwout bearing using internet tricks, there is a frost plug (GM calls it Welsh plug) behind the bearing that WILL get pushed in if you're not careful. Use the right tool.

Do you mean the pilot bearing in the crankshaft?

Tipsy

[jai5]

Do you mean the pilot bearing in the crankshaft?

Tipsy

Yea, the pilot bearing. We decided to use the "grease trick" (look it up) because it's apparently very easy to do before using the tool. And the pilot bearing instead got PUSHED in a bit (sign that the frost plug is now damaged). It's a good thing we looked it up and found out there's a frost plug behind the pilot bearing. But it wasn't a big deal because the engine had to come out anyway so we dropped it in and then changed it now that it's out again.

I installed the JTR motor mount frame rail inserts last night:

Pretty straight forward, drill, line up insert with threaded rod (included with kit) and screw it in.

I also picked up the driveshaft this morning.

And Thanks bimerok, that's what I was thinking about doing as well just wondered if anyone had a "better" location for it.

[TipsyMcStagger]

Yea, the pilot bearing. We decided to use the "grease trick" (look it up) because it's apparently very easy to do before using the tool. And the pilot bearing instead got PUSHED in a bit (sign that the frost plug is now damaged).

Yeah, that grease method always seemed a bit sketchy to me. A blind hole puller is definitely the proper tool for the job.

Tipsy

[BCOM320i]

If you not hooking up EVAP staff, you can just cut it in the area around the FPR, so it is not too close to the hot headers. I doubt you'll find a spider that will survive or want to live in your gas vent tube

This is what I meant. Although I cut it off near where all the lines go up to the tank. i took the cap off so we will see about those spiders...

[jai5]

No major update from last night. Opened up the shifter hole a bit more, cleaned up the nubs I cut off the transmission, brake booster is ready to come out and massaged the tunnel around the entrance a bit. I'm picking up a bunch of parts tomorrow and hoping to have first start Sunday.

I have a somewhat simple question, how are you guys fishing wires from the engine bay to the inside of the car? I need to run the reverse light wire (car is an auto) to the shifter area. I reassigned one of the wires on the x20 plug for it, but I'm not sure what's the easiest way to run them in. OR are you somehow able to easily determine which wire is from the x20 from the driver side kick panel?

[jai5]

First start!!!!

Few problems:

1) How do I jump that stupid neutral safety switch on the auto range selector, took us a while to figure out why we weren't getting power on pin 15 when cranking
Edit, does this make sense, connect the Grn/Gry wire with the Brn/Blk (top right).


2) What does the second post/terminal do on the power distribution block on a stock e36:

I had my starter and power for the CurrentPerf fusebox hooked up to it and after the first crank, it stopped giving me 12v, where is the fuse for it?
Edit: Referring to this fuse link here:

[BCOM320i]

Sound pretty good. Can wait to see this on the road around town.

Right now I jump pin 5 and 7 on the connector with a small 12 or 14 gauge jumper (a wire with both ends stripped); I intend to resolve it with either a toggle switch or the E36 clutch switch. So you would be correct to cut them and splice them together if you no longer want it switched.

The second battery terminal is a fused link for 12V B+ rated at roughly 50 Amps. Is supplies 12V constant to the DME, EGS, IGN RLY, and fuel pump relay as shown in the diagram you put up. I used it, and the BMW 12V Constant splices (Solid Red) to provide constant fused power where required by the GM side.

[jai5]

Thanks!

I'm not sure if I'll be able to use that...50amps may not be enough for the CurrentPerf fusebox, it powers the ECU, Engine electronics, Fans, Fuel pump.

Hmm.

The AC compressor bracket was also shaved down 1/4" and I'll post pictures of it sometime this week, but there is lots of clearance now. Also put in a 190e brake booster, no pics yet but lots of clearance there as well!
Here it is before we put the motor in:

Perfect fit! Had Paul (BRAAP) modify it to work with the e36.

