I got my top ready to go on at some point it is a fully manual roof without the relief patches just wondering how long this would take with two people roughly yhanks for this very detailed guide
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
great thread. Question: Anyone definitively found out the cause of the snakebites? I'd hate to put on a new top and immediately..get the snakebites again. Thanks
This is the best writeup I've seen on this. Question for everyone, is there a cached version of this that has working pics? I feel like it's written so well that I won't need them, but it wouldn't hurt. Thanks!
Tackled this a couple of weeks ago. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Taking the old top off took 45 minutes. It took the rest of the day to get the new one on. Ordered the top with plastic tabs from Diamondmall on eBay. What I found that I had to do was drill the tabs in the top to have bigger openings. I couldn't even get my 3/16" x 1/4" rivets through the tabs without it. Still need to punch a couple more rivets on each side because I can't figure out how to make a spacer work to get in there. I saw where some people actually grinded down the head, so I might try that one in combination with the spacer. The front was the hardest for me because it was the last to get fastened back in place. I'm thinking I may pull part of it back off and take some pics to help others out.
Definitely went with the EZ-on Haartz Stayfast. It was $419.99 shipped to Hawaii. Can't imagine having done this without the plastic tabs, so those that have were brave. The fit was perfect and the cloth feels and looks great. Depending on the weather I'll try to get some pics this weekend.
Did you need new tension straps ? I never had a headliner (only hardtop and original soft) and replacing soon.
Just an update to my personal situation. I own a '94 semi auto top and followed Fly's instructions here on the install. I had a few different variables including special screws instead of rivets in the window guides on the C-pillars (maybe someone was in here before but I had the original top with relief pockets and there were original rivets on some of the top tie down straps). I did end up replacing my tension straps with aftermarket eBay ones which required some extra steps. In my opinion there was no way 23 y/o tension straps were going to pull a new fabric top into position with any strength or reliability. And the new top does go up and down now without help from the driver. I went with the Haartz Stayfast top from Diamond Mall (EZ on top with plastic retainers). I did note that several of the retainers had misaligned screw holes for the side window channels and front header bow. And the factory top I removed had oval/oblong holes to more easily facilitate aligning the canvas to the hardware mounts. I simply punched/drilled new holes where needed and trimmed some of the excess plastic retainers to better fit the window channels. Other than that, Fly's instructions were spot on. And the new top looks so much nicer. Also no worries going with the Stayfast over the Twillfast fabric. It looks and feels very high quality and is the more affordable option. The extra money for the plastic retainer tops is well worth it in terms of saved time and frustration during the installation.
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