Hi all,
I'm seeking some specific advice regarding BMW E36 and E46 M3 suspension components. I have a meticulously maintained E36 325is with low mileage, upgraded wheels, poly bushings, Bilstein shocks, H&R springs, and more. Recently, I acquired a very affordable E46 M3 convertible with low mileage as well, featuring a complete big Brembo brake kit, KW suspension, and various other enhancements.
Now, here's my question: Can I swap the entire suspension system from the E46 M3 into my E36 M3? I'm not looking for unrelated answers or suggestions to sell the cars. If your response isn't related to this specific query, kindly refrain from posting. I'm solely interested in understanding the feasibility and potential challenges of this suspension swap between these two models.
Also note that don’t worry about fenders I’m doing the e46 non m welded fenders! I’m sure some of you have seen that have been done! E36 has rc8 17x9 square
Thank you for your understanding and assistance!
Nothing fits. Though some do ‘try’ to run E46 aluminum Forward Control Arms on the E36….
E46 M3 King Pin require E46 M3 Calipers which require E46 Rotors which require 18” wheels
Last edited by bluptgm3; 02-15-2024 at 08:44 PM.
Please know that the e46 was very cheap because it has been in the sun for the past 5 years! I really don’t like it! Don’t tell me to keep the e46 I will do the s54 completar swap! And I need the suspension info thank you
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Thank you! What about the sway arms?
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Thank you! What about the sway arms
Anything can be done with a plasma cutter and welder.
But otherwise, none of the major compenents fit.
The drifters seem to use the front LCA's because they are abuot an inch longer, but that requires other compromises.
I saw a poster try to put E46 rear trailing arms in an E36, but never saw the competed project.
Fold down mirror, front seats, wheels (with some hammering), rear trunk carpet, speakers, speaker wiring, ecu, engine harness, wheel lug nuts, front brake rotors (with aftermarket calipers), dome light bulb, ABS system (with custom lines and wiring changes).
Sounds like you should just use an E46 chassis.
Olemiss gave a pretty comprehensive list.
I consulted / helped a friend do a significant portion of what you're considering.
It IS possible. But there are some considerations.
1. This should only be done if this is a dedicated track car. The rest will make it clear why.
2. The E46 M3 is about 2 inches wider than the E36. In the front, BMW retained a lot of the structure and the width came from the control arms. The front arms are too wide for any kind of normal flares. They're more than an inch - much closer to 2 inches longer PER SIDE. And that's before you start putting on any kind of wider wheel. We had to run full widebody race car fiberglass fenders / side skirts.
3. So now the wheels are 2 inches outboard, but the shock tower got left behind. We reversed his camber plates, maxxed them out, and it still wasn't enough. We were able to get someone to make some customizations and were able to get the strut tops pushed further out to get camber DOWN to -3.5 or so. Not horrific, but not very streetable.
4. We didn't swap the struts, brakes, knuckle, etc. Actually, I don't remember what we did here. But as others have pointed out you'll need to pull the rest of the MK60 ABS stuff if you want to make that change. Which is a good thing, but a lot of work.
Take a breath - that was just the front.
5. Now for the back. And this is the tough part. The E46 is about 2 inches wider than the E36. And in the rear all that width comes from a wider chassis. Rear control arms are the same - in fact, IIRC I think the rear lower control arms are the same part number. So YOU have to make the rear wider on your own with the control arms. Lots of people make threaded lower arms, so you can call Bimmerworld or similar and ask them to make you some lower arms with some extra length in the threaded part. But the upper arm with the spring perch... that's pure custom work, and needs to be accurate, too. But THAT'S the easy part...
6. The trailing arm. You just pushed the wheel out by about 2 inches. There isn't room in the RTAB pocket to move it out 2 inches. So you're going to have massive toe in. I wouldn't be caught dead welding those cast trailing arms. Our solution was to drill and pierce all the way from the outside - under the side skirt, through the frame rail, through the pocket - and all the way through, stopping just short of the gas tank. The hole had to be both placed at the right point and ALSO at the right angle, and then we threaded a piece of threaded rod into the hole, through the RTAB (with jam nuts on both sides), and through to the inside next to the gas tank. Then we redid it and removed the outside set of jam nuts because the trailing arm needed the RTAB sucked tight against the outside wall of the pocket. Nope, still not enough. Hammer the outside wall of the pocket outward. Finally get to a livable amount of toe in.
7. Again, any kind of normal rear flares aren't going to be wide enough.
So, that's the big stuff, though it's been a while and I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot of things.
But definitely doable. This was a 2 year project.
Kind of a lot of work, but he did set a bunch of records. I don't know how it got classed, but for the weight and power against other "similar" E36s he slayed them (he was either in Spec3 or GTS-2 or something similar - I don't really remember). Definitely rewarding for a guy working in his garage competing against rich guys spending big money on their race cars.
In hindsight he said he'd never do it again. Too much work, too much was custom. Any time anything broke, he had to have the replacement parts fabricated and he'd miss a couple races.
But hey, it's your time and money and if it's worth it to you, go for it!
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