my build thread, e30 with a 9 inch

[someguy2800]

Whats the multiplex trick? Anybody know what happened to his car? Must still be out there somewhere.

[chikinhed]

How did the cam timing work out for you?

Sent from my GTX3582R

[someguy2800]

I actually just got back from driving it for the first time. My days are full of work and a baby. It still spools like a turd. On a third gear pull it makes 15 psi at about 4700, and 21 psi at around 5100. Its still workable for what I'm doing but its way worse than with the 240/240 cams. I want to say I had 21psi at around 4500 with those but it definitely is making more power now with the s52 intake cam.

[bubela]

Jay (multiplex) brought this little set up to my shop many moons ago. Helped find a few leaks in my ti.

His car was bought by someone who went with a bigger turbo and e85. I think he blew (at least) the gasket. I don't believe the owner works on the car so it's at the shop a lot. If I'm not mistaken, it's not driven much because it's often broken. I should have bought it. =(

Whats the multiplex trick? Anybody know what happened to his car? Must still be out there somewhere.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I actually just got back from driving it for the first time. My days are full of work and a baby. It still spools like a turd. On a third gear pull it makes 15 psi at about 4700, and 21 psi at around 5100. Its still workable for what I'm doing but its way worse than with the 240/240 cams. I want to say I had 21psi at around 4500 with those but it definitely is making more power now with the s52 intake cam.

Interesting about the spool w/ S52 cams... you're non-VANOS though right? Maybe advancing the intake cam (like VANOS would) would net you the spool that is typical?

[someguy2800]

Yes, I am non vanos. I am currently 5 crankshaft degrees advanced on the intake cam (vanos advances 24). My last setting was 10 degrees advanced and it felt about the same, but I also had a huge boost leak. I probably should have kept the vanos system in the car but it spooled so nice with the smaller intake cam that I never saw any need for it. I was just looking at one of my logs from yesterday. On my first try I had the boost solenoid plumbed backwards so no boost could get in the gate and it hit over boost protection at 26 psi @ 4850 rpm.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Yes, I am non vanos. I am currently 5 crankshaft degrees advanced on the intake cam (vanos advances 24). My last setting was 10 degrees advanced and it felt about the same, but I also had a huge boost leak. I probably should have kept the vanos system in the car but it spooled so nice with the smaller intake cam that I never saw any need for it. I was just looking at one of my logs from yesterday. On my first try I had the boost solenoid plumbed backwards so no boost could get in the gate and it hit over boost protection at 26 psi @ 4850 rpm.

Ah alright cool... I can only speak with my personal experience on my M52 w/ S52 Cams, but I certainly don't feel like my car is laggy considering the displacement and turbo choice (not sure if you seen the log I posted in my thread a week ago).

That said, oddly enough my friend just finished his M52 3L w/ S52 cams and a much smaller turbo (PT6262 BB) and I expected that thing to be a complete tire fryer yet it is no where near as violent as my car is. We're going to look into something is up IMO, but back to back ass dyno and how my car blows off 255's I was quite surprised to see it seemingly to spool slower (from the few logs I have).

[someguy2800]

I used to know somebody in Minneapolis with an S52 and a 6262JB at 15 psi. That car was extremely driveable, boost came on very progressively.

At 21 psi my car now breaks loose in third about 40% of the time on the street. That's with 14 psi in the radials. Its not bad enough that I have to pedal out of it, just enough to give me something to do with the steering wheel. Driving with a spool is awesome.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I used to know somebody in Minneapolis with an S52 and a 6262JB at 15 psi. That car was extremely driveable, boost came on very progressively.

Interesting... that's how I would describe the feeling in his car as well @ 15 PSI.

Not a fan lol, guess it's time to rethink the turbo choice.

[e30kid89]

Ah alright cool... I can only speak with my personal experience on my M52 w/ S52 Cams, but I certainly don't feel like my car is laggy considering the displacement and turbo choice (not sure if you seen the log I posted in my thread a week ago).

