It's time. Here she is:
I'm the 2nd owner; bought it in April of 2010 with 143K. Currently 171K.
One of the most dependable cars I've owned. It just keeps on going.
- Clearcoat giving up the ghost on the roof
- Front passenger and rear driver side windows inop.
- Passenger power headrest does not go up or down.
- Lifter tick while warm.
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Anyway now that I've got it back in the garage I'm trying to take care of the outstanding issues, and I figured it was time to start a log rather than keeping posting questions in the E34 OT thread.
- Fixed steering wheel squeak
- Fixed door stay pop/crack
- Replaced all door handle gaskets
- Replaced thrust arms (Meyle HD), sway bar end links (Meyle HD), lower control arms (steel, TRW), tie rods and dog bones (Meyle)
- New roundel
- New tires
Current focus: Eliminating lifter tick.
Last edited by BoldUlysses; 03-11-2013 at 09:19 PM. Reason: recent progress
Looks nice indeed.
Wow thats clean!
About time you did this thread..... These threads are great for you and its future owner. Besides, we all love to read them.
Thanks Pat. It's not as clean as it looks it the pics, haha. But I appreciate it.
I have a build log for the Z on my blog, but I don't really want to talk about the E34 over there, seeing as how it's my DD. Maybe it I really start modding it I will, but otherwise nah.
* * * * * *
Okay so first questions. Help me fix the shimmy. As mentioned, the UCAs, LCAs and sway bar end links are all new, good quality parts installed properly. Tires are pretty worn, but I don't think it's them, seeing as how if they were out of balance I'd get a shimmy at any speed, but this only manifests itself above 60 mph or so. Is my line of reasoning on the tires correct?
I've had strut/shock mounts recommended, along with idler arm and potentially rear dog bones. Can someone point me in the direction of a part # for the strut/shock mounts? I've never installed such parts before (I have a set of spring compressors, though) so I'm having trouble finding them on the RealOEM diagrams. Thanks!
New tires make a world of difference. If the front stuff has been replaced, I'd start with some tires for the front.
Also the rear pitman arms make a huge difference.
I'm sure you installed your UCABS and LCABS to spec?
I had the shimmy real bad. I replaced everything. I mean everything. And it was gone, untill I got my 18" style 65's... and it came back.
I found the solution to be in the 'thrust arms' (UCAs). You HAVE to go poly-u. It was my answer and I swear by it. I run the powerflex purples and have never looked back.
I have a set of dog bones to install. The guy from BMA said a shimmy that those would fix would be felt more in the seat than through the steering, and while I don't feel it primarily through the steering wheel, it definitely seems to be coming from the front end. We'll see.
Plan to rotate the tires front to back, same side, next and see if that makes any difference, good or bad. Basically one thing at a time.
My suggestion is tires as well because swapping front to back is easy to do.
Was all of the steering linkage done as well?
I would believe it could be the tires as well for two reasons. One, when I got my E34 and before I got rid of the tires it came with I got a shimmy occasionally. Second, and this only applies to people in the north really, when we get deep snow, you end up with snow on the inside of the alloys throwing them out of balance and the vibration only shows up at higher speeds, so your wheels could be only slightly out of balance and it only shows up at highway speed.
Car looked good when I saw it last year. Did someone steal your hood roundel? Sorry to hear about the clearcoat.
Oh, what causes the steering wheel squeak? Mine had that and I never even tried to fix it.
Last edited by jbondbmw; 02-11-2013 at 01:02 PM.
Nah it just flaked off one day. The metal "base" disc is still there but the top element is gone. I'll replace it soon enough; all available money's been going toward need-to-fix stuff first, though.Car looked good when I saw it last year. Did someone steal your hood roundel? Sorry to hear about the clearcoat.
Based on a forum search it seems to vary but the most common culprit is the slip ring behind the wheel. Lubed it up with white lithium grease and all was well.Oh, what causes the steering wheel squeak? Mine had that and I never even tried to fix it.
Last edited by BoldUlysses; 02-11-2013 at 01:05 PM.
What is also a bummer is I had a spare roundel I gave to my buddy to stick on his 1990 Ford Econoline as a joke and to piss of his buddy in CA (since he has several BMW bikes). Had I known, I would have sent it to you as in your case it is needed.
Last edited by jbondbmw; 02-11-2013 at 02:46 PM.
Beautiful car and I love the clean engine bay!
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
My Build Thread
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
Trade you my 540i/6.
If I were to give my Touring a first name, I'd probably name it "Alan".
Mostly because I like puns.
I'll give you a set of throwing stars with fresh rubber in exchange for a year of moderator powers starting from the date of delivery.
Got the wheels swapped front to back. We'll see if that makes any difference tomorrow during the commute.
Got a chance to check out the dog bones; they're completely shot. I wonder if that could be contributing to my problems? I have a spare set to install, and I almost did—they were just hanging out there, tantalizingly close, but:
1. I had a sinking feeling they would take much longer to replace than they looked like, and
2. I wanna do this as "scientifically" as I can, changing one thing at a time so I can figure out what the problem is once and for all.
Examined the steering linkages as well—they're all completely fine; no torn boots or play anywhere.
Dog bones are pretty easy to do, shouldn't take long at all, hardest part is having to jack up the control arm just right to remove/install bolts. They won't contribute to your shimmy though, you can run the car without them altogether. Bad dog bones will usually give you a nice clunk in the rear.
Gotta hate tracking down the shimmy, I'm about to start that on my car right now. It's never easy and it always seems to be something different
'88 s54 e30, '00 m5
Thanks for the input. No clunk from the rear at all, and yet the dog bone boots are all ripped to shreds, dried and flaking off. Hmm.
May tackle them tomorrow just 'cause I have the parts.
I found that bad rear pitman arms led to a rear steer sensation and tramlining.
I also noted some rear end movement mid turn while driving aggressively.