Swagon
I am. I will try to remember to confirm and post photos when I get home. You may want to text me this evening just in case.
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Thanks a ton. Whether I depin the connector and reconfigure or cut and solder, I want to do it before going back to the shop for intake fab and retune.
never installs anything.
Where does the 12 volt power for the ignition switch come from? Battery obviously, but how?
Where does it tie in? For some reason, the 11-pin white connector in my ebox isn't getting any power ever. So the car doesn't start and the PCM isn't getting power for the startup sequence.
:: 1999 BMW 528iT ::
LS3 / T56 swapped
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From my notes, pin 8 on connector X6011 provided 12V at key on. X6011 was a connector in the cavity that held the BMW ECU. This was for a 1997 540i.
8 X6011 Signal, terminal 50 B: DME control unit S: Ignition switch 3 X6011 Start signal terminal 50 B: Start relay S: Electronic immobilizer control unit (EWS)
540i-LS3-TR6060 swap thread
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Anyone ever look into getting cluster and a/c to work with a standalone setup? I was looking at using the holley hp plug and play system.
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I am doing this. It's not any different from converting an OEM computer to stand alone.Originally Posted by DustinDTM
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I guess really my only concern was the amount of inputs/outputs on the holley system to get everything working and possibly something left over for meth injection. I'll continue researching.
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did not know about this thread. will refer to it for when I start my swap on my 03 msport.
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I have a 1996 E39 so all my cluster inputs are already analogue. So I haven't had to pull the cluster out. I've gone all through the Bentley manuals and can't seem to find the cable colour for the CEL light at the DME. Does anyone know what this is? I don't really want to pull my cluster out to trace the wire back to the DME location
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I realize this is old, but this may help others in the future. I had to bypass my EWS module under the dash. On my car ('00 540) the starter crank wire was the large black wire that comes out of the white/ clear plug in the ebox. This wire didn't have ground or power regardless of key position until the wires were jumped at the module. After it was jumped, there is 12v while the key is in the crank position.
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What size gauge wire did you use for the out of the reed relay?I figured I would add how to make a 12v switch off the AC button LED. I don't know if .5A is enough to supply the PCM's that work with 12v A/C request, but this will be enough to get the ball rolling anyway...
You will need to remove your IHKA and the front plate, and solder a small wire at the base of the LED for your 2v signal, an another small wire at the other side of the LED for the ground. Soldering was easy if you've ever done any small scale circuitry, but getting it all back together without the button contacts popping out almost sent me over the edge.
Edit, slight change to the diagram, GROUND is not just any ground, it appears that you need to tap the other side of the LED, otherwise it's always energizing the reed relay.
E39 LSX SWAP PARTS FORSALE
Black Sheep
Small wire, just a chunk of something that was unused out of my wiring harness, I'm guessing 16 gage. It's just a + signal to the PCM, so it's not drawing a lot of power.
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
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Ok thanks alot
E39 LSX SWAP PARTS FORSALE
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Bringing up an old post. But has anyone ran into the bmw scanner not reading any of the modules? Pins were soldered and fuses are good. Also tried snap on solus from work. Won't communicate either.
On a lighter note. 5.3 turbo has been running strong for a few weeks now!!
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Are you strictly talking about an obd 2 scanner or are you referring to obd 2 and something like the pasoft 1.4?
Member
Both actually. Neither will communicate with any of the modules.
Member
If the car is a 2000 or older you have to use the round diagnostic plug that is in the passenger side shock tower (requires the special round plug to obd2 connector). The round diagnostic plug to obd2 adapter is available on eBay, I paid about $9.00.
As far as a normal scanner, have you checked all the fuses? I worked at dealerships for about 5 years and commonly saw the obd2 port not function due to a blown fuse, be advised this is an merely a guess (start with the easy stuff first).
Member
I have checked all fuses but am going to double check tonight. The car is a 2000 model. I tried using the round connector under the hood with the snap on scanner and same situation. No communication with any modules.
Member
The pasoft will absolutely require the adapter to use the under hood connector. Have you checked the wiring diagrams to make sure there is power in the correct pins on the diagnostic ports? I'm not sure which pins they are off the top of my head, but that seems to be the next logical step.
