Orange Gear/Sprocket + Exclamation Warning Light

[tinkerman]

I have a 2007 320i (E90) with just under 40k km. Original owner.

During the past year or so, I’ve been driving less than previous years(subway is actually faster within Seoul). From about a year ago, when I start the engine, the orange gear/sprocket + exclamation warning light would briefly appear then go away. This happened infrequently and irregularly so I thought it might be due to the car sitting for prolonged periods without being ridden, and the engine lacking oil in the gears, or something along those lines. BC Checks always result with an ‘OK’ (No CC ID left).

Then, the left halogen angel eye bulb went out, and I replaced both with LED units. This seemed to remove the warning light for a while, but it returned. I noticed that very infrequently and irregularly the LED angel eyes on both sides would flicker briefly at high frequency after the engine is started, even when no lights are switched ON, making me think that there may be some sporadic ‘electrical noise’(?)*.
--Update--
*This flickering of LED 'Angel Eyes' is caused by the car's PWM(Pulse Width Modulation) electrical testing to check for operation of the 'bulbs' initially upon turning ignition ON, and is not noticed with the original halogen bulbs(and their slower ON/OFF response time), but with LEDs is noticeable because of their faster ON/OFF response to input power). The flickering should subside shortly after ignition has been turned ON. If not, then there may be problems with the LED assembly.
----------

In INPA I noticed the following errors:

< CAS >
A0B6 Interlock_PLOCK_Fehler
(Selector lever interlock signal, below threshold)
* The fault is not currently present but stored.

< FRM >
9318 RLS Grund: Dunkeheit aber Abblendlicht aus
(RLS Reason: Darkness but low beam)?
* The fault is not currently present but stored.

< Junction Box >
C80C ERR_DIAG_CAN_KOMMUNICATION
(?)
* The fault is not currently present but stored.

< Transmission >
No Errors (ever so far).

The other day I started the car in the morning and got the warning light. I took it for about a 2 hour drive then parked for lunch. After a quick lunch (perhaps half an hour or less), I started the car and there was no warning light. After an all day hike (after about 6 hours) I started the car and the warning light appeared again, then went away as always(leaves no CC ID, and BC Check results in ‘OK’, as always).

The transmission has never done anything unusual (go into ‘limp mode’, slip, shift hard etc.) and I can even use the Sport Mode and Steptronic features without any problems.

So far, my searches regarding the ‘A0B6’ error has led me (only) to information pertaining actually to transmission for MINIs R55 and R56 (Cooper, Cooper S) with F21 ASIN 6-speed automatic transmission stating:

“This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI M24 01 08 dated June 2008.
…
CAUSE I
Possibly an incorrect adjustment of the gearshift cable at the transmission selector level

CAUSE II
Defective Steptronic gearshift assembly

SOLUTION
On a customer complaint basis, adjust the gearshift selector cable according to Repair Instruction RA24 10 018. After the adjustment is performed, the M8 tightening nut of the transmission selector lever should torqued to 12 Nm.

On vehicles produced from 03/01/08 up to 03/31/08, in case fault codes A0B1/A0B6 are stored in the CAS module, the Steptronic gearshift assembly (P/N 25 16 7 577 589) should be replaced*. For the replacement procedure, refer to RA25 16 056, found in MINI TIS.
…”
--Update--
*This is NOT always true as it will be revealed in post #18
----------

Around July 2012, the dealer’s mechanic reinstalled software in my car via ISTA/P, which did not solve the issue, and the ‘advisor’ mentioned that the gearshift assembly may need to be replaced. I have no mechanical issues with the gearshift assembly, so I’m leaning towards the following:
1. ‘CAUSE I’ mentioned above.
2. Perhaps ‘sporadic voltage irregularity’ resulting in a ‘data communication bus error’, that in turn is triggering a false transmission error(?).
3. I’ve read in another forum a member mentioning various sensors potentially triggering false errors.

What do you think?

