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Thread: 1992 E36 325i LS build

  1. #51
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    1992 BMW 325i
    So I can't remember where I was uploading the pictures during the first portion of this thread, but it looks like they are offline now... Its been a while since I updated again although I do visit often and drool over other peoples progress.

    I did do a few changes this last winter. I wanted to get rid of the tall roller rockers and large valve covers and go back to the OEM style. One reason was for clearance issues, the other was to have valve covers with a proper PCV baffle system so I can stop my oil consumption. When I had the valve springs off I noticed that only one valve guide was replaced when the engine was rebuilt . All of the valves had more than 10 thou movement side to side, some were bad enough that you could hear them click as they were moved side to side lol. Two of the valves were slightly bent (still had a compression test that was within 15 psi and a leakdown test that was good). So, 16 guides, 2 valves, and some more porting around the valves and the heads were back together.

    Built some thin plates to pressure test the intake. Found 2 leaks at 30 PSI, replaced those lines.
    20170502_182244.jpg

    When cleaning up the garage mid winter I found my old axle stubs. Its pretty slight, but they were starting to twist.
    20160822_110606.jpg

    Next big thing was the EFI system. I lost my faith in MSD with the direction the company is going after they were bought out a few years ago. There is no more development for the system I bought. No more work or progress with the integration of the other components I wanted, only the odd firmware update once or twice a year. I purchased a Fast EFI system, wiring wise, it doesn't look as nice as the MSD because there is a large engine harness now, but there seems to be more support for this system.

    With the OEM valve covers on, I removed the single catch can and installed two (one clean and one dirty air). With the valve cover baffles my oil collection has been less than a teaspoon of oil in the first 500 kms.

    Engine.jpg
    Also installed a larger, 2 pass rad. 14" fan, aluminum shroud. Engine temps when its 28*C outside now maintain less than 210*F while moving and got up to 215* once while waiting in traffic for a long red light. The coolant expansion jug is from a new GMC SUV, cant remember which one, but was easy to make it work.

    The air filter is now located in front of the rad. Previously with the OEM rad I was unable to do this plus the engine always wanted to run warm. The lower part of the rad is now level with the bottom of the bumper. It does sit a steel "saddle" that I made. I want to purchase the plastic covers to between the fog lights and the wheel wells that help keep air flowing properly. Once I have those I can fab up the center bottom piece to help force air coming in the bumper to go through the rad. Intake air temps are now 15*F above ambient while moving... much better than previously sitting behind the headlight inside of the air box I made, I think it was 60-70*F above ambient before.

    The steel pipe from the air filter to the throttle body hopefully will be replaced soon with the carbon fiber one I am working on. The steel doesn't look too appealing and was intended to be temporary. The front portion of it was dented to have clearance for the hood to close. The carbon fiber piece has a curved section in a few areas to help with the hood clearance and hood release cable issues. It was the first thing I ever made with carbon fiber, never even worked with fiberglass before. A bunch of the weave is distorted, I think its from handling it too much before I was vacuum bagging it. Its tricky to get it to look professional, but it looks better than the steel/welded pipe.
    20170514_212958.jpg

    Anyways, I am not going to re-post all of the missing pictures. If someone does read the posts and wants to see something specific just let me know, I will re-post those or take a new pic of what ever you wish to see. This is what the car looks like right now.
    DSC_1518.jpg

    Also weighed the car, 3250 lbs with a full tank of fuel and no people in the car. 20 lbs heavier in the rear compared to the front. With the regular street tires on the car it leaves black marks down the highway when shifting hard into 3rd gear.

    Might have a chance to race it at a 1/2 mile event this summer although I will most likely be the slowest car there. Going to the 1/4 mile first and see what it does with the stickier tires on it before the 1/2.

    Hoping tomorrow to get my speedometer functioning again lol.
    Last edited by lloydjoe; 06-10-2017 at 11:30 PM.

  2. #52
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    Lloydjoe: Thanks for posting. Good thread. Couple of questions:

    Did your car originally come with a 210 mm diff as US market cars are 188 mm, as I understand. I was considering the Vorshlag kit and wondered the length issue.