That said, oddly enough my friend just finished his M52 3L w/ S52 cams and a much smaller turbo (PT6262 BB) and I expected that thing to be a complete tire fryer yet it is no where near as violent as my car is. We're going to look into something is up IMO, but back to back ass dyno and how my car blows off 255's I was quite surprised to see it seemingly to spool slower (from the few logs I have).

Is it your buddy with the e30 vert??


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[NOTORIOUS VR]

Is it your buddy with the e30 vert??


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Yep, the green one

[e30kid89]

Yep, the green one

Nice! You guys should come out to the midnight cruise this Friday, I'm up and running again and wanna see some boosted brethren

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Nice! You guys should come out to the midnight cruise this Friday, I'm up and running again and wanna see some boosted brethren

Midnight cruise eh? Where/when? Shoot me a txt...

I'm heading to Cayuga on Friday to help my buddy with the S1000RR I tuned to his is goal so not sure I will be able to make it at this point.

[someguy2800]

Went to the local strip tonight for another street legal drag. Track was pretty good but had a couple issues with the car. I ran a half dozen 10.2 passes at 140-142. 21 lbs of boost.

Then I go around for another pass and the car won't restart in the staging lanes. No power to the ecu. So I pushed it out of the way and looked at the fuse and relays. The little 15 amp fuse for the main relay was melting the plastic case and the main relay was dead. I pulled my fan relay and put it in the main relay and drove the car into town to try to get another relay. Napa had nothing to fit so they gave me a couple spade connectors and a piece of wire and I just jukmped the fan relay on and left the fan relay in the main relay spot and went back to the track. After that I started trying to launch it a bit harder but the track was starting to go. They ran all night without doing any more prep. I got one good pass in at 10.16 @ 142.5 with a 1.58 60 foot. After that I kept spinning at the top of first and through second. Best 60 foot of the night was 1.55 but that was an aborted pass.



The bigger issue is that somewhere along the line the car started burning oil out the exhaust pretty hardcore. After the first time it did it I went for another drive up the road and it mostly quit, but it still smokes pretty bad when you rev it up at idle. Hoping it just needs some new seals on the turbo. It doesn't smoke at all driving down the road and I couldn't see any in the mirror going down the track.

Here is a crappy cell phone video a random person at the track took.



I have a couple in car videos I will upload tomorrow. They are pretty boring as the camera angle isn't great. I was told by a couple people that I was pulling the front tires but I have no evidence of that and I am pretty skeptical as it wasn't launching very hard.

[vollosso]

Nice passes man!!

Hopefully the ring lands are good! Mine let go after a while on a bit less boost from a 64mm.. Drove fine but iirc id get high-rpm/load smoke.

Into the 9s very soon!

[Nutzy]

Probs just the turbo. I had four broken upper rings that were in as many as 5 pieces and it didn't smoke the exhaust, under boost it just tried to blow the sump out the breather!

[someguy2800]

well I pulled the turbo off tonight and starting doing some digging. No oil in the charge pipe so its not the compressor seal. When I took the turbo off it had no oil in manifold on either side of the manifold. Pulled the plugs and #5 was a bit oily. Did a compression test and all 6 cylinders are good. Flowed the injectors and they were all good. Then I started it up with no turbo on the manifold and ran it till it was up to temp. It only smokes when you blip the throttle and it all comes from the back 3 cylinders. Pulled the intake and all 6 intake ports had a small amount of oil in them but not a ton. It smokes really bad some something has to be up in there. I think tomorrow I will pull the motor and take the head off and see what I can find. If I don't find anything obviously wrong I think I will give it a quick ball hone clean up and put some new valve seals in it.

[Nutzy]

Bluddy heck!

[someguy2800]

Bluddy heck!

No big deal. It just a motor. Will be fixed or replaced in no time. This isn't my first rodeo.

[futureroadracer]

No big deal. It just a motor. Will be fixed or replaced in no time. This isn't my first rodeo.

You the man!

60fts are looking much better!!!

[Butters Stoch]

No big deal. It just a motor. Will be fixed or replaced in no time. This isn't my first rodeo.

