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Thread: E46 Cluster not working fully

  1. #1
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    E46 Cluster not working fully

    BMW e46 instrument cluster 1999 323ci, hi my brother jump started my car direct from battery.

    Since then ALL my cluster dials/gauges (fuel, speedo, rev, temp) have stopped working, my digital display and lights work only gauges on cluster do not work....help??

    I have checked all fuses and in particular 10, 34, and 43, but still no joy!

    Please help
    Richard

  2. #2
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    Have you tried simply unpluggping and re-plugging back in?
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  3. #3
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    Yes I have tried unplugging and re-pluggin back in no joy

  4. #4
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    You said you checked the fuses, but have you tried replaceing any of them to see if that works?
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  5. #5
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    yes I have checked fuses with meter plugged in and out, also used the spare fuses which are in the glove box, still no joy

  6. #6
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    got this off another forum:
    1. Turn off the car.
    2. Remove fuse 10, 34, 43
    3. Start your car back on.
    4. Turn it off again.
    5. Put in all the fuses, turn on again and see if it works.
    6. If not, turn on the car, remove fuse 43 and note response and functionality.
    7. Do the same for fuse 34.
    8. If my guess is correct fuse 10 disables the entire cluster.

    If its a firmware state problem the above should help, if its a hardware related problem then it won't.
    National Capital Chapter #465420 ///M Registry
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    Tuning Tech Tune by Frank Smith (http://www.tuningtechfs.com/)
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    Previous:
    2003 X5 4.6iS | Black Sapphire | Black Sport | Titan Trim | DINAN | SOLD
    2006 X3 3.0i | Silver Gray | Terracotta | M-Sport | SOLD

    2000 323Ci | TiAg | Gray | 5MT | SOLD

  7. #7
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    ok will give that a go in the morning, and report back, going on te assupmtion that it is a harware related problem what are options?

  8. #8
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    Have you tried the cluster test?

    1. Hold Trip Reset while turning ignition key to on position
    2. OBC should show "Test"
    3. Repeatedly press Trip Reset to select function 19.0 to unlock all of the features
    3. Wait for display to show "Off"
    4. Depress Trip Reset for 1/4 second and release it
    5. With no delay press Trip Reset repeatedly until 2, or 2.0 maybe, is shown and stop. All the gauges should go through their full range of motion. Pulled from ZHP Mafia list: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...C-Access-Codes

  9. #9
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    thanks telijah.... I have tried the test 2 function, all my lights on the cluster come up however the gauges DO NOT go through their full range of motion, any other suggestions?

  10. #10
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    How many miles where on the car?

    Might of shortage the gauge cluster.

    I had one come in, the owner did the same thing.

    The GAUGE CLUSTER WAS THROWING A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT even tho their was none.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdauria View Post
    got this off another forum:
    1. Turn off the car.
    2. Remove fuse 10, 34, 43
    3. Start your car back on.
    4. Turn it off again.
    5. Put in all the fuses, turn on again and see if it works.
    6. If not, turn on the car, remove fuse 43 and note response and functionality.
    7. Do the same for fuse 34.
    8. If my guess is correct fuse 10 disables the entire cluster.

    If its a firmware state problem the above should help, if its a hardware related problem then it won't.
    I have tried this but still no joy, any suggestions for cluster itself to check for?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cablekid View Post
    How many miles where on the car?

    Might of shortage the gauge cluster.

    I had one come in, the owner did the same thing.

    The GAUGE CLUSTER WAS THROWING A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT even tho their was none.
    The car has done 69K miles .....any suggestions?

    All Fuses checked in fuse box located in glove box, especially fuses 10, 34, 43. – the are fine
    I have also checked the power wires at the cluster pins and especially at pins 4, 5, and 6 at connector 11175, power is coming fine to cluster.
    Tried simply unplugging and re-plugging back in – no joy!
    Cluster test 2.0 carried out all lights come on, however gauges DO NOT go through their full range of motion.
    Can anyone suggest anything further to check or test?
    Could it be a hardware, cluster fault? Can this be repaired or, do I need a new cluster?

