E36 Ford Coyote Swap Build Thread

[Fendbass22]

Once I knew my pushrod was letting go (knocking real bad) I knew it was time to step it up. I decided to go to with the F-150 variant of the Coyote because I scored one locally for $1800 with 10k miles. I know, 40 hp less. However, I did not want to by a $7000 engine and find out it does not fit. F-150s are being tuned to 355-365WHP. To add, I've only spent about $5800 on this so far. The only difference is the cams and pistons (10.5:1 vs 11:1).

2011 F-150 Coyote $1800
2002 Mustang GT TR-3650, clutch, and flywheel $600
Ford Coyote Controls Pack $1400
The rest is raw materials, bushings, etc.

Test Fit:


It was obvious that the stock brake booster would not fit.


Space on either side of the motor.




Radius on oil pan will need to be removed to clear cross member.


Starting to get it welded up.


Oil Pan complete. I screwed and sealed it to a piece of MDF. I pressurized the oil pan through the MDF to check for leaks, fixed any I found. Factory windage tray was cut out to weld chamfer in bottom. Windage tray was then welded back in.


Milling out motor mount pieces.




Energy Suspension bushings inside DOM tube with 5/8" bolt.




Drivers side header. Probably the most difficult part. What a serious pain in the ass. For anyone thinking about making any, really think it through. In this case, I had NO CHOICE. I've had a ton of people give me their 2 cents on my design. Their mouth drops when I show them in person how tight it really is. I've used every possible square inch of space. Majority of Coyote headers use the Tri-Y design. I decided to go that route.

Drivers side.


Steering shaft goes through the middle of the header.


Passenger side.


Both. Header flanges and driveshaft were the only thing I didn't make myself on this whole project. My mill won't do 3/8" stainless very well. They were cut on a waterjet, about $200. They warped a little while welding so I had to have the surfaces ground flat at local engine builder. R and L Engine in Dover, NH are great people.



This is where I might lose some people. I had to move the steering shaft where it meets the firewall about 3/4" toward the drivers side. It was the only way to keep the engine centered. You can't even notice at the wheel. The gray material is not JB weld, it is body panel adhesive. Underneath is 1/2" spot welds around the plate. Adhesive is for strength and to seal up the firewall.


All new Coyote vehicles do not have power steering pumps because they have electric steering. Where the A/C compressor is supposed to be is where I fabricated a mounting bracket to fit the E36 pump.

[Fendbass22]

All mounts painted.


2001 Cobra Hydraulic Brake Booster. I would have this connected already but there are two PTFE (sp?) fittings I need on backorder.


One of many trial and error mistakes. I mounted the ABS pump here and then could not get the head light in.


It is now facing this way.


Tranny mount.


As you can see I am salvaging the last half of my exhaust from the previous swap. I will be fabricating the rest in stainless once I hear how raspy the Flowmaster is with the Coyote. As you can see by the video... it still has some snap and crackle.


Shifter location is exactly where it should be. Like it was meant to be there!


Exhaust.




Looks pretty low in the pic, not too bad.


Driver side clearance.


Passenger side clearance.


Oil Filter Location.


Radiator Clearance.


Start of intake tube. Still a work in progress. Going to build a SS box down by the bumper to get cool air.


Hood shuts. So dirty!


What is left:
- Mount slave cylinder and connections.
- Power steering hoses.
- Radiator mounts, cooling fan mount.
- Intake and cold air box fab.
- Mount DBW pedal from Controls Pack kit.
- Put interior back together.

Enjoy!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp3h2YmShAA[/ame]

[birdman2447]

Very nice work, I don't know much about those trannys, are they pretty strong? I wonder how much easier this would be in a e39?

[Fendbass22]

Very nice work, I don't know much about those trannys, are they pretty strong? I wonder how much easier this would be in a e39?

I heard they have a weak point around 375WHP which is unfortunate but if it breaks, time to go Tremec.

[bimerok]

Very Nice!

Is your mill CNC or manual? Love the way mount ears came out! I had to cut my square and then grind them to that shape...

[Fendbass22]

Very Nice!

Is your mill CNC or manual? Love the way mount ears came out! I had to cut my square and then grind them to that shape...

It is CNC converted. Does pretty well for most things. The motors are stepper so it will miss steps if I push it really hard. Takes quite a bit to miss steps though.

[BRAAP]

Nice work, good to see the giant fits.

[arathbone]

Congrats on the success! Awesome

[Kaane]

Excellent fabwork, coyote motors are awesome, especially on some boost.

I just had mine dynoed on a cold day yesterday at 11psi boost on the paxton 2200SL. 91 octane, stock exhaust.

[Fendbass22]

Excellent fabwork, coyote motors are awesome, especially on some boost.

I just had mine dynoed on a cold day yesterday at 11psi boost on the paxton 2200SL. 91 octane, stock exhaust.

Oh those are the numbers I wanna see!

Edit: wow after looking on their site that is really going to be tight.

[kizoptrebor]

Thought about this before, glad someone did it!

[PJ325i]

Awesome work as usual!!

[AzNVi3t2007]

Nice work, I still havent got a chance to piece my 302 swap all together.. Still gonna be a while til I'm done. Ran into financial issues.

