what kind of problems does the 545 I has

[zaherr]

Hi guys I am an E38 owner and my older brother is thinking about buying an E60

I don't know if there is a different between the years

And I would like to know what kind of problems this car has and what is the best year of that model that he should buy

Thanks a lot

[Greycity]

2004 for is the first year of production of 545i I heard a lot of people say they have a few more problem then the 2005 the end of 545i.i own the 2005 545i so far it's been coolant hoses that u need to look at and they are known for leaks when I got mine I replaced all coolant hoses no leaks anywhere to be found drives like a champ no other problems so far love it

[Lloydace]

I have a 2004 545i. I have just had to shell out $5300.00 CDN due to a failure of the valve seals. The seals and exhaust valves had to be replaced and the air ports cleared out. It runs like a beautiful powerful car now, but frankly I am choked that a car with only 60,000 miles on it would have this failure. I drive about 6000 to 7000 miles a year, usually a half hour drive to the office and back, and the occassional highway run on a holiday trip. Has anyone heard of this happening or have any ideas why, or perhaps I was just unlucky? Would love to hear from you.

[H F]

I have a 2004 545i. I have just had to shell out $5300.00 CDN due to a failure of the valve seals. The seals and exhaust valves had to be replaced and the air ports cleared out. It runs like a beautiful powerful car now, but frankly I am choked that a car with only 60,000 miles on it would have this failure. I drive about 6000 to 7000 miles a year, usually a half hour drive to the office and back, and the occassional highway run on a holiday trip. Has anyone heard of this happening or have any ideas why, or perhaps I was just unlucky? Would love to hear from you.

I have a 05 545, and have done quite a bit of reading on this matter. From what I understand the seals are made from some kind of biodegradable materials due to Germanys green regulations and seem to deteriate and leak . Another contributor is that the 545 lacks an oil cooler and is not good on gasket longevity due to higher running oil temperatures. Also the exhaust valve steam seals are the ones that fail not the intake side thus blowing smoke out the tail pipe. So the heat from the exhaust valve steams is what wears out the seals. The secondary air ports are right next to the exhaust valves . The leaky seals get oil onto the secondary air ports and the heat actually carbonize the oil thus clogging the air passages.. So the best thing we can do as 545 owners is to go beyond the factory recommendations as far as fluid changes, especially the motor oil. I change mine at 7,000 mi . trany every 30,000, brake, coolant, hydraulic fluids every two years.
I think at 60,000 miles is alittle soon to have that problem, I guess its just luck of the draw. Cause im at 95,000 miles and so far so good... But I think im on borrowed time.

- - - Updated - - -

Here are a few common leak issues .. Alternator bracket gasket is a pain in the rear to fix and costly due to the location down low behind the alternator. Valve cover gaskets, selinoid o rings, cam timing covers, coolant pipe. oil switch.. The trick is to stay on top of these things and maintain the car with keeping the fluids clean and changed frequently. That being said I love my 545 I maintain it well and love the the way it handles and drives..It manuvers excellent at high speeds, the steering is tight and solid at 120 and over. It corners and turns as if on rails with the amazing ARS suspention which I feel is the best feature in my opinion. So this car has its issues but it is a great machine to drive

[kaineb]

I have a 2004 545i. I have just had to shell out $5300.00 CDN due to a failure of the valve seals. The seals and exhaust valves had to be replaced and the air ports cleared out. It runs like a beautiful powerful car now, but frankly I am choked that a car with only 60,000 miles on it would have this failure. I drive about 6000 to 7000 miles a year, usually a half hour drive to the office and back, and the occassional highway run on a holiday trip. Has anyone heard of this happening or have any ideas why, or perhaps I was just unlucky? Would love to hear from you.

What were the symptoms you were experiencing for each the valve seals and the exhaust air ports? And why did they need to replace valves?

Thanks!

[White94RX]

Symptoms are oil consumption, and smoke out the tail pipes after an extended idle (like at a traffic light). Don't know why the exhaust valves would need to be replaced. I've never replaced them and done 15+ valve stem seal jobs.

[H F]

Symptoms are oil consumption, and smoke out the tail pipes after an extended idle (like at a traffic light). Don't know why the exhaust valves would need to be replaced. I've never replaced them and done 15+ valve stem seal jobs.

The seals can be done with out dropping the engine right ?? Cause I had the dealer say that it needs to come out. I think it can b done with out dropping the motor . How difficult is it to put the spring compressor on those back valves ? Is there a certain type of compressor needed for those back side valves ? I have friend that is planning on doing the seal replacement soon.

