Got my hydro in and bled. Since my calipers are on the bottom but factory style, I temporarily moved them to the stock location and bled them. Everything went fine. But once I hooked everything back up, yanking the handle just gave me a lot of resistance. Hence the picture above. The line, I think, is kinked at where the shock mounts to the trailing arm. I'm wondering if I can just grind that bit away. I'm concerned with compromising the metal. Might be worth a try.
Before that, I might take it off the calipers and see if they compress as is. Maybe the calipers I rebuilt myself were bunk.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
What is the bore of your master cylinder and how long is the handle? I had a setup like yours. 5/8 master with about a 18" handle and it was not impressive. It was very hard to lock the ebrake in a straight line.
That line isn't great but I don't think its pinched. You may want to upgrade to a better caliper.
I don't know the master size... I should find out. 16 or 18" handle. It would make sense if I just couldn't get it to lock but the handle is rock hard and won't even stop the car from rolling down a hill.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I unkinked the line and it works now. Sadly the factory caliper only slows the car. Won't lock the wheels.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Yea.... I thought about that as I was jerk.. falling asleep last night. I wonder... What the dealy?
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I was thinking of this as well and my thinking is that with an inline you have the brake master cylinder to assist you and with a second caliper you have the handle only. Perhaps think of it like the brakes on a 1950's car with manual brakes vs a modern car with vacuum assist.
Should be the same inline or secondary caliper as long as your not foot braking then pulling the lever.
What pads do you have? I was using cheap ass ones because I heard that they have good initial bite. Never would lock in a straight line though. Very hard to initiate without a huge flick.
Get some wilwoods on that bitch.
I got some random pads. Nothing special. I'd get wilwood calipers on there if I could tell for sure that it was my issue. Plus, I already welded on the factory calipers. I'd like to not have to cut those off and weld on some new tabs you know? Unless wilwood sells bolt ons. But I very much doubt that.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
:-D
I think I might redo all the hard lines and get some fresh soft lines. Maybe I kinked something or messed up a flare. Kinda doubt it but I dunno.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Or just pull harder haha. I was worried mine was going to tear off the trans tunnel, and I strained a tendon in my elbow during a 2 day event last season. Could do a longer lever and scuff up the rotors that might get you by
Yea maybe the pads need to bed? Drive around with the handle on a bit? lol. Doubt I'll rip up my pretty welds. Just doesn't seem like I should need to strain a tendon.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
You could try and replace the caliper bushings with brass ones. I'd imagine that'd help the handle feel a lot.
^^ Thats a good idea.
Drive around and get everything hot and see what happens. Maybe those pads need some heat in them to bite.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
no tach is mad basic
If you pay REAL close attention, the tach does work. It's just 1/10 of what it should be. Redline is like 700rpms on the tach lol.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Lol
I'm gonna make a full effort into updating build threads since I get asked so much. I'm lazy and I really should take more pix.
Anywho. To solve my brake heat issue, I'm going to header wrap both headers and make a heat shield to separate the two areas. I figure I can do both of these feats at the same time. Parts ordered, pictures forthcoming.
On the other end, I got my wilwood calipers in a while ago. I need to figure out how to adapt the factory lines to fit onto the calipers. Any help with that is nice . I did find some research that said just swapping to a 5/8 master would have solved my issues but oh well. Let's go full bore now.
To give you an idea (I get emailed this a lot), this is what the factory ears rewelded onto the trailing arm looks like:
Here's the huge difference between the factory mounting ears and the wilwood calipers:
Now this last one takes some explaining. This is why you can't just make an adapter. The ears on the trailing arm has the threads for the caliper. I might be able to bolt the calipers from the other side if I shaved down the ears enough to get the angle of the caliper right. But then I'd have to remove the rotor any time I want to take off the caliper. Especially for bleeding (since the caliper is at the bottom of the TA), this isn't a good idea. Not to mention less material and structure. You might be able to make a bolt on plate that shifts the caliper over some. But that's really over kill. I'm just going to cut the factory ears off and have a good welder weld on something custom.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNvOjqOcAL4
Figure I might start a video build thread. Anyone who's good with video, suggestions are very welcome.
Last edited by protomor; 08-10-2015 at 08:07 PM.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
where'd you get the hand brake from? i checked their site but can't seem to find it? I was gonna grab an ASD but wanted to take a look at theirs.
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
I'm one of the test guys. I think the kit is 99% done. They are polishing the handle. The finished handle has poly grips on it and it's SOOO good. I'm waiting for mine to come in the mail. Email sales@sikky.com and tell them Yoshi sent you. Might be able to get the first production set.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
will do thanks. any idea what kinda pricing we'll be looking at? and do they use willwood cylinders like ASD?
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
Your pick of wilwood cylinders just like ASD. Pricing is a little bit higher but that's about all I know. That poly grip makes it very worth it and it has a bunch of extra little bells and whistles that made it simpler to install and gave me more options than the ASD one.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
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