Spring rates for drifting

[Nisanda]

jajajaja like how this thread went, me gusta.

[Jaze]

Bahahahahahahaha

[bmerl0ve]

awesome information im planning on purchasing bc COs with 10k front and 12k back and running no rear swaybar

[Nisanda]

just got my 12k springs for the back, testing them on feb 17 on a drift practice on tj all day 30 bucks, hope i like the 12ks no rear sway bar.

[bennyfizzle]

is that going softer or harder for you? they felt much better to me going from 10k! (also M3 bar to no bar)

[Jaze]

I think that's softer for him, which should feel nice. I just went out for a ride in a 10/12k set up and it felt great. I wasn't driving but i should be jumping in at some point today.

[Nisanda]

the first springs that i run where a set of 15.5k or something like that a buddy give to me, there where stiff like a mother f..., super quick transitions very responsive, have to be awake to predict steering and throttle there where good to start, but then when trying to follow some fast ls powered cars the grip was just not there and also not much smoke.

then to pursuit some grip i went to 8k spring and wow!, alot of grip compared to the 15k i used to run low pressure before and have to raise it for the 8k because the grip was just to much alot of smoke but the car straightened almost immediately after i let go the throttle, so was hard to maintain the car on a slide during tandem with slower cars or very closed by, the amount of grip should be fine maybe for a high powered 500+hp car but im around the 200 so not for me.

so right now its softer to stiffer.

[ienjoydrifting]

I back Sean (SLR) completely on mostly everything he has stated here.

Bars and tires play a huge roll in everything as well, So you will need to pair them correctly. I run a very large front bar and a stock rear bar with low spring rates. The anti squat and rear suspension on our cars is nearly perfect for drifting, so if you let the suspension travel, there are not really any negatives. You can transfer weight, you can go over large bumps on throttle without gaining a shit load of toe and camber... Basically our cars are the best... lol.

I think the shock is much more important then the spring rate tho... Having full control over the spring and speed of movement is key to having grip and the ability to control it...

Best starting point is getting an adjustable shock and 450lb front, 670lb rear. Then drop the rear spring down as you need more grip and add power.

400-450 is the Jam in the front.

[4CFEDFD]

I back Sean (SLR) completely on mostly everything he has stated here.

Bars and tires play a huge roll in everything as well, So you will need to pair them correctly. I run a very large front bar and a stock rear bar with low spring rates. The anti squat and rear suspension on our cars is nearly perfect for drifting, so if you let the suspension travel, there are not really any negatives. You can transfer weight, you can go over large bumps on throttle without gaining a shit load of toe and camber... Basically our cars are the best... lol.

I think the shock is much more important then the spring rate tho... Having full control over the spring and speed of movement is key to having grip and the ability to control it...

Best starting point is getting an adjustable shock and 450lb front, 670lb rear. Then drop the rear spring down as you need more grip and add power.

400-450 is the Jam in the front.

What link setup did you use for the front and do you have a pic by any chance? I have a e36 im trying to figure it out with the SLR and would like another take on it. Thinking of welding tabs on the arms and run a stiffer bar to compensate for that mounting point instead of the strut(spins too much to run the end links).

Thanks

[SLR]

What link setup did you use for the front and do you have a pic by any chance? I have a e36 im trying to figure it out with the SLR and would like another take on it. Thinking of welding tabs on the arms and run a stiffer bar to compensate for that mounting point instead of the strut(spins too much to run the end links).

Thanks

Matt, check this out, should work pretty good.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhar...FQ3nnAodlm4ABA

[4CFEDFD]

^Sweet that should work, only think would be spinning on the arm but may throw some weld on the arm to prevent that. Thanks

[MikeE36]

What's wrong with just running OEM non-M endlinks?



-Mike

[SLR]

^Sweet that should work, only think would be spinning on the arm but may throw some weld on the arm to prevent that. Thanks

It's designed to lock onto the bar when tightened, so that shouldn't be a problem; you'll just need some heim type sway links.

[4CFEDFD]

What's wrong with just running OEM non-M endlinks?

-Mike

Im running the tubed adjustble arms they dont have a mount and the m3 style links dont allow it to lock all the way so need something like what Sean posted to clamp on the arm.

[sdipompo]

you can do like mike did and grab a cheap set of non-M links from napa or auto zone or hit up rapper dan and get a set of Sikky links.

[fishtail]

Just for reference, here's a link with a spring rate conversion from kg/mm to lb/in

http://hondaswap.com/reference-mater...n-chart-30786/

[bennyfizzle]

or just google "XX lb/in to kg/mm" or "XX kg/mm to lb/in"

[gtsdwys]

I agree with a lot of what Sean and Chelsea said, sorry I didn't read absolutely everyone's post. I'm working with Odi Bakchis and FEAL suspension producing a good drift coil over. I have 8k front 9k rears. I used to have tckline s/a's with 450/500. I have stock front and rear bars and my car has tons of grip all the way around. Odi custom valved the shocks to the springs on his shock dyno. The car is 50/50 weight balance, 40lbs difference between front to rear and 3lbs side to side. I like the soft spring rates, I have smooth transitions and like I said, tons of grip. I have an NA m52 with an s52 top end.

