Congrats!
Damn, big congratulations! You got the bulk of the work done on your car just in the nick of time.
Congrats!
Big "family" mod. :P
Congrats dude! The kids are where it's at.
TEC-3R, T4 GT40, WISECO, EAGLE, SUPERTECH, O-RING'D "FRANKENSTEIN" STROKER.
Are heated tracks a common thing?
Double congrats mi amigo!
Can't wait to see what that TH400 beast can do.
1989 E30 - M50B28 Turbo - ZF 8 Speed
Congrats!!
'97 M3/4
Congrats on the newborn!
Car seems OK too
Congrats!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Thanks all
Couple things I forgot to post about. The shifter that I chose to use in the car is a hurst promatic 2 ratchet shifter.
https://www.jegs.com/p/Hurst/Hurst-P...45831/10002/-1
Reason I chose this shifter is it is a full ratchet shifter from neutral to 3rd gear, has an NHRA approved reverse lockout, and unlike most ratchet shifters it does not have any levers or latches to pull in order to put it in park. To go from neutral to Park you just lift up on the shift lever and push it forward.
This video shows the shift pattern, except my trans would be PNN123
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KkQpa3vgJCs#
The idea was to fit this under the factory center console and not have any latches or anything showing. In order to fit it under the stock console I had to drop it down into the trans tunnel so I made a box to mount it into and cut a hole in the tunnel for it.
There was a couple things I did not like about this shifter. The handle was at a goofy angle and too short, and I did not like the shift gates on it. I took it apart to modify to my liking.
Here is the shifter disassembled.
Here is the shift gate. Park is on the upper right and the slot on the lower left would be to ratchet from neutral-1,2,3. I forgot to take a picture of it afterward but I reshaped these slots so in neutral you can just lift up the shifter and go straight to park without clunking through reverse. Same for going from park to neutral. On a transbrake th400 in order to put the trans in reverse you actually have to put the shifter in neutral and push the transbrake button, so you never use the reverse shifter position anyway.
For a shift handle I cut off the original and tig welded the stainless steel handle that I had laser cut for my T56 and angled it to get the shift position right.
Ma man!! Nice work!!
'97 M3/4
Here is the parachute mount. Its just a piece of 1-1/2 dom tube going through the rear bumper into the trunk and welded to my rear frame crossmember. There is a piece of 1-1/4 dom tube that telescopes inside it and acts as the actual mount so it’s removable by just taking out one bolt.
Here is where I F’d up. I just eyeballed the length without the bumper trim on.
shit
I had to cut out the bumper trim for the bolt to fit in and out because I’m a retard
The clevise for the drag line is made from a piece of rectangular tubing. It’s important that the drag line can rotate around the pin without friction or it will tear up the loop so I made an inner and outer sleeve and greased it so it rotates freely.
cable release handle
Rippin' off good times yet?
'97 M3/4
Impressive. Huge work done.
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
So glad to see you are still chugging away on this thing man - that motor you put together for me is still on the streets!
Picked up two more victims today. Pair of non vanos m50’s. One will get built to go in the car, current motor will be the backup, and the third will be a spare to go on the shelf till its turn comes up.
The bores on both of them gauge out less than half a tenth wear due to the moly faced rings that the non vanos motors used so I don’t even need to bore them. Just dingle ball hone them and drop the pistons in.
That's a great haul!
Did you have another kid!?
Starting to get this pile back in shape to fight. We start racing two weeks from today and I have some a small list of stuff to do before then.
First some electrical housekeeping. Last year while I was putting the car together I had some feature creep in the build by adding two stages of nitrous that I hadn't planned for, so my fuse and relay setup was getting overloaded. I had bought a small fuse and relay box in the glovebox but because of all the stuff that got added I had quite alot of circuits on each relay and fuse. Also I had an intermitent issue last year where the starter solenoid would not work when the car was warm. I traced that problem back to that there was too much resistance through my start button and the safety switch on the shifter to reliably put enough current to the starter solenoid to engage it. To fix all this I built a new fuse and relay board and relocated it on the firewall.
The new fuse and relay panel has room for 20 fuses, 15 mini relays, a time delay relay, and my two solid state relays for water/meth and transbrake. Now I have new relays for the starter solenoid, the vanos solenoid, both stages of nitrous, and for reliability I split the main relay, injectors, ignition, and the cooling fans to have two relays each. The fuse holders are just cheap ones from amazon, but for reliability all the relays are OEM toyota relays. The fuse holders are also cheap amazon parts. They have LED indicators to show if a fuse is blown.
I put it on the firewall just ahead of the MS3. Fuses and relays can be replaced by reaching through the glovebox. This location considerably cleaned up and shortened the wire harness. I also got the room back in the glovebox which will be nice. I made the loom going to it long enough to be able to pull the whole thing out between the cowl and the dash bar. The dash only takes maybe 15 minutes to pull should I need to rewire something.
Also got a new set of wheel to put my slicks on. They are Bassett dirt track steelies in 15x12 with a 5" backspace. Tires are the same 28x10.5W MT's I had on the old 15x10 rims. I put my old MT 325/50-15 radials on the 10's for the street.
Really like the look of the tires on the wider rims. It pulled the sidewalls out considerably and flattened out the tread face.
I've been working on getting the two junkyard heads I picked up ready. Before cleaning them up I ported the intake side on both of them. One I did a pretty mild bowl blend and opened up the area going past the guide, and the other I removed the guide hump entirely and opened up the bowl as I did on my current head.
After I got them pressure washed and started scrubbing off the carbon I found that one head had an exhaust seat that was pounded out at a weird angle. Turns out the valve from that cylinder was bent pretty badly and the previous owner just kept running it till it pounded the seat out to the same shape. Obviously that need to be fixed.
I tig welded a washer to the OD of the seat and pulled it out. Luckily the seat register is still round so I just need to get another seat, press it in, and get it recut.
Today I was cleaning up the other head and after removing the carbon I found an exhaust seat on that one that is pounded out as well. Notice the groove in the middle of the seat. This one will need to get fixed as well. I suspect this one is from a dead lifter letting the valve bounce on the seat for a long long time.
In other news I got the last of the parts for the new short block I am putting together. ZRP I beam rods and the same wiseco pistons I have in the old motor. I actually got 7 pistons, one to replace the damaged one that's in the current motor from the bent rod.
Also got this to put in at some point. Its a S476sx-e compressor cover and wheel to replace my current 72mm.
Last edited by someguy2800; 04-19-2019 at 03:50 PM.
Very nice update man!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Sticking with the M50 platform for now?
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
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