    MSD Atomic-bummer to hear. My brother runs one on a 5.3 liter motor...clean install. Fortunately, he is happy with how it sits and likely won't require any updates. Certainly something to consider-future support.

    Do you have a picture of the clutch line holes you added to your automatic chassis? I will be doing something similiar.

    So without fuel it weighs ~3145? Did you weigh it before you began the transformation. I plan to do two weighs...

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 06-11-2017 at 12:10 PM.

  3. #53
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    Livermore, CA, USA
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    95 325
    The steel flange that is cracked is not a JTR flange.
    The cracked flange has a large hole in the center -- the JTR flange does not have a hole in the center.

    The reason the flange cracked is because the pilot is too long for the BMW differential.



    Quote Originally Posted by lloydjoe View Post
    I finally got around to removing the 2.75" driveshaft this evening and found something else. The driveshaft flange was cracked. I didn't notice it when I removed the bolt couple weeks a go. When I first looked at it, I thought that it cracked because something was in between the two surfaces creating a pressure point, but it was clean. I then measured the diameters of the centering rings and they are tight, but the do fit in each other, plus you can see marks all the way around that proves it was installed straight. Time to get another flange and get the driveshaft fixed. New diff brace and exhaust are on the list before I drive it again.


  4. #54
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    1992 BMW 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Lloydjoe: Thanks for posting. Good thread. Couple of questions:

    Did your car originally come with a 210 mm diff as US market cars are 188 mm, as I understand. I was considering the Vorshlag kit and wondered the length issue.

    MSD Atomic-bummer to hear. My brother runs one on a 5.3 liter motor...clean install. Fortunately, he is happy with how it sits and likely won't require any updates. Certainly something to consider-future support.

    Do you have a picture of the clutch line holes you added to your automatic chassis? I will be doing something similiar.

    So without fuel it weighs ~3145? Did you weigh it before you began the transformation. I plan to do two weighs...

    Thanks.
    My car originally had the smaller 188 diff in it with no LSD at all. Glad to hear that someone had no issues with the Atomic system As for the clutch lines, the automatic chassis still has the perforation in the firewall insulation for where the clutch line would be if it was a manual car. The firewall also had the marks, can't remember if I drilled it to the proper size or if was just a rubber plug in there. It would be around 3150 with no fuel, unfortunately I didn't weigh it before I started the swap, figured the information online with a car in OEM configuration would be close enough



    Quote Originally Posted by MikeJTR View Post
    The steel flange that is cracked is not a JTR flange.
    The cracked flange has a large hole in the center -- the JTR flange does not have a hole in the center.

    The reason the flange cracked is because the pilot is too long for the BMW differential.

    You are correct, the flange that cracked is not the JTR flange, I changed to the JTR when this happened. The JTR flange looks nicer and is a better product than this piece was. I sold that piece to someone on this forum, can't remember his name though. As for the pilot being too long, that is a possibility. Not sure if I measured the depth of the flange on the diff and the pilot to compare. I still have my diff in the shed I can measure, but I think I might have tossed this flange, not sure, would have to look.

  5. #55
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    1992 BMW 325i
    My carbon fiber intake pipe is now in place and functioning. Trimmed up the cover enough to fit for now. Future plan is to make a replacement cover for it from carbon fiber too. Still need to do more trimming to make it fit perfect, but the hood closes, filter is out of sight and the pipe is fairly strong.

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  6. #56
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    98 328i, 79 911SC
    That looks awesome
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  7. #57
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    Looks nearly factory...

    And thanks for the clutch comments.

  8. #58
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    1992 BMW 325i
    Ended up towing the car down to the drag strip a few weeks ago. It's been 12 years since I raced at a track, and got too excited every run I did and I know there is still some more improvements to be made on my own driving/shifting lol.

