I pushed the up and told Clay to watch
Revved it up and slipped the clutch
It hooked in first
Which is the worst
With a loud pop
It came to a stop
Giggling like a girl after the glitch
We are reminded that torque is a bitch
Correct
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
I would like to note that the time spent in the car before the mishap was nothing short of ridiculous. The car pulls like a rocket ship. Most impressive is the full grip after 1st gear(on 21 psi). The whole time, the turbo is just dying to spool. I was very impressed with the drivability and idle characteristics with those huge injectors. I apreciate Jonathan breaking his stuff to show me what I'm missing building a 5 series tank. I was proud to hook a strap to my truck and pull the "PAPER W8" back to his house for all to see.
Hosted the Z3 fix it day yesterday. Great turnout, great weather. Think I saw at least 20 different BMWs come up though my driveway, none newer than 2002.
Once my headstuds were checked for proper torque (this time, they barely moved), Clay decided to taunt me until I took him out for a ride. Of course, I felt obligated. Very obligated.
We drove the streets of Thayerland for a few minutes to warm up the oil while enjoying the sweet smell of burning ethanol and enjoying the driveability of giant injectors on a stock RK tuned DME. With the controller left on 1.5bar, we romped a few times. I'm not sure if Clay was more intrigued with the gut sucking acceleration or the cranium destroying deceleration of big tires and walloping brakes. On the ascent back to the compound, it was decided that we should try a higher boost setting, a modest 1.8bar. The tires were sticky and the road was clear but the driveshaft was not up for the job. No hop, just a pop. Called home for a ride and was greeted by two awesome guys willing and ready to make fun of my demise. Clay and I then grabbed a strap and used his Exploder to flat tow it back to the house. There is video to come and pictures of the embarrassment.
I leave you with a pretzel (this is #3):
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
Sounds like time for a built driveshaft. George knows a guy who knows a guy if you wanna hit him up.
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
There are options for your car already, none for the m coupe. George is getting something made for the coupe that's never been done before.
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
When I had my driveshaft shortened for the six speed I had the guy replace the forward tube with a thicker gauge tube. You could probably take the twisted bits to a local drive shaft shop and have the same done.
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
I posted this in my other thread, I think it's applicable towards your comment too. Of the three shafts I've broken, two have been at the bottle neck, but the other one was at the connecting spline. I don't think that beefing up the front will allow for a much longer life.
This isn't the first time I've done this - however this one was just easier to do. I guess I finally have enough traction in the rear. LoL.
Through my torture testing, there are two weak spots in the driveshaft. The first is the bottleneck where it steps from 2" to 3" in the front. The second weak spot is the connecting splice between the two halves.
I have the front half off that is still good off one of my old broken ones, so I should have it back on the road later this week. Just need to tell myself to keep out of the throttle until 3rd gear. One must realize that it probably was seeing >2500 ft.lb. of torque when it broke (approx 600 ft.lb. at engine x 4.23 transmission multiplier).
As far as the driveshaft hoop - it's not necessary with the stock 2 piece as it is two very short lengths and will bend very easily if broken and needed and there is no real provision for it on our cars. Now if / when I convert to a single piece steel, it is necessary and they typically bolt to the location where the CSB is at stock configuration.
The tow of shame ... LOL
I think you need some F[ound]O[n]R[oad]D[ead] Badges
;-)
forsrs though, this thing is a monster, and sounds quieter and more civilized than most BMWs i see in this area. Yet would smoke all but the most exorbitant builds (from a roll... :-D). This is by far the most insane and well planned build ive have the pleasure of working on, or seeing for that matter. No rice, no flashy bits; just ludicrous torque!
Just a quick video of the car idling with the giant 115# injectors. The only thing you're missing is the great smell of burning ethanol.
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A look under Mindy's skirt ... she likes it when you look.
Jon, are you going to stray from oem on the drive shaft, or just replace it with another factory piece? Did you mention what boost level you were on when it happened. The 2nd owner who purchased Omar's car for only a few months actually took out second gear. He was running 22 psi, and really let the car have it, and it he damaged the trans. AA thoughts were that the limits of the stock trans were right at the power level they had tuned, and didn't want to go any further. Obviously, driving style has a log to do with it, but most of all, available traction at the moment of destruction, which yours was likely hooking up nicely.
Is it even worth straying from OEM on this? possible to reinforce the OEM driveshaft? Are you dual ear on your diff? Randy Forbes kit?
If Omar was the pioneer of turbocharging the coupe, you have certainly been the component threshold strength tester. Hopefully you can get it back on the road soon. Greg.
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I am also going to tackle my CCV setup, I have considered doing it into the exhaust like you have. I know people have done it with mixed results. What components did you use. Great tour of the under belly.
1999 M coupe, Black/Kyalami Orange, Sunroof Delete; GT4088R turbo, 610 WHP @ 22PSI Pump Gas; 2.79 Gearing; TCK D/A's; Forgelines 19x9 et38 w/265 30's; 19x11.5 et19 w/305 30's. Brembo GT Brakes; Race Logic Traction Control.
1971 Datsun 510: High Compression VG34e, CAI,Fuji Blue, GC C/O's; system, Penultimate Rear Crossmember R160 lsd 3.70, cv axels; CCW LM16's 16 x 7.5/8.5 w/215 40 and 245 35 T1R's.
I took it out for a drive this evening. I put another stock front section on the driveshaft. It will by no means hold - and I don't expect it to. Working on solutions to put something much more robust in there. Lets just say the two highest torque M Coupe owners are trying to figure this out together as we're both at the level of traction and torque that the factory shaft can't hold. The one disadvantage of going with longer gears is just this! But hopefully a (good) solution will be found. There's no good way to beef up the factory driveshaft and I've broken them at both the front bottle neck and center slip joint.
When this one broke, there was no hesitation. At 1.8bar and a 5k launch in 1st. I expect the engine was making >500tq and with the 4.2 multiplier it was just too much for the shaft. But it's nuts to break it on the street. Heck, there's no chance it will hold at the strip
The subframe reinforcement is insanely robust. Think of two 1/2 steel plates tied together with 3 pcs of DOM cage tubing with a boxed diff ear mount. There's no point in going dual ear if you can make the one steady enough (which is covered).
The CCV is a summit racing kit. 'Merican car parts. Get 'er done. Works well!!!
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As far as the trans, my biggest concern is the unsupported 3rd gear. Since I can actually use all the power there and load the car properly, there's a good probability that it will let go there. I may also need to consider a fluid cooler at some point, but want to see how it fares this summer first.
I put the car back on the spring (no controller) and it feels so slow now. I've already grown used to the 21psi that everything else feels like childsplay. Need to keep it in once piece as I want to drive it to Charlotte, NC on Thursday for DSS.
$5 says its back on the controller before Richmond
Today is picture day - I have almost 100 pictures to post up so I'll be doing it through the day. All are sequential per the date stamp in my phone. I'll try to add some comments; feel free to ask questions (p.s. make sure to quote just the picture you are talking about!)
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Well, looks like it's going to need to wait until I find a new photo hosting service because Google is sucking a big one this morning. Sigh.
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