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Thread: my build thread, e30 with a 9 inch

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    urbee, the worlds first 3d printed car. I helped weld the body panels together



    http://www.wired.com/autopia/2013/02/3d-printed-car/
    It is funny that I was reading C/D today and saw a picture of Urbee and Stratasys was mentioned too,as part of the "Science non-fiction" articles.
    Great job

  2. #202
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    86 325es
    Quote Originally Posted by bawareca View Post
    It is funny that I was reading C/D today and saw a picture of Urbee and Stratasys was mentioned too,as part of the "Science non-fiction" articles.
    Great job
    thanks, by I didn't have much to do with that one. I hot air welded the body sections together but I didn't do any of the engineering work


    I havn't updated for awhile so I'll try to catch up. I've been working on finally finishing the rollcage. Since I now have room after removing the hvac system I decided to put in a dash bar. NHRA only requires a dash bar for cars with a modified firewall, but I decided to add it anyway. Bent it up with my trusty harbor freight pipe kinker. You cannot use one of these to build a cage as they crush and kink steel tubing, but they actually do a reasonable job on smaller diameter tubing if you keep the bend under about 20 degrees.



    door bars in







    I am lazy so I made a 3d printed guide to make the angles where the door bars meet the uprights.





    Ever seen swing up door bars? I think I may have invented them. According to NHRA the door bar pivot points can be a maximum of 8" from the main hoop. Since my main hoop is behind the b pillar I would have to notch out the door frame to make the door bars swing out. In case you are wondering I did clear this through NHRA. They consulted with one of there structural engineers and they said it would meet there safety requirements.



    They can also be folded down along the rocker for daily driving.



    They just touch the door pulls when closed, but the map pockets had to go.



    I really want to get a set of krikey's, but there not in the budget for a bit.




    - - - Updated - - -

    Also been working a bit on the clutch hydrolics. The T56 uses an internal hydrolic throwout bearing. I chose to try a stock one out of an ls1 camaro. They use a stupid push lock type fitting typical of GM garbage at the slave cylinder. In order to adapt to the stock master cylinder I chose to get rid of this and just run a universal stainless AN brake hose. To get the fitting out you just tap out the roll pin and it comes right out. In this pic I've cut it in half.



    I had to turn about .050" off the od in order to thread it to 1/8th ntp. There is also about enough diameter to tap it female to 1/8th ntp which would probably be easier as it is steel.






    - - - Updated - - -

    Spent the last 5 hours selling my father in laws car. errrr

    I did get the mark williams yoke intstalled on the driveshaft. Billet chromoly goodness.



    Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 12:54 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  3. #203
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    Twin turbo LS E36 M3
    one of the coolest part about this story is seeing you progress in your career/life. Sick car man

  4. #204
    Join Date
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    Cage is looking good, Perry. When do you anticipate wrapping her up? Do you plan on making any passes this season? I sent you an email too.

    Ryan
    OLD
    E30

    636whp
    1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblI

    NEW BUILD
    335d

    520whp
    635wtq
    120.51mph trap speed




  5. #205
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    thanks ryan, I would like to have it done in about a month. I'll be moving within the next couple months so I'd like to be done before then. But you know what they say about plans.

    I was up till 6 AM finishing porting my head. So once I clean it up the motor will be ready to go together.



    Did this this afternoon. I'm cleaning everything up and I'll be cutting off the rest of the unused mounting brackets and things and then I'll be painting it up.

    Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 12:58 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  6. #206
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    Updates on the porting job if you don't mind?



  7. #207
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    Dumb question, but do u recommend a torque plate when doing a diy hone with a drill/dingleberrys ?

  8. #208
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    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Robocop View Post
    Dumb question, but do u recommend a torque plate when doing a diy hone with a drill/dingleberrys ?
    No. Torque plates are only for rigid hones.
    Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 12:59 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post


    - - - Updated - - -



    No. Torque plates are only for rigid hones.
    Shiny black engine bay!



  10. #210
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    Last edited by someguy2800; 11-15-2017 at 04:39 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  11. #211
    Join Date
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    98 m3
    The proper accessory for your 9"...

    image-1271766335.jpg
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  12. #212
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    Bima
    Where are the mounting brackets for your radiator support??

