The E39 LS wiring thread

[modular93fox]

on what?

I stopped by the junkyard over the weekend and clipped a few cluster pigtails from some mid 90s E32s and E36s. I'll probably de-pin a few of those later this week and insert into the existing cluster harness plug.

You can buy terminals at the dealer for like 1$ and crimp them on for more solid less splicing configuration

[nsogiba]

You can buy terminals at the dealer for like 1$ and crimp them on for more solid less splicing configuration

I already depinned the junkyard connectors last night, so it’s just a matter of inserting the new terminals into the connector in my car and soldering/crimping a new long wire (that goes to the e-box/PCM/whatever) to the 6” wire already factory crimped to the connector. Fo free!

[Lelan]

Where so you guys run wire through the firewall at? I've gotta run my dbw pedal wires, tach, temp, CEL, obd, and aftermarket gauges, but don't know the easiest way to run them through

[James39]

Where so you guys run wire through the firewall at? I've gotta run my dbw pedal wires, tach, temp, CEL, obd, and aftermarket gauges, but don't know the easiest way to run them through

There's a gromet under the driver side air box housing that goes right into the cab.

Remove the rear hood sealing gasket, pull the metal clips, tuck wires in there all the way to the e-box

[Lelan]

There's a gromet under the driver side air box housing that goes right into the cab.

Remove the rear hood sealing gasket, pull the metal clips, tuck wires in there all the way to the e-box

James you are the man, I don't know what we would do with out the "pioneers" of the e39 ls1

[nsogiba]

took all of next week off for "vacation"...aka, wiring hell.

[Lelan]

took all of next week off for "vacation"...aka, wiring hell.

It's really not that bad man, my engine is wired up and ready to fire... Besides the fact that its not doing the firing part lol I'm pretty sure iit's a bad crank sensor though

[nsogiba]

i've been reading a ton the last few days and it doesn't seem so daunting. it helps that my pullout came with the original GM fuse panel still wired to the PCM and connectors. I already removed the body harness portion.

Do you still have VATS? That could be causing it.

[Lelan]

i've been reading a ton the last few days and it doesn't seem so daunting. it helps that my pullout came with the original GM fuse panel still wired to the PCM and connectors. I already removed the body harness portion.

Do you still have VATS? That could be causing it.

I put the orange battery power on a relay to switch off when the pinks switched on. (Because I wasn't thinking) then I had to run a ground wire to the body of the PCM... Haven't heard anything about having to do that in my searching, but it runs so I guess it's alright.

[James39]

I put the orange battery power on a relay to switch off when the pinks switched on. (Because I wasn't thinking) then I had to run a ground wire to the body of the PCM... Haven't heard anything about having to do that in my searching, but it runs so I guess it's alright.

That doesn't sound right to me. Were you following this guide? http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm Orange is 12v+ constant, pink are 12v in "on" and "crank" positions. All the grounds should be in the harness.

[Jesus Freak]

That doesn't sound right to me. Were you following this guide? http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm Orange is 12v+ constant, pink are 12v in "on" and "crank" positions. All the grounds should be in the harness.

I had to ground the body of my ECU too, and my harness was wired by GMPP. Ran fine for 2 days, went to start it and the fuel pump turned on, accidentally grounded the body of the ECU and heard the fuel pump kick on. Haven't had issues since.

[Lelan]

I had to ground the body of my ECU too, and my harness was wired by GMPP. Ran fine for 2 days, went to start it and the fuel pump turned on, accidentally grounded the body of the ECU and heard the fuel pump kick on. Haven't had issues since.

That doesn't sound right to me. Were you following this guide? http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm Orange is 12v+ constant, pink are 12v in "on" and "crank" positions. All the grounds should be in the harness.

I think my problem was a hidden ground wire that I missed.

[modular93fox]

There are grounds to make, coils gets grounded and so does the ecu like 4 wires

[Jesus Freak]

Yup, I counted 4 grounds... Still had to ground the body.

[nsogiba]

let me ask a dumb question.

I was able to get my fuel pump to activate only with the key to on, only by connection the purple #10 wire from the large black connector to a ground, which is obviously switched with the key. When the key is turned to "off", the fuel pump stops.

Is this a reasonable alternative to using the GM PCM to trigger the fuel pump relay (converting 12+ to ground)?

[Jesus Freak]

let me ask a dumb question.

I was able to get my fuel pump to activate only with the key to on, only by connection the purple #10 wire from the large black connector to a ground, which is obviously switched with the key. When the key is turned to "off", the fuel pump stops.

Is this a reasonable alternative to using the GM PCM to trigger the fuel pump relay (converting 12+ to ground)?

Fuel pump is PWM controlled by the GM PCM, with more throttle it bumps the pump up. At least that's how it's described in my paperwork.

[nsogiba]

PWM? Pulse width modulated?

Makes sense. Thanks!

[James39]

let me ask a dumb question.

I was able to get my fuel pump to activate only with the key to on, only by connection the purple #10 wire from the large black connector to a ground, which is obviously switched with the key. When the key is turned to "off", the fuel pump stops.

Is this a reasonable alternative to using the GM PCM to trigger the fuel pump relay (converting 12+ to ground)?

Either way, you want the PCM controlling it. If you're ever in an accident or something, the PCM will kill the fuel pump if the engine stops running.

[nsogiba]

sound advice.

i'm in the process of identifying all the plugs on the GM harness so I can lay it on the motor and route it. few questions popped up in the process - i went through and traced most back to the PCM connectors, but some of them didn't go to the PCM.

can anyone identify the following, or lemme know if i can remove them?

1. a connector, orange wire and black wire coming out. Black goes to a ground junction elsewhere in the harness, and orange goes to a 14 pin plug elsewhere in the harness. it's actually plugged into a "dead end" block off. I assume I don't need it, but am not sure.





