so glad you didnt go LS. hey how much do those rods weigh? probably less than NV rods. But "look" beefier than eagles, just curious. Keep it up!
I'm watching the kids today so only got a couple chances to sneak outside but I fixed the first head. I have a junk head on the shelf for parts so I made a pilot out of an old valve and core drilled out a valve seat with a hole saw that was just bigger than the OD of the valve seat.
Left the head on the grill for 15 minutes which got it up to about 150 deg F. I used a propane torch on the seat register to get that part of the head up to 300 F. Valve seat in a glass of ice water. It dropped in about half way on its own and I drove it home with a bearing driver.
It took about 30 seconds of lapping to get full contact, so I don't even need to get a valve job.
Nice progress - miss doing more mechanical stuffs
Man I feel that. The six year old can handle being on his own inside or outside but the one year old can't. Naptime is glorious, I can usually get an hour or two of work done. By the time they're both in bed at 8 I'm usually too beat to start something, so progress is hard.
She gonna make some steam now!!
Any reason you're going through the trans, or just to see what is going on in there, and because it's easy?
What kind of rear band are you going to use? I have a Coan carbon one in my trans right now, and I think it might be just a tiny bit noisy on the application and release, but nothing too horrible. Charlie at ATD told me they only use Kevlar ones.
Also, I wish I could remember what I restricted my converter feed down too, lol... I think I did .150". Are you opening your up a tad to get a bit more converter "bite"? (for lack of knowing the correct terminology for anything)
I put a Kevlar one in it. With my valve body the rear band is only on with the transbrake so it’s not highly stressed anyway. The cooler line pressure is a little low which is why I’m opening up the restrictor a bit. It’s usually about 50 psi, and my converter builder says 70-80 is ideal.
I enjoy this thread! Need more like this when people actually built shit. Nice work.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
'97 M3/4
I have to find out what that whole thing is about... Lol
I need a shot of that sticker next to my 4" side exit while it throws a foot long flame on overrun.
Long time without an update. Well I raced all of last year and the car worked great besides for an issue with the ecu that caused it to constantly loose crank sync under high load. Anytime I would run over 30 lbs of boost with any traction the ecu would shut off. Sometimes for just a moment and sometimes for several seconds. I chased it all summer but never found a solution. It seamed to be ignition related because changing dwell and spark gap would move the problem but I was never able to get rid of it. I changed balancers and trigger wheels several times, tried 2 differnt VR crank sensors, 2 different hall crank sensors, rewired it a couple times and changed ignition and noise filtering settings many times to no avail. I did run the car up to 45 lbs of boost for brief pulls but was afraid of hurting the engine with it cutting ignition so I never made any full passes with that much boost.
this was the fastest pass from last year. This was on a street legal night so I was ramping the boost from like 20 lbs to 32 or so.
I did go to a dyno day in October that a friend was hosting. At 34 lbs it made just over 800whp. Keep in mind that is through an auto trans with a 7000 rpm stall converter so its probably 25% drivetrain loss.
I did have three races I was scheduled to race later in the year but I decided to get my torque converter restalled. I sent that off and it took a month longer than their estimate to get it back so I missed all the races I was planning to go to.
So enough of the old, here is the new.
Hole for the new fender exit cuttout
Drive by wire throttle pedal. I'm a dum dum and didn't know that a drive by wire pedal for an E46 bolts right in so I got this pedal out of an 07 GMC accadia and made a bracket for it
Also I ripped out the old MS3pro ultimate and got a new ProEFI 128. Starting on wiring for that.
Very serious. Yet at the same time the basic engine is low buck. I like it.
Nice work!
That ECU is super capable. What tools are required to crimp the connector pins?
How did you finally determine that the MS3pro was at fault and what transpired to cause you to give up on that platform and go to Pro EFI 128? It must have been something major as that is a lot of work to rewire everything and learn a new ecu.
Hey just a heads up on those connectors the pin retention isn't designed to pull pins in and out constantly. You'll be able to reuse them multiple times but eventually they'll give you problems.
Usually solid for 5-6 times. People also mess the locks up trying to force them closed when pins aren't fully seated. If you want pins and connectors some day you can get them on waytek.
I can't really say it was the ecu's fault but something in the combination was not getting along together. I pretty much lost an entire season to this and after trying 3 different dampers with 4 different trigger wheels, 4 different sensors, rewiring the sensors twice, and much tinkering with the ignition system, it was time to do something different. As they say insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
That was only one factor though in wanting to get away from the MS3pro stuff though. Honestly after having now worked with several MS3pro installs and talking to others with them I just think they are junk. Every single MS3pro that I have worked with has had either hardware reliability issues, problems with sensor noise, ecu resets, or all of the above. Mine went back twice to get the injector drivers replaced under warranty. First I sent it back before I ever even installed it because they had a recall due the injector drivers going nuts and killing engines. Later when I actually did install it the car would not start because the injector drivers were dead and I had to send it back again and missed a couple races. I also have one high current output on mine that was dead when I installed it. I always had great results from the old MS1 and MS2 boxes, but after all the issues I've personally seen with them I think all the MS3pro stuff is trash. I would much rather have a Link.
The other thing is that the software development for megasquirt has just stagnated for the past several years. They have all these little things in the software that me and other people have been asking to be fixed and there is zero progress on any of it. Stuff like the transbrake bump functions, boost scramble, drive by wire, PWM fan control, the nitrous control stratagy, and especially the traction control. We have been asking for revisions to some of this stuff for a couple years and they don't do anything about it. I don't know what the developers are working on but as far as I am concerned for my application the development is completely dead. Now other systems like Link, Haltech, fueltech, and Holley give you features and control strategies that megasquirt just won't let you do. The MS traction control setup is basically useless on a drag car because it all works off slip percentage differential between front and rear wheel speed. This is a ridiculous way to do traction control because 10% tire slip at 30 mph is nothing at all and your killing all the power for no reason, but 10% tire slip at 150 mph is absolutely suicidal. The good traction control systems use wheel speed differential, not percentage.
So the reasons why I chose ProEFI was first and foremost the traction control strategies. ProEFI lets you do a driveshaft speed based traction control off the starting line, which compares driveshaft speed vs a time table to tell if the car is spinning. Its important to only use driveshaft speed off the line because the front tires are hopefully not touching the ground. Then at a pre determined speed it will switch over to differential wheel speed using front and rear wheel speed. Megasquirt can also do the driveshaft speed vs time, but you can only pick one traction control strategy, no switching. This does not work because if you spin once then you will be well below the traction control time table and the traction control won't work for the rest of the run. ProEFI also has anti wheelie stratagy that uses a tilt sensor to pull power out if the front end lift gets out of control. Also I wanted to switch to drive by wire which ProEFI natively supports and megasquirt does not. ProEFI also does cruise control which was on my list of stuff to add. ProEFI also lets you select like 4 different boost profiles on their CAN display. Megasquirt lets you do table switching, but if you do speed based boost control like I do you cannot switch boost by speed tables. And lastly I was using every single input and output on the MS3pro except I think 1, and I wanted to add more data and output functions.
Thanks for the heads up. I shouldn't have much need to take the pins in and out once its all in the car but I will keep that in mind.
Last edited by someguy2800; 03-30-2020 at 02:29 AM.
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