Hi guys, I have never had this problem before with the car. It has always started up right away. I parked the car in an unusual spot over night on a slope where the nose was pointing down and I have about 1/3 tank of gas in the car. I was hoping maybe that had to do with the issue but I was able to coast the car down the hill to a flat spot and let it rest there and nothing has changed. I checked the fuses and did not notice anything blown (a blown fuse would be obvious without having to pull them out, right?)
Car has ~74,000 miles
Here is a video of me trying to start the car. I am hoping to narrow the problem down to something that I can diagnose and maybe fix myself, though I am hardly a mechanic.
http://youtu.be/3k30IzRRSjI
Thank you,
Scott
Last edited by Drex; 08-08-2013 at 12:42 PM.
My apologies, it was marked as private. Should be fixed.
You may not be able to tell a blown fuse without pulling them. Some are obvious but I'd go back through and actually pull them out to check them. My instrument cluster was dead this spring in the roadster. Pulled the fuses, all were fine. Put them back in, it has worked fine ever since. Our cars are at the age that there might be some crap in the fuse block not causing a good conduction. Pulling and reinstalling can clean up the contacts a bit.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
On the S52, very little of the engine management is fused. The fuel pump is about it.
Checking for fuel pressure at the rail is always a good first step. Warning, it's supposed to be around 50psi. Due care to not spray fuel everywhere is required.
Beyond that. What tools are available? Scanner? Volt meter? Test light?
/.randy
I pretty much have no tools unfortunately. I can change my oil and do very minor things myself but that is about it. Not sure what the "rail" is or how to check the pressure guess I will need to get it towed and looked at if the video and info I have provided is not enough.
The rail is the fuel injector rail. It is under the trim in the center of the engine. Towards the front of the rail is a schrader valve (same as a tire). You could pop the stem of the valve with a small screwdriver and judge the pressure behind the fuel the comes out. But it sounds like no matter the outcome of such a test, or more involved ones, you are not in a position tool-wise to do much more.
/.randy
There was no pressure to the rail so I ordered a new fuel pump. I am now in the process of trying to replace it but I cannot for the life of me get the damn outer black ring unscrewed. I even had beefcake friend of mine with massive hands come and try and crack it but no dice. Any advice for getting that thing off? It is like a giant pickle jar that you cant open or get a good grip on...
Also, when I tried to start up the engine again before unplugging everything to the pump, a small amount of what seemed like electrical smoke came out of all 4 tail pipes....wtf?? Is this a bigger issue than the pump?
Before swapping the fuel pump why not check to see if the fuses and relay are good. See if you are getting voltage to Fuse 13, and jump the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump powers up. Here's the link to the ETM http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm. I think its Pin 30 and 87 but I'm not sure, I'm going off the top of my head and it would be safer to look through the manual. I'll take a look later when I have some time. You can pick up a multimeter anywhere, Harbor Freight has them for less than $10. Very useful tool to have.
Yes. Checking fuel pressure was a first step, not a final diagnosis. The engine computer turns on the fuel pump as required. There are many things that can cause the computer to not bring the pump in... from the anti-theft to a bad crank sensor. The next place to check is the fuel pump relay to see if it's getting the proper voltages and computer commands. If it is, then you likely have a bad pump. If it isn't, then the next step is to trace back up the relay line that is incorrect.
/.randy
Sounds like the crank angle sensors problem again, it appears it will not allow the fuel pump to work if its faulty, normal symptoms are engine cranking and sometime starting for a few seconds, they will on older engines accumulate iron filings from the oil (there magnetic), this then mimics the engine running and fools the ECU that the cars running, £30 and 2 hours of your labour, damed things between the starter and the inlet manifold, but needs no special tools just a will to beat the fault!
i did the fuel pump recently in mine. take a flathead screwdriver put it against on of the ridge on the ring and tap it with a hammer in direction to loosen obviously. then take flathead or angled prybar and gently pry sender assy out of sealing ring (may be tight)
ironically, once i replaced pump, i tested old one (for s& giggles even though i knew) by jumping straight to battery and it turned on, even though pump was 100% the failure. once new one installed, fired right up first crank, bada bing!
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Last edited by ticklemejoviemo; 08-22-2013 at 05:34 PM.
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