[KevinMullins]

Have you check for any "shadow" errors, maybe in the transmission section of INPA.
The gear and exclamation lights indicate a transmission error of sorts....but that could mean a number of things related to the tranny including electronics and mechanical.
Definitely think you're on the right path by looking into the A086 code more, but I'm not familiar with the newer cars at all.

[tinkerman]

Thanks KM. Yeah, I’m considering trying out the ‘adjustment of the gearshift cable at the transmission selector level’, for I have access to good instructions from TIS and Bentley references, and a suitable torque wrench for retightening. But hopefully I’ll be able to get some more input from others because a saying keeps popping up in my mind:

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
– some hillbilly mechanic in New Hampshire, according to a friend.

[David Mc]

This warning lamp can be temporarily illuminated for a number of reasons. Basically, whenever there is a problem that causes the DSC/Traction control to be activated. Practical examples I have encountered include problems with one or more wheel sensors (can be identified by diagnosing the ABS system with INPA) and even radically out of whack tyre pressures (which result in one wheel being more difficult to turn than another). Moral of the story, check tyre pressures and diagnose the ABS system before looking for more sinister causes.

[tinkerman]

That’s very interesting you mention ‘out of whack tire pressures’, because for quite a long time before I recently replaced my OEM run flats with regular sports tires, I had the right-rear run flat tire running with 2 ‘sticky worm’ flat fillers (sorry, not sure what they’re officially called in English), although I know it is NOT recommended by BMW, and did NOT keep an eye on the tire pressure thinking, “oh, that tire pressure sensor somewhere will catch it if the pressure gets too low”. I did not know until recently, that my car does NOT have the active TPM(Tire Pressure Monitor) sensor and that it uses the ABS(wheel rotation) sensors to determine if a particular wheel is rotating faster to assess relative tire pressure change. The tire pressure change in the right-rear (flat filled) tire was so gradual, and due to the run flat maintaining tire shape, I think it was not triggering the tire pressure warning light, but it could have occasionally caused the temporary gear+exclamation warning light, since it would have been “more difficult to turn than another”. Still odd that the warning light would only appear briefly upon starting the engine, then be gone without leaving a CC ID.

I’ve not yet checked out the DSC system with INPA because it has always worked flawlessly. I’ll check if there are any errors in the DSC module, delete any if there are, do another reset of the tire pressure monitoring, then be back with results after some drivin’.
Thanks David!

[IcemanBHE]

Also can happen if tires are out of spec size wise. There is a narrow band from OEM spec.

I use within 3% of spec on each axle, and no more than 5% between axles.

[KevinMullins]

Basically, whenever there is a problem that causes the DSC/Traction control to be activated.

Are you thinking of the other light David?

(I know this may not be the right dash, just looking at the symbols)

[David Mc]

No, all the systems are related. I should mention however that the last E46 I saw with this problem was a 318i which began random activation of the warning light before the auto tranny crashed completely due to worn clutches - the car only threw an occasional plausibility error code on the EGS but experienced occasional infrequent transmission slip between 1st and 2nd gear initially and would not change up reliably. If the car has been driven hard or there are other symptoms this could also be on the cards. The tranny finally gave out only a couple of months after the initial problems.

[KevinMullins]

Dang it David, why you gotta describe exactly what my E39 is doing on occasion. Lol
(230K+ miles and only really happens when I drive it hard)

[David Mc]

When I saw what happened to the E46 I immediately drained all the fluid from my E36 and also changed the transmission oil filter. The tranny had the green "filled for life" fluid (which is not compatible and cannot be substituted) - if you buy it from a BMW or VW dealer it costs megabucks but the actual fluid is Esso LT71141, which from memory is distributed by Exxon or Mobil in the USA and cost me around A$200 here for a five gallon drum (i.e. 2 changes). The E36 still drives and changes like new with 214k kilometres (about 140k miles). I now change the fluid in all my BMW automatics every 60000 miles.

