Project Hellrotbox E36 328is LS1 swap

[jai5]

Can you post a picture of your clutch line set up? I know I can mate the GM slave to the BMW master but I don't know where the lines should be spliced.

Paul (BRAAP) did my clutch line.

You can find more info on how he does it here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post20446921
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post19369453
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post20125073

Hope that helps.

[AutoRotate]

Perfect, thanks to both of you!

[BRAAP]

Autorotate,
Most any machine shop can handle the mod for you or if you have access to a lathe all the dims you need are in the posts Jai5 posted.
Or I can do it for you, send me your GM clutch line, (new or used), along with $35 for machine work and drill mod, that includes return shipping within the lower 48 states. Turn around time is typically 12-48 hours, shipping is typically 2-3 business days, PM me if interested.
Ps, be sure your Master Cylinder outlet ID matches that in my CAD drawings first, BMW used a couple different sizes as Pzary and myself found out. If the ID is larger you'll be stuck with the multi-piece-fitting combo others have done,

Take care,
Paul

[Irishace]

@Jai5

How are you going to tackle making the car OBD2 and emissions compliant. Are you planning to drive the car in the streets or will this be a track star only? This is likely the only thing holding me back on converting to an LS1/2 as I want to be able to qualify for my plate sticker and drive it in the streets.

[jai5]

It's a 96 therefore it's not a "plug-in" e-test just a smog test that tests the following (found image on google)
http://www.va3erc.ca/Erics_wheels/ci...e-test_sml.jpg

It will be a street, plated car. I plan to pass emissions by having 2 bullet style magnaflow cats.

in 2.5" ^

[Irishace]

Ahh yes, wish my m3 was not obd2.

[jai5]

My 328is is OBD2. But they do the newer e-test based on year not obd1/2, 97+ is a plug-in test. Also if you have obd2 u can potentially just program all the codes out and literally pass with no cats. Only problem may be the VIN number that shows up when they plug it in... (not sure if that's an issue).

No juicy updates. I cleaned up the engine bay a bit.

[unnatrl]

My 328is is OBD2. But they do the newer e-test based on year not obd1/2, 97+ is a plug-in test. Also if you have obd2 u can potentially just program all the codes out and literally pass with no cats. Only problem may be the VIN number that shows up when they plug it in... (not sure if that's an issue).

No juicy updates. I cleaned up the engine bay a bit.

Ls1 edit will allow you to change the vin in the GM ecu to your BMW vin. In all reality, it's probably easier to "cheat" an obdII system.

[Irishace]

Ls1 edit will allow you to change the vin in the GM ecu to your BMW vin. In all reality, it's probably easier to "cheat" an obdII system.

Ok now we are cooking with gas, going to research LS1 edit. Thanks for this info, really appreciate.

@jai5 really nice looking engine bay, looks like you can eat off of it. Awesome stuff.

[TipsyMcStagger]

How's it coming?

Tipsy

[jai5]

Start with pictures:





So motor is mostly built. Need a new oil pan gasket and need to put the clutch in as well.
Ordered a LS6 intake as well which is on it's way.

I need to figure out how to remove the front diff bushing from the car. I'm working on the wiring, but also procrastinating quite a bit because of the cool weather.

On my plate:
Wiring
Manual swap
Replace front diff bushing
Install diff
Small diameter brake booster install
Brake lines
+ lots more.

[TipsyMcStagger]

Good deal! Keep at it!

Tipsy

[jai5]

Been chipping away at the to-do list over weekends. Mostly small stuff, nothing to exciting to report.

I'm running in to some trouble with the manual pedal swap because of the master/pedal changeover in 1997 (I have a 96). I posted this in the manual swap thread but didn't get any replies. Hopefully you guys can help me out:

Hey guys, I need some help.

I'm in the middle of doing a manual swap. My car is a 1996, but the clutch pedal assembly I have is from a 1998.

The problem is that I wish to use the earlier style clutch master because I already have a custom line made that will only work with earlier style clutch masters (car is going to be LS swapped).

