Project Hellrotbox E36 328is LS1 swap

[jai5]

Figured it was time to start my own thread up.

Was looking for a winter beater last year and somehow ended up with this:


Tossed in some goodies for the interior, but otherwise it's just a stock 96 328is...that's autotragic (for now)



Will be picking up a LS1 from a 01 Trans-Am WS6 with 70k on it sometime in August.

I'm not a mechanic by any means, I work at a software company full-time. Have done basic maintenance (timing belt, suspension etc) and that's about it. Will definitely have help from a few friends...

Currently in the researching stage, trying to gather as much information as I possibly can. Going to be using the Vorshlag Stage 0 kit.
I've been reading through all the build threads and slowly adding it to this Google document [clearly no where close to being done].

End goal is basically what user SHhhhh had before he went Ls3...and then eventually z06 . The car is just something fun for the weekend, don't have any plans to track it...yet. I do intend to have A/C hooked up eventually as well (it gets super hot during summer in Toronto).

I've already picked up a 3.91 LSD diff. Ordered a HD timing chain set.
Have my cart ready to go from texas speed:

Just not sure about that clutch option yet ^.

I have my stock m52 motor for sale. Hopefully I can sell it before I pick up the Ls1.

Will keep this thread updated as much as possible.

[ckpitt55]

i didn't know 12" kits fit inside the stock bell housing.. interesting

personally don't know much about the ram clutches, but lots of people over on ls1tech like monster....not that it matters but I'll be running a monster stg 2 with the lightweight fly in my car

On the cam stuff - I would measure for pushrod length though prior to ordering. What lifters will you be using?

regardless, good luck with the build. will you be fabricating your own kit or using vorshlag / sambergs / et al's hardware?

[All Motor]

Get the slave at a parts house, like O'Reilly. All slaves are made by AP, and they're only about $65 there. Check over on LS1tech.com about it.

[bimerok]

Good to see another one started. I can relate to the year of the chasis you're starting with and the profession

Also on your parts choices - Any particular reason you're going with that clutch kit which doesn't seem to be including the flywheel? Why not going with LS7 clutch set up? I know it cost more, but the kit does include flywheel, pilot bearing and bolts, all of which you need to replace when doing a clutch job anyway.

If you are getting mail-in tune instead of dyno, there are cheaper alternatives like wait4meperformance that are a lot less expensive and can adjust the tune to your requirements based on the mods. The whole thing with shipping is like $85-$90.

And the same comment as All Motor said on the throwout/slave - they are around $65 on internet or auto parts store and are the same thing...

Good luck with the build - looking forward to updates.

[jai5]

My main reason for not going with a LS7 was due to the pedal issues I've seen people have with them. I think a few members on this site as well have complained about the mushy feel that had to be fixed with an aftermarket M/C (I think Tongboy is one of them).

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...h-money-2.html

The ls7 clutch weighs 60lbs, compared to the Monster that weighs 44lbs, or 54lbs with the 28lbs flywheel. Not only that but the ls7 still has the self adjusting pressure plate, which is the culprit of the eventual high-rpm lockout/pedal stuck to the floor problem.

I'm now leaning towards a Monster Stage 1 kit with 18lb flywheel and it comes with a slave (for an extra $70). Thanks ckpitt55
From what I understand 12" clutches fit perfectly fine. But can't find a straight answer to this so I sent off an email to Monster Clutches to be sure . EDIT: Monster just got back to me and the factory clutch is apparently 12".
As for the pushrod length, I'm not sure how I'd be able to check that if I don't have the motor yet. I have a US mailing address in Buffalo and was planning on shipping the parts there and pick it up at the same time when I pick up the motor. Wasn't planning on changing the lfiters...but it doesn't seem like a bad idea, most likely LS7 lifters. Going with the Vorshlag kit btw.

Regarding the mail-in tune - reason for choosing TSP is because it's their cam and there seems to be a lot of positive feedback compared to other mail-in tuners. But $80-90 does sound appealing...

Also, looks like the m52 is tentatively sold! Plan is to remove it this weekend.

Goddam this forum and it's shitty server.

EDIT: I looked into pushrod lengths with LS7 lifters. Stock is 7.4 and because LS7 lifters are taller by .05, I will most likely need 7.35" pushrods. Most likely going to order with 7.35" pushrods and then measure when I'm installing them and if they're off I can exchange them.
EDIT2: Err that doesn't account for the difference in lift from the cam.

