The tune was running me around in circles until I figured out that when DIY fixed the ecu they updated the firmware and a bunch of settings reset to default so I had to go through everything and fix it. The injector dead time was reset from .6 to the default of 1.1 which really screwed the tune considering it idles with 1.3 millisecond pulse width.
Nice work!
Re attaining a loping idle, does the ecu do rotational idle?
I was actually thinking of seeing if it lopes with the vanos on at idle and I can just set up two tunes for it, a lopey tune, and a properly running tune. That is stupid and vain so I probably won't do that.
In other news, in addition to the vanos solenoid being dead, the output on the ecu that I am using for it also appears to not be working as I cannot get a pulse out of it in test mode. I have two spared injector outputs I ran into the engine bay for eventual v8 needs so I will re purpose one of those.
Which cams did you get again and where did you install them? I've been chasing the fuel and spark pids around to get my car to NOT chop at idle but I'm also too lazy to setup the IAC and just doing it with spark.
Found it in the thread, can always trying moving the lambda target leaner to get it unstable like 1.02 range.
Last edited by Kevin325i; 09-26-2018 at 11:17 AM.
I read on an Internet forum that putting cooling fans on an intercooler won’t work..... I’ve had them on mine for years now 😁
They are VAC aggressive grind turbo cams I bought off ebay. They are made by cat cams and they do not match the specs that are on the website. They are 280 deg intake, and 268 deg exhaust. lift is like 10.5mm intake and 9.5 exhaust or thereabouts. I installed them at 118 degrees intake and 114 degrees exhaust. Due to intake valve clearance I had to limit the vanos travel to 17 degrees.
supposed to sound like this lol
- - - Updated - - -
Doesn't make any sense does it? Why would you want a fan on an heat exchanger?
Here is a spool test against the transbrake. This is with vanos on from 3000 to 4200 and 34 degrees of ignition timing. Changing from 28 degrees to 34 degrees of ignition timing the spool time went from over 14 seconds to about 5 and a half. Havn't tried nitrous yet.
I'd say it sounds pretty similar to your car idle stability wise..
I should make a new build thread to stop derailing Perry's. I don't have a good way to host pictures anymore and I'm still bitter about photobucket.
Man this thing is kicking my teeth in. I put the third starter in it today and finally found the issue is not the starter, rather its the wiring going from the start switch to the solenoid seams to have to much resistance to engage the solenoid. It only happens intermittently but sometimes when you push the starter button you will get not clicks or reaction at all. If you reach down with a screwdriver and jump the terminals though it will start. Need to rewire with a bigger wire I think. I was having major issue with the megasquirt yesterday and fought it for a whole day. It would missfire horribly anytime the throttle went over 55% under load. This afternoon I reflashed the firmware and that fixed it. Went for a long drive tonight to get the tune dialed in and the wideband is not reading correctly. The numbers showing on the megasquirt are off from whats showing on the gauge by anywhere from a half point to as much as 2 points. I've been trying to compensate for it by messing with the sensor calibration in tuner studio but its not linear so you can make it right at a certain AFR but not all. May need to find the cable for the controller and check the settings. I turned off the O2 corrections and just tuned it manually by adjusting the fuel table based on gauge readings and got it running great. Then I pulled over in someones driveway to turn around and the transbrake would not engage. On a transbrake TH400 you have to push the transbrake button to go in reverse. The solenoid works but the trans won't go on the brake in 1st gear anymore. I'm gonna pull all my hair out.
This band was unhappy with my brilliant oiling modification and was evidently dragging in high gear. In hindsight I see what the issue was and I think I fixed it. I put the original band in and put it back together
Back in the car. I have to go to work for a couple hours but I think I’m going to make it.
Last edited by someguy2800; 09-30-2018 at 11:42 AM.
Wowsers!
Brutal.
I can relate to the headaches with my previous automatic adventures....
I did make it to the track on Friday. I got the engine and trans back in at 5 AM and then worked until about 8am to get all the wiring, piping, exhaust, shifter radiator bumper ect back on. Then I had to go to work till about 11. I filled up the trans, brought my daughter to daycare and headed to the track about noon. It was snowing that morning so they delayed the races till 1:30 anyway. It took a couple passes to get the burnout and staging figured out with the auto but my third pass was a clean pass at 25 psi. It ran 9.5 @145 on that pass. The 60 foot was only 1.45 because I only had the launch control set at 4500 rpms which was not enough. After that pass the track decided to restrict everyone down to 1/8th mile only due to safety concerns. Brainerd has a heated track surface with water lines under the track, but due to the air temp and wind the track temp had gone below 50 degrees. It was just as well because after that I tried to turn up the boost and the car just kept breaking up and missing every time it got into boost. I was trying to turn it up to like 35 lbs but could never get more than 25 psi without it falling on its face. I was blind because my fuel pressure transducer had failed but I believe the 2nd fuel pump was not turning on. I think I need to finally get it on the dyno and get everything working and tune it up to 40 lbs.
Well, at least it isn't the BMW coils causing the misfires!
So what was your best 60ft previously? I know 1.45 isn't where you want to end up, but it ain't too bad.
It was usually 1.30-1.34 with the t56 in it and was shifting to 2nd right before the 60 foot. I’ll get it back with the auto, I just need to get some boost and rpm in it at the launch. Should do 1.20 or better.
Man I hope you can put that sucker consistently in the teens after you get it all sorted. That would be amazing!
Nice work!!
'97 M3/4
wow i have not frequented this forum for a while maybe years and this thing is at the top of the page lol glad to see your still going and fast. i would still like to see this thing some time.
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