Okay so I know I need some new parts to make it all work. I already know I need a new connector for the line that goes to the brake reservoir and shorter bolts to hold the master in place.

Question: Do I NEED #10,12,13? Or can I just use what I have (#14,15)

[sdobart]

No, you don't need the clutch helper spring/parts. A lot of LS swappers have removed it and have gotten increased pedal feel.

[M5Hunter]

^correct, that gets removed from every car I have built

[nsogiba]

nice swap, don't know how I missed this. I am just across the pond from you outside of Buffalo.

[jai5]

Thanks for the quick answer!

Update:

Motor is back together with the transmisison. Brake lines are almost done. Pedals are in. Diff is in.

Problems:
1) Was trying to bolt in the axle to the diff only realize the ends don't line up. The diff's output flange is wider.
2) The pinion flange is 6 bolt, not 4 like my old one. How are people working with this? Is there a way to make it work or do I have to swap it to a 4 bolt? I will have to make a custom driveshaft anyway (going with JTR kit that does not come with a driveshaft). I still have my old diff that has a 4 bolt flange, is it a direct swap? Easy to do...with the diff in the car?

It's a 3.91 lsd diff, I think they came on earlier automatic 325?m3s?

[unnatrl]

Swap the 4 bolt flange over from your old diff and purchase the JTR flange. It will be a very simple driveline for any shop to build.

Regarding the other problem, you may have to swap the stub shafts as well. I'm not 100% positive, but I believe M3 shafts require M3 stubs and vise-versa.

[bimerok]

Swaping the input flange will require veifying that the diff settings didn't get messed up. That you still have the right contact patch, etc. Swapping the output flanges is easy though. They just pop out with a crawlbar, pop into the new diff and are easy swap.

[jai5]

Okay that doesn't sound too bad, was pretty upset to find that the output flange was different and then just frustrated after noticing the input flange is 6 bolt. I hope I can do it without dropping the diff because it's not fun installing a diff without a hoist.

Trying really hard to get a first start by end of July. I'll post up some pictures for you guys this week as well. This thread needs them.

Thanks again!

Edit: Why isn't there a company that makes 6-bolt flange to 1310 u joint adapter? :|

[killabright]

I deleted ABS on mine and converted everything to 3/8" -24 Inverted flare. Used a Wilwood prop valve. Car doesn't drive yet but the brakes are bled and I forsee no issues. It's just as much if not more work to delete ABS though, honestly probably more simple to relocate the pump and extend the lines. Fuel parts look correct. Can't help you with power steering, I converted my z3 rack to a true manual rack, no pumps or leaking fluid for me. That fuel line looks overkill to me (2500psi), I just got 6 feet of this, works fine. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-240606b. No need for PTFE lines unless youre gonna run e85 or something IMO.

So would you reconmend just doing the relocation? i was going to delete it on mine, but if the relocation is easier, then why not.

[jai5]

Okay swapped the flanges. I didn't do the "right" way, read multiple posts (and the Bentley) on people just marking the nut with the shaft and tightening back to same spot. Had to drop the diff to do it though - which was actually much easier to do the 2nd time around. Took a total of 1-1.5 hours.

Some updates:

Brakes lines:

A good friend of mine works at GM and he did the lines for me. Inspired by AllMotor


Test fit the FPR:


JTR Mount kit:

I opted to just buy a pre-modified subframe from JTR instead of modifying my own.

Mount pic 2:

Going to spray them down with some black paint.


My plan is to run poly engine mounts and a rubber transmission mount. Pic of the poly mount I plan to use:


JTR Driveshaft flange:


Throttle cable:


MGW Shifter:


What the motor currently looks like:


Does anyone have any axle bolt retainers lying around? I need one.
#2 in this picture:

[jai5]

Dropped the subframe the other day:


And as expected, I ran in to some problems:

The shock bolts were seized on there as well, had to torch the shit out of them to get them out.

That's really it for this week, I'm going on a road trip tomorrow for a week and a bit.

[jai5]

Soon...

[TipsyMcStagger]

Looking good!

Tipsy