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    The proper accessory for your 9"...

    image-1271766335.jpg
    wow, just wow.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robocop View Post
    Where are the mounting brackets for your radiator support??
    I will take some better pictures as I am putting it together.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  14. #214
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Renton, Wa
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    98 m3
    Haha you know I'm kidding right..
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  15. #215
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    none
    He is not kidding.

  16. #216
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    I don't think it would go with the bull horns I'm gonna bolt to the hood.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  17. #217
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Renton, Wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colby Colbs View Post
    He is not kidding.
    ???
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  18. #218
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    norcal
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    a few e30s
    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post

    ???
    Rofl colbs got you.

  19. #219
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    1997 BMW 328i
    man.. i wish i had your set of knowledge and skills!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Follow my builds on youtube and IG.

    www.youtube.com/thenameskam

    @thenameskam on IG

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kame36sedan View Post
    man.. i wish i had your set of knowledge and skills!
    only one way to get it. My dad built the house I grew up in. I asked him once how did he know how to build a house? He replied, "I didn't. But I decided I wanted to do it so I went to the library and started reading books." Thats about the only thing I ever learned from my father. If you want to do something you just have to commit yourself to doing it and figure it out from there. Between books and the internet, you can learn how to do just about anything.

    - - - Updated - - -

    head is together. staring on the block now.




    Here is how to getting the keepers on the valve stems without swearing and or using 5 sets of hands. Put a dab of white grease on the end of the valve stem to hold the keepers in place. Use a stick magnet or magnetic tip screwdriver to pick up the keeper and drop it in place. The keepers will stick to the grease so you can now rotate it around to the other side of the valve and put the second one in. It will stay in place even upside down.



    - - - Updated - - -

    Also for those that havn't seen them, this is what the non vanos m50 dual valve spring set looks like. It is actually the same springs, retainers, and keepers as in an m20b25. They even use the same valve seals. The two piece spring seat and the installed height is a bit different though. I made the ghetto spring compressor about 7 years ago when building my first m20. I couldn't find a compressor that would fit on an m20 so I just made this. It works great and I prefer it to most of the commercial ones I've used.

    Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 01:04 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  21. #221
    Join Date
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    Location
    Stafford, VA, US
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post

    only one way to get it. My dad built the house I grew up in. I asked him once how did he know how to build a house? He replied, "I didn't. But I decided I wanted to do it so I went to the library and started reading books." Thats about the only thing I ever learned from my father. If you want to do something you just have to commit yourself to doing it and figure it out from there. Between books and the internet, you can learn how to do just about anything.

    - - - Updated - - -

    head is together. staring on the block now.



    Here is how to getting the keepers on the valve stems without swearing and or using 5 sets of hands. Put a dab of white grease on the end of the valve stem to hold the keepers in place. Use a stick magnet or magnetic tip screwdriver to pick up the keeper and drop it in place. The keepers will stick to the grease so you can now rotate it around to the other side of the valve and put the second one in. It will stay in place even upside down.
    So far ive learned a ton from your thread! Keep the good info coming for sure.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Follow my builds on youtube and IG.

    www.youtube.com/thenameskam

    @thenameskam on IG

  22. #222
    Join Date
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    Suffolk, Virginia
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    5,294
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    35D X5, 335d
    1+
    OLD
    E30

    636whp
    1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblI

    NEW BUILD
    335d

    520whp
    635wtq
    120.51mph trap speed




  23. #223
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    Spent the last few days with the wife. She just finished with her board exams so for the first time in 8 years she has nothing to study for. We are currently looking for a house up north with a shop.

    Assembled the short block tonight. Didn't take many pictures but here goes.

    Put the pilot bearing in first otherwise you will forget until you try to put the clutch on. The T56 has a different pilot bore than BMW so a different bearing is needed. Luckily it is a commonly available size.



    190,000 mile bearings going back in. Don't forget the oil squirters. I had just checked main bearing clearance using a dial bore indicator with the caps installed. This block had .002". I would prefer more but this will have to do.