[Bluebimma]

Dont forget with those lifters, you are REQUIRED to remove the heads to put them in. Do not soak them in oil, as that is the incorrect method for ls engines. You need to drill the lifter trays for better oil return. Also need to account for torque to yield bolts otherwise ARP for standard torque. Head gaskets are also needed obviously.

[ckpitt55]

EDIT: I looked into pushrod lengths with LS7 lifters. Stock is 7.4 and because LS7 lifters are taller by .05, I will most likely need 7.35" pushrods. Most likely going to order with 7.35" pushrods and then measure when I'm installing them and if they're off I can exchange them.
EDIT2: Err that doesn't account for the difference in lift from the cam.

Cam lift doesn't affect pushrod length - it's the difference in the base circle of the cam as compared to stock that affects it primarily. Lifter cup height and block deck height tolerances also have an effect.

[jai5]

Bluebimma - that makes me want to buy 243 heads even more now. But must resist, and stay within "budget"
ckpitt55 - ah I see. Will contact TSP and get what they recommend and then measure during install to make sure it's within spec.

[All Motor]

LS7 lifters will still use a 7.400" pushrod, with undecked block and unmilled heads. Built PLENTY of these engines. Pushrod length becomes an issue when you start cutting a lot off the heads, cam base circle changes, different valve train height, etc... Stock heads and valvetrain height, stick with 7.400"

[jai5]

Made some progress today:


The front end was surprisingly easy to remove.

Having a hard time removing those motor mounts nuts, they're ridiculously tight. Going to try again tomorrow after I find a 1/2" swivel adapter. Or migh try removing the whole bracket and unbolt the mount from the bottom...But those bolts don't seem to be easy to access.

[jai5]

Decided to tackle the exhaust today.

Don't think you need to know how I feel about this:

[jai5]

The furnace is out!



Anyone have a driver side wiper arm? I broke it trying to yank the stubborn arm out


I'm also considering deleting ABS. Not because I don't want to make lines, I just don't have any use for it? Plus it will free up space under the hood. Unless someone can convince me otherwise. My two VW Mk3s didn't have it and I never felt like I needed it.
Can someone guide me in the right direction as to what would be involved to delete ABS?

To do before picking up LS1:
- Pull harness from engine
- Install 3.91
- Clean up engine bay
- Buy all required hoses/lines for P/S, Fuel and cooling (that I can)

[bimerok]

I love when people say "I don't need ABS or felt the need for it". It's about the same as saying I want to remove my air bags and seat belts. I just don't really have any use for them.

[All Motor]

I didn't have a need for it lol.

I'm from a hot rod background though, driving 30's cars with nonpower 4 wheel drum brakes, so I know what shitty braking feels like haha

[jai5]

I love when people say "I don't need ABS or felt the need for it". It's about the same as saying I want to remove my air bags and seat belts. I just don't really have any use for them.

I honestly think it's a personal preference. I don't think it's the same as saying I want to remove my airbags or seat belts. You have no control over airbags or seat belts whereas a driver can change their driving style accordingly to compensate for ABS or lack of it. You could also argue saying that drivers that drive cars with ABS drive more aggressively and use ABS as a 'safety' net. Some cars up until recently did not come standard with ABS and was actually an additional option you had to add on.

It really is a topic that's beat to death on multiple car forums and I understand the benefits of ABS and I've chosen to delete it.

Bimerok - Where did you buy reman'd 330i Calipers from? I'm looking to do the same brake setup

I found a thread on ABS delete. Information for anyone else looking to do the same:
Prop valve - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-90-2003/?rtype=10
2 Ts - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/34341111435/

- One outlet from master to T which goes to Front L/R
- One outlet from master to Prop valve > T > Rear L/R

All Motor - I like the bracket you made for the prop valve.... PM sent.

[bimerok]

Well, you asked unless someone can convence me otherwise, so i tried. If you feel that you are as experienced as a professional race car driver or better then so be it. Like you said it is a personal choice.

As far as brake calipers both front 330 and e46 328 for the rear - I got them from Advanced Auto parts. They are OEM units and if I remember correctly remanufactured by A1 Cordon. I love that set up and now with the use of the track pads it is just a killer set up for me.