[tinkerman]

After clearing all previous errors, checking for good tire pressures, resetting 'tire pressure monitoring', and taking a drive, I still got the ‘gear + !’ initially upon the following engine start, then it turned off after several seconds. I checked with INPA, and the only error(fault code) that has been generated is:

< CAS >
A0B6 Interlock_PLOCK_Fehler
(Selector lever interlock signal, below threshold)
* The fault is not currently present but stored.

I did some research into ‘shiftlock’ & ‘interlock’, and found some interesting leads. The following info is from BMW’s training guide for ‘E90 Powertrain’ (pages 14 and 16).

“Shiftlock
The shiftlock function prevents the vehicle from inadvertently being placed in gear with the ignition on, unless the brake pedal is depressed. A solenoid is used to lock the shift lever in position P or N once the ignition is switched off and the lever has been placed into position P or N. The solenoid is activated by a switched ground signal from the Transmission Control Module

Interlock
The interlock function prevents removal of the remote control “key” when the selector lever is not in position P . The selector lever remains locked in position P if the remote control “key” is not inserted in its slot. For this purpose, the selector lever is locked in position P by two electric magnets once the ignition is switched off.

Interlock Without Comfort Access
The selector lever is locked in position P after ignition OFF and the radio remote control “key” can be removed.
The microswitch on the selector lever unit monitors the lock state of the selector lever and sends the signal to the CAS to release the radio remote control once the selector lever is in position P. ”
Interlock.jpg

As all the functions mentioned above are working, yet an error is triggered in CAS, I am suspicious of the ‘microswitch’ (No.9 in the circuit diagram).
Microswitch.jpg

Does anyone have any experience, photo, drawing, further info etc. regarding this ‘microswitch’?

I recall reading somewhere someone mentioning replacing a ‘sensor’(for around $100?) associated with the shift assembly that resolved the warning light issue, and without replacing the entire shift assembly(for several hundred dollars) which mechanically is perfectly fine.

[KevinMullins]

Looking at that second diagram and a few other references it should be right around the shift lever itself. I'd pop the covers off and take a look. A microswitch should be relatively obvious.
http://forums.5series.net/e60-discus...-fault-114100/

[tinkerman]

This warning lamp can be temporarily illuminated for a number of reasons. Basically, whenever there is a problem that causes the DSC/Traction control to be activated. Practical examples I have encountered include problems with one or more wheel sensors (can be identified by diagnosing the ABS system with INPA) and even radically out of whack tyre pressures (which result in one wheel being more difficult to turn than another). Moral of the story, check tyre pressures and diagnose the ABS system before looking for more sinister causes.

David, could you elaborate a bit further regarding 'diagnosing the ABS system with INPA'. Should I be looking under DSC? If so, which function/window should be accessed, and how is a wheel sensor determined to be problematic?

- - - Updated - - -

Looking at that second diagram and a few other references it should be right around the shift lever itself. I'd pop the covers off and take a look. A microswitch should be relatively obvious.
http://forums.5series.net/e60-discus...-fault-114100/

Thank you so much for the encouragement and link. I had recently used DIS regarding the A0B6 fault code, and it showed some pictures of the interlock mechanism. I've been contemplating whipping off the shifter's boot to check if all is well. The link's info should help a lot. I just saw the 'microswitch' photo - Thanks again KM!!!

[mdraco79]

So did you fix the warning light? I've been having similar problem with my E93 M3. DSC failure light together with Start assistance warning light and it is happening more frequently than before. I can clear the errors in INPA but it will pop up again later.

when it has warning lights, in INPA, CAS has A117, A0B0 and A11B
in DSC, 5DD2, 5DD0 AND 5E18 errors is showing up.

[David Mc]

If you check the ABS with INPA, there is an option to display the outputs from each individual wheel sensor, which will immediately alert you if there is a problem with one of them.

[RikiZee3]

Hey Guys. My DSC light came on as well. How hard are these tire speed sensors to replace?

[David Mc]

Pull the codes before you start replacing parts, I have heard of other issues affecting the DSC on Z3's.

[tinkerman]

Apologies if I kept anyone waiting for a results update. I’ve waited to make sure I am certain before posting ‘my results’.

