Project Hellrotbox E36 328is LS1 swap

[sdobart]

I deleted ABS on mine and converted everything to 3/8" -24 Inverted flare. Used a Wilwood prop valve. Car doesn't drive yet but the brakes are bled and I forsee no issues. It's just as much if not more work to delete ABS though, honestly probably more simple to relocate the pump and extend the lines. Fuel parts look correct. Can't help you with power steering, I converted my z3 rack to a true manual rack, no pumps or leaking fluid for me. That fuel line looks overkill to me (2500psi), I just got 6 feet of this, works fine. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-240606b. No need for PTFE lines unless youre gonna run e85 or something IMO.

[bimerok]

Oem diff bushings is my recommendation

[All Motor]

I run solid aluminum diff bushings. You can't tell a difference from stock. You'll hear other people say differently though. It's a never ending debate.

Only reason I use Tilton valves instead of Wilwood is because I've had 3 Wilwoods start leaking on me after just a few hundred miles of use, maybe they've corrected them, I don't want to chance it. They start weeping out of the adjuster. Visually inspecting, the Tilton looks and feels like a much nicer piece and I've never had an issue with them.

[sdobart]

I'm running AKG solid diff mounts and 75D poly subframe mounts. I had issues with getting flares to seal into the wilwood proportioning valve, I agree the quality is somewhat suspect. I actually stripped the first one I bought and had to buy another. Either be really careful, or buy the Tilton (clearly better made).

[All Motor]

I used Wilwood residual valves in hotrods for years, then they one day started being cheaper quality and not sealing like stated above, the house brand half the price ones worked perfect. I don't care for many of their products anymore.

[AutoRotate]

Thanks for the info on the oil pressure senders.

[jakermac]

I converted my z3 rack to a true manual rack, no pumps or leaking fluid for me.

Very interested in hearing how heavy the steering is once you get it running.

[sdobart]

Very interested in hearing how heavy the steering is once you get it running.

I am too, but I know it will be fine. I bought my motor from my friend who had it in his FD RX-7. He had 265s up front with a rack converted to manual and had no issues. The motor doesn't have a power steering pump so instead of buying one I just converted my rack to manual. Low speeds aren't particularly fun but once you get moving, even 5mph it's really not difficult. I'm interested to see if there is better road feel at higher speeds/cornering. I've always thought the power steering in the e36 has felt pretty good.

[jakermac]

I've run de-powered steering before and they've always been fine on the street, but when you throw some sticky wide autocross tires on the car it's a significantly different beast.

[sdobart]

I've run de-powered steering before and they've always been fine on the street, but when you throw some sticky wide autocross tires on the car it's a significantly different beast.

De-powered as in looped lines? Or as in full manual conversion? I took my rack apart, cut the piston seal, greased the rack, welded the fittings, etc. Either way I'm sure with R-comps steering effort is going to be increased. This car is just a fun car/backroads duty for a bit. If I start to do autocross/track days power steering will probably go back in if steering effort is too much.

Sorry for the thread hijack, Jai5.

[jai5]

I would stay with OEM diff bushings but would like to reduce the risk of snapping diff bolts which appears to be quite common.

Been looking through and thinking about what grade diff bushing I should get with your suggestions in mind. There are quite a few people who have no issues with NVH with solid bushings. BUT this is with a BMW engine and transmission that has rubber transmission bushings and a 2 piece driveshaft to keep NVH at a bare minimum. I don't think the same would apply running a LS1 with the Vorshlag kit because they use a nylon "bushing" for the transmission crossmember that I wouldn't call a bushing, it's more of a adapter/spacer. And it's a 1 piece driveshaft...So driveline vibrations have nowhere to go but the diff. (Just my theory, I could be completely wrong)

I browsed through AKG's site and thinking about buying this:
Differential Mount Bushing Set - U.S. Military Spec Polyurethane 95A with Aluminum Sleeves


Also found this chart on understanding poly grades:



Long term plan is to eventually upgrade to a M3 rear end and replace the remaining bushings but I plan to do that sometime next year.

I looked but I couldn't find a bushing removal tool on AKG's site? I see one for the rear trail arm bushing but not for diff...

Kind of surprised by the negative reviews on Wilwood stuff. I'll be sure to keep a close eye on the prop valve after it's installed. Will let you guys know how it goes.

[All Motor]

Do a solid or a hard urethane, you won't regret it.

[Bluebimma]

If youre going solid, make sure you reinforce the e36s weak frame issues first, you will cause a lot more fatigue. My ls6/t56 is poly-mounted to the subframe and transmount and the use of the standard e36 rear diff plate and custom mounts translate vibrations to the rear of the the car. The engine isnt horrible, you get about 30% noise through the trans mount, then the rest through the rear floor. Guys will say NVH is no big issue, drive with rubber, then with poly, theres a major difference. My car was nearly quiet, quieter than our stock nissan altima, but on the inside, you could hear everything in the drivetrain because of the NVH.

[BRAAP]

If youre going solid, make sure you reinforce the e36s weak frame issues first, you will cause a lot more fatigue. My ls6/t56 is poly-mounted to the subframe and transmount and the use of the standard e36 rear diff plate and custom mounts translate vibrations to the rear of the the car. The engine isnt horrible, you get about 30% noise through the trans mount, then the rest through the rear floor. Guys will say NVH is no big issue, drive with rubber, then with poly, theres a major difference. My car was nearly quiet, quieter than our stock nissan altima, but on the inside, you could hear everything in the drivetrain because of the NVH.