[All Motor]

Sent ya a PM.

You can see how I ran my lines on my thread. I made all new ones except for those going to the rear. Just remember, port closest to booster on the master controls front brakes, port furthest controls the rears.

[modernbeat]

...I'm also considering deleting ABS. Not because I don't want to make lines, I just don't have any use for it? Plus it will free up space under the hood. Unless someone can convince me otherwise. My two VW Mk3s didn't have it and I never felt like I needed it.

We've had ABS failures on E36 competition cars and the braking was miserable without it. BMW uses the ABS to set the bias and without it the brakes are unbalanced. If you are going to delete ABS you will (IMHO) also need to replace the brakes to make them balanced.

[All Motor]

Hence a proportioning valve. I have done ABS deletes on MANY e30s and e36s, street driven cars and NEVER has there been a complaint. These aren't hardcore race only cars.

[jai5]

Thanks for the info Bimerok! I'll keep that in mind when I do my brakes.

Hoses and fittings for P/S and Fuel. [Deleted P/S setup for now as it's still a work in progress...]

Fuel
Return and Inlet on FPR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-120 (dorman )
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-121 (dorman )
Which will then connect to the stock return and feed line at the FPR
Similar to this with EFI clamps of course


Outlet from FPR:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640940 (russell fitting to an)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-250690b x2 (fitting)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220984 (hose) [I know it's long]
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123 (fuel rail an fitting)

[jai5]

Er realized I need PTFE hose ends for PTFE lines...

Is there any difference between these 2 lines?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-632600
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220984 (I will be buying this to use as a fuel line, wondering if I need to buy the 'powerflex' hose for the p/s as well. Don't see why I cant use this line for P/S as well)

[Irishace]

In Toronto as well and still considering this swap for my e36 M3. In for porgress updates, good luck! P.S. where did you find the LS1 donor car?

[jai5]

In Toronto as well and still considering this swap for my e36 M3. In for porgress updates, good luck! P.S. where did you find the LS1 donor car?

Thanks man!

Motor is going to be picked up from a Salvage yard in Buffalo.

[Irishace]

Thanks man!

Motor is going to be picked up from a Salvage yard in Buffalo.

Excellent, let me know when you start digging into this, would love to pop over and check it out! I really am looking at this as my best option to add solid NA power. Thanks again for posting, I will be following this thread intently.

[jai5]

Haha yea no problem.

I tweaked my back a bit on Friday, so didn't really do much this weekend. I placed orders from summit, TSP (cam), and Monster clutches for a level 2 clutch. I'm definitely feeling the hurt in my wallet(and back)... :P

I looked in to the oil pressure switch hook up. I found this nifty post on ls1tech:

Far Left.
97-2000 Corvette OFAC (still available) Part Number 12551587
Comes already drilled and with a metric thread M12 x 1.5
Drill out the metric thread using a 7/16" drill
Tap 1/4 pipe thread
Use a 1/4" male x 1/8" female reducing bush
Screw the 1/8" pipe threaded sender into that.

Centre
Fbody OFAC (No Longer available from GM new**) Part Number 12551595
Comes blank (not drilled and no thread)
Drill out the boss using a 21/64" drill
Tap 1/8 pipe thread
Screw the 1/8" pipe threaded sender into that.
**Part superceded by 12577903

Right
GTO OFAC Part Number 12577903
Comes blank (not drilled and no thread)
Drill the centre using a 21/64" drill
Tap 1/8 pipe thread
Screw in a 90 deg 1/8 pipe male female elbow
Screw the 1/8" pipe threaded sender into that.

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654515

The BMW oil pressure switch is M12x1.5 so if I use 97-2000 Corvette OFAC (still available) Part Number 12551587 it should be a direct plug and play.

I also found a cheap(er) alternative to the Tilton prop valve.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627

Exact same specs as the tilton http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-90-2003/overview/

Plan is to pick up the Motor next Saturday along with the parts I ordered this past week.

To-do list:
- Freshen up diff
- Install diff
- Clean the crap out of the engine bay

- - - Updated - - -

Anyone have any recommendations on diff bushings?

I want something that's not too harsh but will provide the stiffness I need to prevent it from snapping diff bolts.