Got the wheels back from the polisher:

Cleaning up wiring a bit..

I noticed that I can't fit the BMW junction box with the fuel rail covers Also there's lots of slack in the harness around the ECU area. Not sure how I'm going to clean that up yet.

[BCOM320i]

I cut out the old fused link and put in a car Audio fuse rated at 60Amps. You could do similar but as your circuits are fused it shouldn't matter where the power comes from.

Great update. Hurry up and get this thing on the road!

[jai5]

No pictures but following is done since last update:

- Rotors and pads all around
- Clutch line hooked up to master
- Brake booster vacuum line connected
- Water pump tapped for steam vent line
- Diff filled up with fluid

We started the car up again yesterday and it was surging reallly badly Hopefully just a vacuum leak somewhere or caused from missing some sensors (IAT, O2s).

Wish I didn't have to do that thing people do 40 hours a week to pay for these projects...

[Inflame]

Right now I jump pin 5 and 7 on the connector with a small 12 or 14 gauge jumper (a wire with both ends stripped); I intend to resolve it with either a toggle switch or the E36 clutch switch. So you would be correct to cut them and splice them together if you no longer want it switched.

Still have to do this even with the LS Swap? I think I buggered those wires after removing my transmission and cleaning up some wires in the interior... Am I screwed? haha

I'm looking to completely eliminate the EWS and all that mumbo jumbo underneath the passanger side dash, is that possible? Wiring isn't my forte but I know enough to do the job. My car is strictly a track car, so I really only need a quarter of the wiring you guys do.

[jai5]

Still have to do this even with the LS Swap? I think I buggered those wires after removing my transmission and cleaning up some wires in the interior... Am I screwed? haha

I'm looking to completely eliminate the EWS and all that mumbo jumbo underneath the passanger side dash, is that possible? Wiring isn't my forte but I know enough to do the job. My car is strictly a track car, so I really only need a quarter of the wiring you guys do.

If you are deleting EWS completely, you probably won't have to worry about jumping it. Take a look at the diagram posted above.

You'll have to connect the Blk/yellow wire going in to the EWS module to the Blk/yellow coming out. That should be it.

[Inflame]

I have a 95,so I believe it may be a bit different. I'll take a look at it.

[jai5]

So started sorting the front end out a bit yesterday.

I decided to NOT label any of the BMW wires when I took the front end apart, so I don't know where a lot of these wires go....


No idea where this goes:

Or this:


Also, I noticed the oil dipstick hits the hood...is this known?

[BCOM320i]

The connector in the last pic is the coolant level sensor on the bottom of the expansion tank.

The second last picture should be for the AC compressor

If you install the harness its much easier to see where it all plugs in.

[jai5]

Got the cooling system all hooked up.



Still surges at idle but goes after a while...

5s video of it idling what I think is normal:

[jai5]

Bled the brakes and clutch last night and was able to move the car back and forth in the garage! Clutch feels fantastic!

It was a bit late to take it for a quick spin around the block with open headers, and there's a bunch of things I need to secure in the engine bay still. Oh and the surging is also gone!

I'm going to try to get it buttoned up enough to have the exhaust done on Saturday. CAA (Canadian AAA) won't tow it without a front end I don't think...

[TipsyMcStagger]

Awesome! What's your plan for the exhaust?

Tipsy

[jai5]

Awesome! What's your plan for the exhaust?

Tipsy

Dual 2.5" all the way to the back.

2x 2.5" spun magnaflow cats
to magnaflow x-pipe (not resonated)
to Topspeed pro 1 catback muffler (2.5")

And a cutout somewhere after the xpipe and before the muffler...

[TipsyMcStagger]

Great! Can't wait to hear you thoughts on the sound once it's completed. I'd like for it to be loud enough that people wonder, "is that sound coming from a BMW?" But not so loud that it's annoying to the general public (or to me).

Tipsy

[jai5]

Engine bay setup basically in its final state.


Front end is back on. Car is ready for an exhaust.