    After the first run I realized with the VHT on a track that my suspension was not set proper at all. Loads of wheel hop from me pushing the skinny pedal too much. I raced 3 times, best time was 12.59@108mph. This was shifting into second before 60 feet, spinning during second, chirping the tires into 3rd and 4th, and not getting it into 5th before the finish so I coasted the last 150-200 feet.

    After this event I installed the rear shocks on the proper sides so I can easily turn the compression adjustment (they were facing forwards and the lower control arm was in the way). Also made a set of 1/4" spacers for my front cross brace because the passenger header decided to start hammering on it while gearing down. Adjusted the rear to sit a bit taller, hoping to order a set of drag radials to try out but need to find two 16" rims first. Also going to order a line lock for proper burnouts.

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  9. #59
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    Outstanding!

    Glad to see the car with some data-real world times.

    A stock E36 runs mid 14's?

    Thanks for posting.

  10. #60
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    1992 BMW 325i
    I modified the coil pack harnesses and relocated them below the coil packs so its less noticeable. Extended the loom on some of the smaller harnesses too. Car has been running great for the most part, really enjoy driving it, lots of torque and decent mpg when your not in the throttle.

    Only issue recently was earlier this month. I went out with some buddies on their sport bikes, but instead of bringing my bike I brought my car . There was sustained higher speeds for an extended duration. It was 77*F outside that day. The coolant temp was good, never went over 205*F once we were out of town. The heat coming from the console area was noticeable but not uncomfortable at all. The next day I had a small stain on my garage floor under the rear diff. It developed a leak from the passenger side CV seal. So last night I took it out again but brought my temperature gun, driving in town it was 160-170*F pretty much everywhere. After 10 minutes of 90 mph the diff housing was over 200*F. 100 mph for a few minutes showed temps over 220*F with one area close to 260*F. These temps were on the lower 25% of the diff housing where the oil would be sitting, above the oil level the temps were lower.

    I believe the higher speeds that the car seen got the diff too warm and damaged the seal that might have been potentially week already. With the Ford 8.8 in the Explorer the diff is more exposed, gets more air flow, and probably will never see high speeds like that. Now that its in a smaller chassis with considerable less air flow it probably runs hotter than it was designed. The only air it gets is already pre-heated by the hot exhaust system that runs below the driveshaft.

    I am going to look into installing an oil cooler back there somewhere hopefully with a gear driven oil pump, from what I know they are more reliable compared to a piston or diaphragm style pump. The diff drain is 1.5" NPT and will feed the pump suction, go through the cooler and back into the diff fill port which is 0.5" NPT.

  11. #61
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    96 328is 6.0L
    The leaking seals is unfortunately a common thing on Ford 8.8 diffs from what I have researched and your post is just another prove of what I've read about them. As soon as you put them on the track or appearently even what you did on the streets, the seals just die and start to leak.

    I was considering this as an upgrade for my mostly track (road course) ls2 swapped e36, but after researching this in track/swap sections and talking to few people I came to a conclusion that for what I use my car, BMW diff is a better option.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  12. #62
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    I couldn't find the case for my gopro, not sure where it went so I borrowed one a few weeks ago and took some videos driving around. Most of it was with friends that haven't been in the car yet so I was showing them the ins and outs lol. The last clip is what I progressed to for launching the car with out spinning or bogging down and going through 4 gears.



    Its starting to cool off around here this week, so I probably will be parking it soon for winter then working on a few things like that carbon fiber cover I mentioned earlier and possibly electric exhaust cutouts.

  13. #63
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    https://youtu.be/QgvxWNfCWL0

    Not sure what happened, the link works from my desktop but not the phone... let's try this one.

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  14. #64
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    Great action videos...recharges the batteries for those that haven't been successful with V-8 PWR...yet.

    Sounds great! Thanks for posting.
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 09-17-2017 at 09:15 PM.

  15. #65
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    I haven't drove the car much the last couple of weeks. Been enjoying the summer and working on a few things. I put in a temperature controller, pump, cooler and couple of fans to cool the diff. Bought a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street SS in the 275/40R17 configuration. Put them on the Apex rims I had. Really had to lift the back of the car back up as it was way too close to the fender lip. I got it basically to the point where I felt turning the spring adjustment up higher could have ended up in a worse situation with not enough thread engagement. Both sides of the car look to be level but when launching after a burnout the passenger side squats more and the corner of the wheel rubs on the inner fender and gouges it a bit. I will be looking into rolling the fenders shortly to try and get the extra clearance I need.