[Fendbass22]

Well made some progress today.

Made a mounting plate for MAF sensor. Welded in intake tube. Had to put a 25 degree cut to make the tube work.








Had something happen that really sucked today. Went to bleed the clutch slave and was not getting anything at the slave bleeder. I went to push the pedal down and the dust cap split open spraying brake fluid everywhere by the pedals.

The plunger (not sure on the term, the tie rod looking piece that connects to pedal) had pulled out from the piston sometime during my last swap. The piston had dropped down below the feed from the reservoir and filled the top with fluid. Not impressed because getting those pedals out with the hydro boost master installed is really hard.

All back in and installed. Adjusted and seems to be working good. Looks like I have the travel I need.

Started to bleed the brakes and I can't get any fluid to one of the rear calipers. I even disconnected from the ABS and tried pushing 60psi to the caliper and nothing. Is this something that can happen these calipers if they sit for 6 months?

[modular93fox]

Started to bleed the brakes and I can't get any fluid to one of the rear calipers. I even disconnected from the ABS and tried pushing 60psi to the caliper and nothing. Is this something that can happen these calipers if they sit for 6 months?

try tapping the caliper smartly with a small hammer... sometimes with age it gets clogged up and cant bleed. at the dealer, I had to do this same thing.
clint

[Fendbass22]

try tapping the caliper smartly with a small hammer... sometimes with age it gets clogged up and cant bleed. at the dealer, I had to do this same thing.
clint

I'll give it a shot.

[1992GTR]

Super!!!! I like the coyote SUPER NICE SETUP. did you buy a F150 from manuel truck or auto ? did any problem with harness to plug into the control pack
Cheers

[Fendbass22]

Well, tapping the caliper didn't work but after ripping it all apart the bleed canal was completely corroded. Drilled out and cleaned. So I finished bleeding the brakes. I don't have the hydroboost power steering hooked up and I feel no pedal resistance at all. For those with hydroboost experience... Is this normal? I'm guessing since the hydraulic section is dry there is nothing pushing against the master.

Super!!!! I like the coyote SUPER NICE SETUP. did you buy a F150 from manuel truck or auto ? did any problem with harness to plug into the control pack
Cheers

New F150s don't come with manuals anymore. Any modular bell housing bolts up to the Coyote. No issues with controls pack wiring, F150 engine harness is the same as the mustang one. They did accidentally sent me a blank PCM though.

[1992GTR]

Do you have any drawing of all your mounts or can you duplicate your mounts and sell me a kit
Thanks

[Fendbass22]

Do you have any drawing of all your mounts or can you duplicate your mounts and sell me a kit
Thanks

Not interested in selling a kit. I don't have the time (work 50+ hours a week, plus the wife and house) to manufacture and help people when they run into issues. I don't have any drawings except any flat plates that were cut on the mill. Everything else was one off parts.

Remember, you need to modify the oil pan, move the bottom of the steering column, and build your own headers. If you can do those three things making mounts is the least of your problems.

If you are really serious about it, get the motor and modify the oil pan like you see I did with mine. Set the motor in with the oil pan sitting on a 1/4" block of wood on steering cross member. Then build your mounts and headers from there. I'd have no problem telling anyone the materials I used.

[1992GTR]

Thanks for your reply,
I do not have any problem to do all the mod and parts i just want to save time in the swap
Cheers Don,

I will use a Mcleod throwout bearing . I dont want to waste my time on slave cylinder and find the right stroke

[Cerberus350]

Are those mounts 7ga plate, they look pretty good.

The valve covers look good to, it really pops, I found some stainless hardware at lowes and used a bench grinder and drill to bevel them and smooth them out. Worked pretty slick.

[unnatrl]

Well, tapping the caliper didn't work but after ripping it all apart the bleed canal was completely corroded. Drilled out and cleaned. So I finished bleeding the brakes. I don't have the hydroboost power steering hooked up and I feel no pedal resistance at all. For those with hydroboost experience... Is this normal? I'm guessing since the hydraulic section is dry there is nothing pushing against the master.

New F150s don't come with manuals anymore. Any modular bell housing bolts up to the Coyote. No issues with controls pack wiring, F150 engine harness is the same as the mustang one. They did accidentally sent me a blank PCM though.

Mine has pressure on the brake pedal regardless of power steering input. It gets easier to push with the p/s. If you don't have brake pedal pressure keep trying to bleed the brake system, there is air trapped. You may have to bench bleed the master cylinder then bleed the calipers. I had to do this on the initial install of my hydro-boost.

[Fendbass22]

Mine has pressure on the brake pedal regardless of power steering input. It gets easier to push with the p/s. If you don't have brake pedal pressure keep trying to bleed the brake system, there is air trapped. You may have to bench bleed the master cylinder then bleed the calipers. I had to do this on the initial install of my hydro-boost.

Yeah maybe thats it. I figured since the power steering section of the hydroboost is completely dry there is nothing to push on to then go to the master cylinder, even if not under pressure. I guess I will find out tomorrow since all my power steering fittings and hoses showed up yesterday. My fan too.

[1992GTR]

I hope that can help you