750il running/fog/instrument cluster lights

[Destabilized188]

new oddity I have gotten my 750 back on the road and running good but,

the driver's side fog and running lights went out, the instrument cluster lights stopped working too

i have no blown fuses in the engine or rear seat fuse boxes

I've read that a relay can go bad and cause no lights but im stumped for right now

[shogun]

Check first with a multimeter if you get power at the bulbs. Pull the fuses and test them with a multimeter, they might look good, but... , also spray the fuse sockets with a contact cleaner and enhancer.
The LKM has internal contacts, check if they get contact, my instructions here http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...l/LKM_open.jpg that is a EURO LKM, yours has only 3 relays.
Then, as your 750 is 8/89 built, it probably has this large round plug behind the bumper driver side, that is for foglights and outside temperature feeler, check for oxidation https://www.shiftbmw.com/model/e32/obc-temp-at-30/

Instrument cluster fuse 1, also fuses 12, 15, 17, 20, 29, 33 , (hit the dashboard above the cluster slightly with your hand to see if lights go on, sometimes it works when there is bad contact)
fuses 2, 3 Headlights and fog lights (also fuses 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14)
https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-bo...bmw-7-e32.html

The only solution is to keep the fuse contacts clean, use contact cleaner/ enhancer. BMW has a tech info: BMW Sensors Problems and Faults - Stabilant 22A Electrical Contact Enhancer - Model: All BMW

Complaint: Connectors which carry low current are more likely to form deposits which affect the resistance of the circuit through the plug connector. Depending upon the particular circuit these deposits can cause malfunctions and consequently activate warning lamps and check control indicators.
Remedy: Part replacement can temporarily stop the problem. If the connector is the problem then without disconnecting the connector measure the resistance of the circuit running through the connector to make sure the connector has a high resistance. A good resistor will have close to 0 ohms resistance. Visually examine the male and female terminals in the connector housing by removing them. Look at the integrity of the wire crimps, and in some male terminals the integrity of the weld of the male pin to the terminal. Then reinstall. With a zero residue electrical contact cleaner liberally spray the male and female connectors, and allow the air to dry. Apply Stabilant 22A to both male and female terminals so they are saturated, and reconnect the connectors while they are still wet. When the Stabilant 22A dries it will leave a thin coating of polymer film which is conductive between mating surfaces, and is non-conductive between adjacent pins. It can also prevent the formation of more harmful deposits.

A good contact cleaner/enhancer will do, I cannot find Stabilant 22A locally here and use for many years instead of that some local available spray which does the same. It helps to improve electrical conductivity. Electrical enhancers are designed to guarantee a good contact between the pins/sockets. Using a good non-oily electrical contact cleaner is the best way to start. It gets rid of the oxidation and dirt that accumulate, leaves no oily film, and and thus provides a clean surface for the application of the enhancer.

[Destabilized188]

i have no blown fuses but I'll replace them with new ones as they are still the original bmw fuses

I'll pull apart my lkm tonight and play with that

i tried all 3 clusters I have and no instrument lights on any of them and occasionally the interior lights are intermittent

i just find it odd that the driver's fog+running lights went out at the same time as the instrument cluster lights

I did some reading last night and saw people mention the mustard relay causing interior light issues so I will test that too

[shogun]

may be be something with circuit for fuse 1, because that is the only one which is for fog lights, headlights, instrument cluster and interior lights, Circuits protected with fuse 1 7.5A
ABS (also fuses 17, 29)
Stability control (ASC)
Instruments (also fuses 12, 15, 17, 20, 29, 33)
Brake lights
Cruise control (also fuses 15, 17)
Bulb check control unit (also fuses 2 – 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14)
Reversing light(s) (also fuse 12)
Brake pad wear indicator (also fuses 15, 20)
Engine management (also fuses 17, 20, 23)
Headlights and fog lights (also fuses 3 – 5, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 14)
Parking lights
Tail lights
Engine compartment light(s) (also fuses 4, 5, 20)

check the wiring diagrams what wire goes there, from there https://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/

[Destabilized188]

whelp I solved half my problem

im just an idiot and didn't plug back in the interior light dimmer switch when I took my dash apart

that still leaves the fog and tail lights but I believe that is all a lkm issue

I was told by a friend driving behind me today my brake lights flicker instead of staying on when the brake is pressed so I will investigate the brake light relay too

[shogun]

brake light problem could be the brake light switch, try this https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=brake+light
But first clean the bulb holders contact areas of the taillights and re-bend the contacts of bulb holders

[Destabilized188]

bringing back this thread now that I have done a lot of work to the car

interior and instrument lights work perfectly now after some diag

no drivers fog or running light in the tail light or side marker or front running light


fog lights don't turn off with the switch
turn on with the headlight switch

i have pulled the light control module and Everything clicks and works properly inside

so

why no running lights on the driver's side?

and not really an issue but why the fog lights always on?

issue persisted after new turn and tail light housing and bulbs
new fog bulbs and new headlight bulbs installed

- - - Updated - - -

brake lights were getting power but the trunk used to leak water and the contact tabs rotted away causing lights to not work and flickering

[shogun]

Do you have a spare LKM to test that. It could be that the fog lights are always on because the fog light relay contacts inside the LKM are stuck. Just to eliminate this possibility.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t-switch-Fixed
something wrong with light switch? Burnt? Check it, here pics: Light switch dis-assembly. http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/169009/

[Destabilized188]

ok my switches are good internally

i didn't get a chance to check lkm but I will try and pick one up

I read the wiring diagram for the running lights and am still stumped on the no drivers running lights as they should both receive power
as a semi temporary fix could I make a jumper wire from the passenger light to get them to turn on again?

as I mentioned in a different thread I abused my memory seat module into working again but don't see it working for long

would shogun or e32 fan happen to know if I made a custom harness this bt adapter would work
https://maakbaas.com/shop/bmw-bluetooth-adapter/

[E32FAN]

ok my switches are good internally

i didn't get a chance to check lkm but I will try and pick one up

I read the wiring diagram for the running lights and am still stumped on the no drivers running lights as they should both receive power
as a semi temporary fix could I make a jumper wire from the passenger light to get them to turn on again?

as I mentioned in a different thread I abused my memory seat module into working again but don't see it working for long

would shogun or e32 fan happen to know if I made a custom harness this bt adapter would work
https://maakbaas.com/shop/bmw-bluetooth-adapter/

Fog lights shown on page 6313-03. Left fog light is on X12 pin 16. Jumper a wire from there to 12V and the fog light should light. If not, you know what to do next. If yes, then it's an LKM or F7 issue.

By running lights do you mean side marker lights E21, rear side marker lights H71, or park lights E16? Marker lights on page 6314-00 do not use LKM. Park lights on page 6314-01 use K7 Parking Light Monitor Relay and LKM. Is there 12V at LKM X12 pin 26? At Pin 9?

The custom BT adaptor from Holland is intriguing. I suppose they worked long and hard on it. It probably works. Or return it.