Black Sheep
I had to solder in a power wire to the round adapter, as per these instructions: http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...nwards-t74608/
Or maybe you already did that?
'99 BMW 540i6 L33 5.3, PRC Heads, E-force supercharged
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1674320
Member
I'm having a tach issue at the moment. I can't get the needle to move no matter the pulses I've got it set to, or set to 4, 6, 8 whatever cylinder. I've attached the wiring diagram for my particular cluster which is a KOM unit 09/98.
KOM wiring.jpg
I tapped into the black/green and the brown/green to no avail. I mean, am I missing something? I've got signal coming out of the white wire from my PCM which is an LS1 style. Using PA soft to program it.
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If I remember correctly. Mine was the black and purple wire in the e-box. Maybe it was grey and purple. Sorry. If no one has answered your question by tomorrow, I will pull the cover and double check color.
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This thread was pretty cluttered and confusing for me so I will post my findings as I figure things out in this single post. This is all specifically from a 2000 M5 with EWS 3 and IKE M5 Cluster (3 connectors) I am not running a GM ECU. I have a PRO EFI stand alone and a custom harness from Dr. Tweakd so to apply anything in this post you have to know your own wire colors for gauge outputs etc. The EWS info is all factory bmw harness colors.
Pin 19 on blue connector is coolant temp it required de-pinning even with IKE which at first didnt make sense since it recieves signal from the network. it must feed the sensor power then the CANBUS feeds the IKE gauge from dme I guess. My factory LS sensor with no resistor sits in the middle at 185 and starts creeping at 190. Does not get into the red until 210 and 220 is pinned...that is how a gauge would be and I think I am going to leave it like that. No more dummy gauge. Tach is pin 3 on blue IKE connector also and was empty. The settings that a thread suggested to re program the cluster to 4 cyl is only correct for the GM ECU aftermarket stuff does count like an 8 cylinder. I am going to look to the e46 guys to see if someone got the oil temp gauge working somehow. I will add what pins I figured out for warning lights to this post when I get there...
Figuring out my EWS was tough because there is a ton of info on EWS 1 & 2 but not III. Basically on PA soft my EWS said everything was good and the EWS was ready to start but that black wire on the white connector (6011 I think) was still not getting key on power. That EWS does not have two wires you can just cut and twist together so you can bypass plus I wanted the EWS to function. The starter relay is behind the glovebox on this car. This is from another thread and explains what I did...
My EWS was "all enabled" because it sends a signal to the DME via a purple black wire and gets nothing from the DME so it has no idea that the DME is not even there. So the red wire into the EWS gets key on 12V, then EWS verifies the right key is in and all systems are go and it gives power to the black wire which feeds the power for the starter relay(This does not trigger relay on). The starter relay ground trigger wire is yellow/brown and goes from DME to the relay. This is what you need to ground. So It works like this: a 12v start signal from the ignition barrel (black yellow on the mss52DME)goes to DME. Then there is also a black violet wire from the EWS for the "everything is okay signal". When it gets word from the EWS that everything is okay, the next time you hit the start signal with the key the DME will ground the starter relay and let it rip. So I added a relay to change that positive 12v signal to a ground that triggers the factory relay and boom problem solved with a EWS that still functions like stock. I am going to take it a step further and take the "everything is okay" signal and use that to enable something else so it is even more difficult to hot wire this thing.
I am hopefully getting a module from Thaniel on here to kick on AC, Use the R/T and talk button as anti lag and boost scramble triggers, and get the oil temp gauge working off the can bus. That would be awesome.
Last edited by get dustd; 04-26-2017 at 01:48 PM.
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On my 2000 528i w/auto trans and the "low" (Kombi) cluster I was able to easily create a reverse light activation circuit by adding a wire to the 26 pin black connector and coding the cluster to manual. The wire is added to position #4 and when grounded the reverse lights turn on, the passenger mirror tilts down and the parking sensors activate. In researching the wiring diagrams I did see that the same can be done with the IKE cluster but it's not the same position / connector.
S.F.
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I am trying to figure out the IKE Check Engine light and the DSC light. Does anyone have any insight on this? Grounding the pins from earlier year IKE's did not do it.
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