The HasenGoeringpfeffer hobo turbo pocket pen med/thread for PHASE III 俳句

[1SLWM3]

KORRECKT.
What is the "FINAL" result?

Let's takes a looks ats it, shalls we's?



Is it when the sound of your car scares a large dog on the side of the road into "filling it's pants"?
Is it when your whp reaches 600 on a "virtual" vJynodet?
Is it after....

I guess by final I mean running and on the dyno. I agree that the "end" is just an imaginary word used to ease those overwhelmed by the current.

Didn't know dogs wear pants

[MikeE36]

Got this killer idea straight from MikeE36 (Mike Von lastname) out of his slider build thread. M16x1.5 to -6AN for turbo coolant feed from the BLOCK drain, as seen above.)

The block drain is actually M14x1.5 to looks like -6 AN pictured. I used -4 AN water lines. -6 is big!

The other side, the coolant ports are M12x1.5 and M14x1.5. Depending on OBD1 or OBD2 head / coolant temp sensor will determine what you do for the feed. (OBD1 uses 1 for DME, 1 for gauge. I used the port for the gauge since I have an aftermarket dash and don't need it)

Thanks for the credit! Looks good.

-Mike

[milKt]

The block drain is actually M14x1.5 to looks like -6 AN pictured. I used -4 AN water lines. -6 is big!

Thanks for the correction.
I edited as such.

Do you remember which OD Rad hose coolant temp sender you used?
It's either 36mm or 38mm for the OEM rad hose. Who knows "off hand" or has this info memorized?

I'm switching from the smaller 3/8" heater hose type beneath the manny to the rad adapter type...and do MOST users throw it on the COOLER feed side of the cooling system (coming into the head/eng) or on the outgoing hose?

[chikinhed]

You will want to measure the water temp coming out of the head or better yet the temp in the head like the factory sensor.

Depending what size your temp sensor threads are and if you have an extra spot in your head you may be able to put the sensor right in the head. My temp sensor is 3/8 NPT which will thread into the metric straight threads in the head. I used an aluminum crush gasket under the head of the fitting and torqued it up tight and have had no issues with leakage since the engine went in. (I do understand that the thread pitch if slightly off and i understand how pipe thread works etc.) I don't have a picture but could take one if you want one.

Sent from my GTX3582R

[milKt]

My head does NOT have another open port.
I wish I had had DON (dcvee) tap my head at that EXTRA spot for this purpose alone.

I do know I'd prefer to read the coolant at it's "hotter" temps to gauge the danger better. I suppose I'll be slipping the rad hose adapter on the high/driver's side. Sound correct?

Didn't know dogs wear pants

Oh yeah. We pronounce them, "pamps".

[jajou318]

Sounds right to me.

Excited to see this finished!

[chikinhed]

If your intake is still off then it wouldn't be hard to drill and tap a hole in the head. That's easy peasy stuff.

I think the top hose is the return from the rad.

Sent from my GTX3582R

[wazzu70]

The lower hose is the feed (cool) to the pump.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

Thanks for the correction.
I edited as such.

Do you remember which OD Rad hose coolant temp sender you used?
It's either 36mm or 38mm for the OEM rad hose. Who knows "off hand" or has this info memorized?

I'm switching from the smaller -8AN type beaneath the manny to the rad adapter type...and do MOST users throw it on the COOLER feed side of the cooling system (coming into the head/eng) or on the outgoing hose?

I like that black piece. Where did you find that?

[milKt]

send sound and video as soon as she is up and running!

-William

Oh yeah,
I am excited about the outer space, rocket sounds,
the faster spool,
precise control,
handsome looks,
friendly positioning,
etc

This ^ and don't forget to put the hip hop in the hippity hip hip hop and don't stop to you bang bang boogie to the rhythm of the boogiety beat.

If your intake is still off then it wouldn't be hard to drill and tap a hole in the head. That's easy peasy stuff.

I think the top hose is the return from the rad.

Sent from my GTX3582R

Intake is ON.

The lower hose is the feed (cool) to the pump.

The heated, less dense, water rises,
pushing the cooler water down.

Sounds right to me.

Excited to see this finished!

AS am I excited to see your MINTY MOTHER running a turbo "KIT".
You've got my favorite M Coupe around.

I like that black piece. Where did you find that?

[FISEVEN]

The OD of the water temp sender radiator hose adapter depends on the upper radiator hose. Some upper radiator hoses have the same OD straight threw which youd use a 38mm radiator hose adapter and some hoses are smaller in the mid section so you'll need a 36mm adapter.

Id also suggest having it place on the upper radiator hose/hot, the water temp sensor itself place at the bottom/facing up of the hose. That way the sensor will be submerged in the coolant.