Ditto
I got "screwed" harder than you

[E36 HateR]

Sorry to hear about the engine, you work FAST lol, love how this is a streetable low 10 second e30 that has a bmw engine

Ditto
I got "screwed" harder than you

What do you mean?

[someguy2800]

I was hoping to get parts in saturday delivery to rebuild the motor tomorrow and put it back in, but I couldn't so I will have to wait till tuesday for a new head gasket and valve seals. Hopefully I don't find a cracked head or something when I get in there. I also just ordered an Achilles oil pump shaft, 8K shifting is just too much fun. Pretty cool, I ordered it at 4:30 there time today with overnight shipping, assuming that they would ship it on Tuesday. They called me 20 minutes later to apologize that I missed the shipping cutoff. I told him I don't really need it till wednesday or thursday but he offered to drive it to UPS to ship today anyway. How's that for customer service!

If everything goes alright I hope to have the motor back in thursday night and race on friday, smoke or no smoke!.

- - - Updated - - -

You the man!

60fts are looking much better!!!

Yeah I think I can really bring it down if I can hit the tires harder. I am launching at about 7000 and slipping the clutch through most of first gear. Right now my limitation is if I hit the tires too hard right away it will spin, and if I get into the gas to hard it spins as soon as the boost comes in. I think if I put some more anti squat in it and mabey a bit less air I will be able to hit the tires harder on the initial launch. Next Friday is a bracket test and tune so it will be the first time on a full prep track, if I can make it. The way the track started out on wednesday I think I could have gone 1.5 flat.

- - - Updated - - -

Also finally got the rest of my gear to go 9.99 legally. I'll give a quick review for others looking for SFI gear.



The helmet is SA2015 rated, which will be good till 2027 and made by Conquer. I was going to get a racequip one but found to good of a deal on this one. They have it on sale on Jet.com for $164 with free shipping plus if you register on there site you get 15% off so it comes out to like $140 shipped. Its actually a nice helmet. My only complaint is its impossible to open the visor with gloves on.

Jacket is from G-force and I've had it for a couple years. Its 3.2/5 rated. It pretty nice but the fabric is pretty stiff and it makes you look like a power ranger. It breaths very well and it not unbearable to wear on 85 degree days.

Pants are racequip 3.2/5. I only got them because they were the only black pants I could find without a stripe down the side. Also 3.2/5 rated. I am 6'3" and just a bit pudgy. I got a large and a Xlarge. The Large fit my waist but it was like wearing hipster skinny jeans and the legs were to short. XL was the right length but I could have fit a watermelon in the waist. I settled on the XL and broke out the sewing machine today and took in the waist about 4 inches. I don't understand why they don't have belt loops on these things.

The glooves are RJS 3.3/5 and they are fantastic. Made in the USA and very good quality materials.

Shoes are RJS 3.3/5. These are an older model I got for cheap on closeout. They are pretty cheap quality wise and the soles are hard so they sound like dress shoes on hard surfaces. I had bought a pair of racequip shoes which were much nicer quality but didn't fit. I have heard the newer RJS and Simpson shoes are very nice quality.

The neck collar is G-force and is not particularly nice, but I don't have any comparison.

Here is my best Stig's Minnesotan cousin impression



Last thing my harnesses are expiring this month so I got a new cam lock harness for the drivers side. My old harnesses were RCI latch link harnesses, which I was very happy with except I am tired of doing up the latch links all the time. I originally bought a set of G-force harnesses back in the day and returned them imediately because I thought the quality of the webbing and latch were very poor. I also tried a set of RCI platinum belts but didn't like the webbing. This set is from RJS and this is hands down the best harness I've ever had my hands on. The webbing is nice and the cam lock mechanism is very nice quality. I have tested out simpson and impact harnesses at shoes and I think these are far nicer. Also RCI will recertify them after two years for $50, and they are very inexpensive to buy.

[someguy2800]

Got the motor pulled out on Friday and rebuilt the bottom end yesterday. Its a good thing I took it apart when I did because the front main bearing was beat to death.




It had absolutely no tension left in the bore and it would have spun very soon.



