The E39 LS wiring thread

[modular93fox]

besides the a/c side of the equation, what do you need the 250$ gauge driver for the cluster for? a 12$ ebay cable and software on the net will allow you to code the cluster for the gauges to work properly. If i had a spare laptop, I would set it up and rent-a-tool it out to swappers... just dont have a spare laptop... got 2 cables, just no laptop.
clint

[James39]

I figured I would add how to make a 12v switch off the AC button LED. I don't know if .5A is enough to supply the PCM's that work with 12v A/C request, but this will be enough to get the ball rolling anyway...

You will need to remove your IHKA and the front plate, and solder a small wire at the base of the LED for your 2v signal, an another small wire at the other side of the LED for the ground. Soldering was easy if you've ever done any small scale circuitry, but getting it all back together without the button contacts popping out almost sent me over the edge.

Edit, slight change to the diagram, GROUND is not just any ground, it appears that you need to tap the other side of the LED, otherwise it's always energizing the reed relay.


Capture.PNG

[nsogiba]

anyone have input on the tach signal?

i went through the whole song and dance of reprogramming the cluster, adding the wire at the right pin, etc. Once that wire is connected to the PCM output, the needle physically moves with the engine speed, but only about half as much as it should be (based on sound). at idle it reads nearly zero. my car was originally a V8 as well, so i don't think it's a frequency issue (pulses). anyone?


edit: i did find this. may just try to change the output in HPTuners, or at least check what it's outputting and see what works.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...5#post22485795


"I used the factory PCM as well. Found these online and used the instructions below:

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=107734


Originally Posted by V8 Supra Builder
Did some math & research & some more math, this looks to be correct:
The number of crankshaft medium resolution pulses (24x pulses) to hold the tach output high (should match {G1205} "Tach Pulses Low").
The number of output pulses P is calculated as P=24/(N*2) where N is the value of this calibration.

Sample values for this calibration:
For 12 pulses, use N= 1
For 6 pulses, use N= 2
For 4 pulses, use N= 3 (Note- 8 cylinder tach setting)
For 3 pulses, use N= 4 (Note- 6 cylinder tach setting)
For 2 pulses, use N= 6 (Note- LSx 8 cylinder & 4 cylinder tach setting)
For 1 pulse, use N=12

N=6 same as you see in HPT (for Gen 3 motors)

Pulse Calculator: V8 tach reads 4 pulses per revolution, so 24/8=3. 6 cylinder reads 3 pulses per revolution, so 24/6=4. 4 cylinder reads 2 pulses per revolution, so 24/12=2. These are the "N" numbers for above that are plugged into the HP Tuners Tach Output fields."

[Jesus Freak]

You can change the tach signal PPR in the cluster to 4cyl or 6cyl. Here's what I have saved in my notes

Motor-faktor (4cyl or 6cyl tach)
2_imp/umdrehung (for 4cyl tach)

my PCM is calibrated for 4ppr, 4cyl tach.

[nsogiba]

Does anyone know how much of a role the Cam Position Sensor plays in telling the GM PCM the engine speed?

The LS2 cam I mistakenly installed doesn't have the reluctor on the back of the cam, so that could explain why I'm having trouble with my tach (if it's related).

[nsogiba]

Ok, got the coolant gauge up and running, almost done with the cluster. Few questions about small "optional" wires just to look nice...

I recall from one of James' posts that check engine light signal was provided to the cluster through pin 17 at connector X16. I did try to find the X16 pinout but couldn't find it in WDS....

"18-pin black
Check engine light on the early models is power through X16 #17, ground is X16 #2 Not sure if the bulb/circuitry is in the newer clusters or not."

On my cluster there are two "black 18 pin" connectors. One has a white outer casing, the other has a black outer casing. I think it's the driver's side one with the black outer casing, but not sure. CEL signal wire from GM PCM goes to X16 #17, do I need to snip the BMW wire going to X16 #2 and provide that with its own dedicated ground?

Also, what is everyone doing for oil pressure dummy light and alternator dummy light? Connections to tie into at the cluster obviously, which ones? Would be nice to have those since my alt is probably original, as well as peace of mind for the oil.

[modular93fox]

I didnt use either alt or oil psi dummy light. The bmw switch oil psi to turn the light off will cause damage to the engine anyway... didnt wire in the altenator to the cluster either. Could be PCM dependant though. mine came from a camaro and its schematic is a 1 wire setup and the alt is charging the battery when I do run it from time to time.