2. the 14 pin plug. i've already removed a few wires that went back to unnecessary pins back at the PCM.



3. 16 pin connector, also has a few pins removed already. the remaining ones are a blue wire going to the 14 pin connector, a gray going to PIN46 on the PCM (5 Volt Reference EVA), a purple going to a connector shown next, and a red wire that goes to the fuse box for power. if i can get rid of the EVA(p) wire i would assume i can ditch the whole connector.


4. connector with purple wire and black. Black goes to ground, the purple goes to the 16 pin connector mentioned above.


5. a mystery connector, green wire and black wire. black goes to a ground junction, green goes to the fuse block (12V+ i assume).




6. another connector with green wire going to fuse box and black going to ground



7. what's this?

[modular93fox]

what kind of pcm are you running? ls1 or something else? as far as the connectors, if it doesnt conect to the PCM you dont need it. if it is a LS1 and is a strait On or OFF, just connect that ground wire to # 10 as you called it to the PCM 12v fuel pump on signal, go to the relay in the trunk and swap the coil side of the relay and then cut the wire that you just swaped into the ground side of the relay (which was the 12v supply) and tape it off so it doesnt short out or remove the fuse if it only does that 1 relay - unlikely) and connect it to ground. as simple as it is, the pcm will control the fuel pump through the BMW relay using the BMW wiring and almost no extra nonsense wiring was done. IF its PWM have fun cause I dont have an answer for that question.

[nsogiba]

what kind of pcm are you running? ls1 or something else? as far as the connectors, if it doesnt conect to the PCM you dont need it. if it is a LS1 and is a strait On or OFF, just connect that ground wire to # 10 as you called it to the PCM 12v fuel pump on signal, go to the relay in the trunk and swap the coil side of the relay and then cut the wire that you just swaped into the ground side of the relay (which was the 12v supply) and tape it off so it doesnt short out or remove the fuse if it only does that 1 relay - unlikely) and connect it to ground. as simple as it is, the pcm will control the fuel pump through the BMW relay using the BMW wiring and almost no extra nonsense wiring was done. IF its PWM have fun cause I dont have an answer for that question.

I'm running the stock Express van PCM (for now). Just finished a string of emails with Steve at TunedbyFrost, and it looks like the Express van PCM will not be very usable down the road. As he put it:

Hey Norb,

I have been working on it... there is really no way to get to where you need to be on this base file. It's not even suitable for most auto trans apps (would reflash it as a truck and go from there) but there is no native M6 base file that works with this OS at all. I was seeing if I could flash it as an M6 04 GTO (load an 04 GTO image since they are both 1MB controllers) and then tune it. It's not looking like I can. Since you have the harness with the green connector, you are in 1MB PCM territory. There are only a few that can drive your IAC as most of them are ETC. Your best bet for best operation is to eBay this PCM and get a "243" controller. I don't think I have any in stock; I can check tomorrow afternoon: http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/products_pcm03.htm that link gives details. The 04 GTO has native M6 support, using the Express file as a base will get you stuck in tiny idle timing tables instead of using the large high res main timing tables. The 04 GTO has native eFan support. The Express cal is built with economy in mind from the ground up, and some of it you can't tune around (minor delays in heavy fueling even with all delays 'removed', more..). The GTO cal is not that way.

Let me know what you think. Feel free to dig ebay for 12586243. I may even have a used unit on the shelf; I will check.

Thanks."

So, while I try to figure out a PCM solution, I'll continue to clean up the harness.

[James39]

I'm running the stock Express van PCM (for now). Just finished a string of emails with Steve at TunedbyFrost, and it looks like the Express van PCM will not be very usable down the road. As he put it:

Hey Norb,

I have been working on it... there is really no way to get to where you need to be on this base file. It's not even suitable for most auto trans apps (would reflash it as a truck and go from there) but there is no native M6 base file that works with this OS at all. I was seeing if I could flash it as an M6 04 GTO (load an 04 GTO image since they are both 1MB controllers) and then tune it. It's not looking like I can. Since you have the harness with the green connector, you are in 1MB PCM territory. There are only a few that can drive your IAC as most of them are ETC. Your best bet for best operation is to eBay this PCM and get a "243" controller. I don't think I have any in stock; I can check tomorrow afternoon: http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/products_pcm03.htm that link gives details. The 04 GTO has native M6 support, using the Express file as a base will get you stuck in tiny idle timing tables instead of using the large high res main timing tables. The 04 GTO has native eFan support. The Express cal is built with economy in mind from the ground up, and some of it you can't tune around (minor delays in heavy fueling even with all delays 'removed', more..). The GTO cal is not that way.

Let me know what you think. Feel free to dig ebay for 12586243. I may even have a used unit on the shelf; I will check.

Thanks."

So, while I try to figure out a PCM solution, I'll continue to clean up the harness.

You didn't pay this clown yet, did you? Walk away, find someone that knows what they are doing. He wants to sell you something closest to what your configuration is. There's no reason not to use the Van PCM. In fact, if you ever decide to go with AC, you'll be glad you have it.

[nsogiba]

That's a shame, he was highly regarded. Any recommended mail order tuners?

[James39]

That's a shame, he was highly regarded. Any recommended mail order tuners?

by who? ls1tech? gotta take that place with a huge grain of salt.

What are your plans for tuning? Mail order forever?

The 03-07 Van/Silverado, etc. 1mb PCM's offer the most flexibility over just about anything else.

Many can do DBC or DBW, I think all can do 12v ac request (with custom segment swaps), EFI Live Custom OS's, etc. They may be the perfect PCM for a swap car.

[rao]

I have had good experince working with Steve, but I have no idea on the van pcm wars.