    Figured I would show the video, also need to bleed the brakes a bit more after installing the line locks... the brakes work but the pedal is lower than it should be.

  16. #66
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    This is the gouge the tire received along with a pic of the squat and contact during the launch.

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  17. #67
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    Took it to the drag strip a few hours away on Friday night. With the Mickey Thompsons and line locks I managed to get a more respectable time but still feel the tires slipping in first. I think with a bit lower tire pressure or better burnout it will be quicker.

    My best run was 11.81@120.3 mph, 1.76 for the 60 foot. With the taller tires I am able to get to the finish line at the very end of 4th gear which I think is crazy for a 4.10 diff ratio.

    Spraying some PAM on the rear bumper before the event sure helped cleaning off the melted rubber this time. The car ran great and gave no issues.

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  18. #68
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    Excellent times and quite a difference from the 12.5 prior.

    Your's seem to be one of the quickest NA LS swaps...

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Excellent times and quite a difference from the 12.5 prior.

    Your's seem to be one of the quickest NA LS swaps...
    Thanks. The engine has a bit of work done to it but nothing dramatic, I am thinking the quicker times is because of the tires and that I am willing to beat on the car as it's not a daily driver .

    I would like to see an 11.6 from it next time.

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  20. #70
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    After getting a little too aggressive with shifting last weekend I believe I have ground off the synchros from reverse so I have started pulling the motor and trans today. The t56 magnum still shifts great in the forward gears, just wont go into reverse without force pushing it up and when it does it grinds then pops in.

    While disassembling I found a couple of other issues which I imagine would have got worse over time if left not repaired.

    The passenger side vorshlag motor mount is bent. You can see in the pic where the thicker part of the pad was sitting in the past, and where it has lifted to now. To repair this for now I will probably try and beat it flat then triangulate it a bit with a brace.

    The vorshlag transmission mount is also bent on the driver side. The square tube is pulled inwards. Guessing these transmission mounts should have been sleeved, that would be an easy way to resolve that issue, or use a square tube with thicker walls...

    I am thinking these two things were caused by me at the drag strip last year with the Mickey Thompsons on. When I was launching the car I was trying to get it going pretty hard off the line a few times, then when shifting I was able to chirp the tires into second and third, fourth chirping was only achieved with the street tires (Toyo proxes r1r).20190526_162703.jpg20190526_162716.jpg20190526_162546.jpg

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  21. #71
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    can't believe those mounts bent, especially considering how fucking expensive they are.... I will have to check on my vorshlag tranny mount

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    can't believe those mounts bent, especially considering how fucking expensive they are.... I will have to check on my vorshlag tranny mount
    I have had a clunk or a thud sound in the driveline for ages, always thought the diff wasn’t setup properly and there was slop in the gears. The sound was noticeable when transitioning from on to off throttle and back to on. Fixing these mounts are probably going to cost less than rebuilding a diff, so in a way I am kinda happy.


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  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by lloydjoe View Post
    I have had a clunk or a thud sound in the driveline for ages, always thought the diff wasn’t setup properly and there was slop in the gears. The sound was noticeable when transitioning from on to off throttle and back to on. Fixing these mounts are probably going to cost less than rebuilding a diff, so in a way I am kinda happy.


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    Yeah good point, do you think the bending was due to the hard launching of the car or just general use.

    Your 12.5 times are very similar to the times and issues i had with my car currently at the track, what tires did you use for that?

    I was eye balling the MT ET streets as my next tire, currently running nitto 555r in the same specs(275/40/17) glad to hear the et streets fit! i am gonna order up a pair shortly lol

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    Yeah good point, do you think the bending was due to the hard launching of the car or just general use.

