Yoshi E30 LS2 Build thread

[protomor]

Got my hydro in and bled. Since my calipers are on the bottom but factory style, I temporarily moved them to the stock location and bled them. Everything went fine. But once I hooked everything back up, yanking the handle just gave me a lot of resistance. Hence the picture above. The line, I think, is kinked at where the shock mounts to the trailing arm. I'm wondering if I can just grind that bit away. I'm concerned with compromising the metal. Might be worth a try.

Before that, I might take it off the calipers and see if they compress as is. Maybe the calipers I rebuilt myself were bunk.

[Gmfwd]

What is the bore of your master cylinder and how long is the handle? I had a setup like yours. 5/8 master with about a 18" handle and it was not impressive. It was very hard to lock the ebrake in a straight line.

That line isn't great but I don't think its pinched. You may want to upgrade to a better caliper.

[protomor]

I don't know the master size... I should find out. 16 or 18" handle. It would make sense if I just couldn't get it to lock but the handle is rock hard and won't even stop the car from rolling down a hill.

[protomor]

I unkinked the line and it works now. Sadly the factory caliper only slows the car. Won't lock the wheels.

[DavidD123]

I unkinked the line and it works now. Sadly the factory caliper only slows the car. Won't lock the wheels.

If people can lock them up with an inline setup I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do it with dual calipers.

[protomor]

Yea.... I thought about that as I was jerk.. falling asleep last night. I wonder... What the dealy?

[Rustyfriend]

I was thinking of this as well and my thinking is that with an inline you have the brake master cylinder to assist you and with a second caliper you have the handle only. Perhaps think of it like the brakes on a 1950's car with manual brakes vs a modern car with vacuum assist.

[Gmfwd]

Should be the same inline or secondary caliper as long as your not foot braking then pulling the lever.

What pads do you have? I was using cheap ass ones because I heard that they have good initial bite. Never would lock in a straight line though. Very hard to initiate without a huge flick.

Get some wilwoods on that bitch.

[protomor]

I got some random pads. Nothing special. I'd get wilwood calipers on there if I could tell for sure that it was my issue. Plus, I already welded on the factory calipers. I'd like to not have to cut those off and weld on some new tabs you know? Unless wilwood sells bolt ons. But I very much doubt that.

[DavidD123]

Yea.... I thought about that as I was jerk.. falling asleep last night. I wonder... What the dealy?

I lol'd

[protomor]

:-D

I think I might redo all the hard lines and get some fresh soft lines. Maybe I kinked something or messed up a flare. Kinda doubt it but I dunno.

[Gmfwd]

Or just pull harder haha. I was worried mine was going to tear off the trans tunnel, and I strained a tendon in my elbow during a 2 day event last season. Could do a longer lever and scuff up the rotors that might get you by

[protomor]

Yea maybe the pads need to bed? Drive around with the handle on a bit? lol. Doubt I'll rip up my pretty welds. Just doesn't seem like I should need to strain a tendon.

[DavidD123]

You could try and replace the caliper bushings with brass ones. I'd imagine that'd help the handle feel a lot.

[Gmfwd]

^^ Thats a good idea.

Drive around and get everything hot and see what happens. Maybe those pads need some heat in them to bite.

[protomor]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENqWoIfIwXs

[bennyfizzle]

no tach is mad basic

[protomor]

If you pay REAL close attention, the tach does work. It's just 1/10 of what it should be. Redline is like 700rpms on the tach lol.

[bennyfizzle]

Lol

[protomor]

I'm gonna make a full effort into updating build threads since I get asked so much. I'm lazy and I really should take more pix.

Anywho. To solve my brake heat issue, I'm going to header wrap both headers and make a heat shield to separate the two areas. I figure I can do both of these feats at the same time. Parts ordered, pictures forthcoming.

On the other end, I got my wilwood calipers in a while ago. I need to figure out how to adapt the factory lines to fit onto the calipers. Any help with that is nice . I did find some research that said just swapping to a 5/8 master would have solved my issues but oh well. Let's go full bore now.

To give you an idea (I get emailed this a lot), this is what the factory ears rewelded onto the trailing arm looks like:



Here's the huge difference between the factory mounting ears and the wilwood calipers:



Now this last one takes some explaining. This is why you can't just make an adapter. The ears on the trailing arm has the threads for the caliper. I might be able to bolt the calipers from the other side if I shaved down the ears enough to get the angle of the caliper right. But then I'd have to remove the rotor any time I want to take off the caliper. Especially for bleeding (since the caliper is at the bottom of the TA), this isn't a good idea. Not to mention less material and structure. You might be able to make a bolt on plate that shifts the caliper over some. But that's really over kill. I'm just going to cut the factory ears off and have a good welder weld on something custom.

[protomor]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNvOjqOcAL4

Figure I might start a video build thread. Anyone who's good with video, suggestions are very welcome.

[JesterMX6]

where'd you get the hand brake from? i checked their site but can't seem to find it? I was gonna grab an ASD but wanted to take a look at theirs.

[protomor]

I'm one of the test guys. I think the kit is 99% done. They are polishing the handle. The finished handle has poly grips on it and it's SOOO good. I'm waiting for mine to come in the mail. Email sales@sikky.com and tell them Yoshi sent you. Might be able to get the first production set.

[JesterMX6]

will do thanks. any idea what kinda pricing we'll be looking at? and do they use willwood cylinders like ASD?

[protomor]

Your pick of wilwood cylinders just like ASD. Pricing is a little bit higher but that's about all I know. That poly grip makes it very worth it and it has a bunch of extra little bells and whistles that made it simpler to install and gave me more options than the ASD one.