Front End Replacement Questions.... (tie rods/control arms/bushing)

[Zoso]

I'm in information gathering mode. The front end of my car is real sloppy. The front tires are well worn (unevently) and the whole system feels very loose. The wheel shakes above 60mph but will stop when the left side of the suspension is loaded. My power steering feels very heavy at a stop and feels too light at highway speeds - a groove in the pavement will jerk the wheel on me. I figure I need to replace a lot of stuff in the front end.

I intend to replace the following front end parts this round:
Control arms (and both ball joints on each one)
Control arm bushings
tie rods
sway bar links

Question 1) How do I know if I need to replace my inner tie rods? The outers look easy to replace, but the inners look much more complicated. Has anyone done their inner tie rods? How much of a pain was it? Do the replacement tie rods come with the ball ends?

Question 2) In understand that the ball joints on the control arm aren't really replaceable and it is just better to replace the entire control arm. I hear that lemforder arms are worth the extra money and the light M3 ones are too much money. From my Bentley manual I see that each control arm has 3 connection points - 2 are ball joints and 1 is the bushing. Does each control arms come with both ball joints?

Question 3) I'm contemplating buying the M3 control arm bushings as I hear they are better and harder. Where can I find a good price for these bushings? Will they fit on the stock 318i control arms? Can anyone comment on the ride and handling difference over the stock bushing?

Question 4) I see some control arm bushing kits. Do they come with bushings for both sides, or each side. For example, eap4parts.com has the M3 control arm bushings for $75. Is that for one side of the car or both?


Question 5) Besides a tool to get the tie rods apart, what other specialized tools will I need?

New shocks, springs, rims, tires, and front wheel bearings are all planned for the future... Anything else you guys can think of for the front end? I think my steering box is ok still

Thanks in advance...

[500kE30]

1) I'm really don't know how to check for inner tie rods, but if there is any axial play they should be replaced. They are not hard to replace, all you need is a pipe wrench to get them off. Make sure you buy new lock plates if you replace them.

2) It is a lot less of a hassle to just reaplace the whole control arm. You never know if the old one is bent just slightly. Is it better the replace them? yes. Is it necessary? prolly not

3) Since the M3 bushing is a stock part, just search all the online parts stores for the best price. I don't know if they will fit your car or not, I know for sure it fits the '86 325es. the steering response is faster because it increases caster. the reason they are harder is because they are solid unlike regular e30 bushings.

4) $75 is probably the price for just one. but you will have to check with the people selling them. I would stick with buying the M3 bushing if you can.

5) Since you are going to discard the old parts you can use a pickle fork to separate the ball joints, much easier than a puller. you rent one for free at pep boys

[GQ_Style]

For Q1 and Q5: I think it is infinitely easier if you just purchased a complete tie rod (both inner and outer as one unit) and replaced the whole thing. For the outer joint, you'll need either: 1.) Ball Joint Seperator, 2.) 5 pound sledgehammer, or, 3.) crowbar. I used the hammer. For the inner portion, you'll need a hammer and chisel for the washer, and plyers for removing the washer, and a 32mm (? pls check on size). Pretty straight forward. With the knowledge that the hammer frees all, it only took me 1 hour per side. I can do it in 30-45 minutes now.

Q2: For the 3-series, the outer ball joint on the lower control arm is replacable but will need to be pressed out and in. The M control arm bushings are totally not replacable (heresay). Yes, each control arm (for all E36 versions) has two ball joints, and will come with the control arm if you purchase it new.

Q3: The 95 M3 LCA bushing is a solid bushing and won't wear as quickly and easily at the 3-series bushing. Your caster will change but probably not noticeably. If your old bushing was worn out, you will notice better reponse because of replacing a worn out part. I suggest you do it just for the fact that it won't self destruct in x miles.

Q4: Each shop is different, and the prices vary widely. You need to call them to be sure. There's no other way to be 100% certain.

Check your power steering fluid can, look at the hoses for leaks. That will do it for you.

[500kE30]

you can also use a pickle fork to remove ball joints if you are not concerned about damaging the rubber boot. Much easier than using a hammer or a puller.