+1 to everything he said. Haven driven both Poly and Rubber isolated LSx E36 M3 conversions, (same year and model even), NVH differences were huge between the two.

[jai5]

Well solid bushings aside, is there an upgraded "rubber" option.

From what I gather from AKGs site I'm seeing this:
Stock - Rubber
Upgrade - Poly 95A
Upgrade stage 2 - Poly 75D
Upgrade stage hardcore - Solid Aluminum

Would I be okay to upgrade to Poly 95A diff bushings without needing to reinforce the frame? Or is there an option somewhere in between Poly 95A and Stock Rubber?

Also the question still remains, where can I purchase a tool to remove/install the diff bushings?

And an update:
At the salvage yard:



The boxes that were waiting for me at the UPS store:


The engine and transmission are very clean. It also has MSD wires on there already It has some sort of short shifter on it...and upon looking it up, I'm pretty sure it's this

Also, a big shout out to BRAAP for modding the stock GM clutch line for me. And dealing with me when I sent the wrong one over the first time. :P

Edit: I also have a stock used clutch line that came with the motor, has 70k on it. Let me know if anyone on here is looking for one, I'll sell it for a reasonable price .

[Irishace]

How much did you score the LS1 + T56 dropout for?

[Bluebimma]

Why exactly do you want or feel the need to use poly? Sure its an "upgrade", but if its a street driven car for just pleasure, youll loose the pleasure in it as the car feels exhausting, not "great". Components dont move as much, therefore direct transplant of energy and movement are reduced at the cost of increased vibrations and removal of cushion. Brand new OE or equal rubber is more than sufficient. IF you have issues, then install the poly, you may enjoy the car more with rubber than poly. The engine/trans only have three mounting points, poly translates a lot of noise, some vibrations, but mostly NOISE. If you like a noisey interior, then do it, if not, id advise against it. I took my car to a shop in town for a windshield install, they thought it was completely stock from the the outside. I had the Mroadster catback (dual 2.5"). and a pair of cats, whisper quiet. He drove it in, came up front and said "wtf, it sounds like a monster on the inside, but extremely quiet on the outside". I told him it had the v8 and it was the poly mounts, he didnt believe it until he popped the hood.

AS far as suspension, if you like super tight, twitchy, and even somewhat noisey suspension, get poly. It increases the chances of hearing all your bearings and harmonics though the car, like a stethoscope. Youll hear your tires more, the wheel bearings, the differential gears, and the transmission a lot more. It will be cool for about a week, then get old.


As far as ABS. Its nice to have in adverse weather. I was running m3 front brakes, stock ti rears with upgraded pads, and DOT4, with ABS. Very very nice stopping power, feel, modulation, and stopped when needed without locking the tires. Had my resistor fail for the ACS trick, abs malfunctioned, the car easily stopped all fours if you werent careful, even on dry. Im now running m3 front brakes, 135i/SL600AMG rear brakes, with an m3 master and rear prop valves removed. Amazing pedal, stops like nothing, never locks up, and im not running abs. ABs is hooked up, just not rewired, but itll allow for those instances of carelessness and if someone else drives the car, let alone a selling point if you want to sell the car in the future.

[jai5]

Irishace - There was no "score" for the LS1 drop out haha. Cost me a pretty penny, around $5k after paying tax at the border. But it was hassle-free, the engine is tested, and it's from a reputable salvage yard. He also tossed in the A/C lines and gave me a few o2 sensors.

Bluebimma - Reason for "upgrading" is to avoid snapping the front diff bolt and to reduce wheel hop. But if the stock oem rubber will suffice, then I'll just buy a new set of oem rubber mounts.

[bimerok]

^ This bolt does not look like OEM piece.

[jai5]

It's settled OEM Rubber Bushings with new bolts. If shit breaks, I'll deal with it then.

Thanks for all the help guys.

I'm thinking about pulling the GM harness from the motor and start working on wiring to get it out of the way. I've never done wiring to this extent on a car before, so it's going to be lots of fun.

[bimerok]

While everything is apart and you are doubling the power output, I would strongly recommend to replace the subframe bushings too. If they are still original or even if they were replaced, but are now old, it will be the next thing that will go.

It's not the most plesant job to do, but something that makes sense to do now.

[Irishace]

Irishace - There was no "score" for the LS1 drop out haha. Cost me a pretty penny, around $5k after paying tax at the border. But it was hassle-free, the engine is tested, and it's from a reputable salvage yard. He also tossed in the A/C lines and gave me a few o2 sensors.

5K is pretty damn good for a complete dropout with sensors, harness and DME. Great stuff, congrats again. So looking forward to seeing this take shape and very much hoping to see it in person. Would love to understand your experiences with the wiring, hoping you might be able to put some decent documentation together on your findings.

[Irishace]

Must have updates!

[jai5]

Bimerok - I'm leaving the subframe mounts as-is for now. If I decide to drop the subframe, I want to get the re-enforcements, and m3 rear end done as well...something I will do after I get a feel for the car and how it drives.

No real updates. Combination of being sick, busy, and lazy has prevented me from doing any work on the car.

I did pick up some parts yesterday. Here's a few pictures. I plan to spend some time on the car this weekend.

[AutoRotate]

Can you post a picture of your clutch line set up? I know I can mate the GM slave to the BMW master but I don't know where the lines should be spliced.