[BRAAP]

I didnt use either alt or oil psi dummy light. The bmw switch oil psi to turn the light off will cause damage to the engine anyway...

Could you elaborate on how the BMW oil pressure sender would damage the LSx engine?

I didnt use either alt or oil psi dummy light. ...... didnt wire in the altenator to the cluster either. Could be PCM dependant though. mine came from a camaro and its schematic is a 1 wire setup and the alt is charging the battery when I do run it from time to time.

For what it's worth regarding the GM alternator and dash lights; (Gen III PCM's, 896-411 as used on gen 4 98-02 camaros/firebirds, Vetts, trucks etc)
As GM designed it and is used in their vehicles, the GM PCM energizes the alternator via Pin#52 Red connector of the PCM. The PCM is able to monitor the status of the field windings/armature in this way and if the Alternator has trouble accepting the energizing signal via open or short, the PCM will set a DTC which is then sent to the GM Body Control Module, (BCM) via Pin #58 of the Blue Connector where it tells the instrument cluster warning center to let the drive know the alternator has a trouble, (also saves the DTC in the PCM as well)

For us Swappers we can energize the Alternator via the PCM though we wont have any indicator letting us know if the alternator is having issues/died until its too late and the battery is drained, i.e. no fore warning to allow you get back home or to a safe place to R&R the bad alternator, (in 275,000 miles of our Suburban went trough this exact scenario twice, was REALLY nice having that heads up warning the alt died on the freeway with all the family so we could nurse the Burb to a parts store in the next town and remedy it). Soooo, what we swappers typically do so we do have an fault indicator light for the alternator is utilize the vehicles charge light to energize the GM alternator which serves the same functionality as the PCM energizing the Alternator but with the added bonus of a heads up warning if the alternator does take a crap. This method is the preferred method for anyone desiring a warning light for the alternator. Haven't delved into the E39 charge light wiring yet but if it is an analog circuit or the light in the dash can be wired as shown below then I'd recommend that vs having the PCM energize the alt.



- - - Updated - - -

For those cannibilzing Gen III, (896, 411 PCM) GM harness, truck or car, (built a few from truck harness for E36's and hot rods) or building their own harness from scratch, these stand alone LSx diagrams should help and even answer some questions regarding PCM wiring, sensors etc.
Hope it helps;

Power and grounds;


Injectors and coils;


Sensors;


Trans, both auto and manual;


Emissions related for those interested;



Side note regarding PCM's, manual vs auto trans and DBW vs DBC, for those with PCM's that came from an Auto trans vehicle and you plan to use with a manual trans or vice versa, you will have to have the PCM re-flashed with the software from the same PCM, (896 or 411) that has what you want regarding the trans, i.e. auto or manual, within HP-Tuners it is referred to as "Write Entire". You can not just change a parameters in the PCM, the entire software is hard coded and must be re-flashed, easy process actually, done it a couple times already. Same applies if your PCM came from a DBW, (Drive By Wire), and you want to use it with cable actuated Throttle body, (DBC) you will have to "Write Entire" using a tune from a similar PCM that has what you want.

Hope that helps,
Paul

[nsogiba]

thanks for the great write up Paul, I'm sure many others will use that down the road.

my alternator definitely isn't new but it would be very easy to find a replacement.

regarding the oil pressure light, here's what i have saved in my notes:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post21602381

First off - the oil pressure sender - the stock ls1 one is a sweep sensor, so duh, of course it wouldn't work with the momentary switch style of the 36. Braap covered this area pretty well but I think I found a few pieces that make the plugin of the stock sender a little bit easier.

I bought a stock e36 m3 oil pressure sender, Equus part# 9861 & a brass male/female 1/8npt -> 1/4 - things I was easily able to get at my local oreilly or in my case baxters - no drill & tap here.

The equus kit has a m16x1.5mm thread to 1/8" thread adapter - which is a a weird size - there is a m16x1.5 to m12x1.5 adapter made for some cosworth motors but I couldn't find it anywhere stateside... The metric sender threaded in cleanly but loosely to the 1/4 fitting - enough so that I used a bunch of teflon tape and am comfortable it'll last.


I then threaded the adapter into the other adapter and tightened it all down.



it ended up being a bit shorter than the existing sensor - which is in a touch but not impossible place to get to on the back of the motor while everything is in the car - do it while its out of the car!