Thanks to the ‘hillbilly mechanic’ in New Hampshire, for indeed I didn’t have to replace a perfectly fine transmission or gear shift assembly.

Thanks to KevinMullins for the ‘MrSingh’ link regarding the microswitch in the gear shift assembly.

Thanks to DavidMC(and Iceman BHE) for clarifying that the warning light can be caused by many issues, other than the tranny or other more common culprits.

And the BUGGER was… the MICROSWITCH!

Unlike MrSingh’s case in which the metal lever on the plastic microswitch had fallen off, in my setup, the metal lever was intact, but it seems that the metal lever had gradually ‘fatigued’ (slightly bowing/bending outward) and not pressing the button or nipple of the microswitch enough. This gradual ‘fatiguing’ would explain the gradually more frequent appearance of the warning light.

There was no mention of this particular issue in TIS, Bentley service manual, nor DIS, so here is a step by step guide(with newbies in mind) to maintenance of the gear shifter assembly’s microswitch, to resolve the A0B6 fault code in CAS and the gear + exclamation warning light that is NOT caused by the gear shift cable or the tranny etc., and which only appears briefly on the center dash upon turning the ignition ON.

*Note: the following is based on an E90, numbered steps are elaborated with ‘-‘(dashed) steps below.
< Center Console Preparation >
1. Pull out the shifter’s ‘knob’.
- Check that the parking/side brake is pulled up(ON).
- Place key(remote) into ignition slot and enable ‘Terminal 15’(Engine OFF but Ignition ON – by pressing start button without stepping on brake), to release shifter from ‘Park’ and shift to ‘Neutral’.
- Once the shift lever is released from ‘Park’ and adjusted to ‘Neutral’, the ignition can be turned OFF, but the key will not release from the socket(so leave it in there for the time being).
- Press the shifter knob’s ‘trigger button’ and pull upward. DO NOT TWIST THE KNOB while pulling upward, for it will damage/strip the plastic core rod of the knob.

2. Pull out the leather boot/gaiter and plastic trim(with the PRND display) carefully.
- The leather boot/gaiter can be pulled out first, or both the leather boot/gaiter and the plastic trim can be pulled out together.
- DO NOT YANK like starting a chain saw or lawn mower.
- I left the leather boot in place, reached in under the plastic trim, and gave gentle tugs upward, gradually applying more dispersed pressure until one of the hooks released. Then I gently moved around applying gentle pressure to lift the plastic trim.

3. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the under side of the trim.
Red_1.JPG

4. Pull off the large center console trim(wood patterned cover).
- Use an old credit card or similarly/relatively soft thin plastic to pry between the large plastic trim and leathery base.
- I started by popping up the rear section, then applied dispersed pressure on both sides while lifting upwards, gradually moving towards the front.
*Note: I don't have the iDrive controller(fancy control knob & buttons between the shifter and center arm rest) so I can't comment regarding precautions to take when removing the large center console trim(cover). Please take any necessary precautions.

5. Disconnect the cigarette lighter’s electrical connector towards the front left underside(opaque white connector), by squeazing the hook levers on the left & right sides of the connector.


< Torx T30/T10 Screws and 2 Connectors >
1. There are three T30 screws to undo (2 in front, 1 in rear)
- Removal is necessary for tilting the assembly towards the left so that the three T10 screws/right side plastic cover can be disassembled.
*Note: In the photo the front-right T30 screw head is behind/below the red marked ‘lever’. Pressing this red point down releases the shifter from ‘Park’.
T30 Screws.jpg

2. On the right side cover, there is a blue connector which can be pulled out sideways to the right by slightly lifting the top side tab. Disconnect the blue connector.
3. Below where the blue connector is, there is another black connector. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the front side connector forwards to disconnect.
T10 Screws.jpg

4. Tilt the shifter assembly towards the left enough to access the three T10 screws on the right side panel, and remove the screws.
5. Make a note or take a picture of the arrangement of the lower set of wires on the right side cover(for later reference during reassembly), then clear away the wires/connectors to remove the right side cover.