If you decide to place the sensor in the head TRM makes an adapter to add a 1/8” NPT sensor just for this purpose. It goes to the right of the two factory temp sensors.

[futureroadracer]

Id also suggest having it place on the upper radiator hose/hot, the water temp sensor itself place at the bottom/facing up of the hose. That way the sensor will be submerged in the coolant.

What?

I have my sensor in the upper hose, if the system is bled and filled properly, the sensor will always be submerged.

[FISEVEN]

What?

I have my sensor in the upper hose, if the system is bled and filled properly, the sensor will always be submerged.

The senor is there to monitor water temp and most importantly needed if your cooling system fails, right? Ok so in that case if your system does have air (or another issue) wouldn't it be best (well second best other than attached to the head) to have the sensor at the bottom of the upper hose facing up submerged in what coolant is there (to get a better reading)? Id think so.

[futureroadracer]

The senor is there to monitor water temp and most importantly needed if your cooling system fails, right? Ok so in that case if your system does have air wouldn't it be best (well second best other than attached to the head) to have the sensor at the bottom of the upper hose facing up submerged in what coolant is there (to get a better reading)? Id think so.

FISEVEN-Good luck with your car.


OP- I've run a temp sensor for a while. Mine's in a steel pipe that I use in place of the upper house. My upper radiator hose is always full of water too. That said, you'll likely have a challenge trying to fit the sensor from the bottom as the accessory belt will likely interfere. I know with my set up, there's little to no room. I do run a mechanical sensor though.

[FISEVEN]

FISEVEN-Good luck with your car.


OP- I've run a temp sensor for a while. Mine's in a steel pipe that I use in place of the upper house. My upper radiator hose is always full of water. You'll likely have a challenge trying to fit the sensor from the bottom as the accessory belt will likely interfere.

If you place the adapter in the middle upper hose you wont be over the idler pulley. Even over the pulling you'll be clear of the belt (the belt runs under) but id place in the middle just before the bend to the radiator would be best.

[milKt]

lol
Not too worried about my temp sensor swimming guys...though crow IS delicious when served right
and to a prepared, willing party.

I'll be doing a full system VACUUM bleed w/ the infamous,
the insidious.... UVIEW Airlift II

Some hippy turned me onto one of them.

[futureroadracer]

You just gotta "eat a little crow" and turn the adapter a little to the bottom. You'll be ok.

If you place the adapter in the middle upper hose you wont be over the idler pulley. Even over the pulling you'll be clear of the belt (the belt runs under) but id place in the middle just before the bend to the radiator would be best.

Can you please post a pic of your upper radiator hose?

[FISEVEN]

lol
Not too worried about my temp sensor swimming guys...though crow IS delicious when served right
and to a prepared, willing party.

I'll be doing a full system VACUUM bleed w/ the infamous,
the insidious.... UVIEW Airlift II

Some hippy turned me onto one of them.

Nice. I was gonna delete my heater core and gut my dash. Was wondering what might be a good why to fully bleed my system.

Sorry for the skid marks on your thread. Let clean that up as taste my own bird in the name of the thread. Ive done research in your older thread (good stuff) and its great to see you don't stay stagnant.

[milKt]

The OD of the water temp sender radiator hose adapter depends on the upper radiator hose. Some upper radiator hoses have the same OD straight threw which youd use a 38mm radiator hose adapter and some hoses are smaller in the mid section so you'll need a 36mm adapter.

I have the OEM upper hose with the narrower mid-section BTW. Thanks for the heads up on the 36mm size.

Just ordered.
$18 delivered (in black, the new pink.)







BTW,
what about DRILLING holes in the thermostat to minimize damage from the possibility of a stuck thermostat.
Has anyone ever actually run into a stuck Tstat situation?

I've seen pictures of ONE shop on the forum here do this ...seemingly, religiously.

[futureroadracer]

I have the OEM upper hose with the narrower mid-section BTW. Thanks for the heads up on the 36mm size.

Just ordered.
$18 delivered (in black, the new pink.)







BTW,
what about DRILLING holes in the thermostat to minimize damage from the possibility of a stuck thermostat.
Has anyone ever actually run into a stuck Tstat situation?

I've seen pictures of ONE shop on the forum here do this ...seemingly, religiously.

What gauge and sensor are you going to run?

[milKt]

What gauge and sensor are you going to run?

I'm running the cheap PROSPORT gauge/sensor kits.
They work fairly well.

[futureroadracer]

Gotcha. They are priced right.

[Butters Stoch]

Late in the game, but I has one of these.
Works mint.

[Tanks95]

^^^What is it? What does it do?

[milKt]

A cooling system bleeder.

http://www.amazon.com/UView-550500-A.../dp/B000O3IGI6