BoldUlysses' '95 525i/5 Log & Thread o'Questions

[BoldUlysses]

95% sure it's the tires.

After swapping fronts to rear last night, the commute this morning was....eerily smooth from the front, with only a hint of shimmy from the rear.

I'd put off doing thrust arms for ages because the shimmy seemed to come and go and not be too severe when it did appear, but I suspect the compliance of the tires masked how bad they really were getting. And when I finally replaced the thrust arms, the effect of driving on bad bushings for so long on the tires surfaced. That's my theory, at least.

Time to replace the dog bones and order new tires.

[jbondbmw]

95% sure it's the tires.

After swapping fronts to rear last night, the commute this morning was....eerily smooth from the front, with only a hint of shimmy from the rear.

I'd put off doing thrust arms for ages because the shimmy seemed to come and go and not be too severe when it did appear, but I suspect the compliance of the tires masked how bad they really were getting. And when I finally replaced the thrust arms, the effect of driving on bad bushings for so long on the tires surfaced. That's my theory, at least.

Time to replace the dog bones and order new tires.

Glad to hear you have figured out the issue. Time for new wheels to go with the tires?

[BoldUlysses]

I wish. No-go with the budget at the moment.

[Leonator134]

Basketweaves look awesome anyway!

[jbondbmw]

I wish. No-go with the budget at the moment.

Understandable. I am postponing some fun purchases due to paying the deductibles on my surgery and Valentines Day. I also want to visit The Tail Of The Dragon again in the spring, so I gotta save up for that, too. I can't decide if I should get lowing springs before that trip, too.

The good thing about the 15's though is a nice ride and they are light so you won't wear our your new front end. My car decided to eat bushings after I went to 17's.

[BoldUlysses]

Random from back in January:



Not bad for 170K, I think.

[thatonedood]

Noice. Are you still chasing that lifter tick?

[BoldUlysses]

Yeah I am. The above picture was actually taken during my first attempt. I say attempt because I got to the point where I would have to lock the crank and remove the cam gears, but I couldn't simultaneously turn the front pulley bolt from under the car and push the locking tool into the flywheel. The fan clutch nut decided to be stubborn that day (read: It wouldn't budge, and I don't have the service tools, but I've never had a problem before), so I couldn't rotate the engine from the top with my left hand whilst pushing the locking tool in with my right.

So it was pretty much a waste of a day and a set valve cover gaskets. Other than the above picture, that is. Will try again next oil change.

[thatonedood]

Mm, that blows. That's some serious digging in. Good luck with the next go.

[Binjammin]

I can see the cause of your lifter tick in that pic...

[BoldUlysses]

I'm all ears.

[Binjammin]

I'm all lies and bullcrap.

[BoldUlysses]

I knew it was too good to be true. Oh well, TANSTAAFL...

[Binjammin]

I wonder though... have you ever stethescoped the engine? See if you can get a good idea of exactly which cylinder is ticking? If you can't localize it to one lifter, perhaps your vanos is making some noise instead?


Stupid question, but have you tried a lighter grade oil?

[BoldUlysses]

I wonder though... have you ever stethescoped the engine? See if you can get a good idea of exactly which cylinder is ticking? If you can't localize it to one lifter, perhaps your vanos is making some noise instead?


Stupid question, but have you tried a lighter grade oil?

No, I haven't stethoscoped the engine. I did check and retorque the spark plugs, though, just to make sure it wasn't one of them.

It doesn't sound like the rattle-y "can of marbles" VANOS noise. It's an intermittent TICK-TICK-TICK-TICK at low rpm when the engine is warm. As soon as the oil pressure goes up the tick disappears.

I've tried 10-30, 15-50 and have added MMO a couple of times. Currently running 15W-40 Rotella T, which the PO always had put in and which I like.

[Binjammin]

Give 0w30 a try and see if that helps out.

[Javathehut]

I have the same tick and I have taken it to about seven different guys to check it out... six said it is normal for the engine and maybe new lifters would help, one suggested buying another engine and rebuilding using the best parts from both ....

hey binj.. LTNS

[Binjammin]

I have the same tick and I have taken it to about seven different guys to check it out... six said it is normal for the engine and maybe new lifters would help, one suggested buying another engine and rebuilding using the best parts from both ....

hey binj.. LTNS

Wow, now THAT'S a blast from the past! Only been a few years... how's coffee?


And you shouldn't need to rebuild the engine to solve lifter tick, lol. I'd imagine worst case would be a top end rebuild.

[BoldUlysses]

I have the same tick and I have taken it to about seven different guys to check it out... six said it is normal for the engine and maybe new lifters would help, one suggested buying another engine and rebuilding using the best parts from both ....

As cliche as it sounds, I'm not going to accept that it's "normal." The sound is like nails on a chalkboard to me, even if it is (mostly) benign. After the undercarriage is refreshed, lifter tick is getting the full brunt of my attention.

