E36 RTAB DIY with BMW Tools w/ or w/o GC shims

[orlandoD]

any trouble running he 96+ rtabs with gc shims?

[SG_M3]

I run the GC shims and rtabs, its a very nice setup. Stiff enough without the added NVH of poly.

[Radams58]

Howdy all, just got done my RTAB's and let me tell you... not a single one of my fears was justified (except the sawzall, KINDA)

For those of you who want to do it with out the proper tools, I'll append some quick notes.


1) DO NOT START DRINKING BEFORE YOU SAWZALL
(I realize that this is pretty obvious but it didn't slow me down one bit)

2) After dropping the Trailing Arms, we went at the bushing with 1/2" drill bits

3) Having cleared out most of the rubber we stuck a 3/8" extension through the eye of the bushing and twisted it out

4) When sawzallling, BE SOBER and if you feel you need to error on which is getting more pressure (inner or outer side), err on the outer side as (on mine at least) the arms are tapered

5) Once we had our (TOO DEEP) groove we just beat them out with a screwdriver and a claw hammer

6) As for reinstallation, I ran a quick sand around the inside of the arm and then ran to the hardware store.

7) Pick yourself up 2 2" galvanized steel plumbing caps, a piece of 7/16" allthread, 2 nuts/washers and a 7/16" metal drill bit if necessary.

8) Drill a hole in the center of each cap and push the allthread through one cap with the open end facing towards the RTAB opening.

9) Put the trailing arm bushing on the allthread, feed the allthread through the arm and put the other cap on the inside of the car (opening facing torwads the arm)

10) Apply the nuts and washers and just draw it in. Mine took about 3 min/side (w/a little anti-sieze for good measure).



Thanks for all the help from an awesome thread.

[munsonbw]

Nice write-up. You guys ever thought of renting out the tools to other forum members? I know over on the Porsche forums there is a "community" tool for 944s that is like $300. One guy bought it, then rents it out to other members. I think you pay for the tool, then upon its safe return he refunds 90% of the deposit. Just a thought.

Ben

[dfess1]

I just did this past weekend. I'd like to add, if you are using the victory tool, you definilty need to get the flange (at least on my 95 M3) completly out. We used a grinder to get it down on the second one, but didn't do it all the way on the first. Ended up flatening some of the threads on the rod. Quick trip for a tap and Die, and all was fixed. But yes, you need to ground down the flange to get them out.

[whiteM3/4]

I just did this past weekend. I'd like to add, if you are using the victory tool, you definilty need to get the flange (at least on my 95 M3) completly out. We used a grinder to get it down on the second one, but didn't do it all the way on the first. Ended up flatening some of the threads on the rod. Quick trip for a tap and Die, and all was fixed. But yes, you need to ground down the flange to get them out.

I've used the victory products tool twice on two diff M3's and I used a drimmel after bending the flange up. Worked quite well. Took us about 3 hours to do both sides, with one side being stubborn. With the Victory Products tool you really need to use oil like they recommend to lub the threads and where the nuts meet the cap.

[dfess1]

can you tell me what the larger "block" was for? we didn't use it. And yes, the second go around, we oiled the crap out of it.

[whiteM3/4]

can you tell me what the larger "block" was for? we didn't use it. And yes, the second go around, we oiled the crap out of it.

If you mean the block from Victory Products it was to install an OEM RTAB-i.e., shove it in, the curved one is to remove the old RTAB. Did you use powerflex bushings or some other type? I put GC shims in too.

[dfess1]

If you mean the block from Victory Products it was to install an OEM RTAB-i.e., shove it in, the curved one is to remove the old RTAB. Did you use powerflex bushings or some other type? I put GC shims in too.

no, i put in stock bushing, but these didn't have a flange on them. And we just used the smaller one and pulled it through again. I also put the GC shims in. Now I have to bolt up the sway. The endlinks don't want to sit right (on the UUC bar), otherwise it'd have been done yesterday.

[Radagast1066]

I bought my RTAB tool from Victory Products about 2 weeks ago. $84 plus shipping and it worked great. 2 hours to install RTABS and TMS shims. I also picked up the Strut Socket and the Valve Spring compressor tool as I know I will be needing them in the near future.