    Checking crankshaft thrust clearance. My motor happened to have .004". Basically anything from .001-.010" is fine. You must have some clearance and should be able to feel the crank move front to back when you pull and push on it. You can also measure this as end play using a dial indicator.



    When your setting the crank in to check end play or on final assembly you need to align the thrust bearings. Set the crank in on the bearings and install just the thrust bearing cap, which is #6 on these. Tighten it down to seat the cap, and then back out the bolts so they are just finger tight. Now to align the thrust bearing first push the crank all the way back by hitting the snout of the crank with a deadblow hammer. This will force the cap to the rear. Now from the back of the crank force the cap forward by pushing the crank forward with a pry bar between the stand and the crank and align the thrust bearing faces with the back of the crank journal. This ensures maximum thrust contact when the crank pushes forward from the clutch spring.

    When you are going to put in the crank for the final time, put the rear main seal housing on the back of the crank before you drop it in. There isn't enough room to fit in on the engine stand after the crank is in. This way you can put on the oil pan while its still on the stand. For assembly lube I use a mixture of about 50-50 20w-40 motor oil and ultraslick assembly lube in a very old oil pump can. The ultraslick by itself is a bit too thick and sticky for my preference.



    The main bolts you see are just class 12.9 socket head cap screws. You can get them from any industrial supplier such as mcmaster carr for like 15 bucks. The stock bolts are class 10.9 which is basicaly equivalent to grade 8, or about 150,000 PSI tensile strength. Class 12.9 is about 176,000 PSI, which is very close to ARP's standard 8740 studs at about 180,000 psi. I use a CDI torsion beam torque wrengh like pictured below, which allows you to watch the dial and get a better idea of what a fastener is doing as you tighten it. You can watch it stretch and tell exactly where its starting to yield. Mine is recent military surplus and still has the army calibration sticker on it. On my torque wrench the stock bolts begin to yield at about 60-65 ft lbs when lubricated with motor oil, the class 12.9 will go to about 70. Your results my vary.



    I gap all my rings by hand using a file in a vise. I don't really care for the powered or hand crank ones. For this motor the top gap was set at 18 thou and the second at 22. Make sure you chamfer the ends of the rings after you file them. i made this little shelf to put in the vise for ring filing but after doing a few I found I prefer my tried and true method of holding the ring by hand. I'm using second rings scavenged from a couple different motors and top rings out of a non vanos. They are really nice chamfered moly filled rings. The newer stuff are chrome which I really dislike. Interestingly i've measured stock gap on probably 100 used stock rings and the gaps are all over the map. I have seen top rings anywhere from .011 all the way to .019, and second rings from .013 to .025" in the same motors. Running that tight is just asking to break a ring land.





    Whenever possible you should use a rod bolt stretch gauge for he best possible fastener preload. Rod bolts are subject to enormous G loads trying to pull the cap apart. This is the most accurate possible way to measure a bolts preload. For those that are not familiar, a rod bolt stretch gauge is a small fixture that measures the amount that the rod bolt stretches while you tighten it. If you know the elastic properties of the material used to make a bolt you can predict how much stretch is needed to reach maximum preload on a bolt without using a torque wrench. Here is a stretch gauge that I 3d printed. ARP rod bolts come with a machined in dimple in the top and bottom of the bolt for the gauge to rest in. Just turn the wrench until you get the specified stretch. In this case .0085"






    yep. Lots of other stuff done of course that I didn't document. Piston to wall had already been checked previously. Crank runout checked. Rod side clearance checked. All the ring lands in the pistons cleaned. Bearing crush checked. I went over the tops of the pistons with sand paper to chamfer some of the knife edges on the valve pockets. I also honed out all the pin bores on the pistons by hand with 800 grit paper to free them up a bit. The factory runs almost no clearance on the piston pins.




    Hopefully we'll get to start blowing it all up soon!
    Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 01:11 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  24. #224
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    I am hoping the motor last a very long time for you! BTW, what do you you think is the weak link in your motor?
    WOT

  25. #225
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    pistons. and no I don't think it will last very long. I have a 2.8 I would like to build this winter.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

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