[AB Able Truck]

I was told I needed valve stem seals also. This is copied from my previous post:


**The valve stem diameter was increase at a production point to remedy the guide problem. I could't believe BMW would continue to use inferior stem seals after this change. My vehicle has now passed smog test & no longer smokes. I did have to run the proceedure twice before it lowerd the HC levels within specs. And I will probably do it 1 more time for good measure. It cost me $200 to fix compared to the $4000 > $5000 I was told it would take for a guide/seal replacement **


2006 BMW 550I – 92,000 miles – V8 (N62TU)
Smokes (white/gray ) – failed visual – Smog Report (15 mph – HC ppm Measured 91 – Max. 49)


It used oil (approx. 1 qt. per 2-3 tanks) and I read the history of V8 valve stem problems (internet & local shop research), I was about to have the valve guide/stem seals replaced or drive the car off a cliff. But it didn’t have the classic symptoms of defective valve stem seals/guides. It also ran like a rapped ape (old school for ran great). I’m a heavy truck mechanic with old school car experience (35 years). The plugs were clean and the exhaust smelled funny, also the exhaust dripped clean water no matter how hot or long it ran. I pulled the intake throttle housing and noticed excessive oil. Replaced the (ccv) diaphragms in the valve covers (torn) & read up on the cyclone oil separator (like a Dyson vacuum). Because I wasn’t happy with the oil consumption & residue in the intake, I fabricated a sponge with screen for each valve cover vent outlet. This cleaned out the oil residue and I assume it will reduce oil consumption while allowing crankcase recirculation, but it did not solve the smoke problem. I pulled the spark plugs and stuck a camera down a couple plug holes. Yes, the top of the pistons were loaded with carbon. So I sprayed Sea Foam in each plug hole, followed by a shot of low pressure shop air to help spread it around the piston. I let it sit for an hour or so, then reinstalled the plugs. I topped off the fuel tank with high octane and added 12 oz. of CRC Fuel System Cleaner (part #05063) to the tank. 100 miles later and what a difference – no smoke or water dipping out the exhaust after warm up. I’m in love with the car again




**** Day 9 - 712 miles later and still no smoke or excessive water from tailpipe
For those of you seasoned mechanics replacing guides & seals - This worked for me - my vehicle - my situation - so please don't get your knickers in a knot and get all defensive as I experienced on another forum.


**Note: I need to give full credit to my 25 yr. old friend/mechanic/smog tech/neighbor for his insistence I try Sea Foam. He works on BMWs, Mercedes and other makes. I never heard of Sea Foam (we used Justice Brothers in my hay day) and I didn't believe it would solve my issue. Although it was my idea to soak the piston tops first before spraying it thru the intake. I'll also take credit for the sponge/foam/screen in the PCV hose idea. **

[sigtwenty]

The exhaust valves need to be cleaned by hand due to they get gunked up internally full of grease and oil.

At least thats what the removed heads from an x5 with a 4.8 motor looked like when my indie showed them to me. All hail the m62 lol.

It seems like the mid 2000 decade of v8 motors for bmw were not the best. They perform well but are very prissy. Thats why I'll do a I6 for an e60 purchase

[shepdotcom]

As many have, I'm sure, I'm arriving here too late to go back and decide NOT to buy my 05 545. It's a beauty, but a leaky one. At 93k I had the valve seals done. And I went through the coolant hose BS (fixed that myself for 35$). Not long after, I was told that she has a rear end leak. After the successful and pricey valve cover/alt gasket replacement, I started noticing a small oil stain near the rear end. Well, she had been sitting for a few months and has amassed a larger puddle now. My question is - has anyone experienced the rear end leak? The oil is clear brown - not red - I thought RE fluid was red? Or am I into something bigger and worse than all of the above? bah!

[yash]

As many have, I'm sure, I'm arriving here too late to go back and decide NOT to buy my 05 545. It's a beauty, but a leaky one. At 93k I had the valve seals done. And I went through the coolant hose BS (fixed that myself for 35$). Not long after, I was told that she has a rear end leak. After the successful and pricey valve cover/alt gasket replacement, I started noticing a small oil stain near the rear end. Well, she had been sitting for a few months and has amassed a larger puddle now. My question is - has anyone experienced the rear end leak? The oil is clear brown - not red - I thought RE fluid was red? Or am I into something bigger and worse than all of the above? bah!

You may have a leaking differential seal, get under there and look. If it is the rear cover that's leaking it could be easy, if it's one of the shafts it may require a pro depending on your skillset.
We use gear oil in our diffs, color vary

Blastingb4rust.

[soulmaker1]

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