If any Tulsa OK guys need to borrow any of them, drop me an email. I may even stand over you drinking a beer telling you your doing it wrong. LOL

Hey all, first post here. Two things:

The RTAB itself - just go stock? I saw aluminum ones mentioned somewhere and wondered if they were worthwhile (and for what application, maybe). Same goes for the GC shims - a bit firm (and unnecessary) for what is really just a "street" car?

Second - the tool. That Victory tool certainly looks like a good value (renting from Koala is not feasible - I live in Toronto). Not much info on the site, looks like maybe you use it in combination with a regular puller...?

Any Toronto area owners know of good shops for tools like this, either rental or purchase? For that matter, how about parts for our cars in general? There's so many good US suppliers but we always get hosed on duties / tariffs / shipping / etc. etc. By the time I got that Victory Designs tool in my hands here I'm sure I'd have paid twice its value.


Thanks all!
Scott.

[braindamage]

The RTAB itself - just go stock? I saw aluminum ones mentioned somewhere and wondered if they were worthwhile (and for what application, maybe). Same goes for the GC shims - a bit firm (and unnecessary) for what is really just a "street" car?

If this is not a track car, don't even think of buying the momoball unit. The TO snow and salt in the winter will destory it. GC shim with stock busing is nice if you plan to track the car a few time a year. If this is you daily driver car, no need to upgrade.

Second - the tool. That Victory tool certainly looks like a good value (renting from Koala is not feasible - I live in Toronto). Not much info on the site, looks like maybe you use it in combination with a regular puller...?

Any Toronto area owners know of good shops for tools like this, either rental or purchase? For that matter, how about parts for our cars in general? There's so many good US suppliers but we always get hosed on duties / tariffs / shipping / etc. etc. By the time I got that Victory Designs tool in my hands here I'm sure I'd have paid twice its value.

When I did the GC shim and stock bushings on my old 325is, I did the drill and cut method. It was hell . I have a customer made install tool which took no time to install stock bushing.

[Radagast1066]

When I did the GC shim and stock bushings on my old 325is, I did the drill and cut method. It was hell . I have a customer made install tool which took no time to install stock bushing.

Where did you get your GC shims from? If somewhere US, did you get hosed on the cross-border shipping etc.? I've never gotten auto parts in that fashion, I'm curious.

And what about the stock bushings? Just from the stealer? Or can you save a couple of bucks getting them at another shop too?

And would you consider renting out your custom installer tool? Might be handy - my brother's driveway, where this would likely get done, is in Etobicoke. Looking to make an RSM/RTAB day out of it. lol Taking my car to Indianapolis in a few weeks and want to get this stuff done first.

Thanks again
Scott.

[dfess1]

Where did you get your GC shims from? If somewhere US, did you get hosed on the cross-border shipping etc.? I've never gotten auto parts in that fashion, I'm curious.

And what about the stock bushings? Just from the stealer? Or can you save a couple of bucks getting them at another shop too?

And would you consider renting out your custom installer tool? Might be handy - my brother's driveway, where this would likely get done, is in Etobicoke. Looking to make an RSM/RTAB day out of it. lol Taking my car to Indianapolis in a few weeks and want to get this stuff done first.

Thanks again
Scott.

I got mine from the dealer. I think they were 20 bucks for both of them.

[braindamage]

Where did you get your GC shims from? If somewhere US, did you get hosed on the cross-border shipping etc.? I've never gotten auto parts in that fashion, I'm curious.

And what about the stock bushings? Just from the stealer? Or can you save a couple of bucks getting them at another shop too?

And would you consider renting out your custom installer tool? Might be handy - my brother's driveway, where this would likely get done, is in Etobicoke. Looking to make an RSM/RTAB day out of it. lol Taking my car to Indianapolis in a few weeks and want to get this stuff done first.

Thanks again
Scott.

