540i transmission rebuild at 157k.

[Justin517]

I got the car back together today, and everything runs great! I had the flywheel off to do the rear main seal and discovered that the valley pan gasket and both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Given the mileage I expected all of those things, so no big deal. Everything is now back together and running great. I'm so thrilled to have it back together. The torque converter made scary turbine whine sounds until it filled fully with fluid and the air worked it's way out. It was gone after 20 minutes of driving and idling for 10. The shifts are so smooth, and the clutches lock up super hard. I actually spun the tires testing reverse up my grandmother's steep driveway. The valve body and casing have been rebuild, and all new clutches and seals. I hope I get another 150k out of it now.

I want to thank everyone here for their help. This forum is a wealth of knowledge, and this rebuild would not be possible without the people who contribute here.

Glad you had success. While they are different beasts this makes me much less scared of my fiancés auto 330cic... Even if it only has 67k on it.

[RocketSurgeon]

I believe that is a ZF 5hp19, I might change the valve body casing just as a precaution. The transmission really isn't difficult to rebuild, don't let it scare you. It seems like nothing really wears out in these transmissions, my clutches and seals were great (aside from a weepy front main seal). You can get right at the valve body by just dropping the pan, you could avoid the entire hassle of rebuilding by replacing the casing. You could finish the entire project in 4 hours or so for the cost of ATF, a filter and pan gasket, and the $140 main casing. You really don't want to drop the transmission if you can avoid it. The part is available here btw
http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=128&parent=21

[NervoS]

^This link is for 5hp19 (which is used in 525/530), 540 uses 5hp24.
(edit: shoot me, I see, you were replying about 330ci)

Is there any way to tell that I need to replace the housing/casting? My tranny is already a reman unit, I am planning to drop the pan soon to replace filter, can I check if the housing is "not right"?

[RocketSurgeon]

Watch for a noticeable/hard downshift when slowing to a light, mine did that for a few hundred miles before it went. Nothing harsh, just a noticeable "engine brake downshift" feel. Some may give little warning. I might just do it as a precaution every 100k. It seems like the 7 series has problems much earlier in life than the 5. Randy said that the 19s are pretty bad about the valve issue though. He would know much more than I. I would definitely watch for that downshift though, since rebuilding it's gone, so I think that's an indicator of trouble. I would get on it immediately if I ever feel that again.

[Justin517]

I believe that is a ZF 5hp19, I might change the valve body casing just as a precaution. The transmission really isn't difficult to rebuild, don't let it scare you. It seems like nothing really wears out in these transmissions, my clutches and seals were great (aside from a weepy front main seal). You can get right at the valve body by just dropping the pan, you could avoid the entire hassle of rebuilding by replacing the casing. You could finish the entire project in 4 hours or so for the cost of ATF, a filter and pan gasket, and the $140 main casing. You really don't want to drop the transmission if you can avoid it. The part is available here btw
http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=128&parent=21

yeah... unfortunately the primary failure point of the 5hp19 is the reverse drum cracks at the snap-ring groove:


so transmission removal is required.

the good thing is that a stronger aftermarket drum is available for around $120
http://www.kuhleus.com/store/

all said and done it costs around $300 in parts to repair, so its not too bad.

[rf900rkw]

The harsh coasting downshift is a common complaint. And there is a good chance yours will come back. Don't be alarmed. It is caused by an interaction of the engine and transmission adaptives. You cured it by disconnecting the battery for two weeks. The pressure regulator, clutches, or fluid aren't part of the cause or cure. If you have vacuum leaks, such as manifold or CCV, the downshift clunk will come back. But since you're about to embark on the valley pan area, you will likely fix any leaks.

the good thing is that a stronger aftermarket drum is available for around $120
http://www.kuhleus.com/store/

all said and done it costs around $300 in parts to repair, so its not too bad.

The problem is wear in the pressure control system. Fix it now, and things should be good. Or you can fix it after the A drum (24) or D/G drum (19) gets blown out.

Or you can wait for failure, blame the drum, and replace only the symptom. And then piss and moan when it breaks again.

[Justin517]

The problem is wear in the pressure control system. Fix it now, and things should be good. Or you can fix it after the A drum (24) or D/G drum (19) gets blown out.

Or you can wait for failure, blame the drum, and replace only the symptom. And then piss and moan when it breaks again.

ah, I didn't realize that it was a similar issue between the 19 and 24.

so you recommend replacing the valvebody now? or just having it inspected and if necessary bored and an oversized valve installed?

[RocketSurgeon]

I'm not familiar with boring out the casing and installing a larger valve, although that is likely cheaper. I would definitely rather do the valve body repair by dropping the pan than dropping the entire transmission though.

[377Z]

Endplay is longitudinal clearance. I believe the spec is .002" - .007", but I don't have the reference here at home. If you got everything back in the proper place, the endplay should have some out just fine... I've never had to adjust it even with A-drum changing. The entire geartrain of the transmission is clamped between the back of the pump and the output flange section. That spacer shim at the rear is used to set it. There should NEVER be any preload on it. If there is, something is stacked wrong or slipped out of place. Either a bearing dropped or you didn't pick up all the clutch discs during a drum install.... easy to do.

I am having issues with endplay and wonder if you can give any pointers on what common hangups could be that prevent something from seating properly.

I had a 5HP24 with a broken A drum, I did a complete teardown/reseal, changed only the A drum, B hub, a couple bearings that came with the A/B replacements, and of course all seals. C/D/E assy looks fully seated/engaged, had no issues tapping that giant snap ring in. A/B is seated to 20MM off the case as per spec. But, when I put the pump on, it doesn't fully seat on the case/gasket, I get about 0.020" gap between the case & pump. If I pull the pump off, remove the shim, and put the pump back on, the pump body seats fully on the case. The factory shim is the 2.00MM one.

I can't figure out what is wrong. Its such a small amount that it can't be that I missed a disc, I'd love to avoid pulling all the drums out to start over (but will if I have to, unfortunately that will mean pulling the pan/filter/VB/pipes... I hate disturbing aluminum threads more than I have to)

I would appreciate any insight.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm sorry, the A/B is 22MM off the case. The spec in the repair manual is "about 20MM" so not sure what the tolerance is. I for the life of me can't get the A/B to 'seat' deeper, not sure how to tell if its properly seated.

Perhaps I should go back in and use the original bearings, they looked fine. But I figured I might as well use new parts if I have them, and can't believe they'd make that big a difference (I'm imagining bearings would have exceptionally tight tolerances).

Frustrating.

[Elixis]

Sorry to revive an old thread, I found this through a google search.

I have a 2003 540i m-sport automatic. Exactly which valve body will I need for my tranny? I need to get another one, but there are many options. I found some sellers on ebay that offer rebuilding services for them, but they need to know which one to get.

Any info in appreciated!

Thanks

[scubajim20]

I have the same car and possibly the 2 to 1 bump. If I understand, from my research, you need to drop the pan on the transmission look for the part number and what colored solenoids you have. There were different valve bodies used.