[Binjammin]

Everyone says m30s are supposed to sound like rock crushers being fed the skulls of children. Mine was silent other than the tick of the injectors and the leak of the coolant. These cars didn't leave the factory ticking or leaking, there's no reason they should do either now. If there's a tick, there's a reason why. I think I'd start off by getting a mechanic's stethoscope, like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FYXc4Aod2RUAJQ

Give the motor a good listening to, see if you can figure out the general area of the tick. You can usually narrow it down to a specific pair of valves. It's easy to tell which cylinder is ticking, and it's easy to tell which cam is ticking, but a pair of valves next to each other is difficult to differentiate. From there, well, if you're going to replace one lifter, you may as well replace them all anyway, but I'm sure they're probably like $18 a piece. You could always try checking the clearances on them, if one isn't pumping up it may be worn, and may have looser clearances than the rest. Don't know if you can get a feeler gauge into the m50 cam tray to check, but that would be a good start too.

If you can narrow it down to which lifter specifically, from there try to figure out why it's ticking. Crud in the oil passage to the lifter bore? Crud in the lifter itself? Worn pad on the bucket? ...etc...

[Stereoinstaller1]

Wow..car is a beauty!

I hope to be joining you in the "95 525i/5" description soon.

We will see if i can make mine as pretty as yours!

Also, did you tighten your steering box adjustment? If your steering wheel feels like it has any "play" or slop at all, adjust that thing!

GL
Luke

[Javathehut]

As not to hi jack Ulysses's thread Binj I just made a new one.. I will answer coffee there.. long story but not as long as the drive to Butte... Visit me in my thread meng.. Ulysses I am intersted in where this leads ..keep us posted ... thanks

the tick drives me nuts, I hear ya on that. I also am not ready to give up on quieting that sound. The worst is at turnpike booths, tight streets, or anywhere where there are barriers over two feet tall... "look out people .... giant orient blue ticking alarm clock coming through... move it people"... That was in the voice of the main host on project runway in case anyone wanted to know

[Binjammin]

Wow..car is a beauty!

I hope to be joining you in the "95 525i/5" description soon.

We will see if i can make mine as pretty as yours!

Also, did you tighten your steering box adjustment? If your steering wheel feels like it has any "play" or slop at all, adjust that thing!

GL
Luke

That adjustment just changes feedback through the box, it does not actually remove any play in the system.

[BoldUlysses]

Everyone says m30s are supposed to sound like rock crushers being fed the skulls of children. Mine was silent other than the tick of the injectors and the leak of the coolant. These cars didn't leave the factory ticking or leaking, there's no reason they should do either now. If there's a tick, there's a reason why. I think I'd start off by getting a mechanic's stethoscope, like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FYXc4Aod2RUAJQ

Give the motor a good listening to, see if you can figure out the general area of the tick. You can usually narrow it down to a specific pair of valves. It's easy to tell which cylinder is ticking, and it's easy to tell which cam is ticking, but a pair of valves next to each other is difficult to differentiate. From there, well, if you're going to replace one lifter, you may as well replace them all anyway, but I'm sure they're probably like $18 a piece. You could always try checking the clearances on them, if one isn't pumping up it may be worn, and may have looser clearances than the rest. Don't know if you can get a feeler gauge into the m50 cam tray to check, but that would be a good start too.

If you can narrow it down to which lifter specifically, from there try to figure out why it's ticking. Crud in the oil passage to the lifter bore? Crud in the lifter itself? Worn pad on the bucket? ...etc...

I've heard "sewing machine" for the M30, which is pretty close to what my old 635's sounded like. I was fine with it.

You think I'll be able to narrow down the sound even with the valve cover on? Suppose it's worth a shot.

The original plan was to remove all the lifters, keep them organized via egg cartons, and to clean all of them in my parts cleaning tank, dunk them in fresh oil and reinstall. Any reason I couldn't clean them? Are the internal galleries too small or inaccessible?

Wow..car is a beauty!

I hope to be joining you in the "95 525i/5" description soon.

We will see if i can make mine as pretty as yours!

Also, did you tighten your steering box adjustment? If your steering wheel feels like it has any "play" or slop at all, adjust that thing!

GL
Luke

Thanks Luke! My steering feels fine, actually. Tightest recirc. box I've ever had (boy does that sound dirty ). No complaints.

[Binjammin]

I've heard "sewing machine" for the M30, which is pretty close to what my old 635's sounded like. I was fine with it.

You think I'll be able to narrow down the sound even with the valve cover on? Suppose it's worth a shot.

The original plan was to remove all the lifters, keep them organized via egg cartons, and to clean all of them in my parts cleaning tank, dunk them in fresh oil and reinstall. Any reason I couldn't clean them? Are the internal galleries too small or inaccessible?



Thanks Luke! My steering feels fine, actually. Tightest recirc. box I've ever had (boy does that sound dirty ). No complaints.

I can't think of any reason you couldn't clean them. I'd find someone with a used lifter and cut it up, see if you can figure a few potential points of failure. I *doubt* there are any organic parts in there, like a rubber o-ring. If they're all metal I'd say get yourself a tank of xylene and soak them in that for a few days. Maybe see about getting an old school oil can, like this:



and pump each lifter up with xylene so it's actually displaced the oil inside, let it sit and work its magic, then neutralize the xylene, pump them full of oil, and reinstall.

Also, yeah, you'd be amazed what you can here with a simple scope like that. Just throw the ears in, and touch the tip to wherever you want to hear. Stuff you'd never heard before will be clear as day.