    All Fuses checked in fuse box located in glove box, especially fuses 10, 34, 43. – the are fine
    I have also checked the power wires at the cluster pins and especially at pins 4, 5, and 6 at connector 11175, power is coming fine to cluster.
    Tried simply unplugging and re-plugging back in – no joy!
    Cluster test 2.0 carried out all lights come on, however gauges DO NOT go through their full range of motion.
    Can anyone suggest anything further to check or test?
    Could it be a hardware, cluster fault? Can this be repaired or, do I need a new cluster?

    All Fuses checked in fuse box located in glove box, especially fuses 10, 34, 43. – the are fine

    I have also checked the power wires at the cluster pins and especially at pins 4, 5, and 6 at connector 11175, power is coming fine to cluster.

    Tried simply unplugging and re-plugging back in – no joy!

    Cluster test 2.0 carried out all lights come on, however gauges DO NOT go through their full range of motion.

    Can anyone suggest anything further to check or test?

    Could it be a hardware, cluster fault? Can this be repaired or, do I need a new cluster?
    Last edited by Richard1980; 01-30-2013 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  12. #12
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    you got me man, I gave all my suggestions and possible solutions. Maybe someone else can chime in and help you. I would try as many things as possible before getting a new cluster. They are expensive

    Try the stealership?
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  13. #13
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    If the test two failed, then you've probably fried the mechanics of the gauges. Aside from taking the cluster out and doing a probe on everything, it may be shot. If I remember correctly, you may be able to bring the cluster itself to a indy shop or dealership and they should be able to confirm for you if it is dead or not.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by telijah View Post
    If the test two failed, then you've probably fried the mechanics of the gauges. Aside from taking the cluster out and doing a probe on everything, it may be shot. If I remember correctly, you may be able to bring the cluster itself to a indy shop or dealership and they should be able to confirm for you if it is dead or not.
    But wouldnt a re-programmed (new) cluster be $$$$?
    National Capital Chapter #465420 ///M Registry
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    Previous:
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  15. #15
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    Yes, but what are you're options if the cluster is bad...? Maybe, MAYBE, you can source a cluster from a junk lot, and if you are able to, transplant to specific mechanical gauges over? But why go through that if you for sure do not know the root cause? You've done a lot more than most would have already before deciding to get another cluster, so I think for peace of mind, have a dealer run the cluster is not a bad idea at this point.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by telijah View Post
    Yes, but what are you're options if the cluster is bad...? Maybe, MAYBE, you can source a cluster from a junk lot, and if you are able to, transplant to specific mechanical gauges over? But why go through that if you for sure do not know the root cause? You've done a lot more than most would have already before deciding to get another cluster, so I think for peace of mind, have a dealer run the cluster is not a bad idea at this point.
    True. If it were mean and my car had a lot of miles on it, I would just source any cluster and drop it in. I wouldnt care if the mileage tamper light came on. (Also meaning the car was mine for life LOL)
    National Capital Chapter #465420 ///M Registry
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    Previous:
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    2006 X3 3.0i | Silver Gray | Terracotta | M-Sport | SOLD

    2000 323Ci | TiAg | Gray | 5MT | SOLD

  17. #17
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    Sorry to bring up old thread but did you manage to fix the problem with the cluster ? How did you fix it ?

  18. #18
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    Hi I sourced a 2nd hand replacement cluster from a BMW brakers yard, as a brand new one from BMW with coding was looking at £900. (You could also check ebay)

    You will need to make sure you match the “motometer” number (e.g. 0 263 606 230) and BMW part no number (e.g. 6 910 279) info found on the sticker on your cluster, and ensure the cluster came out of a petrol or diesel, manual or auto what matched your existing spec.

    By doing this it should therefore simply plug and play the only thing required will be the mileage will need correction unless it’s a close match and will cost you around £50.

    I manage to get mine sourced and mileage corrected for £140 and saved £760 had I gone to the BMW dealer direct.

    Hope that helps Magicman0027

    Regards
    Richard

  19. #19
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    Apologies for replying to old thread but

    *******************Fixed my instrument cluster and here's how................******************

    So hadn't driven my car for a couple of days, started it up yesterday and the instrument cluster failed, all other car functions work perfectly including seat belt and battery light.

