Guys, when driving for a while my Dynamic Drive malfunction light goes on, then shortly after that the active steering malfunction light comes on, then the ac goes on and off. Usually when I turn the car off everything re-sets. Yesterday it progressed even worse.... including all of the above then the tranny wouldn't shift out of high gear when I came to a stop. When I started again it was clearly in high gear. Sounds light a module is going bad ?
Replace battery and alternator. Should be good afterwards.
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
The battery is brand new 4 months old
And now alternator, believe in the force Luke!! ;-)
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
Can I test the alternator by putting voltmeter on the battery, then get a 14.4 volt reading if it is working right or not.
In theory yes, so long as it's stable. But to have so many function errors is still a power issue. If your power is stable possibly the alternator is still not producing to the correct amperage. Test your voltage at different engine rpm's to check fluctuating readings. Your battery voltage could still drop while the engine is running. Conduct a load test of your new battery to ensure you don't have a weak cell. Let us know how it goes with your diagnostic checks. Good luck!
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
OK at idle it reads 12.0 to 12.6, when at 2000 rpm 13.7 to 14.0. and this is when the issues have started. when the car has cooled down and the issues go away, the voltage is steady at idle or up to 2000 rpm and reads 13.7 to 13.9. So I understand what you are saying. I've read some guys have just replaced the voltage regulator, thoughts ? car only has 60k miles on it. do these things go out this quickly ?
I can tell you that my 2006 650i has 110k miles still on the original alternator and I sometimes get the Dynamic Drive error as well. It only happens on 2 occasions, when the car has been sitting and the oil hasn't been circulated. It's tied to the power steering oil. And when backing up turning. This too changes oil pressure. I noticed I do have a couple of hose leaks so I added some power steering stop leak and it doesn't happen anymore. The reason I know it's a power issue with your car is you get several errors that are BMW hallmark signs for a bad power grid. If you replace the voltage regulator, you may as well go ahead and replace the whole unit. I would buy new and not refurbished though. BMW's need that stable power supply!
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
OK Thanks. I also heard the there is an intergrated voltage control module or something like that which can act up and cause these symptoms. its about $100 and is locates in the passenger foot well area.
That's interesting, I'll check that out as well.
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
Why don't you have the car properly diagnosed before you throw any money at it? If it is the alternator, there will be "overvoltage" fault codes stored, and you will know for sure the alternator will fix it. If it's something else, you definitely don't want to waste money replacing it if it's not the issue.
You guys on here kill me. "Put an alternator on it, that'll fix it!"
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Here is the exact same thing I am experiencing from a 2009 post.............. "I know this thread goes back to 2009 but was wondering if you had this issues resolved?
I've been experiencing same electrix problems on my 2005 645 CI and BMW in Madrid said they don't know how to fix it! grrrrr
When the car is cold, everything is ok, but after ~30min of drive all systems start failing (dynamic drive, active steering wheel, gearbox etc.). What's worse, air-con starts & stops intermittenly, same with the navi screen.
My battery was already replaced (by BMW so it was registered) but nothing else." Me again, what I have been reading is not many Stealerships are figuring the problem out. I have read, Sometimes a battery fixes it, sometimes an alternator, sometimes a new IBS (Intelligent battery switch) and sometimes the IVM (Integrated voltage module.... I think)..... Anyway today I drove 35 miles to work..... and no problems. I have a digital voltmeter inserted in the cig lighter so that I can see what the voltage is when it happens. This morning it was a solid 13.9 volts and again no issues. I'll let you guys know what happens on the way home. I don't think its the alternator and the battery is new.
- - - Updated - - -
Did my own diagnosis, don't need to pay $300 for one. It started the symptoms on the way home from work about 30 mins into the trip. Portable Voltmeter in my cig lighter was pretty stable at first around 13.7v then started displaying a broader range 12.7 to 14.4 then grew higher on the range still fluctuating but usually no lower than 12.5.... on the high end started hitting low 15's then bingo the Dynamic Drive malfunction kicked in at 17.1 Volts...... over charging..... I'm going to replace the voltage regulator within the Alternator. I'll let you know how it goes.
Exactly!! I said the exact same thing in my previous post. Voltage will fluctuate and when it gets high or too low you have these issues.
My posts are by no means the only solutions or guaranteed methods, but only offer insight to previous personal experiences. Anyone can make an appointment and wait forever for the dealer to just replace parts and charge you the premium service. I like to understand why these parts fail. That's why I like to tinker with my bimmer!
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
OK guys, I put a new regulator in for $50. Took me a couple of hours. runs like a champ. I have done a write-up with pictures in a word doc. But the file is too big to up-load. This the first DIY I've done for this site, so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Great to hear it worked out for you! Let me guess, you removed the air filter box and front air pipe. Removed the belt and tensioner then the idler pulley to get to all the alternator bolts. Removed the alternator and replaced the internal regulator. Put everything back and said three Hail Mary's!!
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
Nope. remove radiator cover and retainer, then the aux fan, belt then alternator. that simple
Where did you get a $50 Voltage regulator? Could you post a link?
Sure let me look it up.
I have the exact same problem and I had some battery problems that the dealer misdiagnosed. As a result, I have lost confidence in the dealer (Schomp).
However, I do smell fluid burning when I shut off the engine which makes me think that perhaps my dynamic drive is leaking fluid. My 2005 has about 67,000 miles on it. If the dynamic drive is bad and needs to be replaced then I will do it but I am hoping that doing so fixes the problem of the various other control systems going haywire shortly after I get the dynamic drive error code.
can some one please help me out, i have the same problem, with my 2004 645ci. After I drive the car for about 7 Mlles, the car turns off automatically, steering signal turns on, triangle inside a circle turns on as well, and the nag screen says transmission problem, then I push the car to the side of road, and try to start again, but it won't. until i wait about 2 hours and then start it again, and it starts like nothing wrong ever happened.
Please help me, this issue has happened to me already 3 times, and I am scare it will happen to me somewhere dangerous and I may get into a car accident.
See my previous post here. Your car is running on the battery until it is drained.
88' BMW 735i "orientation"
89' BMW 325i Conv "classic"
91' BMW 850i 6sp "very nice"
96' BMW 750i "Top"
99' BMW 540i 6sp "Bulletproof"
2002 BMW 745Li "worst ever"
Current:
2006 BMW 650i conv 6sp "007 Special"
&
2011 BMW DINAN 550i F10 "Executive Assassin"
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