< Microswitch >
Towards the front right side of the gear shift assembly, the microswitch will be visible. The shifter has a mechanically extended horizontal bar that moves back and forward along with the shifter. When the shifter is pulled back and out of ‘Park’ the bar is pulled back and the microswitch is ‘open’, but when the shifter is pushed forward into ‘Park’ the bar pushes the lever of the microswitch which in turn should push a small button/nipple of the microswitch to ‘closed’ position.

Red_32.JPG

I noticed that in the ‘closed’ postion, the metal lever was slightly bowed(‘U’ shape) outward. Thinking that this ‘fatigue’ in the lever may have been causing the microswitch’s button/nipple to not be pressed fully, I gave the lever a slight bend inward so that the button/nipple would get slightly more push inward.

Red_42.JPG

The bent lever reinforcement of the gear shift assembly’s microswitch and/or perhaps the disconnection/reconnection of the wires, has resolved the ‘Gear & Exclamation Warning Light’.

Hopefully this will save many folks from unnecessary expensive replacements of the gear shift assembly or tranny in the future(as long as they "ain't broke").

[KevinMullins]

Awesome job. Glad it indeed turned out to be just that simple.

[David Mc]

Nice write up, thanks for taking the time to share your solution with others.

[vr6piloot]

Thank you, thank you, thank you . I had the same problem, googled it, came here, read your story, and mine wasn't bend but it was square so it didn't touch the nipple at all!

[Jub3box]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and have the same problem. Googled it like others before me and got here. This is a great write up thanks tinkerman and co. I have a couple of questions, is this applicable to ZF transitions and would the process be similar in an E92? Also would the problem become terminal if I leave this intermittent error message upon start up as by the sounds of things it's just a microswitch that determines what gears have been selected? Please advise, thanks in advance

[cdguider]

Great write up. I had a dime preventing rod from making contact with the metal....Will post pictures later, Now I have to put all this back together because a dime made its way down there.

Removed the dime rod slid about 1/2 inch. Problem Fixed.

No More Orange Gear.....


Thank you all for your help...

Dime-Location.jpg

Picture is after I removed the dime. Dime was flat against that location. Used needle nose pliers to remove......

[nelsonjmbf]

does anyone know what the light that's just a triangle with exclamation point in middle of it is for on an e60? it's been on since i got the car an i have inpa as well as ista an any codes the car has thrown have been cleared but the symbol is still there

[cheechbangs]

Apologies if I kept anyone waiting for a results update. I’ve waited to make sure I am certain before posting ‘my results’.

Thanks to the ‘hillbilly mechanic’ in New Hampshire, for indeed I didn’t have to replace a perfectly fine transmission or gear shift assembly.

Thanks to KevinMullins for the ‘MrSingh’ link regarding the microswitch in the gear shift assembly.

Thanks to DavidMC(and Iceman BHE) for clarifying that the warning light can be caused by many issues, other than the tranny or other more common culprits.

And the BUGGER was… the MICROSWITCH!

Unlike MrSingh’s case in which the metal lever on the plastic microswitch had fallen off, in my setup, the metal lever was intact, but it seems that the metal lever had gradually ‘fatigued’ (slightly bowing/bending outward) and not pressing the button or nipple of the microswitch enough. This gradual ‘fatiguing’ would explain the gradually more frequent appearance of the warning light.

There was no mention of this particular issue in TIS, Bentley service manual, nor DIS, so here is a step by step guide(with newbies in mind) to maintenance of the gear shifter assembly’s microswitch, to resolve the A0B6 fault code in CAS and the gear + exclamation warning light that is NOT caused by the gear shift cable or the tranny etc., and which only appears briefly on the center dash upon turning the ignition ON.