[nassso]

What do you thing about 9kg front, 10kg rear springs with stock bars and x-brace on front? The car is natural aspirated M52b28 200whp.

[Jaze]

I agree with a lot of what Sean and Chelsea said, sorry I didn't read absolutely everyone's post. I'm working with Odi Bakchis and FEAL suspension producing a good drift coil over. I have 8k front 9k rears. I used to have tckline s/a's with 450/500. I have stock front and rear bars and my car has tons of grip all the way around. Odi custom valved the shocks to the springs on his shock dyno. The car is 50/50 weight balance, 40lbs difference between front to rear and 3lbs side to side. I like the soft spring rates, I have smooth transitions and like I said, tons of grip. I have an NA m52 with an s52 top end.

It's my opinion that at least a 100lbs difference is needed for e36. Ideally a smudge over 200lbs is ideal, as Sean and Chelsea stated. A 50 lbs difference for me and my customers felt really bad. Different strokes for different folks but that has been my experience.

[SLR]

What do you thing about 9kg front, 10kg rear springs with stock bars and x-brace on front? The car is natural aspirated M52b28 200whp.

With 9k in front I'd go at least 12k in the back.

Maybe 10k for 400whp

[SLEEPYDUB]

Sean, can you recommend a spring rate/setup for my E30?

2JZ swap with R154 trans ~500whp
16x9 +15 front and rear
Currently on BC 10k12k (What should it be due to the added weight of the 2J?)
Stock Sways
E36 Rack
R Comps on the front
Whatever I can find on the rear
Soon to have SLR Angle Kit when I gather the funds.

Basically, I need to know what spring rates I should run front and rear with this setup. Currently I am getting ZERO traction in the rear (due to narrow street tires and way too much camber, that is all being fixed to around 1-1.5*). On transitions its feels like its losing all grip, and when initiating the lack of rear grip causes me to hang the corner till I slow down enough, and then hammer back on the gas. I know Ill probably ditch the sway bars when I get the SLR kit as well, or do you recommend using a heim joint link for sways and keeping a good front bar? What about the stock rear bar? It seems useless...

[SLR]

Sean, can you recommend a spring rate/setup for my E30?

2JZ swap with R154 trans ~500whp
16x9 +15 front and rear
Currently on BC 10k12k (What should it be due to the added weight of the 2J?)
Stock Sways
E36 Rack
R Comps on the front
Whatever I can find on the rear
Soon to have SLR Angle Kit when I gather the funds.

Basically, I need to know what spring rates I should run front and rear with this setup. Currently I am getting ZERO traction in the rear (due to narrow street tires and way too much camber, that is all being fixed to around 1-1.5*). On transitions its feels like its losing all grip, and when initiating the lack of rear grip causes me to hang the corner till I slow down enough, and then hammer back on the gas. I know Ill probably ditch the sway bars when I get the SLR kit as well, or do you recommend using a heim joint link for sways and keeping a good front bar? What about the stock rear bar? It seems useless...

The spring rates seem fairly close for the car with swap, but the R-comps will give the big front grip bias. Having the extra front grip in hand is nice, but if you balance the car out more grip-wise you can get more out of it. Just get something around 200 treadwear in front, and under 300 in back.

[Rash]

I'm running somewhere near 350whp, but only very much near redline. My AA s/c kit makes max boost above 5.5k rpm.

I'd rather not rev limit bounce just to maintain a decent drift. Should I settle for a much higher rate in the rate in the rear? I'd like to less rear grip, eliminate understeer, and drift on the street with summer street tires. Car will hardly see track time. Currently running Eibach sport springs (no idea on rate) all around, and Tokico Blue front, with rear oem shocks. My current setup is horrific. Bouncy front, and the rear is completely uncontrollable once it lets loose. Don't blame me, the previous owner set it up as a "pimp car". Cool guy, but didn't have performance in mind with this car, only straight line speed, hence the s/c kit.

I'm not stranger to a stiff ride, but this is my DD. Couldn't care less if passengers find it unappealing though. I'm a litte worried that my Koni yellows will not like more than a 650lb rate rear. Should that be my starting point, and then decide on front rate based on the 650 rear?

Running stock front swaybar (325IS). My 27mm UUC front bar hits my intercooler piping and dramatically lowers the boost/piping angle, so I am thus unable to use more than the stock 325 bar. Would like to eliminate the rear bar as I've heard upgraded rear bars can cause an uncomfortable ride. Unless keeping the rear bar is a necessity, I'm fine with removing it.

My choice of shock is Koni Yellow hands down, but I'm afraid of the insert process into the M shock, so I'd rather just stay with my 325 shocks, and run a larger front bar.

[bennyfizzle]

with these motors, bouncing the limiter is the name of the game.

if you don't want to ride the limiter, swap in a chevy v8.