    Your 12.5 times are very similar to the times and issues i had with my car currently at the track, what tires did you use for that?

    I was eye balling the MT ET streets as my next tire, currently running nitto 555r in the same specs(275/40/17) glad to hear the et streets fit! i am gonna order up a pair shortly lol
    I think the bending was from the hard launches with the slicks and me banging it into every gear as hard as possible. When I was shifting at the track my gas pedal was going down just before my clutch pedal started coming up.

    When I was running the mid 12's I had the Toyo Proxes R1R tires and I believe they are a 235/40r17? Not totally sure on the size, I think I have it listed earlier on in the thread. If not, then I can check again Friday when I am back working on the car.

    The ET Street SS tires are great. They are considerably taller than the tires I run on the street so it helps me get down the track in 4th gear still. I had to roll my fenders a bit, basically folded the inner lip up flat as i could but it's still not enough. I had to lift the rear of the car up another 3/4" or so just so it wouldn't rub and cut the sidewall when launching. This is on 550 lb springs in the rear and the compression dampening cranked to the max. It's a pain in the ass swapping tires, adjusting the coils, doing an eyeball alignment...

    Jon Volk had a turbo LS E36 and he ran the same size Hoosiers but had 900 lb springs. Way less compression than mine. With it set up like his, I dont think the car would have to be lifted at all to make them work, just need to flatten that upper edge of the wheel well arch.

    I am sure the Hoosiers perform very comparably to the MT tires. After I used the line locks and did a good 4-5 second burnout in second gear @~4500 rpm I almost shit myself at the traction improvement. I grabbed second hard enough at the track that I was laughing all the way through second gear. I think it was 1.8x for a 60 foot. I think I had about 17 psi in the tires too, next time I want to go a bit lower, maybe 15 psi as I was still spinning through first gear, not much but it was enough I could feel the rear of the car shuffle right a bit.

    FYI, nice build on your car. I have been scrolling through your posts the last few days. Been debating a turbo and 4l80 swap for a few months now and your build isnt helping my urges lol.

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  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by lloydjoe View Post
    I think the bending was from the hard launches with the slicks and me banging it into every gear as hard as possible. When I was shifting at the track my gas pedal was going down just before my clutch pedal started coming up.

    When I was running the mid 12's I had the Toyo Proxes R1R tires and I believe they are a 235/40r17? Not totally sure on the size, I think I have it listed earlier on in the thread. If not, then I can check again Friday when I am back working on the car.

    The ET Street SS tires are great. They are considerably taller than the tires I run on the street so it helps me get down the track in 4th gear still. I had to roll my fenders a bit, basically folded the inner lip up flat as i could but it's still not enough. I had to lift the rear of the car up another 3/4" or so just so it wouldn't rub and cut the sidewall when launching. This is on 550 lb springs in the rear and the compression dampening cranked to the max. It's a pain in the ass swapping tires, adjusting the coils, doing an eyeball alignment...

    Jon Volk had a turbo LS E36 and he ran the same size Hoosiers but had 900 lb springs. Way less compression than mine. With it set up like his, I dont think the car would have to be lifted at all to make them work, just need to flatten that upper edge of the wheel well arch.

    I am sure the Hoosiers perform very comparably to the MT tires. After I used the line locks and did a good 4-5 second burnout in second gear @~4500 rpm I almost shit myself at the traction improvement. I grabbed second hard enough at the track that I was laughing all the way through second gear. I think it was 1.8x for a 60 foot. I think I had about 17 psi in the tires too, next time I want to go a bit lower, maybe 15 psi as I was still spinning through first gear, not much but it was enough I could feel the rear of the car shuffle right a bit.

    FYI, nice build on your car. I have been scrolling through your posts the last few days. Been debating a turbo and 4l80 swap for a few months now and your build isnt helping my urges lol.

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    Thank you on the compliments! I hope i get it back on the road/track soon!!!


    Thank you as well for the info on the tires, I need to get that stuff dialed in a bit more to run some better times at the track... Car isn't going to be a dedicated drag car but i still want them bragging rights lol

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