    I had no speedo, rev counter, trip computer, fuel or temp guage and most warning indicators had failed. I looked to these forums that all said faulty cluster bit of a known issue either repair for £250 or new £450+ inc fitting.

    Now i am no expert and i am sure i will have a few nay sayers but all i can tell you i am not afraid to try a bit of DIY and my instrument cluster is now working.

    Before i went through these next steps i individually checked every single fuse just in case i was missing something when reading the fuse map, but still no joy.

    Step 1 Unplugged Battery (Located in the boot, for those that are not sure)
    2 Removed instrument cluster (2 torque screws located on the top infrom of the Speed and rev counters)
    3 Unplugged connectors from rear of cluster (one white and one black) will need a flat head screw driver to push done the tab and release the clasp)
    (you may also need to drop the steering wheel down to slide it out)
    4 now this is the funny bit........ removed the back housing panel (a number of smaller torque screws possibly 6 or 7
    5 Took out the dials and placed unit on the ...............warm Radiator for 20 minutes (the unit wasn't damp and i don't know why i done this)
    6 whilst taking it apart a couple of the silver dial frames fell out which was a paint to super glue back in.
    7 Put unit back together and re inserted in the car
    8 re-connected the battery.
    9 Crossed my fingers and started the car........ (hay presto unit came back to life with a couple of warning lights and dsc light on for a bit longer than normal but after driving about 100 yards every looked normal. and has been fine since. all in all took about an hour, but as i said i am no expert. and can't tell you which of these steps was responsible. but saved me a few hundred quid.

    let me know how you get on?

  20. #20
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    Hey, sorry for replying to an old thread, but i have a similiar problem..
    Cluster is acting all crazy.. speedo and average mileage are working fine, temperature and RPM are acting weird - temp is to the max and no red light, even though car temp if fine. Random lights come on and off, temperature on the heater keeps changing from C to F and back...
    I've tried couple of things:

    Tried the 10, 34 and 43 fuses thing, worked for a mile drive, then turned off the car and same problem came back.
    Tried disconnecting the battery, taking out the cluster, checked if there's anything funny or burned, everything seemed fine. Put it back in, connected the battery, still the same.
    Tried the cluster test, all lights fine, gauges move fine.
    Did the voltage test: with the motor on, it's 13.8 and it goes to 14 eventually. with the motor off it's about 12.7 after a drive, but after about 15 minutes staying in one spot with the radio on, it drops to 12.2V.

    The thing is, this happened first when i drove for hours in the rain and i thought maybe it's moisture. Turned off the car and back on and it was fine for a month. And yesterday also after a long drive (8 hrs) it started doing this again, but now it's going crazy ALL the time. It's even more weird, if i hit on the dash with my hand, it works for some time, for example until i use indicator lights..

    Now it's like this most of the time:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ezdee3xr4f...%2016.jpg?dl=0


    Any help would be appreciated.

  21. #21
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    Try removing the cluster, disassembling, and let it dry out for 24 hours. If there is moisture trapped in it, this should take care of it. Others have tried putting the cluster in the oven at low temperature for a couple hours with success.

  22. #22
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    Tried drying it on a radiator for a day, no change. Soon as i put it back it and turn on the indicator light, right or left, it goes back to zombie mode.

    I'm reading this thread and suspecting the battery... http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...en-won-t-start (but why would it help hitting on the dash above the cluster?)

    In the winter i had the radio on for less than an hour and did some diagnostics on my LPG system with my laptop hooked up to it for about half an hour and after that it wouldn't start. Had to call the service and the guy jump started the car next morning.
    Last edited by oposum; 04-14-2015 at 01:59 AM.

  23. #23
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    Any ideas?

  24. #24
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    Found out i have a 120A alternator and the battery was just 85Ah. Replaced the battery with a 100Ah one and everything is back to normal!

  25. #25
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    Post

    Was good for about 5 days, now the gremlins are back

    This is how it looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_mlgoAIfSc

    When i turn off the lights and hit on the dash (above the cluster), things go back to normal.
    And on the end of the video you can see about 1 sec delay of lights turning off when i remove the key from the ignition.

    I ordered a new ignition switch, hoping it will solve all this bulls***!

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