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Thread: my build thread, e30 with a 9 inch

  1. #876
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Renton, Wa
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    5,026
    My Cars
    98 m3
    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    Man I know it, I really need a CNC and like a 36" lathe. I don't have any room in the shop for it though. Even a bridgeport would be a massive help.
    I picked up a round column super cheap. Itís a bit bigger than a drill press. It would fit where your table saw is.

    I rebuilt it, installed a 2hp 3ph motor, and a vfd. Iím going to draw up some pieces to convert it to ballscrews and cnc this winter.

    Should do great for light duty work and prototyping. Might work for you too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 TiAg/Black - Current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  2. #877
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Minnesota eh?
    Posts
    5,381
    My Cars
    86 325es
    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    I picked up a round column super cheap. It’s a bit bigger than a drill press. It would fit where your table saw is.

    I rebuilt it, installed a 2hp 3ph motor, and a vfd. I’m going to draw up some pieces to convert it to ballscrews and cnc this winter.

    Should do great for light duty work and prototyping. Might work for you too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well the blade on the table saw is all rusty because its been sitting in the yard for 5 years! Ideally I would like to build an addition to this shop with 3 bays and then convert the old shop space into a machine shop.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  3. #878
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    PA
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    Too many to list...
    Nice work. Love the attention to detail.


    '97 M3/4

  4. #879
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Minnesota eh?
    Posts
    5,381
    My Cars
    86 325es
    Some more progress. Been slow because my wife has been having some medical issues and one of the family members was in the ICU for the past week.

    I finally got a trailer this week. I bought a new Hull 20' 10k lb tiltbed. I'm really excited to finally have this because it will open up a lot of racing opportunities. I won't be limited to just what the local tracks are doing. There are some good tracks in Iowa, South Dakota, and Wisconsin I would like to hit up and not worry about breaking something or trying to hop between E85 stations.

    I spent most of the week finalizing all the wiring in the car and getting connectors soldered into the harness. I made some changes and found some things I overlooked. Also made all the cooler lines.



    .160" clearance between converter and flexplate



    Engine and trans in the car



    Since I no longer have a manual trans I finally bought one of these crankshaft holding things to torque the crank nut. Works great, should have bought one years ago. I used to just put it in 6th gear and set the parking brake.



    All wired up and new plug wires made



    I nearly had a heart attack yesterday. I was putting the little 6mm nut that holds the signal wire on the starter and was reaching over the motor and dropped the nut down the dipstick tube. Luckily I was able to fish it out with a magnet, otherwise I would have had to pull the motor and trans to remove the pan.



    Fittings put in the trans pan. Center of the photo sticking out of the pan is a temp sending unit. Above that you can see the transbrake solenoid. The 90 degree AN fitting is the return for the converter dump valve. This dumps cooler pressure back to the pan which in tern reduces the pressure in the converter and loosens the converter. To the right of that is a small 1/8 npt bleed valve. This serves as a drain as well as a way to check the fluid level.



    Different angle of the transbrake solenoid and showing the cooler lines coming out of the case above the solenoid. Right behind the solenoid you can see the dipstick plug. I bought a lokar quick release flexible dipstick to use in the car but the clearance is really tight on that side of the car due to the exhuast and cooler lines. I was able to make it fit when I test fit the trans earlier this year but just barely, and it put the cooler lines in an awkward position so I just decided to plug the dipstick hole.



    I use the brake bleed fitting on the right side to drain the oil and to check the fluid level. Just put a piece of 1/8" clear tube on the fitting and crack it open. The correct fluid level on all GM transmissions is level with the oil pan rail.



    To provide a fill point for adding fluid to the trans I put a T fitting on the AN line going to the oil pan from the front of the car and made a 2ft piece of hose. It takes about 15 minutes to pour the 7 qts of fluid through the 6an hose. Trans fluid I am using by the way is John Deere Hyguard trans hydraulic fluid. It has an extremely high flash point and is available in two different viscosities.



    When not needed it hides along the fender behind my expansion tank with a plug in the end.



    Shifter cable hooked up. The bracket that came with my Hurst shifter hit the trans tunnel so I had to cut and tweak it to mount the cable inside the arm instead of outside. Didn't need to modify the cable or lever, just moved the mounting loop on the bracket.



    Trans output yoke is a quick disconnect from Inland Empire Driveline. Normally the front yoke has the u joint press fit in it and the yoke at the diff is the one that is removable, but I wanted to be able to disconnect the front so I can leave the driveshaft in when pulling the motor and not mess with the rear yoke all the time. Really nice piece. I was concerned about power level on this part so I called them to ask. They said the u joints start breaking at 2500 hp but they've never broken a yoke.



    Exhaust back in. I had all the old DEI titanium wrap left over from my old downpipe so I wrapped the exhaust with it to keep some of the heat off the trans. When I put the exhaust back in the stainless nut on the POS Chinese vband clamp galled up and stuck halfway tight. I couldn't get the nut to tighten or loosen and had to cut it off with a sawzall. I had an old vband clamp in a box so I cut it up and took the bolt and nut out of that, then cut up the broken one, put the new bolt in it, and welded it back together



    I finally got everything together at about 2 am and then pumped the gas out of the fuel cell and refilled with E85. Set the timing with a timing light, did some trigger logging to confirm the crank trigger was on the correct edge, and pulled the valve cover to check the cam sync orientation again. I plugged everything in and my transbrake solid state relay was shorting so the transbrake was stuck on. I had a spare so I changed that out.

