Videos not werkin bruh
fixed I think. mabey? I dunno. The internets are confusing.
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Machining is done on the block. I had to put it in the mill at a funny angle in order to reach the whole block without moving it, and actually have something to clamp down on. I took off .013" at first and of course as luck would have it one of the screws in my flycutter backed out on the last pass and took a little gouge out. Had to take an additional .008" to clean that up, so now I will be ordering a .036" gasket rather than the .027". All good.
took it over to the granite surface table to put the final finish on it. This is my favorite way to finish heads and block. Very labor intensive but gives you whatever finish you want.
here is the finish after the machining
here is after 40 or so strokes on 220 grit paper. 120 grit will give you the perfect surface for a stock graphite gasket, 220 is about right for an mls just starting to be reflective, and 320 will give you a fully reflective surface if you so desire.
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I'm guessing about a 25 RA
Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 12:04 PM.
Im getting excited
I definitely need to stop by bimmerforums more often... builds like this are what I like to see!
Colby youtube suggests related videos based on your viewing history
So you just drag the block/head on a flat surface with sandpaper on it and
it's the same thing as resurface?
I need to try that.
How about garage floor?
Last edited by Robocop; 06-05-2013 at 09:21 PM.
if you do it on the garage floor then you don't even need sandpaper, just kick some gravel under it and go to town.
seriously yes you can resurface heads and blocks this way. Its alot of work and only suitable for removing .001"-.003". You need something absolutly flat, like a granite surface plate or a surface ground steel plate. Don't try it on the kitchen table. its not flat enough and your wife gets pissed.
Someguy2800 - I watched the video but it sounds like your engine is actually running. chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga ...... that's what it sounds like.
honed and cleaned the motor tonight.
I like to do this outside as it make mess all over. I start by thoroughly brushing out the motor to remove the varnish from the cylinder so it doesn't clog up my hone. Any type of hone needs to be constantly wet with oil to keep the stones from loading up. I like to use ATF so I wet down the cylinder and the hone between each cylinder. Use a constant speed and vary the stroking speed to get the correct cross hatch angle. I did a shitty job in the video but give me a break, its hard to do with one hand. This is a 240 grit stone.
Now this is really important. Once your done honing you need to brush out each bore with a nylon brush. When your honing some of the metal gets torn and folds over into the grooves. The nylon brush will grab at these folded metal pieces and pull them out. It makes a dramatic difference in bore finish that you can feel with your fingers. Also the nylon is slightly abrasive and will actually begin to plateau the peaks and valleys of the hone. I run the brush wet with ATF fluid for a couple minutes in alternating directions in each bore. Once your done you will visually see all the crosshatching but you should barely be able to feel anything with your finger. If it feels rough you didn't brush it long enough.
these flex hones will remove material so don't overdo it. In the video above I removed about .0003" of material. I ended up with a piston to wall clearance of about .0035", which is about where I wanted to be.
Next you need to chamfer the tops of the cylinder to break the sharp edge created by decking the block. It will keep you from cutting your fingers and damaging rings on install. Use some adhesive sandpaper on a plastic funnel and rotate it back and forth. Hi tech stuff today.
you can see the difference this make on the right
Now its time to clean, clean, clean clean! Scrub out each bore with the nylon brush again and a bucket of hot water and dish soap. Remember all that honing grit runs down in the oil channels so you need to flush it out before is sets up in there. Clean out all the oil channels with nylon pipe brushes. And blast them out with water from the hose.
Once your done use compressed air if you have it to blow out all the water. If you don''t have air then spray wd40 with a nozzle into all the oil pathways to flush out the water. Did you know that WD stand for water displacer? Soak all the machined surfaces in WD to draw the water out. Now on the cylinders, wet a clean towel with ATF and scrub out each cylinder. Since you cleaned it so well you would expect the rag to come out clean right? Wrong, it will come out dirty. The ATF pulls all the metal and abrasive particles out of the pores of the metal, don't know how, it just does. Try it if you don't believe me.
Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 12:07 PM.
How exactly does the positrac rear end on a Plymouth work? It just does.
Sorry, thats what the last bit reminded me of
Great post. I used to the flex hone on my engine, but I picked up some tips from your description.
I've got a 9 inch reading this thread (am I the first to make that joke?)
So inspiring! Definitely subscribed
Ahhhh what a champ
Thread got ghey quick.
Last edited by Butters Stoch; 06-14-2013 at 07:56 PM.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
that's not a 4088
Borg Warner s366. I sold the 4088 and my old manifold. New manifold is stainless long tube equal length twin scroll. Almost done with the front bank.
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almost done with bank one. Wife says to call it a day. I almost cut my thumb off with the band saw earlier which stopped work for a couple hours. The piece I was cutting grabbed and spun the tip of my thumb into the blade. Cut through my glove and about into my thumb. Be safe folks!
Last edited by someguy2800; 07-12-2018 at 12:08 PM.
When i read the title I was like... take a good car and make it a mustang hahah... but I read through it and very well done.... very cool.
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
lol, whats wrong with mustangs? the fox body is the best factory drag race platform ever built! Actually when I started this project I was considering putting the car back to stock and getting a fox body to transplant a boosted m50 into. Would have been easier and cheaper.
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