So I've been doing some searching, and all the answers I found were pretty convoluted. I have an aftermarket JVC deck in my E36, with stock amp (in the rear fender) and speakers.
My understanding is that the wiring is as per below:
JVC Deck -- (High level output) --> stock amp --> speakers
I would like to bypass and remove the stock amp, and connect the speakers directly to the deck using the existing stock wiring.
If I were to just splice the high level output from the deck, using the exisiting stock wiring, to the wires that come out of the amp to the speakers, I should be able to completely bypass the amp right? Is this possible or am I missing something?
CURRENT: 2005 Mazda 3 Sport GS - Black Mica | 1998 BMW 328i - Montrealblau-Metallic
GONE: 1992 Mazda Miata - Classic Red | 1986 BMW 325e - Burgundrot-Metallic
You would need 3 way crossovers for at least the front speakers. The crossover is built into the amp so there are 12 wires coming out just for the front speakers. Can't remember how the rear is wired but it may be another 8 more. I just ran my high level inputs into the amp using a metra adapter.
Durrrrr, BMW - WHY U OVERCOMPLICATE EVERYTHING!
Also, I noticed that when I have fade set to neutral, it sounds like the rear speakers are significantly louder than the fronts, evening they are all producing sound. Is this normal?
CURRENT: 2005 Mazda 3 Sport GS - Black Mica | 1998 BMW 328i - Montrealblau-Metallic
GONE: 1992 Mazda Miata - Classic Red | 1986 BMW 325e - Burgundrot-Metallic
Could be a problem with the front speakers. Not sure.
Check out my current build pics here
Didn't want to start my own thread...
I have the same issue. I inherited whatever came with the car, which was:
-A blown mid that I unplugged
-An aftermarket alpine headunit (that has a built in amp)
-A HK amp
-HK tweeters that probably work(?)
-stock rear speakers
-I replaced the front kick panel speakers with some pioneer speakers.
Currently all of the sound is coming from the back of the car. If I fade to the front then I get mostly bass from the front speakers (they are mids with tweeters built in so they should sound sort of mid range.)
The HK amp is still wired in. If I use the hi-fi switch the sound changes a little.
So, I've been searching for the easiest/cheapest way to just use the built in amp on my aftermarket headunit.
titanium silver 99 e36 m3 coupe. Konis/H&R sports and random other little things. For sale. 79k miles clean $11,750.
"It takes character to withstand the rigors of ignorance."
Here's what I did....I bypassed the factory amp, purchased some inexpensive 12db 3 way crossovers http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDIOPIPE-PA...item20cc066ca1 for the front speakers and the matching 2-way for the rear http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDIOPIPE-PA...item1e6cf08c83, then wired it up. Basically you physically remove the factory amp and mount the passive crossovers in the vacant space. I used a small piece of ABS as a boardand some double sided 3M 2-way tape to mount the crossovers. I stacked'em which made wiring much easier. Don't get me wrong, it involves 28 wires, 8 into the crossovers F+R and R+L and 20 wires (12 front +/- Woofer, Midrange, Tweeter and 8 rear +/- Midrange, Tweeter) to the corresponding crossover output. Once this is done the amp of the head unit powers all speakers correctly and the 12db crossovers are far better than the factory 6db crossvers. Another benefit is that this allows the future installation of an external 4 channel amp to be done very easily and still use factory speakers. You'd be surprised how good they sound with a small subwoofer. I'm not claiming they're equal to a set of Focal or any other high end product, but they sound pretty damn good for most listeners with a clean 40w/per channel crossed-over @ 120hz and a decent sub...for under $50 you can't beat it. The factory amp stinks and it's actually more of a booster than an AMPLIFIER. The main difference being poor S/N ratio and "amplified" Total Harmonic Distortion
Last edited by pml motorsports; 03-05-2013 at 11:53 PM.
Could you diagram that or show us where to find wiring diagrams that will lead us in the right direction.
titanium silver 99 e36 m3 coupe. Konis/H&R sports and random other little things. For sale. 79k miles clean $11,750.
It varies depending on model year. You tell me the model and year of your car and I will provide a diagram. Fair enough?
It varies depending on model year. You tell me the model and year of your car and whether or not it has the optional H/K stereo or in some cars a factory subwoofer, and I will provide a diagram. Fair enough?
Last edited by pml motorsports; 03-06-2013 at 01:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
99 e36 m3 with the hk amp.
I have stock speakers in the back, stock tweeters in the door, aftermarket 3 ways in the front footwells and the stock mids are disconnected because they are blown.
titanium silver 99 e36 m3 coupe. Konis/H&R sports and random other little things. For sale. 79k miles clean $11,750.
I didn't want to start my own thread either.
Does anyone know the correct counter plugs to plug into the amp harnesses? If we can find the right one, then no splicing of wires.
I know the one into the amplifier is a 12 pin and the one out is 26 pin. Just need the manufactures part numbers.
I just haven't seen a part number posted anywhere for these.
Thanks,
EXACTLY!!! Right on, PML.
I did the same thing and even used the same x-overs. Did it last spring. The Eagles ssound so much better now! HA! I removed my rears speakers though. Much, much better!! And adding an amp will change your whole perspective. I was using a little 280W Kenwood 4 ch. Moved up to a Pioneer GM-D 4ch (which is now 4 sale) and OMG! What a difference!! Then again, I don't have the stock speakers but it is still 3 wayed.
THIS IS A MUST DO!!
HTH. It's what I used...
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/ste...eo_pinouts.gif
Last edited by Sozo; 03-06-2013 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
"It takes character to withstand the rigors of ignorance."
Hey guys so im not sure if I have the factory amp or not but I figured if I just put the new deck in either a single din Kenwood or a double din 10in tablet and then just ran all new wires to the fronts and rears from the deck and then use the sub out puts to an amp and from there to the subs that should work no problem or I could always use the factory wiring from the deck to the speakers that'll work too. I've done it before on my e38 and it works just fine although the factory wiring is a bit complicated lol
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