I plumbed that into the existing wire out of the x20 and now that sensor works perfectly with the dash dummy light - yes, that now means all of my dash dummy lights & gauges work as intended!

i already have the above combo installed, just need to wire it. i will dig through the WDS looking for oil light and check engine light cluster wiring unless someone else has better information for the E39...

[modular93fox]

I ment the oil psi to turn the light off, is low, like .4 bar.. So 7psi oil ... For me not worth adding the wire .. Some want all the oil light power to you.. That's what I ment ... I seen that pin c or pin b of the alternator goes to the indicator but I don't know if out cluster is led or regular bulb and if it makes a difference in the circuit.
Someone needs to wire it in and let us know

Clint

[nsogiba]

7psi before you get a warning light, holy crap! Not worth the effort for sure.

Check engine light wiring anyone???!!! Would love to wire it up before I reassemble the cluster for this weekend.

[M5Hunter]

I have a 3 connector IKE cluster. The CEL is connector X16(the black one) pin 17. You have to add the pin. Dont know if this would also apply to the 2 connector cluster or not, just looking back on my notes

[byrden]

... I seen that pin c or pin b of the alternator goes to the indicator but I don't know if out cluster is led or regular bulb and if it makes a difference in the circuit.
Someone needs to wire it in and let us know

Clint

I've been trying to figure out the alternator light myself, haven't figured it out yet. The E39 alternator light is LED (not a bulb like the LS1 cars use), and it is a ground trigger as far as I can tell.

[nsogiba]

I have a 3 connector IKE cluster. The CEL is connector X16(the black one) pin 17. You have to add the pin. Dont know if this would also apply to the 2 connector cluster or not, just looking back on my notes

need to add a ground as well, or does the OEM harness take care of that?

you don't happen to have a picture, do you? i have 2 black 18 pin connectors on the back of my cluster.

[James39]

need to add a ground as well, or does the OEM harness take care of that?

you don't happen to have a picture, do you? i have 2 black 18 pin connectors on the back of my cluster.

The CEL signal from the PCM is a ground, the CEL bulb circuit in my cluster was already wired to use a ground to turn it on.

[1NAWTY5]

You can buy terminals at the dealer for like 1$ and crimp them on for more solid less splicing configuration

I saw the terminals on Realoem but dont know which ones I need for the cluster pinout . Anyone have a part number for the pin its like 9 different ones?

Thanks in advance

[1999540i]

I cant figure out whats going on with my Tach I have coded the cluster I have the Ike 3 connector cluster, unchecked engine Can bus using pa softare. I have a 2000 ls1 computer and connected the white tach signal wire to the correct pin on my cluster blue connector (x10114) pin (25) . My tach still reads zero. Am i missing something ?

[Jesus Freak]

I cant figure out whats going on with my Tach I have coded the cluster I have the Ike 3 connector cluster, unchecked engine Can bus using pa softare. I have a 2000 ls1 computer and connected the white tach signal wire to the correct pin on my cluster blue connector (x10114) pin (25) . My tach still reads zero. Am i missing something ?

Did you change the pulse per rev option in the cluster?
If your PCM is set for 4-6cyl that's what you need to set your cluster to.
Motor-faktor (4cyl or 6cyl tach)
2_imp/umdrehung (for 4cyl tach)

Also, did you hook 12v to pin 7 of the 12 pin plug in the Ebox?

[1999540i]

yes i have 12v hooked to pin 7 of the ebox
I couldnt find the Motor - factor 2_ imp/umdrehung in my pa software all i saw was options for 3 or 4 impluses
thanks for the help

[Lelan]

did anyone have problems getting the pa soft to connect with the car?

[Lelan]

bump

[M5Hunter]

I hooked it to Brandon's car and my car with no issues.

[James39]

bump

I had the knock-off China bmw scanner and I couldn't get it to connect. I read somewhere that if you didn't use the included version of PA soft with the generic scanner it would die. Apparently there's a newer version knock-off that will work with the most recent version of PA soft. I didn't buy another one, just dropped it and used ncs expert.

[Jesus Freak]

I also use NCS, super easy when you use it with ncs dummy for translation and editing.

[nsogiba]

Anyone here running an LS7 MAF in their setup? Figured I'd ask as I'm looking to slap one in and need to confirm differences in pinout.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...fferences.html