Changed Steering Wheel, car won't start now.

[c0lin46and2]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvBH9...ature=youtu.be

I had the battery off for a while to make sure the airbag didn't deploy. Installed the new wheel just fine, then left it. I wanted to make a run to the store, but this is what I got. It'll go after a while, but die right away. What's going on?

[JDStrickland]

I had the battery off for a while to make sure the airbag didn't deploy. Installed the new wheel just fine, then left it. I wanted to make a run to the store, but this is what I got. It'll go after a while, but die right away. What's going on?

What?

[c0lin46and2]

I installed the new steering wheel today. Now the car won't start. The picture is actually a video, if you didn't know.

[sunbrn]

Bad connection with the battery. Disconnect/reconnect the negative terminal again and make sure its got a good connection.

[slocar]

Bad connection with the battery. Disconnect/reconnect the negative terminal again and make sure its got a good connection.

Video doesn't work, but I'm with this guy.

[pussiwillow]

Isn't there an ews transponder behind the steering wheel? Did mess with it? It's supposed to read the chip in the key and pass the signal to ews module to the dme and allow it to run...I've never had it off but I thought i would throw the idea around

[c0lin46and2]

I tried the battery over and over. I'll work on getting the video working. It cranks just fine, even runs for a second. Just doesn't really go.

[c0lin46and2]

I added the YouTube link.

[pussiwillow]

Slowly pull the wheel off. Be careful that you don't pull too aggressively as that might stretch or break the wires that connect between the rear of the slip ring and the wiring under the steering column. It is possible to tug the connector out of the slip ring and pull some of the ribbon cable out of the slip ring to provide additional clearance between the wheel and the column. Carefully reach into the area beneath the column and pull the horn and airbag connectors out of the receptacles. A small screwdriver may be needed to help free the release of the connectors, but a carefully placed finger did the job for me. When the wiring is free, set the wheel aside somewhere safe.

This was taken from a DIY, I'd pull the wheel back off and take a look at the wiring.

Did you check any fuses? If the wires are good behind the wheel id start checking for blown fuses and from there, spark and fuel man

[c0lin46and2]

Nothing is working. I'm just gonna install the old wheel and hope that fixes it.

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And now the old steering wheel doesn't work. I'm not sure what to do or what I did wrong.

[pussiwillow]

Did you check all your wires behind the wheel? Fuses?

Are you getting spark and or fuel?

[c0lin46and2]

Honestly, I don't really know what to check for. I checked the wiring, and it seemed fine. I'm not sure which fuses to even check.

[pussiwillow]

Under fuse box lid it should give you an idea of what fuse is which, if anything i would start pulling them all and checking with a meter, I've seen blown ones look good but were broken, if those check out fine, I'd pull a plug and coil and check for spark. Can you hear the fuel pump run? Something is either messing with you when the battery was disconnected or you pulled a wire or disconnected something, blown fuse or need to connect something.

[c0lin46and2]

The fuses looked fine and I don't have a multimeter. Would it matter that the battery was disconnected? Could the ecu have reset or something?

[pussiwillow]

The ecu should not have reset, never heard of that before, pull a plug and coil, don't hold or touch anything metal, use rubber glove and have some one just crank the car just enough to see spark, I recommend using a spark tester, but that works but don't get zapped. Start simple man

[c0lin46and2]

The user who sold me the wheel gave me these two solutions, but they don't seem to be 100% congruent with my car.

Check the on board computer (obc) under the radio to see if it's asking for a start code.

The ’80s and ’90s BMW models (E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E34, E36) that have the separate On Board Computer units (OBC), such as your E36, have an anti-theft feature available within the OBC. If this feature is activated, the pre-set 4-digit code must be input. When activated, the starter will turn, but the engine will not start.

The owner’s manual for your 325 gives the sequence and instruction for activating, using and de-activating the system.

EMERGENCY START PROCEDURE – IF CODE HAS BEEN LOST:

* Disconnect battery for 5 minutes, or more.

* Reconnect battery.

* Turn ignition key to position 1 (alarm should sound).

* A time display will appear and run down to zero (for 15 minutes).

* After 15 minutes, the engine can be started.

During the waiting period of 15 minutes, the code can be re-entered.

* Press CODE button.

* Input desired code.

* Press the S/R button.

* Start the engine.

With this one, my OBC isn't asking for a code nor is there a countdown.


Put your Master Key in the door. turn it to the 1st position right, then 2nd position right, then 3rd position left. this will reset the starter immobilization sequence which is part of the anti theft system monitored by the EWS system. then put the key in the ignition and fire it up!

With this one, I have no idea what key position 1 or 2 are. My locks are just lock and unlock.

[405style]

Let me start with the basic. Do you get a crank?

Watched video. You MUST of fubared your ews chip reader ring. There is no other explanation. Crank but no start= chipped key not being read. It either cuts off fuel or spark, i forget. Check the decoder ring wires, i bet ANYTHING thats it.

[erikerikerik]

I REALLY have no idea why the wheel change over would set / trigger your anti-theft feature.
Just for shits and giggles while I was changing out my gauge yesterday I pulled my 95 wheel and left the slip-ring in, and BAM, the car started right up and kept running.
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edit: I went and tried the wrong key on my 95' and the car wouldnt crank like in your first video.
Swapped to the real keys and it fired up...but now I have a CEL . But I'll clear that in a little bit.

I'm willing to bet that your EWS for some reason is not reading your key correctly.

[slocar]

Let me start with the basic. Do you get a crank?

Watched video. You MUST of fubared your ews chip reader ring. There is no other explanation. Crank but no start= chipped key not being read. It either cuts off fuel or spark, i forget. Check the decoder ring wires, i bet ANYTHING thats it.

This is what I'm thinking.

I swapped steering wheels over the weekend, the clockspring was removed and swapped over and everything and I had no issues ... car fired right up.

[405style]

Im guessing a screw driver or plastic touched or removed where it shouldn't have been, or maybe the decoder ring is unplugged? Anyways nothing to do with the wheel, but definitely something to do with the EWS decoder.

[hammy1]

yup definitely the ews. you had to have accidentally unplugged/snagged/spliced/pulled/damaged something with regards to the ews ring or the ews wires. use the bentley manual itll make things alot simpler.

and whatever you do dont get frustrated and take it out on the car youll do more damage. lol if you feel like taking a hammer to it, just take a break.. trust me my cousin used to have an a4 lol

[pussiwillow]

Get an ews deleted ecu or send yours off, profit

[c0lin46and2]

This is the part around the key cylinder housing?

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[405style]

I see cracks in the ring is it damaged?

[vonB]

Are you using the key with the chip? The inductor ring looks ok in the pics, but be sure you didn't break the connections putting the o-ring or cover back on. Does it get fuel when you crank it, if not check fuel pump fuse? Does it get ignition?

I am curious, why are the holes drilled in the side of the ignition housing?