    I have been waiting to put the dash back in and the front end of the car back on until I had all the electronics tested so I wanted to fire it up quick just to make sure its all working. I put the fuel injector relay in and cranked it over but could not get a fire. I could not get the fuel injectors to fire either by cranking it over or in the injector test mode. Power was fine but the ECU was not grounding the injectors. I checked everything I could think of but to no avail so I went to bed at 5:30. Kinda bummed about it because I have been killing myself all week trying to make the races this weekend. I called Matt this morning and he asked me to take the cover off the case and check voltage at a couple points. From that he said I need to send it back for them to do an internal repair so I overnighed it this morning. Really hoping I get it back next week, race season is almost over.

    Here is where I left it.



    As fate would have it this was my fortune cookie I got at lunch



    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  5. #880
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    PA
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    Lol! The fortune cookie cracked me up!

    Looking great! Hopefully the ECU is at fault and it's an easy fix.


    '97 M3/4

  6. #881
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    DeWitt, Michigan
    Posts
    5,686
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    '97 540i/6, '97 328i
    DAMN!! I feel for you on that ECU issue... It's always something.

    On the upside, the overall build is looking fantastic!

  7. #882
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    PEI, Canada
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    2,687
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    2001 330i
    I love your ignition coil setup.....will have to copy that!

    Sorry to hear about the ECU troubles. I've never had issues with Motec hardware, but I have incorrectly configured things leading to "much headache".
    For Sale:

    GTX4088R $1500

  8. #883
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Renton, Wa
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    98 m3
    Going to sleep at 530. Sounds like me haha.

    Great update! Looking forward to seeing what you do with that turbo!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 TiAg/Black - Current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  9. #884
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    444
    My Cars
    2001 BMW M5, 2005 BMW M3
    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    I love your ignition coil setup.....will have to copy that!
    That is a setup I've been lusting after for a while! Next build, not this one!

    --Peter

  10. #885
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Minnesota eh?
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    5,381
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    86 325es
    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    I love your ignition coil setup.....will have to copy that!

    Sorry to hear about the ECU troubles. I've never had issues with Motec hardware, but I have incorrectly configured things leading to "much headache".br
    the brackets are from ict billet. I was going to make some but the $50 was worth the time saved.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  11. #886
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    DeWitt, Michigan
    Posts
    5,686
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    '97 540i/6, '97 328i
    For what it's worth, the stuff I have bought from ICT Billet has been excellent quality too, and has also been a bargain. Love them.

  12. #887
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
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    3,322
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    e30
    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    the brackets are from ict billet. I was going to make some but the $50 was worth the time saved.
    Are those the 1A coils or something else? Curious which ones you used although you probably mentioned it many times before!
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  13. #888
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Minnesota eh?
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazzu70 View Post
    Are those the 1A coils or something else? Curious which ones you used although you probably mentioned it many times before!
    Yes the Pantera EFI IGN1A coils. They are the holley branded ones.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  14. #889
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    3,074
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    95 M3, 15 Golf TDI wagon
    What diameter driveshaft do you have? That's the NASCAR one...you just had it shortened right?

    -WTB: OEM Class 2 LTW GT wing with risers- Mazak

  15. #890
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Minnesota eh?
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    86 325es
    Quote Originally Posted by 3literheater View Post
    What diameter driveshaft do you have? That's the NASCAR one...you just had it shortened right?
    Its a 3” chromolly from strange engineering. Same one I had with the t56 but with a new yoke. Th400 worked out to be the same length.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  16. #891
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    Jun 2004
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    Running yet??


    '97 M3/4

  17. #892
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
    Running yet??
    Waiting for the megasquirt to get fixed. I called them today and begged, they said it should be done tomorrow, so fingers crossed for Friday.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  18. #893
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Minnesota eh?
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    86 325es
    Since I'm sitting on my hands I decided to redo my turbo oil drain. You can see the old one in this picture. Its just a -10 AN hose with a heat reflective wrap on it.



    It worked great on the old setup but when I redid the turbo manifold to fit the s472 it set the turbo back a couple inches and now it sits really close to the manifold and will touch it if its not installed just so. One of my hobbies has always been not being on fire, so I had to make a new one. It has to snake around the huge compressor housing and a couple pipes so a hard line is better for this one. I went to the steel supply place and got a piece of 5/8" OD steel tube and bent it up. This is really heavy gauge thick wall tube so to bend it I had to clamp it in the bench vice and heat it red hot with a mapp gas torch.



    It has to bend away from the frame, then around the compressor housing, then around the manifold, and finally one more to get it pointed toward the pan.



    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by someguy2800; 09-20-2018 at 04:25 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  19. #894
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Galt,CA
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    711
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    2002 M Coupe
    Sure hope you had some way to get a bead on the end of the tube before you clamped that hose on it. Granted it is "just" a drain line, but crankcases do get pressurized to some extent, and if even a drop or two of oil gets past the clamp the pipe will be slick enough to blow the hose off in spite of the clamp. Guess how I know ........

    Marty

    Come to think of it, what you should do is finish the job by welding an AN fitting on the pipe so you can put an AN hose end fitting on the hose!
    Last edited by MartyBtoo; 09-20-2018 at 08:10 PM. Reason: added a final thought ....

  20. #895
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Toronto, Canada
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    E36 Turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by MartyBtoo View Post
    Come to think of it, what you should do is finish the job by welding an AN fitting on the pipe so you can put an AN hose end fitting on the hose!
    This!

    E36 ∑ DYNO ∑ TUNING ∑ WIRING ∑ PARTS

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