*Note: the following is based on an E90, numbered steps are elaborated with ‘-‘(dashed) steps below.
< Center Console Preparation >
1. Pull out the shifter’s ‘knob’.
- Check that the parking/side brake is pulled up(ON).
- Place key(remote) into ignition slot and enable ‘Terminal 15’(Engine OFF but Ignition ON – by pressing start button without stepping on brake), to release shifter from ‘Park’ and shift to ‘Neutral’.
- Once the shift lever is released from ‘Park’ and adjusted to ‘Neutral’, the ignition can be turned OFF, but the key will not release from the socket(so leave it in there for the time being).
- Press the shifter knob’s ‘trigger button’ and pull upward. DO NOT TWIST THE KNOB while pulling upward, for it will damage/strip the plastic core rod of the knob.

2. Pull out the leather boot/gaiter and plastic trim(with the PRND display) carefully.
- The leather boot/gaiter can be pulled out first, or both the leather boot/gaiter and the plastic trim can be pulled out together.
- DO NOT YANK like starting a chain saw or lawn mower.
- I left the leather boot in place, reached in under the plastic trim, and gave gentle tugs upward, gradually applying more dispersed pressure until one of the hooks released. Then I gently moved around applying gentle pressure to lift the plastic trim.

3. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the under side of the trim.
Red_1.JPG

4. Pull off the large center console trim(wood patterned cover).
- Use an old credit card or similarly/relatively soft thin plastic to pry between the large plastic trim and leathery base.
- I started by popping up the rear section, then applied dispersed pressure on both sides while lifting upwards, gradually moving towards the front.
*Note: I don't have the iDrive controller(fancy control knob & buttons between the shifter and center arm rest) so I can't comment regarding precautions to take when removing the large center console trim(cover). Please take any necessary precautions.

5. Disconnect the cigarette lighter’s electrical connector towards the front left underside(opaque white connector), by squeazing the hook levers on the left & right sides of the connector.


< Torx T30/T10 Screws and 2 Connectors >
1. There are three T30 screws to undo (2 in front, 1 in rear)
- Removal is necessary for tilting the assembly towards the left so that the three T10 screws/right side plastic cover can be disassembled.
*Note: In the photo the front-right T30 screw head is behind/below the red marked ‘lever’. Pressing this red point down releases the shifter from ‘Park’.
T30 Screws.jpg

2. On the right side cover, there is a blue connector which can be pulled out sideways to the right by slightly lifting the top side tab. Disconnect the blue connector.
3. Below where the blue connector is, there is another black connector. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the front side connector forwards to disconnect.
T10 Screws.jpg

4. Tilt the shifter assembly towards the left enough to access the three T10 screws on the right side panel, and remove the screws.
5. Make a note or take a picture of the arrangement of the lower set of wires on the right side cover(for later reference during reassembly), then clear away the wires/connectors to remove the right side cover.


< Microswitch >
Towards the front right side of the gear shift assembly, the microswitch will be visible. The shifter has a mechanically extended horizontal bar that moves back and forward along with the shifter. When the shifter is pulled back and out of ‘Park’ the bar is pulled back and the microswitch is ‘open’, but when the shifter is pushed forward into ‘Park’ the bar pushes the lever of the microswitch which in turn should push a small button/nipple of the microswitch to ‘closed’ position.

Red_32.JPG

I noticed that in the ‘closed’ postion, the metal lever was slightly bowed(‘U’ shape) outward. Thinking that this ‘fatigue’ in the lever may have been causing the microswitch’s button/nipple to not be pressed fully, I gave the lever a slight bend inward so that the button/nipple would get slightly more push inward.

Red_42.JPG

The bent lever reinforcement of the gear shift assembly’s microswitch and/or perhaps the disconnection/reconnection of the wires, has resolved the ‘Gear & Exclamation Warning Light’.

Hopefully this will save many folks from unnecessary expensive replacements of the gear shift assembly or tranny in the future(as long as they "ain't broke").

Hay thanks for the explanation/description you gave in relation to the AOB6 code error. I just wanted to ask you (because I have the same code error AOB6 and message everytime I start my bmw) do you think that the same problem could apply to my 2006 525i e60 automatic sedan?? I noticed yours is an e90?? Thanks and any advice is appreciated. Cheers

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