I checked the crank and it is not bent so it was most likely caused by the crankshaft harmonics from all the 8K shifting. The bearing does not appear to be wiped or melted so it was not a lubrication issue. I replaced it with another pair of used oem bearings I had on hand. If it happens again I may have to lower the rev limit or look into a better bearing with more load capacity.

As for the smoking issue, I could find no damage to any rings or pistons. When I pulled them out the top and second ring land on every piston was filled with oil which would indicate to me that the oil control rings are not doing a sufficient job of removing oil from the cylinder walls. My theory is that the combination of high piston to wall clearance, the volume of oil being thrown up by the piston squirters, and the poorly designed windage tray in the E34 oil pan is overwhelming the oil control rings. In an effort to combat this I decided to plug all the oils squirters in the block. I'm not going to make any recommendations for or against this, just trying to fix the oil consumption problem in my specific case.

To plug them I drilled out all the squirter holes to 17/64, then tapped them for a 5/16-24 set screw.



To eliminate any possibility of them coming out I tapped all the holes shallow so there are some incomplete threads at the bottom of the hole. This way the set screws wedge into the hole like a tapered pipe fitting and the plugs cannot vibrate loose and fall out.



After cleaning everything up I installed the plugs with red lock tight and snugged them up.





While putting the short block back together I was having problem getting piston #4 back in and must have gotten a little to persuasive and ended up braking the facing off of the 2nd ring. First time Ive ever had that happen. I searched around in my parts boxes and found the ring from an M54b25 which was the same thickness so I gaped it and put it in. Short block is back together and waiting on the head gasket and oil pump shaft to get here.



Since I am waiting for engine parts I decided to go through the transmission and replace the 4th gear synchro. I hurt the synchro a couple years ago by trying to limp the car home with a clutch that wouldn't fully release due to a failing master cylinder. Should have just gotten it towed home lol. I was planning to do it this fall but decided to just do it now since it seams to be getting worse. Luckily Tremec is an American company and they design there stuff to be rebuilt and are happy to sell you any replacement part at very reasonable prices unlike our german friends.

The best manual for dissasembly I found was the factory ford service manual for a GT500. The process in the Ford and Tremec manuals is to stand the trans on end and disassemble from the rear forward. The order of gears in a T56 is reverse, 5th, 6th, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th. So I would have to do a complete tear down to get to 4th. I have been kind of looking forward to this as I have always wanted to take it apart, but I was also dreading it as I thought it would be a pain in the ass to get all the snap rings and little parts out.



The biggest pain was pulling the gears off. Reverse and 5th gear are pressed on. The synchro hubs were also a pretty tight fit. I had no problem at all getting all the retaining rings out. I did not have the correct external ring pliers but was able to modify a set of channelock snap ring pliers to work very well.




here is main case removed



all the parts layed out. As expected the synchro rings for 4th were wasted, but everything else looked brand new. Everything in this trans is just massive.






So a T56 magnum and the 6060's used in the gm/ford/dodge cars uses triple cone synchros on all gears including reverse, but for some reason they put carbon lined friction rings on only 2nd gear, and normal bronze rings on all the rest. The carbon lined rings are supposed to be an improvement in high RPM shifting and are strangely cheaper than the bronze rings, so I will be overnighting a set for 4th and 3rd tomorrow.

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/tr60...-kit-upgraded/

This was actually a fun project and I should have done it sooner. I expected this to be 8 hours of frustration and wrench throwing and having to make a bunch of tools but it only took like 2 hours to have it all apart. Of course after I was done I found a thread on a corvette forum describing how to take it apart from the front back, so if I would have done that I could have just popped the front cover off and been done in 15 minutes. Oh well, it was fun anyway.

[chikinhed]

A buddy of mine is running a T56 Magnum behind a twin turbo LSx. He smoked a normal T56, bought the Magnum and smoked it and has recently rebuilt it and added an oil pump to lube the forward gear set that burnt out of it the first time. With all the torque and all the oil being thrown to the back of the transmission during acceleration the gears got burnt and failed. You may want to do the same and add a pump.

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