Hey Scott,

I ordered the GC shims from GC. Depends on where and what you order, the tax and shipping may not be bad. Just get the stock bushings from the dealer. They are like $22.00cad each + tax. You can use the tool (home made but work well) as long as you don't break it

Stephen

[joebigfun]

Been reading a lot of posts on RTAB replacement, and am thinking of ordering the Victory tool. Here's a thought that was alluded to in only one post I read; is the RTA tapered towered the outside where the RTAB goes in? This might explain why both the VPD & BMW tools have you remove the RTAB from the inside out. And it might explain why some of you had a biatch of a time removing the RTAB from the inside after cutting off the flange. I'll mike mine when I get to the job, but maybe someone knows for sure?

[JohnH]

I went with the RTAB and shim combo package from MPACT for around $89 shipped. Can't imagine it would be that much more to Toronto than it was to Minneapolis, but I guess you'd know more about that than I would.

I also rented the Koala RTAB tool set by mail for $80, plus about $14 to ship them back to Koala via UPS. These tools made it pretty easy, just a lot of wrench turning. Then I got an alignment a few days later for $90.

Only problem is, nowhere in the above writeup does it tell you to lubricate the GC shims or the RTABS where they contact the shims. I have a really annoying squeak/creaking sound from the right rear when going over bumps at low speeds or backing out of a driveway etc. And now that I've returned the "alignment bar" and had a 4-wheel alignment done, I don't relish the thought of taking the shims off to lube them up. I guess from the reading I've done, some people have the squeak and some don't. It's driving me crazy though.

Any suggestions?

[Radagast1066]

I went with the RTAB and shim combo package from MPACT for around $89 shipped. Can't imagine it would be that much more to Toronto than it was to Minneapolis, but I guess you'd know more about that than I would.

It's not so much the shipping "distance", per se, it's the cross-border customs fees and duties and crap. Plus, each shipper has a different amount they charge for their "processing", which gets passed on to the receiver. UPS is the worst, so you can imagine who I always seem to end up getting stuff from the US shipped with.

I also rented the Koala RTAB tool set by mail for $80, plus about $14 to ship them back to Koala via UPS. These tools made it pretty easy, just a lot of wrench turning.

I wish. They won't do this for "foreign" customers.

Only problem is, nowhere in the above writeup does it tell you to lubricate the GC shims or the RTABS where they contact the shims. I have a really annoying squeak/creaking sound from the right rear when going over bumps at low speeds or backing out of a driveway etc.

Actually, I kind of have this squeak now (more like chirping, actually). It's actually what's helping to spur me to get my RSMs and RTABs done. I hope I don't still hear it after!

[Tj Hunter]

Can you get away with using a friend to hold the trailing arm up while putting the bolt through? I have no idea where to get that tool.

[Tj Hunter]

Bump, I really need to know this question. I need to do my bushings next week, and I am wondering if that tool is available at Auto Zone or if you can not use it. Thanks.

[JohnH]

I'm almost positive you will not find that tool at Autozone since it's a BMW part with a BMW part number stamped on it.

However earlier on in this thread they have a section that shows you how to make a part that will do the same thing as the special alignment tool (it's in post #44 I believe). Don't know how successful you'll be with that but it's from the TIS documents by the looks of it. Koala was kind enough to include those pages with the tools I rented, I guess so I could try it both ways if I wanted to.

-John

[Ubertino]

Please allow me to ressurect this thread- I'm thinking of doing my rtabs, and for the most part it looks pretty simple- I can rent a spring compressor from autozone, as well as bushing pullers and pushers- a bushing is a bushing, no matter who makes it.

The question I have is, when I get an alighnment, I go to firestone where I go the $120 lifetime alignment deal, no questions asked. But it's a thrust alighnment, not a four wheel alignment. Will this be a problem?

[Buddha]

Couldn't you just mark where the rtab console is before you take if off and line it up again when you install? Might still want to use a straight piece of metal to help. Just a thought.

[Zaks]

what is the part number for the bushing ?

[hellrot325]

what is the part number for the bushing ?

The M3 RTAB's are part # 33 32 2 228 153. Same L/R

[BSH]

FYI - VPD now sells the RTA alignment tool.

I just received it but have yet to use it.